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I don't like white cars, yet I bought one. Story with pictures of my AW 325e

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    ...and I did change it.

    Now I have a rubbing issue - front right rubs the plastic lower well liner on a left turn. Found out the right wheel has way more castor than the left one. Car drives great, no pulling whatsoever. Looked at old photos - it has been like that before the alignment. Shouldn't the guy have caught that?
    Anyway, will look into it, cause it was late yesterday and I was tired.
    '85 Alpine Weiß 2-door with m20b30 ground up build


      Control arm bushings are just as they should be. Next is to check the LCA if it got mangled in some way after all the tow rides, they always tied the car down by the right LCA. Would be a shame, it is a brand new Lemförder unit.
      Pic for attention.

      '85 Alpine Weiß 2-door with m20b30 ground up build


        You may not have liked white but Alpineweiss is my favorite color for E30s and your car is a fine example of it. I like how the MTech 1 valances and thin (european spec to me, normal to you) bumpers make the car look longer and give it a lower profile look from the side.
        Last edited by varg; 07-18-2019, 07:53 AM.
        '91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
        [b u i l d]
        [Car of the month: April 2018]



          Thank you! As a matter of fact, white really grew on me to the point I wouldn't have it any other color. Maybe I should change the title one of these day.
          Same happened with the MTech 1 - at first I thought it would look worse, but now I love it and can't wait to have enough piece and quiet to mount the side skirts.
          '85 Alpine Weiß 2-door with m20b30 ground up build


            Beautiful car. I really like the wheels in the latest photo.


              Thanks, Mike! Yours is also e beaut!
              Onto some not so fun stuff.
              Before leaving for vacation with the GF, we went to a track day. Managed to knock off more than a second off my personal best time. However, when swapping back from track to street wheels/tires, the DS wheel rubbed against the back metal inner fender badly when turning left. Turned out, my powerflex LCA bushing turned 180 degrees, causing less caster and hence rubbing. Bummer, but couldn't fix it on the track, so I drove like that. Until last night. Up on the lift, swapped the LCA bushings for normal OEM ones - both wheels rub in the back of the fender while turning. Swapped in offset M3 LCA bushings. DS is better - no rubbing, but PS rubs like crazy against the front of the inner fender while turning left. And I have another "issue" - DS wheel sticks further out from the fender lip although it has more camber. PS is tucked under the fender lip, has less camber and rubs the front plastic inner fender while turning left, as mentioned. Measured the LCAs, they appear to be identical.
              Any ideas what I could check next? I plan on swapping in another LCA on the passenger side just to see if there is a small difference that I missed.

              Now, some more not so good news. After the track day, the engine developed a rattle, which sounds like a loose eccentric on one of the rockers, and started leaking oil from the valve cover gasket. So I get to adjust valve clearances over the weekend and use the opportunity to clean up the mess and put in a new gasket.

              Also, while on the lift, I noticed why my engine was dancing around.

              I'm sure I had tightened everything up, but oh well. Put in a self locking nut this time instead of the OEM one.
              Last thing I did yesterday eve was put the car on the newly acquired car scales, keep in mind those are in KGs:

              This is with a spare wheel and a bit shy off half a tank. Not too bad for a street car.
              Thanks for checking in and don't hesitate to give any advice on the wheel position issue :)
              '85 Alpine Weiß 2-door with m20b30 ground up build


                In regards to the bushing rotating, you can drill and tap a hole and fit a bolt in, grind the end down to a point and it'll bite into the bush and keep it located

                (clicky on piccy to get to thread)


                  Hello r3v, time to drop an update, which is basically a cry for help.

                  Originally posted by econti View Post
                  In regards to the bushing rotating, you can drill and tap a hole and fit a bolt in, grind the end down to a point and it'll bite into the bush and keep it located
                  Thanks econti, I was thinking about doing that, but ended up copying my solution from my m10 powered e30. It's basically a welded on and ground down piece of metal snug tightly into a slot made in the bushing itself.
                  More complicated and time consuming, but better in the long term IMO.

                  Installed them and now it's a bit better. Passenger side still rubs slightly on left turns but nothing crazy. I'll get it dialed in eventually.
                  First I need to pinpoint this stupid rattle/knock in the engine I've been chasing for the past month an a half. I don't drive the car anymore because of it, only start it and warm it up once in a while after I change something. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:


                  Rattle when engine running, rpm dependent, not movement or under load dependent. It is there even if cold started. NOT there when I start the car after 4 or more days of not driving it, but by the time I switch off the lights in the garage, close the door and lock it, get back into the car, the rattle is already there - quiet, but already there. It gets worse when the engine reaches operating temperature. It got progressively worse/louder over the course of about 10 days of driving after the last track day. I can hear it pronounced listening from the top of the engine, less pronounced from the bottom with the car on the lift, but still loud enough.
                  On that trackday the oil DID get to the 150oC mark briefly, which is about 300oF, but the oil is now changed. Water temp never got over the middle mark.
                  Oil pressure is 1.3-1.4 bar (18.8 psi - 20.3 psi) when idling on warmed up engine and always has been.

                  The engine DOES have a windage tray and crank scraper.
                  No noticeable power loss ( nor gains as well for that matter :D )

                  What I've done so far:

                  Oil change (flushed the oil cooler too) - didn't work
                  Rocker arm eccentric to valve stem clearance adjustment TWICE - second time was on the engine 10 days not started, did them 0.25 - no change at all
                  Inspected the oil tube over the rockers - clean, oil passes through, isn't low enough for the rockers to hit it.
                  Checked as best as I could for rocker arm and eccentric premature wear (everything is brand new) - no visual issues
                  Verified following twice: timing, bolt on cam sprocket, jeesus bolt and crank sprocket too - nothing out of order
                  Cam sensor doesn't hit the trigger in place of the distributor.
                  Cam belt tight enough, not slapping about
                  Started engine without accessories belt - no change
                  Unplugged coil connectors one by one while engine running to listen if the noise would change - no change
                  Pressed gently against the clutch on warmed up engine - didn't feel it through the pedal.
                  Listening with a screwdriver from the top I can hear it between cyl 2 and cyl 3, when listening from the bottom on the pan - almost everywhere. Not on the block though.
                  Pulled the plugs, in order of appearance

                  What I still haven't done yet:

                  Compression test, but did one before this rattle emerged - average of 210 psi across all cylinders on a warm engine.
                  Check the drive pulley on the oil drive shaft (it is a brand new unit, the solid one, not stamped steel one)
                  Pull the pan and check bearing caps.

                  A short video:


                  So, if anyone has any input for me, highly appreciated.
                  I'm waiting on a tiny camera with an LED to stuff into the cylinders right now. But would like to know if there is anything else I can check before pulling the pan off. Really don't want to do that.

                  Help, please
                  '85 Alpine Weiß 2-door with m20b30 ground up build


                    It sounds like it could be something hitting your windage tray/baffle.
                    How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows

                    Could be better, could be worse.


                      Originally posted by rzerob View Post
                      It sounds like it could be something hitting your windage tray/baffle.
                      I wouldn't rule that out, it does make sense. Still the question remains - why all of a sudden? Sure, I can drop the pan and check it out, but need to find the root cause. Prematurely and severely worn rod bearing(s) causing the rod(s) to move around? Why would it fail so early and why does the oil pressure stay high despite? Just questions for me to think on, don't mean to be a dick.

                      Also, there was some new development yesterday eve. A copy paste from my cry for help in the m20 specific section:

                      A member on here (zoomer) bought a small LED USB camera and called me immediately, he picked it up in my area. We went ahead and stuffed it into the cylinders and sure enough - valve to piston contact.
                      We took the timing covers off and did find the belt to be a bit loose, but the timing marks still line up perfectly. Adjusted the tensioner, belt is now as tight as it should be - marks still line up perfectly good.
                      Here comes the weird part. We rotated the nuke to retard the cam about 4 degrees, assembled all the stuff and started the car for about 3 seconds. Noise was LOUDER and now with higher frequency. Returned the nuke gear to zero, started again - a bit better but still there.

                      Now the question is - why did this engine cover over 3000 kms without making valve to piston contact and start doing it after a hot oil event? Both things seem to not be connected. Is it possible that the belt stretches under any load, even idling and causing the valve-piston contact, but returning to normal when engine is inop? That seems sci-fi to me, but has anyone encountered that?

                      I really don't want to reassemble the engine without finding the cause of this crap.

                      Another thing that comes to mind - the woodruf key on the crank sproket potentially could have failed, causing the timing mark to align, but the crank would be on the incorrect position.

                      What I intend to do next is rotate the cam gear in the opposite direction, start briefly and if it doesn't knock/rattle, I'll check compression numbers and take it from there. Definitely will check the woodruf key on the crank sprocket, but if anyone has some other pointers, would be happy to read them.
                      '85 Alpine Weiß 2-door with m20b30 ground up build