hoveringuy, keep up the good work
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Concept for the pickup screen. #14 mesh will be bonded between the two halves. Printed in CF-Nylon I think.
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The "actual" one turned-out perfect, better than I would have expected. It was $80 for printing, $25 for shipping and then another $40 for the tariff that I was promised I wouldn't be paying (but did...)
I'm having the oil pickup printed out of glass filled ULTEM.
This is WAY BETTER than needing to turn a bung on a lathe and fabricate a bunch of crap for a pickup, plus this locates the intake in a much better position.
This pan is coming along well enough that I'll do the CAD so most of it can be bent out of 5053 and ready to assemble like the steel one was.
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how do you get charged for tariff? CC company?Comment
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Just got a text invoice from DHL that basically said "if you want your shit pay the tax"Originally posted by DesertBMW View PostComment
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Great update! I assume the diameter and location of the printed pick up aligns with the baffle system?Comment
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There will be a new baffle to capitalize, pictures this weekend!Originally posted by projectJTv4 View PostComment
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Is that 3D printed part supposed to be a long term solution, or is it just a mockup for a metal machined part coming? My concern is how well it will hold up to the heat of the oil/engine. Like is there a possibility for it to melt or degrade and get into the oil?Comment
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The oil strainer is a mockup. It will be 3D printed, but it's being done in ULTEM GF which is good up to 340F or more. I'm comfortable with that because it's a no-stress part. It could also be done in aluminum, naturally, but it would weigh more which would stress the aluminum pipe above it more (which could also be done in a high-performance polymer...)Originally posted by JasonWilson48 View PostComment
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N52 oil temp ranges are 250 - 260F ?Comment
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this is such good work going on.Comment
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Baffle is basically in, just need to tack it to the pan and cut the top plate. Final capacity is 4 1/2 Qts, moving the rear bulkhead 20mm cost about a quart of capacity compared to the steel pan, but I'd be able to move the engine back another 3/4". This pan is also a skosh shallower in front than the steel pan for even more clearance.
What is the "proper" amount of oil in a pan? My philosophy is that it really doesn't matter as long as oil that doesn't have entrained air is being fed to the pump in all conditions. I envision the oil while I'm at the track of looking like a Cappuccino, with fluid on the bottom and a frothy mixture of oil and air at the top.
I don't want my oil to enter the center chamber directly, but through one of the side chambers. This gives the oil some time to settle-out and by the time it gets to the middle hopefully the air has escaped.
The holes in the baffle trap doors aren't huge, the idea being that in a 20 second sustained turn oil is constantly being fed into the center.
Other questions I have is, is it better to build the pan out of 6061 so it's "strong" or 5053 so it's pretty strong, but won't crack if it's hit?
Also, I am clearly not a fabricator. My aluminum skills are still a work in progress (although I'm pretty good with CAD). Check-out Kyle's work over at Harper Fabrication: https://harperfab.com/ He's interested in extending his line to the N52/N54 and when he does I'll be first in line! He has the technology to extend the pan wing to the passenger side by installing the bolts through access covers.
and with cover...
Last edited by hoveringuy; 05-10-2025, 07:01 PM.Comment
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One idiot's opinion- 5053.
The 6061 will still be weak at the welds, and be more likely to split if pummeled.
But honestly, I'd use whatever was in the metal rack...
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1018, 1019, whatever it takes....
now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george gravesComment
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Aluminum pan is done, and while it's perfectly serviceable I think I can do better....
New version is going to have the wing extended another 30mm to recover the oil capacity I lost by adding steering rack clearance. The top of the wing will also be higher, to allow better internal breathing and more importantly room to add baffling from the inside.
Finally, the pickup fits and works fine, but I'll optimize that design to be more direct which will increase bolt access, move the pickup closer to the passenger side (which is the critical side for extended left-hand turns..) while also making that pickup cheaper by $30 to print.
I'll be able to get those for around $50 which is Ok in my book...
Oh, and E36 dipstick in money!!
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