What oil do you use?

[Earendil]

on the jug it said it's formulated for Euro cars but i guess they meant newer cars lol

When they say it's formulated for Euro cars, they don't mean the recipe of the oil, they mean the price of the oil.

[griffincox]

When they say it's formulated for Euro cars, they don't mean the recipe of the oil, they mean the price of the oil.

It's $22.47 for 5 quarts at wal-mart right now. And is spec'd for new 911's. pretty good value.

But just a little thin for the M20. In Alaska... Perfect.

[M-technik-3]

Vr1.
it's so good, it's not street legal ;)

btw, on both my m30s they both had the back cam lob warn down and
I bought a used 284 with the same wear on the same spot.

Probably filled with gtx or whatever non-rocker friendly oil it's whole life.

What? I buy this at my local Autozone or Advanced when ever I'm changing the oil in either M3's.

[ajhostetter]

I run Amsoil. Redline comes 2nd, and Mobile 1 from Autozone if I'm in a pinch.

[Dj Buttchug]

Rotella T 10-40 or whatever it might be.

this but i hit up the 15-40

[squidmaster]

so, from what I can gather, 15w50 (or 40?) rotella would work out better than 20w50 rotella? Or should I just switch right to the M1 15w40 for the zinc and zddp levels? I mean, that article was talking about seriously antique cars though, not a late 80's, early 90's bmw.

[LowR3V'in]

So it's decided that the 15w50 m1 is factually better for
our sowing machine engines than vr1?
or any 20w50, and also that 20w is
horrendous, even 80*f cold starts?

What? I buy this at my local Autozone or Advanced when ever I'm changing the oil in either M3's.

http://www.valvoline.com//products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/9

I was thinking of this one but it's not vr1.

[ak-]

this but i hit up the 15-40

Just checked my trunk and yeah, it's 15-40 that I'm using lol.

[nando]

So it's decided that the 15w50 m1 is factually better for
our sowing machine engines than vr1?
or any 20w50, and also that 20w is
horrendous, even 80*f cold starts?

http://www.valvoline.com//products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/9

I was thinking of this one but it's not vr1.

we all know 20w50 isn't going to destroy your engine or anything. but it's objectively worse by several measures. the main benefit it has is cost.

what's the ZDDP content of VR1? it's interesting they talk it up on their racing oil but they don't tell you what's in it so you can compare..

I hadn't seen the ZDDP of the turbo diesel truck 5w40 before. I'm definitely going to give it a go this winter - that is, if I still have any left. :p

also, you don't want to use a "race" oil on the street. those oils are not meant for long term use - maybe a day or two at an actual race. they don't have the extra additives that keep the oil from breaking down, for cold starts, etc. because race engines don't need them, and also because it waters down the base stock.

[CarsSuck]

On my last change I switched from M1 (running strong for 10+ years) to VR1. There's no obvious difference. Cranks the same. Valvetrain sounds a wee bit "happier" on the VR1.

I've heard these rumors that Mobil changed the formulation of the M1 synthetic, with less zinc and such. VR1 has a warning statement that its for off-road use only ( bad for CAT converters), so I'm guessing M1 has been "cleaned up" by the EPA.

[nando]

they just updated the PDF this year, and it still has the same zinc content it always has.

nobody has any idea what ZDDP content is in VR1, so any rumors are pretty much pointless.

[Lenwood]

earl type

im running kendall gt1 syn blend 10/40. seems fine for norcal. low temp thermostat doesnt hurt either

[NeedaE30]

I'll probably be switching to Mobile 1 15w-50 and not changing my oil after ever track day. next year. My Engine oil used to get nasty black in a short period of time, but after 3 track days and three oil changes it's coming out really clear. When I went oil shopping this last winter the M1 15w-50 was twice what the GTX 20w-50 was for whatever reason, so I never looked back. Now it looks like it's only 50% more, which is easier to call "slightly cheaper" :)

Of course, if you're DDing you car and changing the oil ever 6 months, it's a lot harder to not budget an extra $30 for oil to get some quality stuff.

$22.00 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 15w-50 at my local wal-mart(s) my m20 was happier than a pig in shit when changed the oil with this never again will i stray away from this brand and weight of oil again, as long as i own an e30

I honestly feel that 15-50 is the perfect weight and mobil 1 is the perfect brand, for our e30's but this is obviously just my opinion. then put some mt-90 in your tranny and your e30 pretty much has an orgasm

[jeffnhiscars]

$22.00 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 15w-50 at my local wal-mart(s) my m20 was happier than a pig in shit when changed the oil with this never again will i stray away from this brand and weight of oil again, as long as i own an e30

I honestly feel that 15-50 is the perfect weight and mobil 1 is the perfect brand, for our e30's but this is obviously just my opinion. then put some mt-90 in your tranny and your e30 pretty much has an orgasm

Perhaps its the geography but I have never seen any synthetic oil (let alone M1) that goes to 50 in any store Ive ever been in.

For those who use thinner weight in warmer climates, keep in mind that as multigrade dino ages it default towards the lighter weight.

[griffincox]

5 quart jugs of 15W-50 are available at my local wally for $22.47. We are already past peak heat for the summer here in CO. I may try it next summer though. Maybe Ill do a UOA first on the 10W-40 and see if its really lacking anything specific.