If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Finally ordered the trans and clutch today. Getting a t56 from RPM and a clutch from diamond clutch. Waiting on my heads to get milled, which I dropped off last week, so I can get the motor put together but its taking forever. My damn machine shop guy dropped a ti retainer while putting the heads back together so he had to order a new one and its taking a while. But either way, the engine should be fully together by next week. Should be getting the trans in about 2 weeks. Clutch will be here next week. Also shipped my diff out to get it built. Should be getting that back in 2 weeks. Hoping I can have this thing running by this summer.... full power train should be in by march at least. But im trying not to put anything in the car until I can get all the grease and crap out of the engine bay. Kinda hard to do that when its sitting on jackstands in my garage....
The rear brake proportioning valve. It's on the rear line, right after the rear line comes off the bottom of the frame. Where that clip that holds the rear line and all the fuel lines is.
I guess i should be keeping line after all since I'm going non-abs.
The rear brake proportioning valve. It's on the rear line, right after the rear line comes off the bottom of the frame. Where that clip that holds the rear line and all the fuel lines is.
I guess i should be keeping line after all since I'm going non-abs.
Do you not need the rear proportioning valve with the wilwood set up? I guess it's a two master cylinder set up for the brakes?
I don't have the wilwood pedal box. I have massives booster delete and wilwood calipers. I'm not sure if you need to keep them or not with the wilwood setup. But I think mine with a single mc, apparently I need to keep it because the rears lock up before the fronts? I'm not really sure, just what I saw someone say.
I don't have the wilwood pedal box. I have massives booster delete and wilwood calipers. I'm not sure if you need to keep them or not with the wilwood setup. But I think mine with a single mc, apparently I need to keep it because the rears lock up before the fronts? I'm not really sure, just what I saw someone say.
Ah gotcha.
Yeah you will want to keep it then. I thought you had a dual master set up going.
Got the heads back from the machine shop yesterday and slapped them on this morning. Now just waiting for the rockers which should be here on monday, and various other stuff like windage tray, valve covers, random plugs and stuff which should all be here tuesday. So motor should be done this week.
Been a pain in the ass trying to figure that out. First I had a 17/17mm VW MC, but it didnt fill the hole in the plate/firewall. So I decided to switch to a 944 turbo MC, because there is supposed to be a 19/19mm unit that fills the hole in the firewall/adapter plate. Its basically the same exact size/shape as the stock MC. But when I got the MC from online, it wound up being a stepped 23/19 MC. So I still plan on finding a 19/19 porsche 944 turbo MC, but can't find the right part number or anywhere to buy it....
Edit: I actually think I just found it after looking for about a week... I had been checking all porsche models up until 1986, and I think it turns out that the 1987 Porsche 944 with non-abs brakes has a 19/19mm MC. So thats what Ill be going with. It actually has 3 outlets, 2 for rear and 1 for front. So Ill just plug one of the rear ones.
Got the entire block put together now. Also got some of the fuel system in.... definitely have room to grow with this lol. Should be getting the fuel cell, regulator, filters, and fittings in tomorrow as well.
Awesome work. Interested on how you're gonna setup your fuel system. Spent a lot of time reading on it today, altho I might just go with the vette FPR route.
Well im doing a fuel cell in the trunk. Probably -10AN line out of the cell to the pump mounted right after/below the cell. 10 micron filter in front of the pump, 100 micron after. -8AN line out of the pump into the aeromotive regulator. Then return line from regulator, cant remember the size. I think -8AN maybe -6AN. Then I'll probably run the feed -8AN line along the frame rail under the car near where the stock lines ran up to the fuel rails.
I definitely went wayyyy wayyy too big. Just wanted room to grow and didn't want the fuel system to be a question.
What are your question marks for your fuel system? The vette FPR seems like definitely a good cheap/easy route, but Ive read some stuff about people seeing bad pressure at their rails. And then probably a walbro pump or the bosch 044 would be cheaper/easier than Im doing. You doing in tank?
I have a late model e30, so just a single in-tank Walbro 255, vette FPR, 3/8in hose for feed and 5/16 for return. I can always go with an aftermarket FPR if the vette one turns out to be bad. Im not sure if i should go with rubber hoses along the frame rail or go with hard lines. Actually I'm not even sure what the stock setup is, i have to take a look under there tomorrow. Also not sure what to do with the tank vent line.
Comment