E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_110. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Details of the hatch with a lifting and sliding cover (part 3)

I have heard more than once that if the hatch cover is not installed correctly, it can be scratched when closing... Anyway, I prepared myself just in case! :)




It was possible not to paste over the contour - there is still a rubber seal there. Then he removed that tape.
Manually on both sides, we install the mechanism in the "ventilation" position, level the drainage bar.


We put the lining of the hatch cover.


We fasten its rods to the drainage bar on both sides - just snap it.




The slider roller will have to go into the groove on the skin.


But it will have to be done later. For now, we push the cladding into the roof niche so that it does not interfere.


The hatch cover is screwed to the curtain with three bolts on each side.


We put the cover and fasten it without tightening the bolts.




Manually lower it to the "closed" position. According to the instructions, the hatch cover should be placed so that it is 1 mm below the roof level at the front, and 1 mm above the roof level at the back. The right side was exposed without any problems. But on the left, where the lid was boiled - a fiasco! Either the insert between the fasteners was welded higher than necessary, or the cover "came" from welding... But it became an arc... This can be seen in the photo:


No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't set it up properly... So, I put it as it turned out... In the "closed" position.

The gearbox has three positions on the limit switch:
"open" - a long stroke of the gear clockwise
"ventilation" - a short turn of the gear counterclockwise
"closed" is the middle position.
Use the button to set it to the middle position - "closed". Such a scheme :)


In this position, we screw the gearbox, and the first test gave the following result:


The "ventilation" is normal, but when opening and closing the lid clings to the roof with its "hump". It's good that I sealed the lid with masking tape! There are no scratches. Lowered the cover on the left as far as possible - after that it stopped sticking to the roof. But now both left corners are much below the level of the roof... That's such bullshit... :( I don't know what to do... I'll probably look for another whole cover... but that's a problem... Well, that's it... Let's continue!
We pull out the paneling from the niche, put its rear grooves on the rollers of the slider.




Now we fasten the clips on the front face of the skin.




We close the hatch.




"Airing".


We open the hatch.


The reducer is in place, it can be covered with the front panel, which I wrote about in the section on the ceiling lining.
On the sides, it is fixed with self-tapping screws through the niche of the hatch into special brackets.




The edge of the panel cladding is pressed with the front pressure bar, on a non-hardening sealant.


We screw the bar.




WEBASTO is the brand name of the hatch manufacturer.


On the sides of the edges of the paneling, the panels are wound under the door seal. Near the windshield, the panel is screwed together with the sun visors. I will write about them later.


Finally, the sunroof and headliner are installed!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_110. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Details of the hatch with a lifting and sliding cover (part 2)

So, after installing the ceiling paneling, the hatch niche looks like this - the cable tubes are removed, the edges of the paneling are glued, but they still need to be pressed by the hatch parts.


Black non-hardening sealant and special original grease for hatches RHF 1 (83 19 2 157 321) are used to install the hatch mechanism. I used almost a third of the sealant, although probably too much - it could have been less. Two 20 g bags of grease were enough - there was still quite a lot of grease.


While cleaning and painting parts, one cracker (54 12 1 843 424) on the slider broke - replaced both of them. They are simply taken off tightly and put on the same way.


On hatches after 85, these crackers have a different design - on two axes at once, instead of a round roller.

Before starting the installation, we lubricate the grooves of the rails, which will then be inaccessible under the roof. We apply a non-hardening sealant to the body and to the plates and rails.






We first install the plate, pressing it to the ceiling lining. And we install a rail on it. The rear end of the rail must be fixed inside the roof niche. At the same time, the front end is placed under the tube for the cable. We fix them in the back part with a self-tapping screw.


We unscrew the gearbox, and lubricate the place where it lands on the cables.


Lubricate the cable and grooves on the rail, insert the cable into the tube.


We insert the cable into the tube and insert the crackers on the link and on the slider into the groove of the rail. Cover the place where the cable tube exits with sealant.


So that the sealant does not get on the cable through the holes in the upper plate, we glue them with adhesive tape.


Cover the cable with a plate and fasten it with four self-tapping screws.

We fasten the plate for the position of the "ventilation" hatch with two screws.


We check by moving the slider manually.


And then I remember that I did not install the drainage bar!! )) Fiasco! Sorting out...


First, we insert the drainage bar into the groove - just like in the photo! Through it, water from the rear face of the hatch is diverted in both directions, to the drain.


And then we already insert the cable, slider and pulley into the grooves, close it with the top plate, as written above. We push the plank deeper into the niche so that it does not interfere.


Similarly, we collect on the other side.


We install the back pressure bar on the sealant.


We set the sliders on both sides to the same level. Lubricate the cables for landing the gearbox gear.


The hatch mechanism is installed, it remains to adjust it and install the hatch cover.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_110. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Details of the hatch with a lifting-sliding cover (part 1)

So, I begin the installation of the sunroof with an electric drive. These are two sections of ETK that must be considered together.

Details of the hatch with a lifting-sliding cover




Part No. 1 - electric hatch reducer plate (54 12 1 906 424). Metal plate with tubes for cables. It is different for a hatch with a manual drive.
Part #2 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X9.5 (07 11 9 901 554) - 5 pcs. For fastening plate No. 1.
Part No. 3 - sheet nut ST4,8-1 (07 12 9 925 735) - 2 pcs. For fastening plate No. 1.

Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X9.5 (07 11 9 906 717) - 2 pcs. For fastening cable tubes.
Part No. 5 - front pressure bar, only up to 85.
Part No. 6 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X9.5 (54 12 1 932 543) - 26 pcs. For fixing hatch details.
Part #7 - left rail (54 12 1 933 213) and right rail (54 12 1 933 214)
Part #8 - guide left (54 12 1 843 485) and right (54 12 1 843 486)
Part #9 - left (54 12 1 843 479) and right (54 12 1 843 480) bar
Part No. 10 - rear pressure bar (54 12 1 859 819)
Part No. 11...No. 16 - drive cable left (54 12 1 933 749) and right (54 12 1 933 749) assembled with sliders. Pre-85 and post-85 different #13 sliders and #16 rollers are used in this assembly.

Part #17 - left (54 12 1 907 253) and right (54 12 1 907 254) neck
Part #18 - screw M4X12 (07 11 9 900 692) - 4 pcs. For fastening necks.
Part No. 19 - left curtain (54 12 1 941 3210 and right (54 12 1 941 322)
Part No. 20 - cracker (54 12 1 933 550) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 21 - Torx bolt with washer ISA M5X10 (54 12 1 907 282) - 6 pcs. For fixing the hatch cover.
Part No. 22 - hose L=335MM (54 12 1 904 824) - 1 pc. For insulation of the left cable tube.
Part No. 23 - delivery (54 12 1 959 856) - 2 pcs. I don't know what it is, I haven't come across such a detail either in mine or in the donor hatch kit. No longer available to order.


Assembly_111. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Electric sunroof control

Control pod.-zdv.kr. electric hatch




Part No. 1 - hatch electric drive reducer (54 12 1 874 871)


Part #2 - screw M5X25 (07 11 9 906 4160 - 3 pcs.
Part #3 - washer B5 (07 11 9 932 047) - 3 pcs.
Part #4 - screed L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 1 pc.
Part #5 - BLAU microswitch (61 31 1 369 184). It is riveted to the gearbox housing from the factory.
Part No. 6 - emergency electric hatch drive (54 12 7 199 322)

Maybe I didn't search well, but I didn't find a single meaningful topic on the Internet about installing a hatch. Therefore, I will write in great detail, there will be many photos, and probably several parts.
I have already said that the installation of the hatch is connected with the installation of the ceiling lining. First, you need to install an electric drive with tubes for cables.


The tubes are screwed with self-tapping screws from the middle of the cabin. The dead end of the tube is screwed to a special bracket, into the inlet tube - to the niche of the hatch.


The inlet tube should come out on the cable rail plate.


The metal platform is screwed to the body from the front with two self-tapping screws in the built-in parts, and from the back with three self-tapping screws directly into the body.


And then I realized that I would not be able to fasten the gearbox with standard bolts - there were no threads on two holes. I didn't notice it right away. After removing these parts and looking closely, I realized that the plate and tubes are one part that needs to be riveted together. Someone drilled the thread in the two holes for something, and it will not be possible to restore it on a thin plate. Threaded rivets will interfere with the tight fit of the plate. So I installed two studs from bolts. By the way, the photo shows a metal elastic gasket under the gearbox gear, which is not specified in the ETK. It is important not to lose it.


Riveted the plate to the tubes, as it was from the factory.


Now this is one part to which the gearbox is screwed - as it should be.


In addition to the gearbox, a relay is also installed on the plate. By the way, the relay is specific.






Color marking of contacts, according to the color of the wire, is convenient, it's the first time I've seen this.


But under it there is also the usual marking of contacts.


We put the lock nut and screw the relay with a self-tapping screw.




Screw the gearbox to the plate. In my case, in the center with a standard bolt, and on the sides - with nuts to the installed studs.


The drive is assembled and ready for installation on the car.




"Custom" fastening with pins from bolts is a little inconvenient, but "we have what we have" - the main thing that holds well. By the way, I glued strips of "anti-squeak" between the tubes and the plate, as it was from the factory.


So, I screw the tubes and the plate with the gearbox to the body again.


On the left, a hose is put on the top tube - probably so that it does not rub against the body.


We fasten the plate with the gearbox with self-tapping screws.


We tuck the wiring from the gearbox to the button behind the plate.


We lead the wiring to the button through a special cutout in the plate. We connect all the connectors of the gearbox, limit switch and relay. We fasten the mass terminal with an M6 bolt to a special bracket on the body.


Now you need to lay the wiring under the torpedo, where it is connected to the wiring of the electric windows. Special clips (61 13 1 370 742) - 9 pcs.


Together with the wiring of the electric sunroof, we fix the wiring of the mirror with lamps for reading maps, and the wiring of the home-made front illumination of the interior.


Three clips in special holes on the roof.


And six clips on the front rack.


In addition to this wiring, it is necessary to lay the wiring of the on-board control system, but it will not physically fit into these clips. Therefore, as in the left threshold, the harnesses that did not fit into the standard clips were secured with ties.




We close the wiring with a rack overlay.


The sunroof electric drive and its wiring are installed - now you can cover them with the ceiling lining. Before that, you should not install the hatch mechanism, as its parts must press the edges of the cladding around the perimeter of the hatch.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_109. ETK_51_Body equipment. Roof cladding, ceiling panel, handrail (part 2)

Now about the actual installation of the ceiling covering.
So, the paneling is sewn according to the patterns from my old paneling, but with a little margin around the perimeter - just in case! ;) Especially since I'm doing it for the first time. Usually, they say that you need an assistant to pull the skin from two sides at the same time, but I managed it myself. It turned out that it is not as difficult as it seems! ;)
For installation, you need fabric glue and several thin brushes. I bought Mastek EUROFIX 122 glue - I am very satisfied with it - it hardens quickly and holds firmly. But it leaves almost no chance for a mistake - it will be problematic to peel it off... :) The fabric is lined with paralon, so I applied the glue in two layers. Half a can was enough.
You also need office binders - at least 25-30 pieces, sharp scissors and a marker.


Since I am doing this for the first time, I started with the simplest thing - covering the hatch frame. We put the frame on the fabric blank, align it, wrap the edges of the fabric, trim it if necessary, and glue it - everything is simple! :) First the middle ribs, then the front and back, then the sides. You need to make two cuts at the corners - it is more convenient to glue the outer corners.


Now you can rivet the pulls of the drainage bar - I wrote about it earlier.


It is important not to confuse the left and right rods and install them correctly. Exactly:




The covering of the hatch frame is ready for installation. But it will be installed together with the hatch mechanism.


Finally, we begin to install the ceiling lining. We insert the wire arches into the cladding, and install the front arch into the rubber tips.




We "hang" the paneling and align it in the center of the cabin.


On the spot, we make two slits in the cladding opposite the metal brackets. We put the cladding on the brackets together with the arch, and press the brackets to the body.




The back arch consists of two parts - the arch and the tip.


Why this is done - I do not really understand. It would probably be easier to just make an arc, like the front one.
On one side, insert the arc into the tip.


On the other hand, we put the metal tip on the arc and insert it into the rubber tip.


We align the arc so that it falls into the groove on the noise insulation, we align the paneling in the center of the cabin.


We stretch the cladding over the roof, level it along the perimeter, and fasten it with binders.




We start gluing with the rear glass - the top and sides.


Then the rear door - on one side we fix the paneling with binders, and on the other side we stretch, cut and glue, pressing with binders.




The glue hardens quite quickly, so after 5-7 minutes, the binders can be removed and the paneling can be pressed with a sealant.


Now, on the opposite side, we pull, cut and glue, pressing with binders.


Next, we pull the back part of the hatch. It is more difficult to glue the inner corners than the outer corners on the lid lining - gaps remain between the cuts. Therefore, so that the yellow noise insulation was not visible, I glued black anti-squeak strips to the corners. By the way, several very large binders are needed to fix the cladding at these corners.


We pull and glue. In such places, the binders must be removed quickly, or they should not be used at all - so that they do not leave traces on the visible surface of the fabric.


Now we tighten the paneling on the front doors, similarly to the rear doors.


Then we glue on the top of the windshield. After that, we tighten the sides of the hatch and its corners. The corners are the most difficult part - you need to pull them so as to close the visible part, and at the same time not tear the fabric along its cut. Very neatly.


Done!


Little things remained. We cut off the remains on the back and windshield.




We install everything that is placed on top of the cladding. The main thing here is not to miss a slot! :)
We screw the front handrail.


We fasten the rear handrails and install the interior light shades. It is better to make the slots H-shaped. Having previously checked a hundred times! :)


Fasten the rear seat belts.


We install hooks for sun blinds. It is better to make the slots H-shaped. Having previously checked a hundred times! :)


The rear shelf is back in place, the curtain now rises.




The last cut is for the salon mirror, but it is not so critical here - it is closed by the front lining of the ceiling.


By the way, the cover can be installed only after the installation and adjustment of the drive mechanism and hatch cables, so it has not been installed yet.

In general, in my opinion, it turned out quite well. Especially for the first time! :)




Together with the covering of the cover - just put it on top for now.


So, the ceiling paneling is installed. Now you can install the hatch mechanism and the windshield and rear glass. Next time I will write about the hatch.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_109. ETK_51_Body equipment. Roof cladding, ceiling panel, handrail (Part 1)

To continue installing the hatch mechanism, you must first install the ceiling lining, because it is pressed around the perimeter of the hatch by its parts.
But, of course, the drive platform and the guide tubes of the cables must be installed before the cladding is installed. Therefore, it is already in the photo, but I will write about it next time. In fact, as I already said, the hatch and the ceiling are installed together.
But now we will talk only about the ceiling lining.
Body equipment

Roof trim, headliner, handrail




Part No. 1 - front ceiling overlay (51 44 1 884 197). Available for cars without a sunroof, with a manual sunroof and with an electric sunroof. In addition, for cars with and without an on-board control system unit. There are many options for combinations.
I have a top option - for an electric sunroof, and with an on-board control system unit. In good condition, but without one side mount.


These plastic brackets are not listed in the ETK and come with the overlay. Therefore, they had to be printed on a 3D printer and glued.


I also glued the cracks in the overlay and reinforced these places with glass mesh.


Part #2 - ANTHRAZIT sunroof electric drive cover (51 44 1 864 536). Black plastic plug, only for electric sunroof. In mine, someone glued an additional lamp shade.




It wasn't bad, but I replaced this plug with the third salon lamp - it's perfect. I will show after installation.

Part #3 - shield (51 44 1 900 133). Rubber insert for interior mirror. It only has one number, I bought a new one, but it physically won't fit on the thick leg of the mirror with individual card reader lights. I don't understand how to install it... except to cut it. If someone has such a mirror, is this a regular insert, or maybe some specific one?


Part #4 - additional skin, used only for E30 M3. It is not used in others.
Detail No. 5 - ceiling paneling with a hatch. There can be three colors:
GRAU - gray
QUARZ - light beige, for the Edition configuration
ANTHRAZIT - black, for M-Technic equipment
I cleaned my gray trim, but it didn't wash off, so I decided to paint it black. At first it was fine, but after it lay like that for several years, the color was partially lost, some spots appeared, and the appearance became even worse than it was before. :)


Detail No. 6 - black fabric for covering the ceiling. No longer available to order. So I picked up a similar textured black fabric and ordered a new trim based on the patterns from my old trim.


For color comparison :)


Part No. 7 - wire arc for hatch (54 12 1 904 657) - 1 pc. For cars without a hatch (51 44 1 888 167) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 8 - rear wire arch (51 44 1 916 040) - 1 pc. It consists of two parts - an arc and a tip.

Part No. 9 - tip (51 44 1 913 099) - 2 pcs. Rubber insert. For cars without a hatch - 6 pcs.
Part No. 10 - tip (51 44 1 916 081) - 2 pcs. Rubber insert. In fact, it is absolutely similar to No. 9.
Part #11 - not used.
Part No. 12 - handrail (51 16 1 888 099) - 3 pcs. Installed on passenger seats. The back ones have a hook for things. But it is not listed in ETK. Each handrail has two decorative covers, which are also not specified in the ETK.
Part No. 13 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X25 (07 11 9 907 750) - 8 pcs. For rear handrails.
Part No. 13 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X19 (07 11 9 907 790) - 4 pcs. For the front passenger handrail.
Part No. 14 - gasket (51 16 1 807 239) - 2 pcs. Black thin spacers for the front passenger handrail.
Part No. 14 - gasket (51 16 1 911 179) - 4 pcs. White thick spacers for rear handrails.
Part No. 15 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X28 (07 11 9 907 931) - 2 pcs. For fixing the ceiling lining (#1)
Part No. 16 - sheet nut ST3.9X28 (51 13 1 914 097) - 2 pcs. For fixing the ceiling lining (#1)

We install the spacers for the handrails - they simply snap into the holes in the body.
Black thin ones for the front handrail


The white ones are thick for the back rails. We also insert rubber inserts for wire arches at the back.


You can start installing the ceiling covering.
But there is one more addition. I wrote about the installation of sound insulation of the hatch a long time ago. So, during this time, it sagged a little, so I decided to remove it and slightly strengthen the attachment points and seal the cracks in it with polymer glue with glass mesh. I additionally glued double-sided tape around the perimeter.


I installed it - now it holds much better, and it will not sag and create extraneous sounds while driving.


Now everything is definitely ready to install the ceiling covering.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_108. ETK_54_Luke with pod.-sdv. lid and glass top. Lifting-sliding hatch cover/Hatch frame

So, I'm starting to assemble the hatch and ceiling trim. They are related to each other, so there must be a certain sequence in their assembly.
I have already written about the installation of sound insulation and drainage hoses of the hatch. I will continue about the hatch itself.
Hatch with pod.-sdv. lid and glass top

First, you need to prepare the hatch cover and its frame.
Lifting-sliding hatch cover/Hatch frame




Part #1 - cover (54 12 1 906 710) Covers very often rust in the place of attachment and along the contour under the seal. My lid is relatively well preserved. Although I bought another cover, mine turned out to be in better condition. Therefore, a part of the rib from the donor cover was simply welded between the side fasteners in my cover. The sound insulation was also preserved in normal condition - that's how I left it.


Part No. 2 - hatch perimeter seal L=2580MM (54 12 1 903 725) Either seal No. 2 or two-piece seals No. 3 and No. 4 may be installed. It is not clear what it depends on, maybe it just depends on stock availability. In my case, the seal is made of two parts.
Part No. 3 - front hatch cover seal L=930MM (54 12 8 106 928)
Part No. 4 - rear hatch cover seal L=1650MM ( 54 12 1 906 999)


The seal is simply put on the rib along the perimeter of the cover. It has a "velvet" surface, but it has almost completely worn off. You can order a new one, but it costs a lot. And even a new seal will not be airtight. And it shouldn't be - it just closes the gap between the hatch and the roof, and in any case lets water through. That is why the hatch drainage system is provided in the body. So, my seal is in normal condition, so I left it. But in addition, the place of its landing was treated with a wax sealant in order to protect the cover from corrosion in the future.
The cover is ready for installation, but will be installed, of course, after the hatch mechanism is installed.

Now we will prepare the frame of the hatch with the cladding.


Part No. 5 - hatch frame (54 12 1 906 686)
Part #6 - for some reason it is not indicated in the ETK, but apparently it is the cover of the hatch. There can be three colors:
GRAU - gray
QUARZ - light beige, for the Edition configuration
ANTHRAZIT - black, for M-Technic equipment
Detail No. 7 (No. 5+No. 6) is a ceiling frame with fabric lining.
Mine was grey, but I painted it black.


At first it was fine, but then it partially lost its color. Therefore, the skin will be new, but more on that later.
Part No. 8 - bracket (54 12 1 848 635) - 6 pcs. For attaching the frame to the hatch cover. My lid also had anti-squeak spacers on the staples, which are not listed in the ETK.

Part #9 - connecting element left (54 12 1 857 141) and right (54 12 1 857 142). For fastening the drainage bar to the frame.
Part No. 10 - hollow rivet A3X0.5X6-ST (07 11 9 949 614) - 2 pcs. No longer available to order. Replaced them with regular 3.2x6 rivets.

Part No. 11 - cracker (54 12 1 933 905) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - drain bar (54 12 1 837 094)
Part No. 13 - hollow rivet A3X0.5X4-ST (07 11 9 949 613) - 2 pcs. No longer available to order.
Slat assembly with riveted crackers (№11+№12+№13).

Part No. 14 - support bracket (54 12 1 934 933) - 2 pcs.




The support brackets are put on the bar.


In this way:


They are joined by tractions No. 9 and No. 10. But first you need to rivet them to the frame. In turn, this can be done only after installing the cladding. That's the sequence.
We install brackets with spacers in the frame.


More nuances about the frame itself. The photo shows three rubber parts that are not specified in the ETK - they come as one part together with the frame. Before painting, I removed them, then I glued them in place.
In the back part from above - a round rubber cord.




In the front and back part from the bottom - rubber linings.


So, the frame is ready to install the cladding.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_107. ETK_51_Body equipment. Side paneling of the footwell

So, only the plastic covers of the front speakers remained to be installed on the sides. Everything is very simple here, but in ETK, for some reason, two almost identical divisions are dedicated to this.
Legroom Side Trim
Legroom Side Trim




Part #1 - ANTHRAZIT front side trim left (51 43 1 942 971) and right (51 43 1 942 972). Black plastic cladding. There are different colors.
Part #2 - self-tapping screw ST4,2X16 (07 11 9 906 749) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - spacer nut ST 4.8 WEISS (63 17 1 367 868) - 2 pcs. Plastic insert nut. In my case, they are not used - metal sheet nuts are used instead.

Before 85, these covers were made of the same fabric as the carpet on the floor and were simply glued to the body. At the same time, the front speakers were placed on top of the cladding and covered with the same nets as the rear speakers. Instead of plastic spacer nuts, metal sheet nuts were used to fasten the speakers. Photo from the Internet, for example:






Since I have an original 84 car, and in the assembly I adhere to the 85 configuration, the speakers and trims are attached to metal sheet nuts, and not to plastic spacer nuts (#3). And the skins themselves are of the 1985 model - black plastic overlays that also serve as speaker grilles.


The casing is attached together with the speaker, but only on one lower front self-tapping screw.


I cleaned and glued felt noise insulation on them. We remove the door seal, install and fasten the paneling, then press it along the contour of the door with a door seal.


On the left, it is the same, but you still need to first remove the hood opening handle, install the trim, and screw the handle in place.

So, the door is completely assembled, all side panels are installed.


I'm waiting for a new ceiling, I started installing an electric sunroof.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_106. ETK_51_Body equipment. Rear door trim

The door is already taped.
We install the rear door panels.

Rear door trim




Part #1 - Rear door trim, left, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 42 1 967 179) - black houndstooth.
Part #1 - Rear door trim, right, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 42 1 967 180) - black houndstooth.

This skin was available from 85 to 87 for cars with 6-cylinder engines - it completely corresponds to my current configuration. In my opinion, the houndstooth fabric is one of the best trims for the E30. Although, there were many different options and combinations of textures and colors.

Door Lining Details




Detail No. 1, No. 2 - clip from two parts. It is more convenient and cheaper to use clips #3.
Part No. 3 - clip (51 41 1 870 718) - 10 pcs. for each back door.
Part #4 - sleeve D=11MM (51 41 1 911 964) - 1 pc. for each back door. Decorative sleeve for the lock button.
Part No. 5 - SCHWARZ cap (51 41 1 869 871) - 1 pc. for each back door. Black plug in the opening of the window regulator - used for electric window regulators. There are different colors. Plugs of different colors in ETK have different numbers, but in fact the black plug shows a number (51 41 1 869 870), which is not in ETK at all. I don't understand why so...
By the way, about plugs. I had them on the front door before, so I just put them in their place there. I used to have manual windows on the rear doors and it turned out that the cap wouldn't fit in those holes. On the left - the front cladding, on the right - the rear.


To install the plug, you need to enlarge the hole in the cladding along the contour of the small holes. Why didn't they make a plug according to the size of the factory hole? Because then it will rest against the housing of the electric drive. And so she becomes around him.




Although, apparently, this is relevant only for "cable" electric windows.
I bought a couple of plugs for the rear trim a long time ago, but as it turns out they are not the original plugs. Outwardly, they are the same, but for them you need to make even larger holes.




Therefore, I had to buy another pair of original plugs. We cut a hole and install it.






By the way, for the window regulator button, you also need to cut a rectangular hole in the panel according to the factory markings.

I already wrote that at first I glued the noise insulation from felt, but it turned out to be too thick, so I had to replace it with the original noise insulation from thin paralon.
By the way, I fixed it with staples, without glue - it's easier that way.


Rear armrest




Part #1 - rear armrest SCHWARZ left (51 42 1 916 545) and right (51 42 1 916 546) Black door handle. There are different colors.
Part #2 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X45 (07 11 9 906 771) - 2 pcs. for each back door. Armrest attachment.
Part No. 3 - spacer washer (07 11 9 931 044) - 2 pcs. for each back door.
Part No. 4 - nut (51 41 1 873 255) - 2 pcs. for each back door. Plastic insert in the door.
Part No. 5 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X16 (07 11 9 907 783) - 1 pc. for each back door.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer (51 41 1 805 353) - 1 pc. for each back door.

We attach noise insulation to the cladding. We screw the armrest to the paneling with one self-tapping screw. We insert the decorative bushing of the lock button and the window regulator plug. From the inside, we insert 10 clips into the holes in the paneling.


We snap plastic inserts No. 4 into special holes in the door. It is better to do this before sticking the film on the door. We insert the cladding into the clamp of the inner lining with a glass seal so that the lock pull comes out of the hole of the decorative insert. We pull out the connector of the window regulator button through the hole in the trim, align the trim and fasten all the clips along its perimeter. We connect the button and install it in the hole. Align and fasten the armrest with two self-tapping screws. We insert the decorative frame of the door opening handle into the grooves, and move it back as far as it will go. We screw the button onto the lock rod (will do it later after installing one interesting thing ;) ).






The same is true on the left.
The rear door panels are installed.
On the sides, it remains to install only the plastic casings of the front speakers.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_105. ETK_51_Body equipment. Front door trim

So, now you can continue to assemble the cabin.
Body equipment

Namely, the installation of door panels. The door is already taped.
We install front door panels.

Front door trim




Part #1 - Front door trim, left, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 41 1 967 155) - black houndstooth.
Part #1 - Front door trim, right, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 41 1 967 156) - black houndstooth.

This skin was available from 85 to 87 for cars with 6-cylinder engines - it completely corresponds to my current configuration. In my opinion, the houndstooth fabric is one of the best trims for the E30. Although, there were many different options and combinations of textures and colors.

There was even an option with protection of the lower part - for special cars. I don't have one - just for information.
Front door trim


This is a metal overlay that is attached on top of the cladding. No longer available for order. Photo from the Internet.




Part #1 - Protection of the lower part of the front door trim, left (51 41 1 952 005)
Part #1 - Protection of the lower part of the front door trim, right (51 41 1 952 006)

Door pocket




Part #1 - SCHWARZ door pocket, left (51 41 1 911 191) and right (51 41 1 911 192) - black. I already wrote earlier that pockets of different colors in ETK have different numbers, but in fact, on all pockets, regardless of their color, the number for black pockets is indicated. I don't understand why so...
Part #2 - clip (51 41 1 870 718) - 9 pcs. for each front door.
Dial No. 3, No. 4 - a two-part clip. It is more convenient and cheaper to use clips #2.
Part No. 5 - screw M4X12-Z3 (07 11 9 906 813) - 2 pcs. for each front door. In some cases, self-tapping screws can be used instead of screws.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer (51 41 1 805 353) - 2 pcs. for each front door.
Part No. 7 - sleeve D=11MM (51 41 1 911 964) - 1 pc. for each front door. Decorative sleeve for the lock button.
Part #8 - SCHWARZ cap (51 41 1 869 871) - 1 pc. for each front door. Black plug in the opening of the window regulator - used for electric window regulators. There are different colors.
Item #9 - SCHWARZ coin box (51 41 8 110 033) Black coin box, inserted into a pocket. There are different colors. I don't have it yet.

We attach noise insulation to the cladding. We insert the pocket into the grooves on the skin and screw it to the skin. We insert the decorative bushing of the lock button and the window regulator plug. From the inside, we insert 9 clips into the holes in the paneling.


I already wrote that at first I glued the noise insulation from felt, but it turned out to be too thick, so I had to replace it with the original noise insulation from thin paralon.


By the way, I fixed it with staples, without glue - it's easier that way.


Front armrest


Part #1 - front armrest SCHWARZ left (51 41 1 911 181) and right (51 41 1 911 182) Black door handle. There are different colors.

Armrest parts




Part No. 1 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X45 (07 11 9 906 771) - 2 pcs. for each front door. The lower attachment of the armrest.
Part #2 - spacer washer (07 11 9 936 439) - 2 pcs. for each front door.
Part No. 3 - nut (51 41 1 873 255) - 3 pcs. for each front door. Plastic insert in the door.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X25 (07 11 9 907 750) - 1 pc. for each front door. Upper fastening of the armrest.
Part No. 5 - SCHWARZ pad (51 41 1 903 734) - 1 pc. only on the front passenger door. Black plug in the armrest. There are different colors.

We snap plastic inserts No. 3 into special holes in the door. It is better to do this before sticking the film on the door. We insert the cladding into the clamp of the inner lining with a glass seal so that the lock pull comes out of the hole of the decorative insert. We align the paneling and fasten all the clips along its perimeter. We insert the armrest into the groove on the pocket, and move it back so that in its upper part it goes behind the door body with its hook. We fasten the armrest with three self-tapping screws, and insert the plug on the right, and the mirror adjustment button on the left. We insert the decorative frame of the door opening handle into the grooves, and move it back as far as it will go. We screw the button onto the lock rod.






The same is true on the left.
We insert a coin into the left (or right) pocket, if there is one;)
The front door panels have been installed. Let's go to the rear ones.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_104. ETK_65_Details of the audio system (part 2)

In the sections on wiring, I already wrote about the SOUND SYSTEM wiring - it is completely laid together with other wiring, all its connectors are placed in their places. So, in the second part, I will continue about the installation and connection of its components.

Audio system details




Item No. 1 - SOUND SYSTEM audio system. I don't have it in the "standard" configuration, but with some changes in acoustics.
Detail #2 - fader regulator. It was used until 1989 for earlier radio models. In my case, the wiring is newer, from the Turing, so it is not used.
Detail No. 3 - a transition wire, for different models of radios - I already wrote about it in previous entries.
Part #4 - SOUND SYSTEM wiring harness. In my case it is from Turing, so it has some differences.
Detail #5 - wiring harness for tweeters. It is included in the wiring harness of the "electric package" - I wrote about it in the appropriate section. But you can also buy it separately (61 12 1 375 798) together with the housing of the door wiring connector.
Detail #6, #7 - in my case, these are self-made adapters for parallel connection of tweeters to the contacts of the front speakers.

Part #8 - front speaker, 2 pcs. In my case, these are not standard SOUND SYSTEM speakers for the E30, but speakers with double contacts from the E38. to connect to them the "hands-free" phone system (4Ω/4Ω 40W)

Part #9 - self-tapping screws ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 907 789) for fastening the rear speakers
Part No. 10 - self-tapping screws ST4.2X16 (07 11 9 906 749) for fastening the front speakers
Part #11 - spacer nut ST 4.8 WEISS (63 17 1 367 868) for fastening the front speakers. Apparently, early machines did not use plastic spacer nuts, but metal spacers. At least mine does, which is why I used metal shims.
Part #12 tweeter SOUND SYSTEM 8 Ohm left (65 13 1 377 687)
Part #13 tweeter SOUND SYSTEM 8 Ohm right (65 13 1 377 688)
Part No. 14 - rack (65 11 1 370 841). Support bracket for the radio, installed on the heater body.
Detail No. 15 - felt strip 40X70X0.8MM (65 77 1 377 052). I used a strip of rubber noise insulation.
Detail No. 16...No. 19 - SOUND SYSTEM rear speaker. I still don't have the original SOUND SYSTEM rear speakers, so I left my Clarion speakers temporarily. But since the wiring for the E30 Touring has specific connectors for the rear speakers, we had to make adapters/extensions for them. Speakers are attached through spacers, long screws with nuts.

Part No. 20 - amplifier (65 12 1 375 983)

Part #21 - bracket (65 12 1 380 166) I couldn't find the original separately, so I ordered an exact copy from a teammate. Then electroplating - and as a result, the bracket is no worse than the original one.

Part No. 22 - sheet nut (07 12 9 925 737) - 3 pcs. For mounting the amplifier.
Part No. 23 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 1 pc. For mounting the amplifier.

I will install the tape recorder together with the torpedo, but now we are only installing the acoustics.
I started with the front speakers. As I already said, my body does not have holes for plastic pawns, but there are places for metal sheet nuts. We install four of them on each side. In the niche of the speaker we find blue and white one-pin connectors that go to the door to the tweeters. We connect the corresponding blue wiring connector to the blue one, and we connect the adapter to the white one. We connect "+" to the front speaker and tweeter to the two contacts of the adapter. We connect the "-" contact of the wiring to the corresponding contact of the speaker. The front speaker and tweeter are connected in parallel.
We connect the corresponding terminals of the "hands-free" phone wiring to the second pair of contacts of the speaker.


We put the wiring in the niche, fix it with a clamp and screw the speaker with self-tapping screws. We tighten the front lower self-tapping screw already after installing the plastic overlays. Similarly on the left.


Now we install tweeters - instead of mirror caps. But here I had a bad luck! ) Apparently, one contact has already broken from old age...


I already thought that I would have to replace the tweeters with some modern ones, but a teammate suggested restoring them. So I sent them to him and waited for the result. And the result exceeded my expectations! ) In addition to the restored contacts, the capacitors were replaced, new Paralon gaskets under the mesh, the mounting pins were restored on a 3D printer, the speakers and the case were glued. I am very grateful to Dima for this.


To install the tweeters, it was necessary to remove the inner cover with a glass seal. The wiring had to be pulled a little more to the outside so that it was convenient to connect it. We connect the corresponding terminals, insert the pins into the corresponding plastic latches on the door, and press them tightly so that the metal bracket snaps into place.


We install the inner cover with a glass seal, additionally pressing it to the tweeter body. Similarly on the left.


The front speakers are installed and connected.

The rear speakers are attached to the rear shelf. I have a shelf with factory oval cut-outs for SOUND SYSTEM speakers and insert plates to mount them.




It can even be seen from the traces that such speakers were once installed there... but, unfortunately, they did not reach me... Therefore, for now, I will install the usual Clarion speakers, with which I once bought this shelf. Fortunately, they were installed through spacers, so the shelf remained undamaged except for the four holes for mounting these speakers. But this is not critical either - they will be covered by SOUND SYSTEM speaker housings. It remains only to find them at an adequate price! ;)
Well, for now - "we have what we have!" (with)


We connect the adapters/extenders to the wiring and bring them out under the shelf.




We connect the speakers to the corresponding terminals and install the shelf.


I already said that I have certain plans to "upgrade" the regiment. This also applies to acoustics - maybe it will be SOUND SYSTEM acoustics, or maybe it will be an analogue of the top SOUNDBOARD system...


...but it's not accurate! :)

So, all the acoustics are installed and connected. It remains to install and connect the amplifier. To do this, I had to remove the electric antenna, because it was in the way.
We screw the bracket to the amplifier with a bolt. We screw the rear lamp control unit (if available) to the bracket with self-tapping screws, and connect their connectors.




We insert the amplifier into the niche of the rear wing and screw the bracket with self-tapping screws to the place of installation of the control unit of the rear lights.




On the opposite side, the amplifier should be attached with another self-tapping screw, but for some reason there is no hole for it on my body. I don't know why - maybe it wasn't on early cars. I wanted to drill a hole, but there is no access there - the hinge bracket of the trunk lid is in the way - it will be the same without this fastener - it holds up well anyway.
We install the electric antenna in place.




Finally, everything is installed in the trunk (except for the spare wheel), so you can also install the left panel. I wrote about this much earlier, but I will add it here.
We install the skin, put the jack, the wheel stop in place, insert the clip for the wheel wrench into the skin, and fix it there.


Let me remind you - on my body there is an earlier fastening of the key - on the wall of the left pocket. Well, now I can fix even two wheel wrenches! :) I also left those clips, although it is more convenient, as in the photo - it was moved there for a reason.


Everything is ready on the left.


The only thing missing on the right was a new battery. Now it is also in its place - EXIDE Premium 72 Ah




The first aid kit, the emergency stop sign and the lantern are also already in place.






So, the acoustics are installed, everything is assembled in the trunk - we return to the assembly of the interior.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_103. ETK_65_Details of the stereo system

Let's continue about "music".

Stereo system details


Previously, my audio wiring was semi-homemade, from different parts of the original wiring :) The front part is from some newer wiring, to which additional contacts for tweeters are added, the power harness is combined with it into a 17-pin connector, and the back the part is original e30. Such a "custom", but it still worked normally. :)


Although, by default, the wiring of the E30 stereo system should look a little different - I bought it with the speaker terminals cut off - maybe someday I will restore it completely. I will not install it, so I will write about it briefly - just for information.


Detail No. 1 - radio power supply wiring from connector C302

Detail #2 - wiring for the simplest mono radios. I don't have one.
Part No. 3 is a fader regulator, it comes with different contacts, depending on the year of manufacture. On the later wiring, it is missing, as well as mine. Although, I have the regulator button.
Detail No. 4 - a transition wire, different for each radio model - I wrote about them last time.
Detail No. 5 - the front part of the wiring
Detail No. 6 - the rear part of the wiring

Part No. 7 - radio fuse
Detail No. 8 - a power adapter wire, different for each radio model - I wrote about them last time.
Part #9 - speaker 4 OHM 15/20W or 8 OHM/18/20W - 4 pcs.
Detail No. 10 - wiring for automatic volume control (pictured above)

1- radio receiver connector
2 - green connector of the instrument panel
Photo from the Internet - may be in additional insulation.


Part No. 11 - the green connector of the instrument panel (in the photo above). It is installed on special contacts in the instrument panel.
Detail No. 12 - decorative mesh of the speaker. On early cars, all four speakers were installed, and after 1985, only the rear ones.
Details No. 13...17 - speaker mounting details.
Detail No. 18 - tweeter, installed instead of mirror caps, as an additional option to the stereo system.

And I will install the top audio system E30 - SOUND SYSTEM. I will write about this next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_102. ETK_65_Radio receiver interference suppression system.

Already decided to finish the ETK section Audio, navigation, information systems

Subsection Radio Interference Suppression System


All details from this subsection are in the corresponding sections on the electrical equipment of the engine. Some of them I have already installed and some will be installed later. So now just a record for general information. All photos of details are from the Internet.

Part No. 1 - kit for suppressing obstacles (65 31 1 286 070). No longer available to order. It includes the "ground" busbars of the generator, and "ground" buses #3.


Part No. 2 - capacitor for suppression of generator interference (12 31 1 356 564). If you order it under BOSCH number 0290800036, its price will be much lower. I will write about it in the generator section.


Part No. 3 - hood "ground" bus (65 31 1 286 068) Already installed with the hood.




Part No. 3 - tire "ground" of the valve cover (65 31 1 286 069). Will be installed together with the motor.

Parts #4, #6 and #7 are some kind of package - "special protection against interference".

Part #4 - 0.47MF interference suppression capacitor (65 31 1 357 878). Judging by the photo, this is an analogue of part #2 for the generator.


Item No. 5 is not used.
Part No. 6 - filter for suppressing interference (65 31 9 055 974). No longer available to order. I do not know where it is installed, to what, and how it is connected. I would be grateful for this information.


Part No. 7 - tire "mass" 20X400MM (65 31 9 055 973). Maybe it's just a "repair" bus, without terminals.


A useful photo from the Internet - all the "mass" tires:


Assembly_102. ETK_65_Transitional wire.

Next subsection Adapter lead




Many different radio models were available as standard for the E30. But all these radios are divided into two types - earlier models with separate audio connectors of the old type, and later models with a new 17-pin audio connector. Accordingly, the factory audio wiring was also of two types, depending on these connectors. In order to make it possible to install any stock radio in the car, without replacing the entire audio wiring, special adapters were developed for different models of radios. There are a lot of them, with different numbers, most of them are no longer available for ordering. Therefore, I will write only about my case. I have audio wiring with a 17-pin connector, and the radios are of both types. Therefore, I need an adapter to change from a 17-pin connector to separate audio connectors.
Part No. 5 - the transition wire of the stereo system (65 12 8 350 189). I made it myself.


In principle, any of these adapters is quite easy to make yourself, having the necessary plugs and their expansion.


1 - 17-pin connector for audio wiring
2 - rear speaker connector
3 - front speaker connector
4 - radio power connector from the ignition (+12V and "ground")
5 - connector for constant power supply of the radio (+12V)
6 - connector for the backlight of the radio
7 - connector for power management of the electric antenna and amplifier
8 - connector for automatic volume control of the radio, depending on the speed of movement

For example, the pinout of my adapter:

[The_Glory]

Assembly_101. ETK_65_Radio receiver

While the "technological pause" on the assembly continues, I will write about my modest collection of original radio receivers and tape recorders! ;)

So, the ETK section Audio, navigation, information systems

Radio receiver




Detail #1 - panel for models 316 and 318, with the central location of the radio receiver.
Detail No. 2 - a panel for other models, with a radio receiver shifted to the left, and a place for a clock or on-board computer, on the right.
Part No. 3 - radio receiver overlay (64 11 1 368 515) It is installed instead of the radio receiver, if it is not included in the car's configuration.
Part No. 4 - plug (64 11 1 368 498) It is installed instead of buttons, if they are not included in the car's configuration.
Details No. 5...No. 16, No. 18 - details of the simplest models of radio receivers and tape recorders. I don't have any of them yet...
Part No. 17 - frame (65 12 1 375 737). For fastening the radio receiver in the panel. But some radio models are installed without this frame.


Part No. 19 - felt strip (65 77 1 377 052) Soft gasket for the rear support of the radio receiver.
Part #20 - extension (65 11 1 372 547) Apparently, this is the same rear support of the radio receiver.




Part No. 21 - rack (65 11 1 370 841) A bracket installed on the heater body. A soft gasket No. 19 is glued to it and an extension No. 20 rests on it.
Parts #22, #23 - nut and washer for the extension. But in fact they are not used.

Radio receiver




Section on installation of the simplest models of radio receivers. I don't have them, only a few parts that are used for them.
Part #1 - frame (65 12 1 375 737). For fastening the radio receiver in the panel. But some radio models are installed without this frame.
Part #3 - antenna adapter. I already wrote about them in the section about the antenna.
Part No. 8, No. 9 - transition wire. There are many types of them for different models of radios, I will write about them later.


Now about those models of radio receivers that I already have. I'm collecting them, maybe someday I'll find the rest of the models ;) Although there are a lot of them in ETK with different numbers, in different sections... it's not very clear, so I'll just write as a matter of fact.

Bavaria Mono Digital radio


Item #3 - Bavaria Digital II radio receiver




Bavaria C radio


Detail #1 - BMW Reverse radio




Bavaria C radio


Detail #3 - Bavaria C Electronic radio




Bavaria C Business radio


Detail #1 - Bavaria C Business radio




Detail #2 - Bavaria C Business RDS radio




My entire collection.


I will install, most likely, one of the last three. Or change all in turn :)

For a complete collection, you still need to find something from the simplest models.


Top cassette Becker Mexico


And Bavaria Electronic CD CD players


Or Bavaria Electronic CD II


There is still an idea to install a CD charger, although it was not available as standard for the E30. But apparently, it was installed as an aftermarket or dealer retrofit. But this is in the long run! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_100. ETK_51_Body equipment. Shelf behind the back seat

Due to technical reasons, the installation of door panels is slightly delayed.
So for now, I decided to install the rear shelf.
Shelf behind the rear seat




Detail #1 - shelf behind the back seat. There were many different types, with different ETK numbers, depending on the year of manufacture, type of seat belts, audio speakers, curtains, brake lights and interior color. But there are three main types - I collected them all :)


Type 1 - up to the year 85 - a flat shelf, under the seat belts of the early type.
Type 2 - 85-87 years - flat shelf, under late-type safety belts
Type 3 - after 87 - shelf with stamping, for late-type seat belts

Type 2 and Type 3 are interchangeable with each other, but not interchangeable with Type 1, due to different seat belt designs. I will write about this later.

Part #2 - bracket (51 46 1 915 535) - 1 pc. For fixing the shelf to the body.
Part No. 3 - outlet nozzle - 4 pcs. Grilles are different for type 1 and types 2 and 3.
Part No. 4 and No. 5 - fasteners for the middle seat belt before 84.
Part #6 and #7 - fasteners for the middle seat belt after 84. On shelf type 1, it is installed on the left, and on shelves of type 2 and 3 - on the right.


Part #8 is an attachment to the shelf, used only for the E30 M3. Photo from the Internet.


The shelf comes complete with noise insulation. We insert clip #2 and screw fasteners #6 and #7 for the middle belt.


We insert grids No. 3. Also pictured are the left and right seat belt covers.


The shelf is ready for installation. But there is also a sun shade in the photo. This is an additional option for the shelf. It is because of it that I install a type 3 shelf, not a type 1, as it should be for an 85.

So,

Assembly_100. ETK_51_Body equipment. Shelf/Sunshade

Shelf/Sunblind




Detail #1 - shelf behind the back seat. The shelf with a built-in blind was type 1 (up to 85 year), or type 3 (after 85 years). Photo from the Internet:


Detail No. 2 - sun shade. For type 1 and 3, it was installed in a special slot in the shelf. On the type 2 shelf, it could simply be screwed from above.


Part No. 3 - left hook (51 46 1 917 381) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - right hook (51 46 1 917 382) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bracket (51 46 1 905 393) - 2 pcs. Corresponding part for hooks #3 and #4. Installed in the body.


Curtains for shelf type 1 and type 3 are not interchangeable. They have completely different hooks and corresponding parts for them. For curtain type 1 (before 85), hooks (51 46 1 905 393) were screwed with a self-tapping screw above the rear glass.


And for type 3, above the rear glass, in special holes, corresponding parts for hooks (51 46 1 905 393) were installed.


For comparison, both types of hooks are completely different parts installed above the rear glass.


A shelf with a curtain is ready for installation.




In the photo, the rear speakers are already installed - I will write about them later. There is also a third brake light in the photo. This is another additional option for the back shelf. It was available mainly for the US market.

Assembly_100. ETK_63_Lighting devices. Third brake light

Let's return to the ETK section
Lighting devices

Third stop lamp




Part No. 1 - brake light (63 25 1 385 187)
Part #2 - P21W lamp holder (63 21 8 355 883)

The lanterns were also of two different types. For Type 1 and 2 shelves, the early lamp was mounted on top of the shelf, and for the US market Type 3 shelf, the late lamp was built into the shelf itself, between the grilles. Photo from the Internet.


I have an earlier lantern.
The back cover of the lantern matched the color of the shelf. I also have it gray.


We screw the lamp bracket to the shelf, and remove the wiring connector that I added to the standard wiring. We insert the lamp cartridge block with the reed switch of the lamp control into the lamp housing.


We snap the lantern onto the bracket and install the back cover so that it does not interfere with the sun shade.
We install the rear shelf in the grooves under the glass and fix it with a clip. The lamp should firmly rest on the glass with its rubber stops at the corners.


We insert the buckle of the middle belt into its fastening on the shelf.


But there is a nuance with the side belts - in this case, they are clamped by a shelf, and will perform only a decorative function, since, as I said earlier - due to their different construction, shelves of type 1 and type 3 are not interchangeable!


In my case, there should be a type 1 shelf with a curtain. But, at one time, I found a shelf with a type 3 curtain. I didn't have back straps at all then, so then I installed it without problems.

So, I installed the shelf now temporarily.
First, it will need to be removed to install the ceiling trim and rear glass. After that, I will also install the corresponding parts for the hooks.
Secondly, I have some plans for her "upgrade" in the future. I already wrote earlier that for type 1 and type 2 shelves, there are factory overhead electric sun blinds that are screwed on top of the shelf. It's not easy to find them, although there is a new one on sale now, but the price of $1000 does not suit me :) And they don't look very good either... Also, I want to install an electric curtain from later BMW models in the shelf. And for this, you need a shelf of type 3 - there is more space under it for the location of the electric drive. I have already installed the wiring and the button - I wrote about it recently. I will also redo the holes for the seat belts, as in type 1, so that they are functional. In addition, there are plans for "music". Of course, then the color of the shelf will be black. Or maybe - blue? ;) For "training", I bought another shelf with a curtain, but I will deal with this after the car is completely assembled. And for now - we have what we have! (c)

[The_Glory]

Collection_99. ETK_51_Body equipment. Upholstery per meter

So, you can continue to assemble the cabin. Namely - the installation of door linings. I'll start with noise isolation. These materials are ordered by linear meters according to ETK.

Upholstery by the meter


There are many numbers in one position, so I will write briefly, factually.
Detail No. 1 - sound insulation, can be width B=1450MM (51 95 8 101 124) or B=1050MM (51 95 8 103 058). Apparently it's for the front and back doors, respectively. Not available to order. It is installed on the inner side of the door panels. There are two types - paralon on a soft gray base, or on a harder gray base. The first one is of better quality, the paralon on it is preserved in good condition. But more often there is a second one, on which the paralon has almost completely crumbled from old age and only the base itself remains.


Detail No. 1 - noise-insulating coating 1160X700MM ( 51 48 8 165 271) This is a sheet of vibration insulation glued to the door. It is in good condition on all my doors, so I left it as it is.


Detail #1 - artificial leather upholstery. In my case, these are black SCHWARZ door trims (51 92 1 932 925). My front fairings had holes cut out for the speakers, so I bought another whole set in the same color a long time ago. Cleaned both.


Part No. 2 - weight film B=1520MM (51 95 1 924 961). It is available to order, but I consider the price of 55 Euros per meter inappropriate. That's why I bought the same dense film in a hardware store for 2 euros per meter, and double-sided tape! :) First, I cut out the template from sound insulation.




By the way, the film has two layers, so the patterns come out on two doors at once - convenient.


But after trying the film on the door, it became clear that it is too small - you need to cut along the contour of the cladding, and not along the contour of the sound insulation. The second attempt is what is needed..


Glue double-sided tape along the perimeter and edges of the door.


But stick the film on the door so as to close all the openings.




The door is ready for installation of cladding.
By the way, I previously installed gaps on all doors and locks. Quite painstaking work that requires a lot of time and patience! And you definitely need an assistant. I didn't take photos - everything is as per TIS. We start with the rear doors - we level them along the rear wings, using factory gaskets under the hinges with a thickness of 0.5 mm and 1 mm. Then we level the front doors with the back doors. Then we align the front fenders and hood along the front doors. Although, I will display the front fenders and the hood after the engine is installed. It is better to unscrew the brackets of the door locks from the body, and install them after the doors are fully exposed. Then simply adjust the lock. By the way, I did not use the factory technological holes in the body opposite the nuts of the door hinges for their adjustment - somehow it is very inconvenient to do so.

Now soundproofing. On my skins, except for two, it all fell off. That's why I picked up a bunch of these gray base sheets, cleaned them and decided to glue them instead of paralon - felt. The same as under the rear seat, on the middle pillars and under the torpedo. I thought it would be better that way... I bought sheets of felt and started cutting and gluing.


Factory paralon on the left, felt on the right.



It turned out not bad looking.


Glued with polyurethane glue - it holds well.


But not everything turned out so well. The felt is much thicker than the factory paralon, so the trim did not click well on the clips, and the door handle frame did not fit at all. It was necessary to try it on at once, instead of gluing all four skins...
Well, what are you going to do - peel off that felt from the skins. I bought the thinnest paralon of 5mm in a hardware store and started cutting it.


Again, it looked good.


But this time I decided to try on one skin immediately :) The difference in the thickness of the factory and new paralon.


And what do you think? The clips clicked, but the frame of the door handle still does not fit! I struggled all evening, broke two doorknobs in the process, and it won't hold! Fiasco! I wanted the best, but it turned out - as always... :) Time and money wasted...
I spat at this idea and went to look for a whole factory soundproofing at flea markets. Found it, cleaned it. The whole set.


In the photo, one of the front ones is glued, but then I found a whole one.


By the way, while I was looking, I found out that door sound insulation is available not only on a gray basis, but also on white or black. Later it will be necessary to find a set for my blue skins.
Now, finally, you can install the door trim.