Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[pandaboo911]

Ah I mixed them up. Mine is like the stamped bracket on the right. So I guess it is e30. My mistake. Its still installed backwards though, so the driveshaft is at an awkward angle in the middle


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[Sh3rpak!ng]

Ah I mixed them up. Mine is like the stamped bracket on the right. So I guess it is e30. My mistake. Its still installed backwards though, so the driveshaft is at an awkward angle in the middle


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Sounds like that's your issue. You're running a zf320 now? if so, you need to install the csb in the normal direction to straighten it back out.

24v + g260 and e30 DS = e30 csb backwards
24v + zf320 and e36 DS = e30 csb normal

[TimKninja]

Picked up my early model sheet metal shifter bracket if you don't mind me copying your genius idea .

Do you think it will be a problem running rubber mounts with this shifter solid in place ? Kinda don't wanna switch to Poly yet .

[Northern]

16x9 et20 should be fine for 225/45 in front with a ~5mm spacer and 245/45 in the rear with a good roll/pull. Pretty much what I'm running now, except mine are et15 and I made a bad decision and bought 8" wide for the front. Et20 definitely sounds better for the rear than et15 though.

I'm running an obd1 TB and I've noticed the e34 cable is crazy long, so maybe I'll pick up an e36 cable as well.

When running any driveshaft in the e30, you run the e30 Csb in its normal orientation and preload ~5mm to the front. The csb mounts in the trans tunnel are offset, so the Csb is offset equal and opposite to counter it. I followed the typical r3v advice and installed it backwards the first time.

Once it was all in, I stepped back to look at it and there was a noticeable kink in the middle at the Csb.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Picked up my early model sheet metal shifter bracket if you don't mind me copying your genius idea .

Do you think it will be a problem running rubber mounts with this shifter solid in place ? Kinda don't wanna switch to Poly yet .

Not at all, I love sharing these ideas. That's what the forum and the community is all about. Just give me a shout out :D

As far as rubber mounts, I don't know. I never drove my car with the solid mounted shifter and rubber bushings. I went with poly engine/trans mounts at the same time I did the shifter. Personally I wouldn't do it. But I guess it comes down to your usage of the car? If you are just tooling around town, I would think it probably wouldn't be a big deal. If you're canyon carving/autox/tracking, you'd probably want poly. I'd say do it and drive it and see if it's a problem. Don't blame me if you miss shift :D

16x9 et20 should be fine for 225/45 in front with a ~5mm spacer and 245/45 in the rear with a good roll/pull. Pretty much what I'm running now, except mine are et15 and I made a bad decision and bought 8" wide for the front. Et20 definitely sounds better for the rear than et15 though.

I'm running an obd1 TB and I've noticed the e34 cable is crazy long, so maybe I'll pick up an e36 cable as well.

When running any driveshaft in the e30, you run the e30 Csb in its normal orientation and preload ~5mm to the front. The csb mounts in the trans tunnel are offset, so the Csb is offset equal and opposite to counter it. I followed the typical r3v advice and installed it backwards the first time.

Once it was all in, I stepped back to look at it and there was a noticeable kink in the middle at the Csb.

I kinda want to go to 16x9 so I can fill out fender flares and put down the current power which will only increase over the next year(s). And potentially clear a bbk (right now there's like 1mm clearance on my front brakes). Also I want to go fender flares because I like the look :D and it has been part of my vision from the start :D

I'll update eventually with a comment on e36 cable fit when i get around to installing it - maybe at the same time I swap my brake booster (I think I hear it leaking)

Yea, I too followed r3v advice and clearly saw it crooked. I mean, the logic follows that the CSB needs to be installed backwards with the g260 and 24v swap (being that the trans is tilted/offset). But with zf320 and 24v swap where the trans is centered again, it would be normal csb orientation.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I made some sketches for some parts a work connection will machine for me :D He told me he likes the change of pace from doing all the industry stuff and it takes him back to his days of drag racing

Also gave him 4 vw corrado front disks to have the hubs enlarged :D :D I had no idea how cheap the brembo blanks are... ~$33/disk


I have a UUC DSSR from my e36, a brand new e36 selector rod, a brand new selector rod knuckle, a brand new bitch clip, a brand new z3m lever, and an old e36 lever that I totally disassembled to take measurements from and see where and why the weak points are that contribute to a little extra wiggle here and there. These drawings are what I came up with. I am having him machine the ends/forks for the selector rod separate from the shaft so i can play with final length and "twist" between the forks while it's on the car and then weld it together. Yes, this has all been done before by several companies, but doing this stuff on my own is why I enjoy doing what I'm doing (not to mention it's costing me nothing). I'm sure I'll still learn plenty even if it doesn't work.

I went a little wider on the width of the forks since I noticed the pins getting a little worn on the UUC piece where it sits on the forks due to the side to side forces when selecting R-1/2-3/4-5. The wider fork should distribute the load over a slightly larger area and not wear it out. I also decided on 10mm holes since a pin to fit that will also snugly fit a 10mm ID bronze bushing/10mm ID bearing/OEM components so I can try several different combos of parts if I want to.





Here's the pin. It'll be hardened steel, and possibly work in conjunction with hardened sleeves in the fork itself. OD of 9.94mm was decided on for a tight and snug fit through the possible bushings/bearings etc.





Here are two tools to be used for pressing bushings in/out of the selector rod knuckle and/or the shift lever joint.





Here are the different shaft sizes I'll try. The 147mm shaft will make it an oem length e36 selector rod when measured end to end on center hole to hole (197mm). The other two are for experimenting to see if it'll locate the shift knob a bit further back which will be more to my liking. I'm thinking it would be better to shorten/lengthen the selector rod, rather than bending the shift lever to adjust front to back shifter location.





This part is not shifter related, but another transmission tool. It was sketched/pictured in another thread describing how to replace the "third" detent next to the 5th and reverse detents on the side of the zf320 trans. I decided to do a fresh sketch of those drawings for the machine shop to be up to par with my others :D

[Khudee]

Nice build dude..

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Nice build dude..

Thanks man

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[shieldsyo]

In for inspiration...

[Sh3rpak!ng]

In for inspiration...

thanks man!

[2mAn]

you need to update your signature with one that has the rear spoiler in it... now that I mention that, I need to update mine with one that doesnt have dents in the fender

[Sh3rpak!ng]

you need to update your signature with one that has the rear spoiler in it... now that I mention that, I need to update mine with one that doesnt have dents in the fender

yea, you're right... I need to snap some new pictures! (but I probably won't anytime soon because e36)

haha your sig makes those dents look HUGE. get on it!

[328ijunkie]

Ready for a tune? ;)

[2mAn]

Yes, get a tune and then sign up for the Big Willow event on Jan 16. Im there.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Ready for a tune? ;)

Tune or front bbk or wheels/tires

That is the question.


Though, I'm leaning towards a tune first.

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