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Bullet Ride's 2.8L Stroker Project (Updated: Dyno Plot pg. 6)
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Originally posted by tinkerputzer View PostGreat job! Did you data log the dyno runs? Mind sharing your msq? I'm curious to see your timing map.
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Sweet setup, where did you get your cam? Also how do you like tuning it and running the 3.73? It sounds great and pull good in 4th gear!318iS Track Rat :nice: www.drive4corners.com
'86 325iX 3.1 Stroker Turbo '86 S38B36 325
No one makes this car anymore. The government won't allow them, normal people won't buy them. So it's up to us: the freaks, the weirdos, the informed. To buy them, to appreciate them, and most importantly, to drive them.
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Originally posted by downforce22 View PostSweet setup, where did you get your cam? Also how do you like tuning it and running the 3.73? It sounds great and pull good in 4th gear!
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Originally posted by Bullet Ride View PostOh, I was thinking it was based on the tire size and gear ratios of the car but it's really just the constant from the hp-tq relation. Cool.
I'll fix it. Thanks guys.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by digger View PostYou should get the same answer within a few %. What wheels and tires are you running, was it in 4th gear and 3.73?
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nice torque curve and power #s! it look's like you've done your homework - the cam timing probably helped you too, a lot of people skip that altogether.
what cam is it? I looked through the thread but the pics are blocked and I didn't see it listed anywhere.
you could probably break 200whp pretty easily by just adjusting your cam, it looks like it's biased towards torque, but on the street you may not want to do that. if it's a 284/272 or a 288 I'd have expected power to start dropping off at 6500 or later which would definitely get you there.
a BBTB might help but you should measure manifold pressure at WOT and see if you have any pressure drop before spending the money - and make sure if you do buy one, that they actually made it with a larger throttle plate (I got one that was supposed to be a BBTB, but it's really dremeled out and still has the stock plate). Also if you still have the stock airbox a large surface area cone filter will make a significant difference; I make less power than you and the stock airbox is a definite restriction.
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Originally posted by nando View Postnice torque curve and power #s! it look's like you've done your homework - the cam timing probably helped you too, a lot of people skip that altogether.
what cam is it? I looked through the thread but the pics are blocked and I didn't see it listed anywhere.
you could probably break 200whp pretty easily by just adjusting your cam, it looks like it's biased towards torque, but on the street you may not want to do that. if it's a 284/272 or a 288 I'd have expected power to start dropping off at 6500 or later which would definitely get you there.
a BBTB might help but you should measure manifold pressure at WOT and see if you have any pressure drop before spending the money - and make sure if you do buy one, that they actually made it with a larger throttle plate (I got one that was supposed to be a BBTB, but it's really dremeled out and still has the stock plate). Also if you still have the stock airbox a large surface area cone filter will make a significant difference; I make less power than you and the stock airbox is a definite restriction.
"you could probably break 200whp pretty easily" ... That's what I like to hear :D
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it's our firewall
yeah, you can defintely extend that powerband a bit with the 284/272. experiment with cam timing on the dyno to find the most power without sacrificing too much area under your torque curve.
a heat shield will make a difference on the dyno, but a much smaller one on the street (at speed, anyway). it's usually only when you're going slow or at a stop that the intake actually heatsoaks.
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Originally posted by tinkerputzer View PostFyi m50 throttle plate is 64.2 mm vs m20 60 mm if your planning to make your own bbtb.
* might look sweet
** should sound sweet
*** could be sweet
lol
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This seems like a really nice build for an M20. Does this make more power (peak or under the curve) versus an M52B28? It just seems like a lot of work for +45-50whp - not that I don't appreciate the build, because it's great!The Great Big M20 Timing Belt DIY
Some good information I've found online (no affiliation):
Turbo Tech (Garrett)
Four-cycle information and cam properties for beginners (ISKY Racing Cams)
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Wow can't wait to see it. Should be nice :)
Originally posted by Bullet Ride View PostRight now I'm actually thinking about building an ITB set up as a winter project, not because the car needs it per se, but because it'll look sweet*, it'll sound sweet**, and the throttle response will be sweet***
* might look sweet
** should sound sweet
*** could be sweet
lol
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Originally posted by blasphemy101 View PostThis seems like a really nice build for an M20. Does this make more power (peak or under the curve) versus an M52B28? It just seems like a lot of work for +45-50whp - not that I don't appreciate the build, because it's great!
Someone mentioned the same thing on another forum so I'll just quote what I've already said elsewhere...
A 24v swap would obviously yield better performance/$ but there's not really anything for me to learn from doing a 24v swap because it's already a well documented process. My goal with this project was just to learn about building a motor because it's something I had never done before. I happened to already have an M20 sitting around collecting dust so that's what I decided to use for the base of my build, but at the same time I didn't want to spend the money to rebuild a motor and end up with stock B25 performance so I opted for the 2.8L stroker route.
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