Under the knife: My car's progress

[UNHCLL]

*cough*
thread jack anyone
*cough*

[Skafrog]

I gotta keep some sort of street performance? ;)
LOL
Actually, Solid mounts would be way way worse, then it really would be metal to metal contact. This way I at least have *some* dampening for the street.
I think the noise might be something to do with the design as well. RTRS' bushings have a metal bolt that runs from the subframe nut all the way up to the chassis mounting spot. This would lead to increased noise as well.
UNHCLL, not really, TJ is doing these mods, and he will have the opportunity to flash his new bling on his next update, which I am eagerly awaiting. Why not have some tech in here as well?

[nando]

the IE bushings have the same thing (metal tube). I think one reason my car is so quiet inside is all the sound insulation.. I know my car has more than my friend's 318is. of course my car is also a LOT stiffer than his :)

then again, I spent about a month and a half rebuilding the drivetrain/suspension on my car, so I don't really remember what it felt like before, only that it was more comfortable on bumpy roads. lol

[trent]

My differential is in great shape, and I have all new bearings, and it whines. Not loud, but loud enough..

Maybe when your diff was built the backlash was incorrectly set.

Check out RTRS' bushings for the rear, you will be pleasantly suprised.

Who is RTRS?

[Skafrog]

no, the noise has been there every time we have installed them in an e30. Two people have even brought them back because they were too noisy.
RTRS is a small company in florida that we use for upgraded bushings because their products are amazing.

http://www.bmwbushings.com is now stocking their whole line.

Now that you bring it up Nando, you might be correct. I have no tar, and no noise insulation anywhere in the rear. That may be the difference.

[rwh11385]

I have RTRS offset CA bushings. :P

Err, but one is loose/broken.....damn.

[Digitalwave]

Day 5:

I spent a long frickin time trying to get the old subframe bushings out. No luck at all. I used a gear puller to get the center shaft and rubber out, but that sleave that is the outter part of the bushing is ON THERE! I cut slots in it, heated it up, banging it with a hammer... it won't move.

I reinstalled the front end of the car, with the urethane dust boots and got the strut bar installed with the 3rd bolt mounted and all.

I got all the remaining tools I needed, star sockets, 18mm open end wrench, propane torch, torque wrench, 1 1/4" deep socket...

[Skafrog]

TJ, lookin good. May I suggest a way to get the bushings out if you havent already tried it? Take a sawzall and cut two slits into the outer race of the bushings, making sure you cut completely through the sides I cant tell in your pic, but it doesnt look like its all the way through, I might be wrong. If the rubber is still in the bushing, drill two holes close together with a drill and then stick the sawzall in the two holes to get it started. After you cut through the sides, get a huge ass hammer and have at it.

[trent]

Day 5:

You didn't burn them long enough.

[MR 325]

Strut bar turned out great, your engine bay looks really clean. Sparco sticker is a nice touch too.

[rwh11385]

heh, TJ, just noticed your engine bay looks clean like Matt's but without the snail.

[Digitalwave]

Yeah, I don't have quite as much blue as Matt in my engine bay either :)

[Stu]

Looking good TJ. Subframe bushing work is a PITA, I had a hell of a time with mine a few months ago. :D Good luck finishing it up!

[nando]

I welded up a tool to remove mine. popped them out in a couple minutes, no fooling around with torches and saws.

[Digitalwave]

What did the tool look like?