Originally posted by TeXJ
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Originally posted by MrBurgundy View PostMelon, make sure that purge valve is closing under the throttle body.
I think those are normally close, so if you take if off and blow through it, no air should be able to pass.
In theory, an open purge valve will cause a hard cold start.
Also, make sure your idle/throttle is all set up correctly.
***unplug your ICV and adjust the throttle stop screw until your idle gets up to about ~900 rpm. Then, reconnect the ICV and your idle should stabilize at 750 rpm. You may need to adjust your TPS again after the adjustment, since you're going to be changing your "closed" position of the throttle body.
I'm going to pull the purge line off, and cap it when I get home.
See what that does.
As far as long crank starts, it only does those after I've driven the car, gotten it temp, and then park it for an hour or two. When it's cold it cranks up pretty quickly.I do things.
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Found it!
Pin 45
No continuity to the blue temp sensor.
Pin 24 (Ground)
Tested good.
Car was warm, sensor was @ 275 ohms.
I did the idle screw adjustment, and adjusted the TPS, it seemed to help some, but I'll get the temp sensor working before I try to dial in all of that again.Last edited by Melon; 11-20-2019, 09:52 PM.I do things.
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Originally posted by Melon View PostFound it!
Pin 45
No continuity to the blue temp sensor.
Pin 24 (Ground)
Is good, but not the signal wire.
Car was warm, sensor was @ 275 ohms.
I did the idle screw adjustment, and adjusted the TPS, it seemed to help some, but I'll get the temp sensor working before I try to rest all of that.1990 325is
m52b28
3.73lsd
g260 (1987 325is 5spd tranny)
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