I am curious, has anyone tried to use traditional wheel studs (see below) on an e30 hub rather than the "conversions"? You would have to drill out the hub but I would think that they would be more secure.
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Traditional Wheel Studs?
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Those are press-in wheel studs. The male knurling would need to match the knurled holes on the hub. Older Bimmers prior to the e21 had studs done this way.
Now ... as for "more secure" part. Nando is right, there is no reason to do this. You can even think of it like this .... even the factory ditched it many moons ago. Not to mention you'd need to knurl your hubs and chamfer the backside of the rotors (the press in stud has about an eighth inch of exposed shoulder).
It's cool you are thinking outside the box, but those active synapses could be better used elsewhere.
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Do it. Stripping the splined section on those studs and having the whole stud/nut spin is lots of fun when you're trying to remove a wheel.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
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Originally posted by SkiFree View PostThose are press-in wheel studs. The male knurling would need to match the knurled holes on the hub.
Originally posted by Northern View PostDo it. Stripping the splined section on those studs and having the whole stud/nut spin is lots of fun when you're trying to remove a wheel.
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Originally posted by nando View Postwell, many of us have had the thread in studs with threadlock for a decade or more and have never had one back out.
do whatever you like, I just think it's a waste of time.
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Originally posted by curry View PostI have had 6 cars with splined hubs and I have never once stripped knurling on them. I don't think your comment is in any way based on facts.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
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The front wheels are easy, though you will probably have to get new hub/bearing assemblies. The rears are a pain as the half shafts have to come out and the hub pulled (new bearings will be needed. Installing the studs is a matter or drilling out the holes to the direct diameter for the studs and then pressing in the studs.
I've used the screw in studs (with red lock tite) from Bimmerworld for years on my race car. I've only experienced two stud failures in that time, but keep in mind that the wheels get changed at least three times each race weekend.
And if you break a thread in stud it can easily be removed by heating that area of the hub to 340-400F to break down the lock tite and unscrewing the stud with vice grips. Takes maybe 15 minutes.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by pandaboo911 View PostThat kind of joint is sketchy anywhere there's vibration and heat cycling. They used that all over, even on the throttle bodies, and guess what, it fails.
Use a threaded stud pls, it's likely safer since its a no brainier to install.
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