I don’t like the cheap looking pads on the IE
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E30 the biowaste - M20B28 itb race car
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89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Febi looks ok, oem not so much89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Engine runs nicely, responds very well to throttle with new light flywheel. But I hitted problems with clutch. Previously cluch disengaged very low, almost at level of gear grinding. Now it does not disengage at all no matter what I try.
So my conclusion is that the release bearing might be wrong for this combination. Engine has 528E bellhousing and unknown throwout bearing, very likely from E30 325i. Clutch is Sachs 618 and organic disc. Slightly stepped flywheel made for M20.
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There is are 2 different depths depending on DMF flywheel for gearbox's. Maybe try 323 TO bearing with single mass flywheel?Last edited by moatilliatta; 06-08-2022, 11:34 AM.
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With that revelation, you probably don't need the 323 bearing.
One time at a 14hr race we blew 2 clutches (a rental driver error, long story). The third that went in was a mis match of parts from two clutch kits. Clutch pedal was right on the floor.
When we got back home and replaced everything, we took all the parts and lined them up. What we found was there's different stack heights, as well as different thickness of the actual clutch disc. Some discs are ~8mm, some are closer to 6mm.
What we determined was there's washers under the big rivets on the pressure plate, as well as more/less spring stacks on the outside. So, if you have a thin disc and have the pressure plate with less washers, it doesn't take much to disengage.
After a lot of years battling these kinds of situations, I put two bolts on the bell housing after installing the new clutch kit. Then, install the slave and check mechanical viability. The output flange should turn by hand with the pedal in and in gear. Nothing worse than buttoning up completely,only to realize you have too much/little travel.
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostWith that revelation, you probably don't need the 323 bearing.
One time at a 14hr race we blew 2 clutches (a rental driver error, long story). The third that went in was a mis match of parts from two clutch kits. Clutch pedal was right on the floor.
When we got back home and replaced everything, we took all the parts and lined them up. What we found was there's different stack heights, as well as different thickness of the actual clutch disc. Some discs are ~8mm, some are closer to 6mm.
What we determined was there's washers under the big rivets on the pressure plate, as well as more/less spring stacks on the outside. So, if you have a thin disc and have the pressure plate with less washers, it doesn't take much to disengage.
After a lot of years battling these kinds of situations, I put two bolts on the bell housing after installing the new clutch kit. Then, install the slave and check mechanical viability. The output flange should turn by hand with the pedal in and in gear. Nothing worse than buttoning up completely,only to realize you have too much/little travel.
By looking how the parts fit inside the bellhousing, I'd claim that even 30mm bearing does not solve completely the problem. Something else must be wrong. Fork is first suspect.
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