M54 Madness, the remix

[nando]

Steve,

Looks awesome! Some day, we'll have to do another dyno day together - basically, your original M54 swap (and being able to adjust valve timing on the fly, vs me using a wrench) was sort of the basis of everything I've done over the last ~5 years (has it been that long? longer?).

Also, good sign - my 7 and 8 year olds think my E30 is a real race car (lol), and they're dying to go to a track day with me. :P

[hoveringuy]

So overall, which engine do you think is faster? Straight line, track, etc. which engine do you prefer?

Schrick cams, for sure!

[Jokester]

god you aren’t helping my temptations. Hahahahah. Amazing work btw.

[hoveringuy]

Small update. I installed a metal M56 valve cover. The plastic M54 one can crack and leak, a new one is $379. The M56 cover will never crack and has robust oil vapor separation built-in, plus it simplifies coils to the later pencil design. (no more bolts!).

[robrez]

Small update. I installed a metal M56 valve cover. The plastic M54 one can crack and leak, a new one is $379. The M56 cover will never crack and has robust oil vapor separation built-in, plus it simplifies coils to the later pencil design. (no more bolts!).

Plug and play?

[hoveringuy]

Plug and play?

Mostly. It fits the head just same. The coils are different so the wiring harness needs to match.

The round black cover is for the integral PCV. It used to not be serviceable, but now the membrane can be ordered from Russia and there are 3-D printed plastic caps (the tabs break when you remove it). I want mine to be be labeled "NOT OIL" in big letters.

[2mAn]

that looks great!

quite a head scratcher when you look at that motor, but I like it. Just says "euro motor" to me even though its just a M54 for the most part (extreme over simplification)

[wazzu70]

Small update. I installed a metal M56 valve cover. The plastic M54 one can crack and leak, a new one is $379. The M56 cover will never crack and has robust oil vapor separation built-in, plus it simplifies coils to the later pencil design. (no more bolts!).

I always find it amazing the m56 was good for something afterall!!

[hoveringuy]

Crap. I've had a small oil leak coming from my VANOS area. Checked the usual suspects and they were fine, checked torque on the VANOS unit mounting nuts and one of them just kept spinning...

[Jaker]

checked torque on the VANOS unit mounting nuts and one of them just kept spinning...

Been there done that with my M50 cylinder head. The holes in the Vanos unit are big enough for M7 studs (think intake and exhaust manifolds at the head). Don't even have to take the Vanos unit off. Just tap the head right through the Vanos unit.

[hoveringuy]

Just tap the head right through the Vanos unit.

yeah, I was wondering about that. I was planning on a helicoil. I'll need to remove the radiator for clearance, however. M6x1.0?

[Jaker]

yeah, I was wondering about that. I was planning on a helicoil. I'll need to remove the radiator for clearance, however. M6x1.0?

I edited my post above. Those studs with the 11mm nuts are M7. Not positive on the pitch, but I have the tap in my tap set, so I can confirm later today. And if memory serves me right, I was able to tap with the rad in place by using regular tools to turn the tap (small crescent wrench, small vice grips, etc...) rather than a tap handle. The hole is close enough size wise that no pre-drilling was required.

[hoveringuy]

This one is M6 with a 10mm nut. (.23" stud diameter)

It takes me about 3 minutes to remove the radiator (after draining coolant), I'd rather make sure I do it right, but will try it without removing the VANOS first.

[Jaker]

This one is M6 with a 10mm nut. (.23" stud diameter)

So just so we're on the same page here, I'm suggesting that you tap out the stripped M6x1.0 hole to M7 and use a stud from the cylinder head (all single Vanos M50/M52/S50/S52) where either the exhaust or the intake bolts to the head. Are you saying that the M54 uses M6s in those locations (the cylinder head where either the exhaust or the intake bolts to the head) or simply mentioning the size of the stripped hole for the Vanos?

[hoveringuy]

I'm just saying the stripped stud at the VANOS is M6, my exhaust studs are M7 as you stated.

I have found helicoils to be strong with no limit to service life. I think repairing to M6 would be fine, and likely stronger than stock.

I had previously repaired a cam cap stud that pulled (overheated motor) the same way and it was fine forever.