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    #16
    Bumping this.

    I need to get a valve spring compressor. I plan on using it once or twice a year, so I don't need something super nice. On the other hand, I don't want something that is impossible to use or has a high risk of screwing up my cylinder head.

    There seems to be two may types I'm looking at, a screw compressor and a lever compressor. I'd appreciate any feadback on which is "better" and why. Also, how much am I overthinking this?

    The screw type seems like it would be simple to slowly apply pressure, but I'm concerned about the "screw side" rotating on either the spring retainer or the valve's combustion face:



    The lever type would avoid the screwing action, but I'm concerned actuating the lever may take a lot of force and tool has the potential to move around when the lever is locked/unlocked:
    sigpic
    1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
    1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
    1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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      #17
      I used the second type.
      The lever actually makes installation and removal easier.

      The finicky part is screwing in the collet as the spring wants to push it away.

      I think the first type is made of a pipe, which may bend.

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        #18
        / Thread

        https://metricmechanic.com/diy-tools/


        I cut this in half and do a cylinder at a time.

        I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.

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          #19
          Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
          / Thread

          https://metricmechanic.com/diy-tools/


          I cut this in half and do a cylinder at a time.
          That would be great if I was building a DOHC engine, but I'm working on an m20
          sigpic
          1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
          1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
          1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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            #20
            Ah. my fault... I've had luck with the basic ones from autozone on the M20. Threaded push with 2 stamped steel clampers.

            I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.

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              #21
              Originally posted by McGyver View Post

              The lever type would avoid the screwing action, but I'm concerned actuating the lever may take a lot of force and tool has the potential to move around when the lever is locked/unlocked

              Maybe, I don't understand how to use the tool correctly. But I locked the lever and then slowly screwed in the tool from the bottom until a spring was compressed. So, essentially I used it like the first tool.

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                #22
                I used the lever one, essentially adjusting it so that when the lever is compressed, it compresses the spring/retainer just enough to get at the collets.
                The range of motion is way more than you need to compress the valve, but it gives you lots of clearance to move the tool around.
                Once it's set, you don't need to use the threaded part at all.

                The mechanical advantage over the spring isn't bad but if you're taking apart a head that hasn't been apart in 20 years, the collets stick to the valve retainer and take some force to "pop" apart.
                Originally posted by priapism
                My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                Originally posted by shameson
                Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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                  #23
                  I have done literally thousands of m20 valve springs. I use a simple 12" c-clamp with a socket that has been notched and welded to the end.

                  Here's one that still floats around the shop made a long time ago, but prefer threads over the levers....

                  https://i448.photobucket.com/albums/.../m54b30007.jpg
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                    / Thread

                    https://metricmechanic.com/diy-tools/


                    I cut this in half and do a cylinder at a time.
                    A quality stud remover is what decreased my head rebuilding times for 24v. Had three to do in a row one week, and started double-nutting them out. Decided to call the tool truck and see what he could do. Showed up in an hour with 6, 7, and 8mm stud removers. Took about 10min to pull all the studs from all three (intake, exhaust and cam tray). :)

                    Now if there was just less valves/seats to cut, it would really cut down rebuild time lol.

                    john@m20guru.com
                    Links:
                    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

                      A quality stud remover is what decreased my head rebuilding times for 24v. Had three to do in a row one week, and started double-nutting them out. Decided to call the tool truck and see what he could do. Showed up in an hour with 6, 7, and 8mm stud removers. Took about 10min to pull all the studs from all three (intake, exhaust and cam tray). :)

                      Now if there was just less valves/seats to cut, it would really cut down rebuild time lol.
                      What kind of stud remover did you get?
                      A collet type like this:
                      https://www.ebay.com/i/284145810961?...saAq1IEALw_wcB

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                        #26
                        Something like that..

                        https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?tool_number=201
                        john@m20guru.com
                        Links:
                        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                          Does it actually do a good job of the install?
                          sigpic
                          1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                          1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
                          1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                            I think that stud remover functions on a locking cam action.
                            The collet style squeezes the stud with a threaded insert. It is pretty cumbersome and time consuming to use the collet type, but it does hold pretty tight. I think it holds tighter than my cheap locking cam type.

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