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Front Crank Seal?
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degrease it and above that area there to isolate whether it is starting/coming from as it might be starting from above the seal. If its the seal it will start at the lip that's near the vibration damper89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by digger View Postdegrease it and above that area there to isolate whether it is starting/coming from as it might be starting from above the seal. If its the seal it will start at the lip that's near the vibration damper1992 325i Cabrio
1988 320i Touring
2000 M5
1977 530i
2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
BMWCCA
E30CCA
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I spot an oil drip on the far left of your photo on one of the oil pan bolts....
The front main was nice and easy to do when i had the engine out of the car. wouldn't be much fun with it in the car though.
I am a big porponent of "dont touch what isnt leaking" when it comes to lip seals. So if the other lip seal on the oil pump drive shaft isnt leaking and looks good, id be inclined not to touch it...Although thats a tough call given how much of a pain in the ass it is to change those lip seals. But you'd hate to repalce a non leaking seal only for your new one to leak a week later.
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Whenever I do timing belts on these cars I do all the seals. Intermediate, Crank, Cam, and the lower housing to block. They are all old probably due...
Last edited by moatilliatta; 11-10-2021, 06:37 AM.
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Thanks again for all the replies! Without taking things apart, I cannot see any leak above the crank, so I'll plan to replace all 3 seals and cover gasket "while I'm in there." Since this will be the first time I remove the timing belt myself, I have a couple of follow-up questions.
1. I just had the timing belt done in July. The Bentley manual says to replace it anytime the tension is relieved Would you all replace it again so soon just because it's removed?
2. Do I need a tool to keep the engine at TDC? Does that tool even exist?
Thanks again,
Cory1992 325i Cabrio
1988 320i Touring
2000 M5
1977 530i
2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
BMWCCA
E30CCA
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I would replace belt as it’s cheap but tensioner will be ok. There is no tool for tdc Line OT mark on vibration damper ( or crank gear) with notch on the lower timing cover and the cam gear should align with mark on head. You may need a tool to hold crank gear to get big crank bolt loose if using a breaker . Leave timing belt on until you break cam bolt, intermediary gear bolt and crank bolt loose so the engine doesn’t go out of time.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by digger View PostI would replace belt as it’s cheap but tensioner will be ok. There is no tool for tdc Line OT mark on vibration damper ( or crank gear) with notch on the lower timing cover and the cam gear should align with mark on head. You may need a tool to hold crank gear to get big crank bolt loose if using a breaker . Leave timing belt on until you break cam bolt, intermediary gear bolt and crank bolt loose so the engine doesn’t go out of time.1992 325i Cabrio
1988 320i Touring
2000 M5
1977 530i
2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
BMWCCA
E30CCA
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Originally posted by cory58 View Post
Thank you! Great advice. Is it ok to use an impact to break those bolts loose?
You'd better buy a crankshaft holding tool and new bolts for it.
and a pipe to make an extension for a breaker bar.
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While the timing belt is still on, loosen the bolts using the belt to keep them from rotating. You'll have to replace it anyway.Last edited by Vincenze; 11-15-2021, 12:08 PM.
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Originally posted by Vincenze View Post
You can't use it in that area.
You'd better buy a crankshaft holding tool and new bolts for it.
and a pipe to make an extension for a breaker bar.
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While the timing belt is still on, loosen the bolts using the belt to keep them from rotating. You'll have to replace it anyway.
Cory1992 325i Cabrio
1988 320i Touring
2000 M5
1977 530i
2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
BMWCCA
E30CCA
Comment
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Originally posted by cory58 View Postdo you mean it won't fit in that area or it should not be used on the crank bolt?
And it shouldn't be used on a crankshaft anyway. The bearings can be destroyed. Of course, every auto mechanic uses it.
The tool isn't expensive considering the power you need to unscrew the bolt and then screw it back.
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If the pan is off a piece of timber jammed inside between crank and block skirt also works well89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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So I've decided to replace all 3 seals "while I'm in there," regardless of which one is leaking. Coincidentally, my favorite YouTube channel (M539 Restorations) recently did a timing belt job on an early M20 E30, including the cam seal. There was an o-ring on the cam seal cover that he also replaced. I can't find that o-ring on any of the RealOEM diagrams for my car. Did the design change and eliminate that o-ring on later E30s?
Thanks, Cory1992 325i Cabrio
1988 320i Touring
2000 M5
1977 530i
2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
BMWCCA
E30CCA
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