Prog Cont
Out with the old.
Didn't get a photo, but made a plate with 2 bolts welded as studs and Epoxied it in. I like Epoxy in this area, I don't feel like it will be as likely to rust with wet feet. 3m 5119.
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Some rust etcher / "Converter" Let the epoxy setup over night
Prime and test fit, BAM! LIKE IT WAS 1980! - Gold Chain
Made plate with an m10 welded nut, I didn't like drilling into the chassis. But there I went. This is for the side hardware for the DTM Castor blocks, Wire wheel'd ready for prime
Primejob
Seal the deal
Next, Reinforce the firewall. Booster moved 1.5 inches to the left. Firewall was pretty flexible before. Swiss'd.
I really like this material. Its .079 Strenx 100. Super strong and welds like butter. Cover the unused holes, tie down to steering shaft hardware. Take all the purchase your can afford.
Wurth weld thru prime - Its like GOLD DUST.
Both sides now with mounting holes
Bolt, check alignment. Fire!
Next I have to seal a hole in the Firewall to COWL area where I removed some of the factory B+ mounting. Water pours though and gets onto the engine harness and wicks into the cab.
Then on to strut tower reinf, I got some cool washers cut to help out there. Will be using the same .079 Strenx material
Pedal set is at powder coaters.
Also learned on the pedal set that there is a late and early set of bushings, the AKG ones didn't work for me and had to order Genuine, they look like they will work just fine.
Going to also upgrade the Bolt that holds the pedal set to the box.
Punch list before engine gets done at machine shop:
Prime job booster reinf
Fit DTM dead pedal
Tidy Right side battery tray removal
Reinforce strut towers
Remove rear hood mount, add DTM rear hood catches
Plug hole in HVAC area - Leaks water onto harness grommet pass thru and leaks into chassis.
Prep paint seam seal
Stoked guys editing the mold for the Carbon hood to my liking for more of a finished piece, hope to see an updated mold this weekend. :)!
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