I am curious, has anyone tried to use traditional wheel studs (see below) on an e30 hub rather than the "conversions"? You would have to drill out the hub but I would think that they would be more secure.
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IMO, no point. The studs on the market work just fine. -
Haven't done it, but seem like a lot of work for little reward. Screw in studs with thread-lock are quite secure.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17Comment
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I put in 78 mm studs with red locktite a month ago and I've been hitting the back roads pretty hard. If they were gonna break it would've happened already. I thought it was sketchy at first but now I feel safe.Comment
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Those are press-in wheel studs. The male knurling would need to match the knurled holes on the hub. Older Bimmers prior to the e21 had studs done this way.
Now ... as for "more secure" part. Nando is right, there is no reason to do this. You can even think of it like this .... even the factory ditched it many moons ago. Not to mention you'd need to knurl your hubs and chamfer the backside of the rotors (the press in stud has about an eighth inch of exposed shoulder).
It's cool you are thinking outside the box, but those active synapses could be better used elsewhere.Comment
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Do it. Stripping the splined section on those studs and having the whole stud/nut spin is lots of fun when you're trying to remove a wheel.Originally posted by priapismOriginally posted by shamesonComment
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In my experience, the hubs dont have knurling but are slightly smaller in diameter than the OD of the knurling. The act of pressing them in creates a 'knurling' in the hub.Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
I have had 6 cars with splined hubs and I have never once stripped knurling on them. I don't think your comment is in any way based on facts.Originally posted by Northern View PostComment
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well, many of us have had the thread in studs with threadlock for a decade or more and have never had one back out.
do whatever you like, I just think it's a waste of time.Comment
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This is not a commentary on the quality of conversions, I was just curious if anyone had...Originally posted by nando View PostComment
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One word: Ford.Originally posted by curry View PostOriginally posted by priapismOriginally posted by shamesonComment
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That kind of joint is sketchy anywhere there's vibration and heat cycling. They used that all over, even on the throttle bodies, and guess what, it fails.
Use a threaded stud pls, it's likely safer since its a no brainier to install.
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The front wheels are easy, though you will probably have to get new hub/bearing assemblies. The rears are a pain as the half shafts have to come out and the hub pulled (new bearings will be needed. Installing the studs is a matter or drilling out the holes to the direct diameter for the studs and then pressing in the studs.
I've used the screw in studs (with red lock tite) from Bimmerworld for years on my race car. I've only experienced two stud failures in that time, but keep in mind that the wheels get changed at least three times each race weekend.
And if you break a thread in stud it can easily be removed by heating that area of the hub to 340-400F to break down the lock tite and unscrewing the stud with vice grips. Takes maybe 15 minutes.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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I bought a set of threaded studs because I could get them cheaper than traditional studs, I was just curious if anyone had done it. There is no risk for vibration except if you unbalanced the stud from material removal and if you did that, you shouldn't be using the hub anyway.Originally posted by pandaboo911 View PostComment
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