Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 rebuild + goodies swap - DD / autox Journey

229whp on a dynopack. I'm happy.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[arch4ngel]

Great build thread.

Good catch on the radiator cap.
I figured that one out chasing parts on realoem but I wonder how many folks are out there running their original e30 cap.

Any particular reason you decided to keep the stock rpm limit?

[pandaboo911]

Damn that makes me worried about my koyorad.

[MatRacer]

Good catch on the radiator cap.
I figured that one out chasing parts on realoem but I wonder how many folks are out there running their original e30 cap.

Did I missed something?

[rzerob]

Did I missed something?

It was in post #98

Brand new meyle expansion tank cap broken. Might have been my fault. I realized I bought a cap for the m20 system which operates at a lower pressure (1.4 bar) than the s52 (2.0 bar). I was also constantly slow leaking coolant out the overflow tube with the 1.4 bar cap so this mistake now makes sense. Replaced with a behr 2.0 bar cap and all is good.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Great build thread.

Good catch on the radiator cap.
I figured that one out chasing parts on realoem but I wonder how many folks are out there running their original e30 cap.

Any particular reason you decided to keep the stock rpm limit?

Thanks! Yea, it's one of those things I have never heard about. Probably not a big deal at all, I bet that meyle cap broke because it was just a bad part.

And I didn't keep the stock rpm limit, forgot to mention that. I think it's increased to 7100, not 100% sure. Guess I'll have to bring it up to the rev limiter and see where it stops (not that I haven't done that many many times already, I'm just usually looking at the road)

Damn that makes me worried about my koyorad.

I wouldn't get worried yet. I haven't seen or heard of anyone else with this issue. I installed the replacement. If that one leaks you'll see it here, and I'll probably make a thread somewhere about it.

[MatRacer]

Thanks rzerob

Will look at that closer...!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 rebuild + goodies swap - DD / autox Journey

Here's the mess the leaking radiator was making... I don't like mess.





Here is the old/original power steering pump. It was leaking very badly at the pulley shaft and then slinging/spraying fluid everywhere which then picks up all dust/dirt from the road which quickly makes a big mess everywhere and pisses me off very very much. :hitler:





All cleaned up. Sidenote: ATF is my least favorite fluid in the world
Edit: ATF and gear oil are tied for least favorite fluids in the world





New power steering pump - luk brand. Hmmmm that doesn't quite look the same as the old one..... hmmmmmm





I was correct. It's not the same. But I made some small modifications and got it to fit. Thank goodness I have these air tools. That low profile air drill has saved me several times... I drilled out one of the original mounting holes so I can slide a bolt all the way through which threads into the different style PS pump bracket.





The closer of the two mounting holes got drilled.





New Koyorad radiator replaced under warranty by FRSport no hassles.





Added some adhesive insulation on the sides to seal incoming air FWIW





Oh yea, my spal fan shattered for no good reason. Dented up the brand new condenser. I was pissed. Stuck the original aux fan back on temporarily until I get a replacement under warranty.





So, I have had several problems over the past week.

1) PS pump fiasco
I ordered a rebuild kit for ZF pump, pulled my pump, see it's Luk, so rebuild kit is useless. Then I order a new pump for a 328 (because it was in stock and much cheaper than a ZF) not realizing the brackets are different - NBD I modify and make it fit and think I'm smart. Nope I'm not smart, the fittings are totally different. I can't attach the hoses. So I reinstall the old pump and swear very loudly and throw things.

Solution:
I ordered a used ZF pump for the s52 (correct bracket and fittings) and I will use the rebuild kit to reseal it.

2) AC/CCV fitment issues
After installing condenser I see that there will be serious fitment issues with my current CCV/catch can setup (which I don't like anyway) between the AC hoses and ccv hoses

Solution:
I will switch to an exhaust ccv setup which solves the fitment issues and takes blowby gasses totally out of the intake stream

3) Ticking lifters
My oil pressure has never been as high as it should. BMW spec is ~18 psi at idle, I was getting ~8 psi at idle. Recently I have been developing some lifter ticking which was getting worse. My first suspect is the oil pump since it had some scoring in it that I noticed when I took it apart during engine assembly.

Solution:
ordered a used low mileage pump and all new replaceable parts for rebuild (new valve, piston thing, o-ring, spring, gasket) and switch to a little heavier oil (new: rotella t6 5w40 old: castrol euro formula 0w-40)

2nd solution:
check vanos chain tensioner piston for leaks/looseness (I read people having low oil pressure to the lifters at the front of the motor due to oil leaking past chain tensioner piston)

3rd solution:
check/replace offending lifters

4) Horrible drivetrain clunking/banging/thumping
Driving home last week friday right as I got home the car started making some horrible knocking/thumping feeling (like seriously horrible, like I'm driving over big sharp bumps) whenever I applied torque, most noticeable in first gear. I could feel it slightly when in other gears and not applying throttle, but most noticeable in first. It didn't seem like it was rpm related (motor is smooth revving which trans in neutral) and it also didn't seem to change the frequency when changing gears (so I think that rules out transmission). So my thoughts were basically problem with drivetrain after transmission (guibo, CSB, diff, half shafts, wheel bearings). I jacked the car up to take a quick look and didn't see anything obviously wrong.

Solution:
Inspect all the easy items closely to rule them out then take apart the diff.

2nd solution if diff is broken:
Install original 3.73 open diff, or if possible, swap LSD unit into original 3.73 diff making it LSD 3.73 and fix problems and put the 3.23 LSD back.

5) broken odometer
to add insult to injury my odometer stopped working also during drive home on Friday

Solution:
take it out and figure out what brand then order replacement gears (I have a bunch of other stuff to do while I'm in there, so whatever)





Overall solution to avoid burning the car and pushing it off a cliff:
Park it and don't touch it for a week. Build a gazebo instead.
(I ordered basically everything I need to solve all problems so I'll begin my campaign to fix it all tomorrow)



Pictures of said gazebo:









Started on the "roof" then ran out of wood because I changed the original design. I'll order more and finish next week. Then phase 2 starts: DIY solar pool heater panels will mount on top and heat the jacuzzi/pool year round. This spot gets literally a ridiculous amount of sunlight year round.








If anyone has better ideas or solutions let me know!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Finally started doing some work on the e30. The week and a half break from car repairs was good. Though I still procrastinated by cleaning my room, cleaning the pool twice, reorganizing all the pool/patio furniture, installing lights in the gazebo, cleaning out the garage and washing the e36. After all that got done, I ran out of excuses. So I disassembled the PS pump and oil pump. Rebuilt the PS pump with the new gaskets; internal parts looked good, no play in the shaft.





Workbench full of little parts.





Closeup of the oil pump. I am replacing all replaceable parts: valve, "spacer", o-ring, spring and spot welding the nut. All internal parts looked good with very minimal, if any, wear. You can see the new and old valves next to each other. The "spacer" probably didn't need to be replaced.





PS pump right before reassembly. This was very easy. Just watch out you don't drop the back side of the pump like I did (well actually it fell over). There are valves in the back half that are spring loaded and held in place with a small clip. It'll pop out if you jolt it. Mine exploded all over the garage. I was very glad I cleaned it out prior.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Started a thread in the general tech section to try to figure out what my driveline issues are. Sounds like DS U joints

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=361711

[pandaboo911]

Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 rebuild + goodies swap - DD / autox Journey

Do you live in the Los altos hills somewhere? Nice view

Nvm just saw ur from LA

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Do you live in the Los altos hills somewhere? Nice view

Nvm just saw ur from LA

I'm in the mountains in Topanga. It's an amazing view.

[yert315]

Just went through this thread. Nice work!

Clunking from drive line is usually the CSB. I haven't seen U-joints go bad that fast and knock that bad all of a sudden. Especially since it is most noticeable in 1st gear. It also could be as simple as an exhaust hangar loose allowing the exhaust to hit the underbody.

[CENTURION]

Did you intend on painting your gazebo now or anytime in the future? reason I ask is because I would have painted the wood prior to assembly. cuz man.... painting it after the roof is installed like that will take forever.......
o
r
e
v
e
r

but damn. nice view. must be nice chilln at night

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Just went through this thread. Nice work!

Clunking from drive line is usually the CSB. I haven't seen U-joints go bad that fast and knock that bad all of a sudden. Especially since it is most noticeable in 1st gear. It also could be as simple as an exhaust hangar loose allowing the exhaust to hit the underbody.

Yea, checked the u-joints and they were all tight and moved freely. Then I took a closer look at the guibo it was missing a bolt and there were cracks/tears around all the bolt holes on the back side. I'm gonna assume this is the issue. Picking up a new one this afternoon.

And believe it or not one of the rubber hangars was tor, though I don't think that was a problem. Exhaust still sat pretty stiff.

Did you intend on painting your gazebo now or anytime in the future? reason I ask is because I would have painted the wood prior to assembly. cuz man.... painting it after the roof is installed like that will take forever.......
o
r
e
v
e
r

but damn. nice view. must be nice chilln at night

Hellllllllllllllll no that's not getting painted. I used the stained and pressure treated lumber with no intention of painting it. It won't take long to weather nicely. And yaa it's baller at night with all the spotlights on, pool underwater lights, string lights under gazebo, music, grill