Metric Mechanic 2900 Sport

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  • jneumss
    Member
    • Mar 2016
    • 42

    #61
    Originally posted by earthwormjim
    Perhaps the closed position on your throttle body needs to be adjusted? To idle, the engine needs the idle control valve to function, and a very small opening on the throttle body.
    Ahhh, yes. I adjusted the TB according to the Bentley using a 0.0015 feeler gauge. However, I did see another method is to unplug the ICV and set the idle to 950 rpm by adjusting the small set screw on the TB.

    I'll try this tonight.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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    • ForcedFirebird
      R3V OG
      • Feb 2007
      • 8300

      #62
      Even a stock m20 has low vacuum compared to other cars (~11).

      If the WOT switch in the TPS is malfunctioning, it will never go into the WOT maps, and it will continue to read the o2 (goes in open loop at WOT). But that doesn't explain the idle.
      john@m20guru.com
      Links:
      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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      • 325e '87
        E30 Addict
        • May 2017
        • 503

        #63
        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
        Even a stock m20 has low vacuum compared to other cars (~11).

        If the WOT switch in the TPS is malfunctioning, it will never go into the WOT maps, and it will continue to read the o2 (goes in open loop at WOT). But that doesn't explain the idle.
        Quick off topic- I’m so glad you posted this comment. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to my engine a couple weeks ago while messing around with it and my gauge has a red/yellow/green zone, my stock i reads in the yellow and I poked and prodded for a WHILE looking for leaks. My engine idles very smooth, starts right up, runs as smooth as I expect so I ignored it in the end but damn if it didn’t bug me for a week or so....
        My son has the 1987 325e, 2 door, 5speed
        I daily the 1989 325i, 4 door, 5speed

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        • jneumss
          Member
          • Mar 2016
          • 42

          #64
          Originally posted by 325e '87
          Quick off topic- I’m so glad you posted this comment. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to my engine a couple weeks ago while messing around with it and my gauge has a red/yellow/green zone, my stock i reads in the yellow and I poked and prodded for a WHILE looking for leaks. My engine idles very smooth, starts right up, runs as smooth as I expect so I ignored it in the end but damn if it didn’t bug me for a week or so....
          I had exactly the same feeling. I just adjusted the idle and TPS and now it's idling well around 800 rpm.

          I also passed emissions.

          Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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          • 2mAn
            Moderator
            • Aug 2010
            • 20062

            #65
            Originally posted by jneumss
            I also passed emissions.
            sooooo now to the dyno? ;D
            Simon
            Current Cars:
            -1966 Lotus Elan
            -1986 German Car
            -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

            Make R3V Great Again -2020

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            • redlightpete
              Wrencher
              • Mar 2012
              • 260

              #66
              How did you adjust the idle?

              Comment

              • ForcedFirebird
                R3V OG
                • Feb 2007
                • 8300

                #67
                Originally posted by redlightpete
                How did you adjust the idle?

                The ECU adjusts idle, he adjusted the throttle switch. It has slotted screw mounts ans it should click at idle and click at WOT. Even if they "click", they should be tested for continuity since the breather hose tends to leak oil on them and they go bad. Two of the pins should be shorted at idle, two of them at WOT, and all 3 should be open in any other position.
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                Comment

                • jneumss
                  Member
                  • Mar 2016
                  • 42

                  #68
                  Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
                  The ECU adjusts idle, he adjusted the throttle switch. It has slotted screw mounts ans it should click at idle and click at WOT. Even if they "click", they should be tested for continuity since the breather hose tends to leak oil on them and they go bad. Two of the pins should be shorted at idle, two of them at WOT, and all 3 should be open in any other position.
                  And it's worth noting that I messed with the throttle stop during engine break in to lock the idle at 2500rpm. I just never returned it to the stock position properly, so my TPS was not allowed to actuate the idle switch.

                  Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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                  • redlightpete
                    Wrencher
                    • Mar 2012
                    • 260

                    #69
                    Originally posted by jneumss
                    Ahhh, yes. I adjusted the TB according to the Bentley using a 0.0015 feeler gauge. However, I did see another method is to unplug the ICV and set the idle to 950 rpm by adjusting the small set screw on the TB.

                    I'll try this tonight.

                    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


                    So, did you adjust the throttle plate to a 0.0015" gap, per the Bentley manual, or use some other method? Just curious because my 2.8 stroker with a sssquid chip also idles roughly at approximately 650 rpm. I've checked that the TPS has continuity at idle, and I set the throttle plate at 0.0015". Thanks

                    Comment

                    • jneumss
                      Member
                      • Mar 2016
                      • 42

                      #70
                      Originally posted by redlightpete
                      So, did you adjust the throttle plate to a 0.0015" gap, per the Bentley manual, or use some other method? Just curious because my 2.8 stroker with a sssquid chip also idles roughly at approximately 650 rpm. I've checked that the TPS has continuity at idle, and I set the throttle plate at 0.0015". Thanks
                      Sorry I never replied to you. That is exactly what I did. Were you able to solve your issue with your low idle?

                      I am still struggling with a hesitation from off idle up to approximately 2800 rpm, but my idle is right around 700 to 750 rpm. My hope is to get the car running perfectly on the SSSquid chip and then piecing together a MS unit.

                      Comment

                      • redlightpete
                        Wrencher
                        • Mar 2012
                        • 260

                        #71
                        Originally posted by jneumss
                        Sorry I never replied to you. That is exactly what I did. Were you able to solve your issue with your low idle?

                        I am still struggling with a hesitation from off idle up to approximately 2800 rpm, but my idle is right around 700 to 750 rpm. My hope is to get the car running perfectly on the SSSquid chip and then piecing together a MS unit.
                        Still have the low/rough idle issue. I need to check the fuel pressure and hook up a wide-band to verify what's up with the mixture. If both those check out, I'll try to follow up with SSSquid, as I'm not sure why the ECU wouldn't be forcing it to idle at 800 as the chip is supposed to be set.

                        So far I haven't found anyone that says they have a good idle running the Schrick 284/272 with the stock AFM. Judging by how much a tight valve adjustment affects the idle on a stock motor, it's not surprising that the AFM would be unhappy with the bigger cam.

                        I don't have any issues with hesitation at lower revs, though it does feel like it has a bit of a lean surge cruising at very small throttle openings (made more obvious by the loose old drivetrain).

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                        • digger
                          R3V Elite
                          • Nov 2005
                          • 5909

                          #72
                          The solution is to just not use motronic and have full control over the icv, ignition timing and idle rpm. I recommend about 900-950rpm. This addresses the bulk of the issue but you'll still have the common plenum and Cross talking between cylinders which can be fixed with a set of itb lol
                          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                          • ForcedFirebird
                            R3V OG
                            • Feb 2007
                            • 8300

                            #73
                            Originally posted by digger
                            The solution is to just not use motronic and have full control over the icv, ignition timing and idle rpm. I recommend about 900-950rpm. This addresses the bulk of the issue but you'll still have the common plenum and Cross talking between cylinders which can be fixed with a set of itb lol



                            Motronic shouldn't be dismissed totally. It's a step above jets on a carb and points on a diizzy. Quite programmable.
                            john@m20guru.com
                            Links:
                            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                            Comment

                            • digger
                              R3V Elite
                              • Nov 2005
                              • 5909

                              #74
                              Actually from a fuel point of view if you ignore emissions and economy which on a high performance engine is not always a big deal then a good carb is very hard to beat.
                              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                              Comment

                              • nando
                                Moderator
                                • Nov 2003
                                • 34827

                                #75
                                it's too bad there's no easy way to use an EEPROM on Motronic (the WAR chip sortof is, but the software is crap).
                                Build thread

                                Bimmerlabs

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