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    Originally posted by Austin! View Post
    I think you're a bit far from home in this thread...lol


    Ah well it was worth a shot

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      Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
      now should I use Redline MTL or Valvoline ATF for flushing the fluid and refilling? leaning towards MTL have used it on my getrag 260s with good results. my trans is fucked up and very loud - always has been. hoping the MTL will quiet it down
      Royal Purple has won me over for manual transmissions. Tried both Redline and Royal Purple in the Getrag 260 and RP really quieted it down when compared to the Redline. I think i ended up using the RP 75W90.

      Bought some Royal Purple Synchromax to try out in the ZF 320, just have not gotten around to doing it.

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        We used to run Royal Purple in the RX7 chumpcar, it worked great and seemed to be easier to find locally then Redline.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
        2016 Ford Flex
        2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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          Originally posted by IronJoe View Post
          Will trade transmission jack usage for freedom bux w/full eye contact.
          Jacking for a jack?
          Simon
          Current Cars:
          -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

          Make R3V Great Again -2020

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            PNW Chit Chat thread

            Originally posted by Matt-B View Post
            It wont cause a no start, it would start run like shit and die.



            Basically you can unplug every sensor except the crank, and car will start at least, then die.



            Think about what you posted though, you changed the head, and now the afm is bad? it didnt go bad sitting there. You have fiddle with however, wires, cap , rotor etc. So make sure all of that is installed correctly...


            The wiring is installed correctly I am sure - it appears the afm remains the culprit. Engine *wants* to start, and backfired in the airbox when I try to turn it over and give'r some
            throttle. I think it's just starved for air as the flap's not opening due to a faulty afm.
            Relays seem okay - no corrosion on terminals and no foul smell.
            Looks like I need an afm.



            Situation is kinda starting to get desperate. I really need this to run and soon. Sharing a vehicle with my wife got old two months ago.

            @pdxseth I've dm'd you 2x re: M10 part-out. You still trying to offload four-cyl bits?

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              PNW Chit Chat thread

              Originally posted by M10Power View Post
              The wiring is installed correctly I am sure - it appears the afm remains the culprit. Engine *wants* to start, and backfired in the airbox when I try to turn it over and give'r some
              throttle. I think it's just starved for air as the flap's not opening due to a faulty afm.
              Relays seem okay - no corrosion on terminals and no foul smell.
              Looks like I need an afm.



              Situation is kinda starting to get desperate. I really need this to run and soon. Sharing a vehicle with my wife got old two months ago.

              @pdxseth I've dm'd you 2x re: M10 part-out. You still trying to offload four-cyl bits?

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


              Sorry I never check my dm shoot me a text 503 847 0325
              I have a basically new afm

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                Originally posted by Pdxseth View Post
                Sorry I never check my dm shoot me a text 503 847 0325
                I have a basically new afm

                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
                I will vouch for the AFM being good, it was new from my OEM parts warehouse about this time last year and the car probably drove 20 miles...if that.
                '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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                  m10power I dont think that its your AFM.

                  My bet is that your firing order is off. The engine should not backfire in the airbox under any circumstances. are you 1,000,000% sure that the plug wires are installed in the right order on the distributor cap and engine???

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                    Originally posted by M10Power View Post
                    Looks like I need an afm.



                    Situation is kinda starting to get desperate. I really need this to run and soon. Sharing a vehicle with my wife got old two months ago.
                    You can pop off that black plastic cap (just glued on) and clean the contacts on the sweep, also add a drop of lube to the rotating parts (slick 50 or similar, not wd40)
                    m106 1990 e30
                    e36 daily
                    e32 cruiser

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                      no afm is causing a no start...


                      firing order or something swapped around, I keep telling you, what did you remove...

                      the head and everything on it. SO thats where the issue is. back firing is caused when shit is out of order


                      Please leave feedback below, thanks

                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

                      Comment


                        Kind of doesn't sound like the AFM to me. Timing good? Compression good? Double check firing order. After getting it wrong several times, its now written on the side of my tool box :D Point is, when you take stuff apart sometimes you don't put it back together exactly right. Double-check your work first before you start replacing parts that were known good before you tore into it.

                        Need I remind everyone how I goofed the cam install on my S14 and killed two exhaust valves?
                        '89 Schwarz E30 M3 Cabriolet Build

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                          Originally posted by M10Power View Post
                          I think it's just starved for air as the flap's not opening due to a faulty afm.
                          Isn't the opening of the flap on the AFM dictated by air flow, meaning it will always be 'closed' when the car is stopped?

                          There are two different Air Flow Meters used on 944s although externally they are similar in appearance. Both AFMs use a flapper or barn door arrangement where, as air flow through the meter increases, it forces the barn door further open.
                          The cylinders act like a syringe sucking in air when the intake valves are open, which will cause airflow to open the flap just a little bit when the car is stopped. Unless you try to move the flap with your finger and it is completely reluctant to move I doubt you have air supply issues.
                          Last edited by hankolerd; 05-09-2017, 11:18 AM.

                          Daniel
                          1990 M3 - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=376104
                          2011 328i Sport Wagon - 6sp Manual, RWD, Sport

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                            it wont be fully closed, it needs to draw some air while idling

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                              Fuel lines backwards?


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
                              2016 Ford Flex
                              2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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                                Im still betting on the plug wires.

                                Just went to oreilly on my lunch - got some Valvoline MTL synchromesh fluid. It says it is BMW certified for 75w80 fluids. Only $20 for 2 quarts with tax, but the main reason I got it is because it is specifically engineered for transmissions with yellow metals. Seems to be a little bit thicker than ATF so perhaps it will quiet this bitch down. Will report back, couldnt find much info on any BMW forum about it. I will take a chance because my trans is already super tired.

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