From knowing nothing to having a Thunderbird supercharger on an m20b27i

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  • Ether-D
    R3VLimited
    • Sep 2011
    • 2838

    #106
    Got my whodwho megasquirt. I've got a lot of reading to do...
    Originally posted by Andy.B
    Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
    1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
    ~~~~~~~~~~
    I was born on 3/25…
    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Comment

    • Ether-D
      R3VLimited
      • Sep 2011
      • 2838

      #107
      Today's progress.
      Attached Files
      Originally posted by Andy.B
      Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
      1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
      ~~~~~~~~~~
      I was born on 3/25…
      ~~~~~~~~~~

      Comment

      • Farbin Kaiber
        Lil' Puppet
        • Jul 2007
        • 29502

        #108
        Stupid me question, will enough air fit in there, and any issue being centered on Cyl #1 for flow to the rest of the cylinders?

        Comment

        • Ether-D
          R3VLimited
          • Sep 2011
          • 2838

          #109
          I've ordered a factory pulley off of a later model m90 that's a bit bigger than the 5% overdrive pulley it came with. This will achieve a few things, it will slow the s/c down and lower the boost to about 6-7psi to start. In doing so, it will also reduce the force being put on the belt so I can (hopefully) get away with using a 6-rib set-up instead of the factory Ford 8-rib rig. I will also be able to delay the intercooler for a minute on account of the less heat. I have the pump and heat exchangers, I just wanna get this show on the road.

          I have most of the plumbing done.

          Now I'll need to learn MSquirt. Who's got some pointers?
          Last edited by Ether-D; 12-29-2013, 06:39 PM. Reason: add some more thought.
          Originally posted by Andy.B
          Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
          1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
          ~~~~~~~~~~
          I was born on 3/25…
          ~~~~~~~~~~

          Comment

          • Ether-D
            R3VLimited
            • Sep 2011
            • 2838

            #110
            Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber
            Stupid me question, will enough air fit in there, and any issue being centered on Cyl #1 for flow to the rest of the cylinders?
            I don't think that's a stupid question. Mainly because I've wondered the same things. I've talked myself out of the possibility of either of them becoming a problem. All of the air does come in above 1 & 2, but i think the whole manifold will be pressurized and the air will just go where it can fit. And about enough air fitting, there is no smaller opening leading up to the s/c intake than the s/c intake itself. Idk if I said that right…
            Originally posted by Andy.B
            Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
            1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
            ~~~~~~~~~~
            I was born on 3/25…
            ~~~~~~~~~~

            Comment

            • FLG
              No R3VLimiter
              • Sep 2011
              • 3165

              #111
              Crossed my mind as well. But we'll see

              Op, whats going on in the other pic... I'm. A bit confused. Sorry, confused turbo guy here.

              Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

              Comment

              • Ether-D
                R3VLimited
                • Sep 2011
                • 2838

                #112
                The throttle body didn't have enough room behind the s/c where the inlet is. So I had to make a u-turn. The thing that is connected to the u-turn is the by-pass valve. It releases the manifold pressure to the inlet when the throttle plate is closed (or largely closed). It is a cousin to a blow-off valve, but it keeps the air inside the system.
                Originally posted by Andy.B
                Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                ~~~~~~~~~~
                I was born on 3/25…
                ~~~~~~~~~~

                Comment

                • Victell
                  E30 Enthusiast
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 1081

                  #113
                  Originally posted by Ether-D
                  the whole manifold will be pressurized and the air will just go where it can fit.
                  Thats right, the way I understand it. Designwise, it looks not unlike factory OEM boosted setups.

                  For a first prototype, it looks great.

                  Comment

                  • Ether-D
                    R3VLimited
                    • Sep 2011
                    • 2838

                    #114
                    Thanks! I think the biggest hurdle for me is gonna be the msquirt. Anybody have an old pc laptop for sale?
                    Originally posted by Andy.B
                    Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                    1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                    ~~~~~~~~~~
                    I was born on 3/25…
                    ~~~~~~~~~~

                    Comment

                    • Farbin Kaiber
                      Lil' Puppet
                      • Jul 2007
                      • 29502

                      #115
                      I know you've already done it, but I was thinking, if you came out in a tube, the same size as the TB, you could come back further, and straighten out the airflow, and make enough room to fit your air metering device, and air filter before getting into interference with the supercharger drive belt.

                      Comment

                      • Ether-D
                        R3VLimited
                        • Sep 2011
                        • 2838

                        #116
                        I don't think I follow, Farbin. The drive belt for the s/c is out of the way. Whatchutalkinbout?
                        Originally posted by Andy.B
                        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                        ~~~~~~~~~~
                        I was born on 3/25…
                        ~~~~~~~~~~

                        Comment

                        • Farbin Kaiber
                          Lil' Puppet
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 29502

                          #117
                          Originally posted by Ether-D
                          I don't think I follow, Farbin. The drive belt for the s/c is out of the way. Whatchutalkinbout?

                          OK, I was saying, instead of your black box doodad to connect the TB to the S/C intake, mount a mandrel bend, or series of mandrel bends to actually move the TB back further, above the M/C, and thus allowing room for your AFM/HFM/whatev you end up with, AND your air filter, so it is all behind the belt line, so to speak. Being as you are parallel to the S/C body, and tight with the TB, all the other stuff will be close as well. and you are already at the front of the engine bay.



                          Plus, since I am not modeling the flow, just spitballin' but the tightness can hamper flow, right?

                          Comment

                          • Ether-D
                            R3VLimited
                            • Sep 2011
                            • 2838

                            #118
                            Oh, like the tube would come straight back out of the s/c inlet and turn down and then back forward and up? That would work too I think. The reason I did it this way was materials on-hand, and I needed room for the by-pass valve to mount to the manifold.

                            edit: the air-flow tweaking can be an afterthought as far as I'm concerned. I'm just trying like hell to get this bitch up and going.
                            Last edited by Ether-D; 12-30-2013, 05:00 PM.
                            Originally posted by Andy.B
                            Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                            1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                            ~~~~~~~~~~
                            I was born on 3/25…
                            ~~~~~~~~~~

                            Comment

                            • Farbin Kaiber
                              Lil' Puppet
                              • Jul 2007
                              • 29502

                              #119
                              Pretty much, you got the idea.

                              Comment

                              • Ether-D
                                R3VLimited
                                • Sep 2011
                                • 2838

                                #120
                                So, the pulley ratio with the 5% overdrive pulley was to be 1:1.58 turning the s/c to 10,200RPM at redline. If my charger is working like new, that would get me 12.6psi theoretically. The new, factory, late model m90 pulley is 1:1.45. That means at redline, I'll be spinning the big m90 to about 9500 RPM, but with 10.4psi. I think that my s/c is likely not operating at peak efficiency any more just from wear and tear. I'm thinking 75% of that may be realistic.

                                10,000rpm is waaaay under what it can handle (If the interweb is true, it hits 15,500 on the thunderbird). Also hopefully, That will increase "gription" and reduce slippage on the s/c drive pulley since I'm only using a 6-rib belt. I think it will quiet everything down a bit too. I like the whine, but I don't want it all up in your face.

                                Thoughts? Is my math good? It seems about right.
                                Last edited by Ether-D; 01-01-2014, 12:48 PM.
                                Originally posted by Andy.B
                                Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                                1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                                ~~~~~~~~~~
                                I was born on 3/25…
                                ~~~~~~~~~~

                                Comment

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