Traditional Wheel Studs?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • curry
    Member
    • May 2015
    • 61

    #1

    Traditional Wheel Studs?

    I am curious, has anyone tried to use traditional wheel studs (see below) on an e30 hub rather than the "conversions"? You would have to drill out the hub but I would think that they would be more secure.

  • nando
    Moderator
    • Nov 2003
    • 34827

    #2
    IMO, no point. The studs on the market work just fine.
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

    Comment

    • varg
      No R3VLimiter
      • May 2014
      • 3283

      #3
      Haven't done it, but seem like a lot of work for little reward. Screw in studs with thread-lock are quite secure.

      IG @turbovarg
      '91 318is, M20 turbo
      [CoTM: 4-18]
      '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
      '93 RX-7 FD3S

      Comment

      • mikebloco
        Advanced Member
        • Feb 2015
        • 190

        #4
        I put in 78 mm studs with red locktite a month ago and I've been hitting the back roads pretty hard. If they were gonna break it would've happened already. I thought it was sketchy at first but now I feel safe.

        Comment

        • SkiFree
          R3VLimited
          • Jun 2011
          • 2766

          #5
          Those are press-in wheel studs. The male knurling would need to match the knurled holes on the hub. Older Bimmers prior to the e21 had studs done this way.

          Now ... as for "more secure" part. Nando is right, there is no reason to do this. You can even think of it like this .... even the factory ditched it many moons ago. Not to mention you'd need to knurl your hubs and chamfer the backside of the rotors (the press in stud has about an eighth inch of exposed shoulder).

          It's cool you are thinking outside the box, but those active synapses could be better used elsewhere.
          ADAMS Autosport

          Comment

          • Northern
            R3V Elite
            • Nov 2010
            • 5036

            #6
            Do it. Stripping the splined section on those studs and having the whole stud/nut spin is lots of fun when you're trying to remove a wheel.
            Originally posted by priapism
            My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
            Originally posted by shameson
            Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

            Comment

            • curry
              Member
              • May 2015
              • 61

              #7
              Originally posted by SkiFree
              Those are press-in wheel studs. The male knurling would need to match the knurled holes on the hub.
              In my experience, the hubs dont have knurling but are slightly smaller in diameter than the OD of the knurling. The act of pressing them in creates a 'knurling' in the hub.

              Originally posted by Northern
              Do it. Stripping the splined section on those studs and having the whole stud/nut spin is lots of fun when you're trying to remove a wheel.
              I have had 6 cars with splined hubs and I have never once stripped knurling on them. I don't think your comment is in any way based on facts.

              Comment

              • nando
                Moderator
                • Nov 2003
                • 34827

                #8
                well, many of us have had the thread in studs with threadlock for a decade or more and have never had one back out.

                do whatever you like, I just think it's a waste of time.
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment

                • curry
                  Member
                  • May 2015
                  • 61

                  #9
                  Originally posted by nando
                  well, many of us have had the thread in studs with threadlock for a decade or more and have never had one back out.

                  do whatever you like, I just think it's a waste of time.
                  This is not a commentary on the quality of conversions, I was just curious if anyone had...

                  Comment

                  • Northern
                    R3V Elite
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 5036

                    #10
                    Originally posted by curry
                    I have had 6 cars with splined hubs and I have never once stripped knurling on them. I don't think your comment is in any way based on facts.
                    One word: Ford.
                    Originally posted by priapism
                    My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                    Originally posted by shameson
                    Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

                    Comment

                    • pandaboo911
                      R3VLimited
                      • May 2010
                      • 2070

                      #11
                      That kind of joint is sketchy anywhere there's vibration and heat cycling. They used that all over, even on the throttle bodies, and guess what, it fails.

                      Use a threaded stud pls, it's likely safer since its a no brainier to install.

                      Comment

                      • jlevie
                        R3V OG
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 13530

                        #12
                        The front wheels are easy, though you will probably have to get new hub/bearing assemblies. The rears are a pain as the half shafts have to come out and the hub pulled (new bearings will be needed. Installing the studs is a matter or drilling out the holes to the direct diameter for the studs and then pressing in the studs.

                        I've used the screw in studs (with red lock tite) from Bimmerworld for years on my race car. I've only experienced two stud failures in that time, but keep in mind that the wheels get changed at least three times each race weekend.

                        And if you break a thread in stud it can easily be removed by heating that area of the hub to 340-400F to break down the lock tite and unscrewing the stud with vice grips. Takes maybe 15 minutes.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment

                        • curry
                          Member
                          • May 2015
                          • 61

                          #13
                          Originally posted by pandaboo911
                          That kind of joint is sketchy anywhere there's vibration and heat cycling. They used that all over, even on the throttle bodies, and guess what, it fails.

                          Use a threaded stud pls, it's likely safer since its a no brainier to install.
                          I bought a set of threaded studs because I could get them cheaper than traditional studs, I was just curious if anyone had done it. There is no risk for vibration except if you unbalanced the stud from material removal and if you did that, you shouldn't be using the hub anyway.

                          Comment

                          Working...