My 88 SETA

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Nice little project, did you have the head skimmed or block decked to increase compression ratio?

No I did not skim the head or deck the block. So at that point in my build I was going to turbo it. Prior to me doing the head swap I had a shop building me a 2.8 stroker with high compression. Long story short I was over promised and under sold. I did manage to get my money back and I'm still on good terms with the guy. So after that deboggle I was on the fence on what I should do. I actually had it up for sell for awhile during this time. I was going to buy a E92. Thought about it hard and in the end I just couldn't bring myself to self to sell it. Plus everyone kept asking for me to part it out. I didn't want to do that. So with new found motivation I decided to fix/replace a lot parts and components that needed it.
Even though it's still low compression it doesn't feel slow. In fact when it comes on cam (as they say, around 3500 rpms) it pulls all the way to around 7000 rpms. It is a SETA which is one of the best ways to do a 2.7i conversion. Don't get me wrong I'm going to punch out the bottom end and bump the compression. But for now it's not a bad little car.
This was long way to answer your question I know. I like to paint a picture of what I'm thinking.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

So the wheels I ordered came in. I like them for what they are. They are not to bad for reps.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Took some better pictures today. Crazy how set of wheels can transform the look of a car.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

So I finally got around to fixing my exhaust tips or more or less the axle back. It's not 100% perfect the whole exhaust really could use a overhauling. But for now it's not bad.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

So I got a rough estimate of what a 2.9 long block would cost. Should I order one ready to go? Or buy the pistons, rods, and crank and take it to a machine shop and re-use my current head? 7-8 grand for all new or maybe 4-5 grand (guessing) order the parts separate.
What do you guys think? I know in the end it's about how much money I want to spend. Also what are my goals (street car with 10.1 comp, ITBs, longevity, etc.). I guess my real question is, is it worth spending the money to have a engine that is turn key ready or should I save the money and do it locally (because what I want to use the car for doesn't necessitate the need to get fancy)?

[digger]

So I got a rough estimate of what a 2.9 long block would cost. Should I order one ready to go? Or buy the pistons, rods, and crank and take it to a machine shop and re-use my current head? 7-8 grand for all new or maybe 4-5 grand (guessing) order the parts separate.
What do you guys think? I know in the end it's about how much money I want to spend. Also what are my goals (street car with 10.1 comp, ITBs, longevity, etc.). I guess my real question is, is it worth spending the money to have a engine that is turn key ready or should I save the money and do it locally (because what I want to use the car for doesn't necessitate the need to get fancy)?

the fun is in the journey, get the bits and DIY.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

the fun is in the journey, get the bits and DIY.

I'm leaning that way

[moatilliatta]

It usually takes going through a few machine shops to get a good one. Worse if you're not sure what to look for and its always expensive to do it twice. A turn key solutions is a nice luxury though.

What engine ingredients do you have?

[It's Soda Not Pop]

It usually takes going through a few machine shops to get a good one. Worse if you're not sure what to look for and its always expensive to do it twice. A turn key solutions is a nice luxury though.

What engine ingredients do you have?

I haven't order anything yet. I was going through Bimmerheads for either a done long block or their 2.9 stroker kit. I do already have their SS head so I could reuse that.

[digger]

sounds like you only need a short block, surely the company that quoted a long block will do a short block or only the machining if you wanted to DIY.

Depending how much you wanted to DIY and the cost vs risk of short/long block vs bare block and DIY will give your answer.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

sounds like you only need a short block, surely the company that quoted a long block will do a short block or only the machining if you wanted to DIY.

Depending how much you wanted to DIY and the cost vs risk of short/long block vs bare block and DIY will give your answer.

Oh yeah they will do a short block. I'm just at odds with what exactly I want to do. I know what end result I want.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

sounds like you only need a short block, surely the company that quoted a long block will do a short block or only the machining if you wanted to DIY.

Depending how much you wanted to DIY and the cost vs risk of short/long block vs bare block and DIY will give your answer.

It will come down to money and turn around time in the end. I don't mind doing the work on my own. That's what I've always done. But as I get older I really just want to enjoy the car sooner than later (meaning I don't want it taken apart and laying around for 2 or 3 years before it gets back together). Also I'm having to replace my AC and Furnace which was not planned so that where went a good chunk of change.
Like I said earlier I believe I'm leaning toward buying a good used block and a stroker kit and having a machine shop handle the hard stuff. Then I'll just resurface my head and run with that. The head is in good order and already an upgrade.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

I also have to make the wife not leave me. lol

[digger]

i have done the same get a used block and get the Machine shop to do the short block, this way all the tedious stuff gets done by them. Agree i wouldn't bother getting another head when yours probably just needs a light resurface

[It's Soda Not Pop]

So I did a few things over the past few days. A few dress up bits and stuff that I didn't need but money was burning a hole in my pocket I guess . I also purchased edge protection seals from CATuned. Now they are not OEM, but they were very affordable and new. I'm under the impression that you can't get the oem any more, or at least you have to hope sites just have them in stock.
Anyway the seals are not one solid piece. They are cut at one end and you have to just mate them up on the car. No big deal. They fit ok. They are tight which is nice, but I wish that they were a bit deeper. Again they fit tight and they do seal up good. But they could be deeper, meaning slide on to the pinch more. My old seals were shot and these are miles better than what I had. I will probably track down some OE ones later on, but for now these will do. I will post pictures of stuff later to show you guys what I mean.

*Update*: