Front Crank Seal?

[cory58]

I found a new oil leak on the cabrio. It's marked with an arrow in the picture below. Front crank seal? If can do further investigation if it makes a difference for diagnosis, but it seems to leak when the engine is running but not when it just sits. Thanks, Cory

Oil Leak by cory58f5, on Flickr

[digger]

degrease it and above that area there to isolate whether it is starting/coming from as it might be starting from above the seal. If its the seal it will start at the lip that's near the vibration damper

[cory58]

degrease it and above that area there to isolate whether it is starting/coming from as it might be starting from above the seal. If its the seal it will start at the lip that's near the vibration damper

Thank you. It's definitely running in that area from the front lip back. Good advice - I will check above there again for signs of a leak.

[Vincenze]

Why would you guess?
Replace both seals if you have to unscrew the crankshaft bolt.

There is nothing else in that area unless the oil drips from the head.

[e30davie]

I spot an oil drip on the far left of your photo on one of the oil pan bolts....

The front main was nice and easy to do when i had the engine out of the car. wouldn't be much fun with it in the car though.

I am a big porponent of "dont touch what isnt leaking" when it comes to lip seals. So if the other lip seal on the oil pump drive shaft isnt leaking and looks good, id be inclined not to touch it...Although thats a tough call given how much of a pain in the ass it is to change those lip seals. But you'd hate to repalce a non leaking seal only for your new one to leak a week later.

[moatilliatta]

Whenever I do timing belts on these cars I do all the seals. Intermediate, Crank, Cam, and the lower housing to block. They are all old probably due...

[ADEN]

I suspect the piece that hold the crank and intermediate seals attached to the block (don't know what they call it) it has a gasket that might leak.

[cory58]

Thanks again for all the replies! Without taking things apart, I cannot see any leak above the crank, so I'll plan to replace all 3 seals and cover gasket "while I'm in there." Since this will be the first time I remove the timing belt myself, I have a couple of follow-up questions.

1. I just had the timing belt done in July. The Bentley manual says to replace it anytime the tension is relieved Would you all replace it again so soon just because it's removed?
2. Do I need a tool to keep the engine at TDC? Does that tool even exist?

Thanks again,

Cory

[digger]

I would replace belt as it’s cheap but tensioner will be ok. There is no tool for tdc Line OT mark on vibration damper ( or crank gear) with notch on the lower timing cover and the cam gear should align with mark on head. You may need a tool to hold crank gear to get big crank bolt loose if using a breaker . Leave timing belt on until you break cam bolt, intermediary gear bolt and crank bolt loose so the engine doesn’t go out of time.

[cory58]

I would replace belt as it’s cheap but tensioner will be ok. There is no tool for tdc Line OT mark on vibration damper ( or crank gear) with notch on the lower timing cover and the cam gear should align with mark on head. You may need a tool to hold crank gear to get big crank bolt loose if using a breaker . Leave timing belt on until you break cam bolt, intermediary gear bolt and crank bolt loose so the engine doesn’t go out of time.

Thank you! Great advice. Is it ok to use an impact to break those bolts loose?

[Vincenze]

Thank you! Great advice. Is it ok to use an impact to break those bolts loose?

You can't use it in that area.

You'd better buy a crankshaft holding tool and new bolts for it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143489251994

and a pipe to make an extension for a breaker bar.

---
While the timing belt is still on, loosen the bolts using the belt to keep them from rotating. You'll have to replace it anyway.

[cory58]

You can't use it in that area.

You'd better buy a crankshaft holding tool and new bolts for it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143489251994

and a pipe to make an extension for a breaker bar.

---
While the timing belt is still on, loosen the bolts using the belt to keep them from rotating. You'll have to replace it anyway.

Thank you Vincenze . Very helpful info. I figured I would need a tool to hold the crank but had not started looking yet. Regarding the impact wrench, do you mean it won't fit in that area or it should not be used on the crank bolt? Coincidentally, there is a thread on the R3v FB page today about breaking loose the crank bolt. Here is a link to the conversation.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=269416051783080&set=gm.10161557919832627

Cory

[Vincenze]

do you mean it won't fit in that area or it should not be used on the crank bolt?

The radiator support is in front of the bolt. I don't think you'll be able to insert a regular impact wrench there.

And it shouldn't be used on a crankshaft anyway. The bearings can be destroyed. Of course, every auto mechanic uses it.

The tool isn't expensive considering the power you need to unscrew the bolt and then screw it back.

[digger]

If the pan is off a piece of timber jammed inside between crank and block skirt also works well

[cory58]

So I've decided to replace all 3 seals "while I'm in there," regardless of which one is leaking. Coincidentally, my favorite YouTube channel (M539 Restorations) recently did a timing belt job on an early M20 E30, including the cam seal. There was an o-ring on the cam seal cover that he also replaced. I can't find that o-ring on any of the RealOEM diagrams for my car. Did the design change and eliminate that o-ring on later E30s?

Thanks, Cory