The Welding Thread

[McGyver]

I picked up the HF hood on Monday, should get to test it out by tomorrow.

There should be a little dial on the inside near the lens that adjusts the speed of the darkening - even the HF ones have them.

You know, the battery on mine is probably dead (been in storage for ~3 years). But even when it worked, it never worked well. It came used with my used welder and was pretty beat up when I got it. I figure it'll be nice to just have a new hood.

[McGyver]

The new hood is amazing, just having a window without scratches/burns is worth the $43, I've never been able to see so clearly.

Now the welds on the other hand, not. looking. great. I'm using a Lincoln SP125 Plus with flux core wire. I cleaned up the surface with a flapper wheel, then used a carbide grinder to make a groove where the two sides of the butt-weld will be joined. I'm doing a series of short bursts, rather than dragging a pool.

To me, this picture looks like a cold weld. What do you guys think, and what should I be doing?

[ForcedFirebird]

The new hood is amazing, just having a window without scratches/burns is worth the $43, I've never been able to see so clearly.

Now the welds on the other hand, not. looking. great. I'm using a Lincoln SP125 Plus with flux core wire. I cleaned up the surface with a flapper wheel, then used a carbide grinder to make a groove where the two sides of the butt-weld will be joined. I'm doing a series of short bursts, rather than dragging a pool.

To me, this picture looks like a cold weld. What do you guys think, and what should I be doing?

Looks like you aren't holding the heat long enough, so yes, a bit cold.

With flux core, you really can't short burst it like you can with gas. You need to hold the heat long enough for the flux to evacuate the oxygen (oxygen is what puts those bubbles in the weld).

Also with flux core, you need to brush the oxidation off every time you start/stop, or you will have "rust" in the bead.

HF sells replacement lens protectors. They just kind of slip behind a couple channels in front of your lens - but the size they sell doesn't really fit my helmet, but they cut easy with scissors. Yes, it's amazing how dirty they get and how much it can obscure the weld. A dirty lens cover can also cause slow/no auto darkening.

[McGyver]

Looks like you aren't holding the heat long enough, so yes, a bit cold.

Turns out I had the power and ground backwards on my welder, probable because the PO set it up for gas even though he was running flux core. My welds got way better once it was connected correctly. Since this welder is only 110v, I've also started preheating thicker metal, which has been giving me much better penetration.

That being said, I think it's time to start looking into TIG welders. I'm in the middle of turboing my m20 and will need a custom down-pipe, exhaust, and will likely need to weld aluminum at some point. I feel like the cost of getting something custom fabricated would be similar to the cost of buying a welder and doing it myself (plus I still have the welder).

What should I look for in a cheap-ish hobby welder? I'm only able to run 110v @15A for the moment, but having the ability to plug into 220v would be a nice future-proof. I plan to weld stainless and aluminum. I don't want to spend an excessive amount, but am willing to pay what it costs to have the features I need and some degree of durability (I don't want to feel like I'm constantly fighting with bad equipment). Any brand/model suggestions?

[ForcedFirebird]

Honestly, I don't have a lot of experience with the cheaper inverter machines, aside from the Everlast TIG/Plasma. That was always used as plasma cutter only and didn't even make it a year with light shop use. To compare the Hobart 190 has 100's miles of wire through it in the past ~10yr of ownership with ZERO issues (purchased new), and the TIG welder is an older transformer Syncrowave 300 and was built in 1984 (I've had it ~13yr?).

One thing I can suggest, though, is make sure whatever machine you get has a high frequency start, and at least AC function (preferably square wave). If you are a beginner, it will take some time to get used to a scratch start, and without A/C, you won't be welding any aluminum.

Also, don't get hung up on a 110v machine. Most homes have a dryer, stove, hot water heater, or all of the above (even most apartments). Any of those circuits will be enough to run a good size welder (I have never popped the 50amp breaker at the shop). I have one 220v 3 pole "welder" outlet in the shop and made a 50' extension cord from some 10/3 stranded wire, a dryer plug end and a gang box with a matching outlet on it. I can take the cord to any house and plug right into the dryer outlet (or stove with a pigtail adapter I made for the powder coating oven).

[LowR3V'in]

110v is good enough to mig anything car related or even tig unless ur doing a cage or an intake manifold.
also, has anyone used a harbor freight titanium? Super light and welds really good. they have an aluminum spool gun too.

on 110v it was hot enough to do this thick stuff and even undercut it.
i have an old clark fluxcore mig for outdoors. it always pops the breakers and is HEAVY. Titanium never does and weights like 5lbs.
migs come a long way.

Clevis Mcfartland by jet jones, on Flickr

I'm in the middle of turboing my m20 and will need a custom down-pipe, exhaust, and will likely need to weld aluminum at some point. I feel like the cost of getting something custom fabricated would be similar to the cost of buying a welder and doing it myself (plus I still have the welder).

just mig exhaust. tig is so time consuming and a waste on exhaust imo.

[McGyver]

I know I can MIG an exhaust, but I also have several oil pans with small cracks to fix, will need to weld a turbo drain to an oil pan, and expect to have some other aluminum projects. I think my main goal is to get something that can run off 120v (no way I can access 240v in my current apartment), HF starts, and AC welding for aluminum.

I've been looking at Everlast Welders. I understand that them being cheap is a double edged sword, but it does have a 5 year warranty. The PowerTIG 200DV offers a lot of features for for $1,220, but only have advanced square wave form. For only $310 more ($1,530), the PowerTIG 210EXT offers all of the same features, but also soft square and triangular wave forms. It also offers more control over 4T (adjustable up slope). I'm leaning towrds the 210EXT.

[AWDBOB]

I know I can MIG an exhaust, but I also have several oil pans with small cracks to fix, will need to weld a turbo drain to an oil pan, and expect to have some other aluminum projects. I think my main goal is to get something that can run off 120v (no way I can access 240v in my current apartment), HF starts, and AC welding for aluminum.

I've been looking at Everlast Welders. I understand that them being cheap is a double edged sword, but it does have a 5 year warranty. The PowerTIG 200DV offers a lot of features for for $1,220, but only have advanced square wave form. For only $310 more ($1,530), the PowerTIG 210EXT offers all of the same features, but also soft square and triangular wave forms. It also offers more control over 4T (adjustable up slope). I'm leaning towrds the 210EXT.

I know multiple folks that are professional welders (even some bigger shops) that have switched over to Everlast. Their stuff is quality, despite being cheaper than the competition.

[McGyver]

I decided to get an Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT. It's definitely more powerful than I need, but it should give me the flexibility to do larger stuff in the future (with a water cooler). I figured that I'd rather spend an extra couple hundred bucks now to avoid spending a couple thousand later when I need more power.

First project is going to be a welding cart to hold the MIG, TIG, 2 gas bottles, some consumables, and room for a water cooler in the future. It should be a fun project to lean to TIG steel.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Turns out I had the power and ground backwards on my welder, probable because the PO set it up for gas even though he was running flux core. My welds got way better once it was connected correctly. Since this welder is only 110v, I've also started preheating thicker metal, which has been giving me much better penetration.

That being said, I think it's time to start looking into TIG welders. I'm in the middle of turboing my m20 and will need a custom down-pipe, exhaust, and will likely need to weld aluminum at some point. I feel like the cost of getting something custom fabricated would be similar to the cost of buying a welder and doing it myself (plus I still have the welder).

What should I look for in a cheap-ish hobby welder? I'm only able to run 110v @15A for the moment, but having the ability to plug into 220v would be a nice future-proof. I plan to weld stainless and aluminum. I don't want to spend an excessive amount, but am willing to pay what it costs to have the features I need and some degree of durability (I don't want to feel like I'm constantly fighting with bad equipment). Any brand/model suggestions?

Get an AHP alpha tig. It can do 110/220 tig/stick and for the money its probably the best machine out there its only like 799 on amazon. I have one and love it can do aluminum really well.

nvm just seen you got the everlast lol should kept reading

[AWDBOB]

Get an AHP alpha tig. It can do 110/220 tig/stick and for the money its probably the best machine out there its only like 799 on amazon. I have one and love it can do aluminum really well.

nvm just seen you got the everlast lol should kept reading

The Alphatigs are great. The 201xd (200x replacement) is actually on sale for $690 straight from AHP, available early July