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    Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
    Very nice...any tips on what I should run with a zf trans? I like how my g260 is with my z4 shifter but Austin told me the zf will feel vague and stockish if I go with that option?
    Have not had a chance to drive it but based on messing with it for a few seconds and watching Austin shift it. Seems the throws are a bit longer but the shifts feel tighter and "notchier" then the G240, I would say it was the difference in the mileage and the G240 was worn out but they both have similar mileage also neutral in zf320 seems far back. I will end up trying a ZF310 selector rod and see if that moves the neutral a few mm since its a shorter rod. According to UUC ZF320 selector rod is 198mm and ZF310 is 189mm

    Neutral


    For the record I never touched an M50 prior to this one
    Last edited by EN318isPDX; 11-26-2012, 01:28 PM.

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      ???

      A shorter selector rod will not decrease shifter throw. The length from the bottom of the shifter ball to the pivot will do that, the longer that is the shorter the throw. Think pivots. Or am I misunderstood what you're talking about?

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        Originally posted by Justin B View Post
        ???

        A shorter selector rod will not decrease shifter throw. The length from the bottom of the shifter ball to the pivot will do that, the longer that is the shorter the throw. Think pivots. Or am I misunderstood what you're talking about?
        I am half awake and missed part of it. The neutral on the Zf320 seems to sit really far back angled like \
        and I wasn't sure if the shorter rod would decrease throw. Hopefully it will at least center the shifter. If not oh well

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          You need a longer selector rid to correct the issue you are having.
          -Andy

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            Originally posted by dashboardmonkey View Post
            You need a longer selector rid to correct the issue you are having.
            That's what she said!


            But seriously, I will deal with it, I can get into all gears so its not a deal breaker!

            Last edited by EN318isPDX; 11-26-2012, 03:36 PM.

            Comment


              Originally posted by Justin B View Post
              ???

              A shorter selector rod will not decrease shifter throw. The length from the bottom of the shifter ball to the pivot will do that, the longer that is the shorter the throw. Think pivots. Or am I misunderstood what you're talking about?
              The length of the selector rod does change the length of throw. The length of the rod determines how close the shift lever is from being perpendicular to the transmission. The less perpendicular the longer the throw is going to be.

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                Only have 3.5 inches of clearance now...

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                  Toes, post pics
                  Simon
                  Current Cars:
                  -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

                  Make R3V Great Again -2020

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                    I will when I finish it...

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                      You know what I hate? Central locking. The fucking metal tab that holds microswitch for the lock sheared off. So, on Saturday the car was giving me a hard time unlocking. Lock cylinder was turning but not unlocking. After work today pulled the door panel off not really knowing what I was looking for. Started poking around grabbed the switch and boom, it snapped off. I barely touched it and it came out. So, What I'm gandering is the bracket was already weak and possibly cracked. Hence why the lock cylinder and switch weren't making connection. Oh and get this, went to the parts car to pull another one and fml, that one broke! Now I'm attempting to expoxy the original bracket back together. AND the fucked part is i'm not even sure if this is my problem.

                      /Rant.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
                        You know what I hate? Central locking. The fucking metal tab that holds microswitch for the lock sheared off. So, on Saturday the car was giving me a hard time unlocking. Lock cylinder was turning but not unlocking. After work today pulled the door panel off not really knowing what I was looking for. Started poking around grabbed the switch and boom, it snapped off. I barely touched it and it came out. So, What I'm gandering is the bracket was already weak and possibly cracked. Hence why the lock cylinder and switch weren't making connection. Oh and get this, went to the parts car to pull another one and fml, that one broke! Now I'm attempting to expoxy the original bracket back together. AND the fucked part is i'm not even sure if this is my problem.

                        /Rant.
                        Try locking from trunk. if all doors lock you are fine. I bought a lock cylinder rebuild kit from pelican, not too difficult to construct and key

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                          I'm pretty sure it does lock from the trunk but not a 100 percent on that. I don't really want to try and lock the car right now, not until I have everything put back together.

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                            Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
                            Oh and get this, went to the parts car to pull another one and fml, that one broke!
                            Sorry man! I never used my driver side lock lol, in fear that something would break. Instead I used the trunk..

                            91 Alpinweiss2 318is OBD2 S52

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                              I replaced my ds door lock cyl a few years ago. Very rarely use it though. Keyless entry ftmfw
                              -Andy

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                                Ya know I just going to have get that, the GE keyless entry is ony 60 bucks. Fucking screaming deal if you ask me. I'm my wits end with this shit. I'm calling it quits before I start hitting shit with a BFH. Beyond frustrated.

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