E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[Mazi!]

i really enjoy reading and watching you build this car! lots of knowledge that I myself have also been able to use from your thread.

Can't wait to see more posts from you!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_75. ETK_62_Board computer

So, as promised, we will talk about the on-board computer.
In ETK, this section is in the general section Instruments
BC sets are slightly different for cars before restyling and after restyling. The main differences are in the wiring and location of the siren.
I have a combined option :) Interior wiring before restyling, and underhood wiring after restyling. Moreover, this kit was removed from one car in the USA. Perhaps this is a feature of the configuration for this market, because on European cars, these wirings are not very compatible, without additional modifications. And I connected everything without problems.
On-board computer

So, I remind you that I already have a factory alarm system installed. In this case, the BC is an "appendix" to it - they share the underhood part of the wiring and the ECU. What's more, the signaling ECU is also suitable for BC, but the BC ECU is not suitable for signaling. Therefore, in this topic I will describe only the installation of on-board computer parts that do not relate to signaling (the left part of the diagram):


On-board computer:


The photo is missing several parts that are already installed on the car - interior wiring (No. 13), underhood wiring (No. 14). The ECU (#7), steering wheel switch (#12), and siren (#20...#25) are also not shown.

Part #1 - on-board computer unit (65 81 1 374 917) - for the US market, with inscriptions in English.






Part #2 - encoder (65 81 1 373 698) - is mainly responsible for the accuracy of fuel consumption indicators.

According to the table - this is 3-8 Typ - for 325e. Not exactly what you need for a 325i, but okay :)


The photo also shows the timer switch for controlling the autonomous heater (Webasto).

Part No. 3 - button illumination lamp 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - screen illumination unit (65 81 1 375 461) - white case with two soldered lamps. To replace the lamps, the BC is simply pulled out of the housing.


Part No. 5 - plug (65 81 1 374 938)
Part #6 - screw M3X10 (07 11 9 907 605) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 7 - signaling ECU (65 75 1 386 605) - it is also used for BC. In the version without alarm, the ECU (65 81 1 373 726) is used - without a connector for the cable of the magnetic lock.
Part No. 8 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X25-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 973) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - plastic nut (61 13 1 372 722) - 1 pc. Parts No. 8 and No. 9 for attaching the ECU to the body. But for some reason I had no holes or pins there at all. Perhaps it depends on the year of manufacture of the car. So, I made a mount for the restyling bracket, and attached the ECU to it with two self-tapping screws (#8).
Part #10 - gong (65 81 1 376 047) - for the US market, with two connectors. One for BC, the other for the driver's seat belt warning light. European machines have only one connector for BC.


Part No. 11 - bracket (62 13 1 373 572) - gong holder, which is placed in the steering panel.


Part No. 12 - turn signal switch (61 31 1 375 186) - for BC has an additional button on the end, which cyclically duplicates the pressing of buttons on the BC


Part No. 13 - interior wiring of the on-board computer (61 12 1 373 727). In the photo, it is marked with the letter A.
Part No. 14 - underhood wiring of the on-board computer (61 12 1 373 729), similar to the alarm system. In the photo, it is marked with the letter B.


Connection of two wires.


A1 - connector for underhood wiring No. 14 B1
A2 - connector for underhood wiring #14 B2
A3 - connector to the signaling ECU (or BC)
A4 - gong connector
A5 - connector to the turn signal switch
A6 - connector to the yellow connector C3 of the instrument panel
A7 - connector to the on-board computer unit
A8 - connector for an autonomous heater (Webasto)
A9, A10 - corresponding connectors for the Motronic engine wiring ECU

B1 - connector for wiring #13 A1
B2 - connector for wiring #13 A2
B3 - connector to the signaling ECU (or BC)
B4 - connector C302 pin H
B5 - "mass" G200 under the steering column
B6 - connector for alarm wiring
B7 - connector to the end of the hood
B8 - connector to the external temperature sensor
B9.1, B9.2 - siren connector

Part No. 15 - external temperature sensor (65 81 1 385 337). In my case, the sensor is different - restyling. Therefore, the details of its fastening No. 16...No. 19 and No. 22, No. 24 are not used. The fastening described above, in the section on signaling, is used.
All details of the siren and its fastening are also similar to the alarm system.
Part No. 20 - sound signal with two mounting plates (61 33 1 367 358) - 1 pc. It is installed near the fuse block. After restyling, it is installed behind the left fog lamp. I have exactly such an option.
Part No. 21 - a plastic (65 81 1 373 714) or metal (65 75 1 385 907) shield after restyling.
Part No. 23 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X16-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. For attaching a sound signal. Perhaps this is a mistake, or it is for restyling. My bracket (No. 25) has a bolt-on attachment.
Part #25 - horn bracket (61 33 1 380 019), or (65 75 1 385 783) after restyling.




So, we start installing the on-board computer.
Since the underhood part is similar to the alarm system, I will simply repeat everything:

We pass wiring No. 14 through a special hole in the rubber insert of the motor shield.


We lead the wiring to the fuse block and lay it along the left wing behind the left fog lamp. From the bottom of the platform, we screw the sound signal into the provided holes. Pre-connect connectors B9.1 and B9.2 to it, and fix the wire with a clip.




The sound signal is closed by a protective shield, which is attached to a pin on the spar with a plastic nut and two bolts in the holes in the platform.


The connector of the external temperature sensor B8 with the sensor is brought out under the left fog lamp and we fix the wire to the shield with a clip.


By default, it is inserted into a special hole in the front spoiler (or into the air duct after restyling). But I will have a BBS apron installed instead of the standard spoiler, which does not have this hole. Therefore, I will then look around the place, how it is better to fix it there.
Places of attachment of the sound signal and shield on the site - top view:


Near the fuse block, connect the terminal of the hood to connector B7. The end of the hood is used only for signaling. When installing the on-board computer separately, it is not used. With the help of the bracket, we fix the terminal on the left bracket of the hood locks.


We fasten the bracket with the terminal.


The stop is set. This is everything under the hood.


Let's go to the salon.
We connect the alarm wiring connector, magnetic lock cable connector, A3 wiring connector #13, B3 wiring connector #14 to the alarm ECU. We connect the black connector B6 of wiring No. 14 and the black connector of the alarm wiring.
Connector B4 of wiring No. 14 is connected to the connector of additional options C302 on pin H.





We fasten the ECU block with two self-tapping screws to the plastic bracket installed behind the instrument panel.
We fasten the "mass" terminal B5 of wiring No. 14 at point G200 under the steering column.


We connect the corresponding wiring connectors #13 and #14 - A1 with B1, and A2 with B2.

The photo also shows the gong and turn signal connectors.
We connect the gong to connector A4.


We install the turn switch


But we connect the blue A5 connector to it.


The turn signal switch for the US market does not have a connector for parking marker lights - this option was not available in the US. Therefore, this white 2-pin connector of the main wiring remained unused. Maybe later I will find a European turn signal switch for BC, then I will also connect the parking marker lights.

Connect the yellow connector A6 to the yellow connector C3 of the instrument panel when it is installed.
We screw the BC block directly to the frame - without an adapter, which is used only for the clock.


In the assembly, we install the frame in the torpedo. It is probably almost impossible to fix the BC unit without removing the entire frame.


We lay the wiring No. 13 on the right, connect the green connector A7 to the unit of the on-board computer.
The white small connector A8 is the connector for the autonomous heater (Webasto). I don't have it yet, so it remains inactive.
Connectors A9 and A10 are connected in a gap to the corresponding connectors of the Motronic ECU of the motor wiring. I haven't installed the motor wiring yet, so I will do that later.


These connectors are used to disconnect power to the Motronic ECU using the on-board computer's CODE function. If for some reason you will not have wiring #13 connected to wiring #14 (A1 from B1, and A2 from B2.), or there will be no underhood wiring at all, then these connectors do not need to be connected - otherwise the engine will not start.

That's it for installing the on-board computer.

[The_Glory]

Collection_74. ETK_65_Security alarm system

The next option, quite rare for the E30, is a standard alarm system.
In ETK, this unit is in the general section Audio, navigation, information systems
More modern alarm systems with remote control from the remote control were already available on cars of the last years of production.
But I have the earliest version of it, with a magnetic key - S301 Anti-theft alarm.
Security alarm system
I will say in advance that I also plan to install a standard immobilizer - S900 Recognized immobilizer by AZT/TÜV. But this will probably be the last thing.
Therefore, the alarm system can be installed separately or together with the on-board computer - they have a common part of the wiring under the hood and the ECU. What's more, the signaling ECU is also suitable for BC, but the BC ECU is not suitable for signaling. Therefore, in this topic I will partially describe the installation of the on-board computer, at least its wiring. And later there will be a separate entry about him.


Standard alarm set (#1):


The photo is missing several parts that are already installed on the car - the main wiring (#13), diode wiring (#9). Also, the wiring of BC (#15) is not shown - there will be a separate entry about it later.

Part #2 - signaling ECU (65 75 1 386 605) - it is also used for BC.
Part No. 3 - plastic nut (61 13 1 372 722) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X25-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 973) - 1 pc. Parts #3 and #4 for attaching the ECU to the body. But for some reason I had no holes or pins there at all. Perhaps it depends on the year of manufacture of the car. So, I made a mount for the restyling bracket, and attached the ECU to it with two self-tapping screws (#4).
Part No. 5 - magnetic lock with locking bracket (65 75 1 368 904) - 1 pc. Installed on the driver's door.
Part No. 6 - cover of the lock with an LED (65 75 1 368 903) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - rubber gasket (65 75 1 368 912) - 1 pc.
Part #8 - magnetic key (65 75 1 380 684) - comes in two types, but the principle of operation and its coding are similar.


Part No. 9 - control lamp (65 75 1 369 412) - a duplicate LED, which is placed under the rear license plate.


I have already mentioned it before, when installing the overlay under the number. By the way, for some reason there is no place for its installation in the overlay - I had to mark and drill it myself.


Part No. 10 - sound signal with two mounting plates (61 33 1 367 358) - 1 pc. It is installed near the fuse block. After restyling, it is installed behind the left fog lamp. I have exactly such an option.
Part #26 - horn bracket (61 33 1 380 019), or (65 75 1 385 783) after restyling.





Part #11 is a plastic (65 81 1 373 714) or metal (65 75 1 385 907) shield after restyling.
Part No. 12 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X16-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. For attaching a sound signal. Perhaps this is a mistake, or it is for restyling. My bracket (#26) has a bolt-on mount.
Part No. 13 - main alarm wiring (61 12 1 375 608). I already installed it on the car along with the other wiring.


1 - connector of the alarm ECU
2 - connector for wiring #16 (or BC wiring)
3.1, 3.2 - corresponding connectors to the door stop
4 - connector for wiring "electric package"
5 - "mass" G300 under the rear seat
6.1, 6.2 - corresponding connectors for heating the rear glass
7.1, 7.2 - corresponding connectors to the end of the trunk
8 - connector to the rear LED

Part No. 14 - magnetic lock cable (61 12 1 380 488) - is inserted into the door connector of the driver's door.


1 - connector of the alarm ECU
2 - into the door connector C405

Part No. 15 - alarm wiring (61 12 1 375 606) - to the engine ECU (or BC wiring). In the photo, it is marked with the letter A.
Part No. 16 - underhood signaling wiring (61 12 1 375 606), similar to BC. In the photo, it is marked with the letter B.


Connection of two wires.


A1 - connector for underhood wiring #16 B1
A2 - connector for underhood wiring #16 B2
A3 - connector to the alarm ECU
A9, A10 - corresponding connectors for the Motronic engine wiring ECU
It is likely that in the case of an alarm installation without an on-board computer, this wiring had only these connectors. Other connectors of this wiring are used only for the on-board computer. I will write about them in the relevant topic.

B1 - connector for wiring #15 A1
B2 - connector for wiring #15 A2
B3 - connector to the alarm ECU
B4 - connector C302 pin H
B5 - "mass" G200 under the steering column
B6 - connector for alarm wiring No. 13, connector 2
B7 - connector to the end of the hood
B8 - connector to the external temperature sensor
B9.1, B9.2 - audio signal connector

Part No. 17 - hood end cap (65 75 1 370 492) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - hood end bracket (65 71 1 378 069) - 1 pc. It is placed on the left bracket of the hood, I already mentioned it earlier in the topic about the hood.
Part No. 19 - driver's door central lock drive (51 26 1 375 111) - 1 pc. I don't know how it differs from a regular drive, but everything worked for me on a regular drive as well.
Part No. 20 - drive mounting bolt (51 26 1 375 979) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 21 - bracket D = 13MM (61 13 1 371 074) - 1 pc. For fixing the external temperature sensor connector.
Part No. 22 - clip D=16.8MM (12 52 1 276 147) - 1 pc. To fix the sound signal wire.
Part No. 23 - terminal D=15/B=4 (61 13 1 353 866) - 1 pc. For fixing the wire of the external temperature sensor.
Part No. 24 is a clamp for a microswitch (65 81 1 377 861). I'm not sure, but it's probably the same part as #18.

So, we begin to install the alarm system.
The main wiring (#13) is already laid along the left door sill, under the rear seat, and in the trunk to the rear license plate. It is also wound along the rib in the trunk lid, and connected to the terminal with a 7.1 connector. The main wiring of the terminator is connected to the corresponding connector 7.2.


In the body, the factory does not provide a hole for the installation of an alarm control lamp under the rear license plate. But in the original EBA instructions, there is a diagram for marking the hole, according to which it is necessary to drill it yourself. We mark and drill. This is my old photo:


Insert the LED into the hole and connect it to connector 8.




It has everything in the trunk. Let's go to the front part. We pass wiring No. 16 through a special hole in the rubber insert of the motor shield.


Next, we lead the wiring to the fuse block and lay it along the left wing behind the left fog lamp. From the bottom of the platform, we screw the sound signal into the provided holes. Pre-connect connectors B9.1 and B9.2 to it, and fix the wire with clip #22.




The sound signal is closed by a protective shield, which is attached to a pin on the spar with a plastic nut and two bolts in the holes in the platform.


The connector of the external temperature sensor B8 with the sensor is brought out under the left fog lamp and we fix the wire to the shield with clip #23.


By default, it is inserted into a special hole in the front spoiler (or into the air duct after restyling). But I will have a BBS apron installed instead of the standard spoiler, which does not have this hole. Therefore, I will then look around the place, how it is better to fix it there.
Places of attachment of the sound signal and shield on the site - top view:


Near the fuse block, connect the terminal of the hood No. 17 to connector B7. With the help of bracket No. 18 (and/or No. 24), we fix the end piece on the left bracket of the hood locks.


We fasten the bracket with the terminal.


The stop is set. This is everything under the hood.


Let's go to the salon.
We connect connector 1 of wiring #13, connector 1 of cable #14, connector A3 of wiring #15, connector B3 of wiring #16 to ECU signaling #2. We connect black connector B6 of wiring #16 and black connector 2 of alarm wiring #13.
Connector B4 of wiring No. 16 is connected to the connector of additional options C302 on pin H.






We fasten the ECU block with two self-tapping screws to the plastic bracket installed behind the instrument panel.
We fasten the "mass" terminal B5 of wiring No. 16 at point G200 under the steering column.


Signal wiring connectors No. 13 3.1, 3.2 and 4 are brought out to the niche of the left speaker. We connect connector 3.1 to the terminal of the driver's door, and connect the main wiring of the terminal to the corresponding connector 3.2.


Connector 4 is connected to the corresponding wiring connector of the "electric package" in the speaker niche.


We connect the corresponding wiring connectors No. 15 and No. 16 - A1 with B1, and A2 with B2.


Wire No. 15 is laid to the right, connectors A9 and A10 are connected in a gap to the corresponding connectors of the ECU Motronic engine wiring. I haven't installed the motor wiring yet, so I will do that later.


These connectors are used to disconnect power from the Motronic ECU. If for some reason you will not have wiring #15 connected to wiring #16 (A1 from B1, and A2 from B2.), or there will be no underhood wiring at all, then these connectors do not need to be connected - otherwise the engine will not start.
We go to the back of the salon.
We fasten the "mass" terminal 5 of wiring No. 13 at point G300 under the rear seat.
It remains to connect a connector that is not entirely clear to me - to the heating of the rear window. Why is it - I don't understand... Maybe the alarm will work when the heating filaments are broken, if you break the rear window... I won't experiment. :)
So, we connect connector 6.2 of wiring No. 13 to the left contact of the rear window heating (the glass has not yet been installed).

And to the corresponding connector 6.1, we connect the glass heating connector from the main wiring.


That's all for the cabin.
All that remains is to install the magnetic lock in the driver's door and connect it.
We lay cable No. 14 to the niche of the left speaker.


We insert its connector 2 into a special hole in the door connector C405 and fix it with latches.


We install the connector and connect the corresponding door wiring connector to it. It is not very convenient to do this, but in the end, I did it.


Of course, the factory does not provide a hole for installing a magnetic alarm lock in the door. But in the original EBA instructions, there is a diagram for marking the hole, according to which it is necessary to drill it yourself. We mark and drill. This is my old photo:


We get such a neat opening (this is also my old photo):


Since all the doors were replaced during the body work, it was necessary to re-drill such a hole in the other doors. I decided that it would be easier if the craftsmen made the hole immediately on site - I gave them the same diagram with dimensions from the EBA. I did so in vain... this is what came out of it...


...*??%№№"""**??:%%; I had no other words when I saw it....well HOW SO??? A vivid example of folk wisdom - "do you want to do something good - do it yourself!" (c)
Fortunately for me, the new rubber gasket covers this shame - although that is a little comforting...
In the same way, we lead the connector of the door wiring cable to the magnetic lock into this hole (call it a hole - the tongue does not turn).


We insert the lock into the hole from the middle, put a rubber gasket and an overlay with an LED on the outside. Then we fix everything in the assembly from the middle with a locking clip in a special groove in the lock. I haven't installed the lock yet, as I forgot to paint its cover matte black. Will paint later, with other parts together.


The LED connector and the door wiring cable connector connect to the lock. It will look like this (my old photo again):


So that there is no doubt that the key is magnetic! ;)

A regular security alarm system is installed.

If you're wondering how it works, I made a video last time:
[MEDIA=youtube]LyveS8qmx34[/MEDIA]
View: https://youtu.be/LyveS8qmx34

[MEDIA=youtube]vQHqyZiRz34[/MEDIA]
View: https://youtu.be/vQHqyZiRz34


Next time I will probably write about the on-board computer.

[The_Glory]

Collection_73. ETK_52_Seats. Seat heating.

I will continue about the wiring. So, the main wiring, the wiring of the "electric package" and the wiring of additional options have been laid, now you need to connect it all.


I will write about the wiring of each option separately. But, since the interior has not yet been assembled, I will add about the installation of some blocks and buttons later in separate entries.
I'll start with the seat heating wiring.
This is the last subdivision of the large ETK section Seats

For the E30, heating was available only for the front seats. Kits are different for regular and sports seats. They also differ in the type of seat upholstery - fabric or leather.

Retrofitting set of heated seat Pd


I also added heating to the rear seats - by analogy with the E32 and E34.
But first about the front ones.

Seat heating


Part No. 1 - seat cushion heating element - 2 pcs.
Detail #2 - seat back heating element - 2 pcs.
Both elements differ in the type of seat and its upholstery. I have installed elements for the leather sports seats of the convertible (64 11 1 380 687, 64 11 1 380 688) - I managed to buy them new once.


Part No. 3 - seat heating switch (61 31 1 366 464) - 2 pcs. - on the left in the photo. On earlier machines, buttons with a green backlight were installed - in the photo in the center. On the right is the E32/E34 button.


Part No. 4 - relay (61 31 1 373 588) - 1 pc. I already wrote about the relay earlier, but I will clarify - it is a K5 relay. It is also necessary to install fuse No. 16 with a rating of 15A.


Part No. 5 - seat heating wiring (61 12 1 380 484) - 1 pc. Of course, I checked all the wiring and rewound it.




1 - the power connector, connects to the connector of additional options C302 on pins T and U. Actually, only one pin U is used. The wire from adjusting the brightness of the backlight of the devices comes to pin T, but it is not used. I still did not understand why it is there... By the way, I updated my table on pinout C302.


2 - "ground" wire, screwed at point G200.


3, 4 - connectors for heating elements, left and right seats.


5, 6 - connectors for heating buttons, left and right seats.


Part No. 6 - bracket (52 10 1 916 175) - 2 pcs. It is installed under the seats on the springs of the frame to fix the connectors of the heating elements.


Part #7 - terminal D=9/B=4 (61 13 1 351 045) - 1 pc. To fix the wiring, but in which place, I didn't understand... that's why I didn't put it...
Part #8 - screed L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 4 pcs. For additional fixation of the wiring to the main harnesses.

I made the wiring for heating the rear seats myself. It was based on a universal set of seat heating and modified according to the ETM scheme and E32/E34 buttons.




1 - power connector, connects to the additional options connector C302 on pin P. This pin is unused and empty from the factory. I added it in parallel with the U pin for the heated front seats. You still need to pick up a plastic case with the necessary "code" for it
2 - "mass" wire, screwed at point G300.
3.1, 3.2 - connectors for heating elements of the pillow and the back of the left rear seat.
4.1, 4.2 - connectors for heating elements of the pillow and the back of the right rear seat.
5, 6 - connectors for heating buttons, left and right rear seats.


7 - button illumination power connector, connected to the rear ashtray illumination lamp.
8 - the "ground" wire of the backlight of the buttons, screwed to the pin of the console.

So, the wiring is laid along the left threshold, to the gearbox tunnel and under the back seat. We connect the power connectors in C302. The front ones are on the T and U pins, and the rear ones are on the P pin.


The button connectors are placed on the gearbox tunnel, and the heating element connectors are placed under the left and right front seats.


Then they will come out through special slots in the carpet, connected to the seats and fixed in special brackets (#6). These are my old photos. It is probably here that you will need to add a terminal and tie rods (#7 and #8), but so that it does not interfere with adjusting the position of the seat.
[img width=800 height=600]https://i.ibb.co/Xtymmqg/01.jpg[/img]



Connectors for heating the rear seats are placed under the rear seat. Then the cushion and the back of the seat will be connected to them.
[img width=450 height=600]https://i.ibb.co/25Gtfzz/20230509-164347.jpg[/img]

The connectors for the buttons and their illumination are brought out to the gearbox tunnel and connected to the lamp of the rear ashtray. For this, I made a special connector there, I will show it later.


After the interior is fully assembled, the heated seats will look like this (for now, this is my old photo):


I won't be driving this car in the winter, but all seats are heated! ;)

P.S.
In fact, a lot has already been done - I will somehow write about it little by little...

[The_Glory]

Collection_72. ETK_41_Body. Simultaneous locking (driver's lock).

And again about the locks... I already wrote about the fact that it was not easy to find an entire driver's lock. The new lock was also rejected - they are no longer available. Therefore, I continued to search at flea markets and junkyards, and I still managed to find the cylinder of the driver's lock for the central lock. On the fourth try... Almost intact... :) The locking shank was cracked, but the main thing is that the lever is intact!


I wanted to simply rearrange the entire lever on my already-picked lock, but it turned out that not everything is so simple. Both of my broken locks had a roller bearing on the lever and the one I found had a ball bearing. So, they are at least of two types.
Accordingly, other details of the lock are also different. It can be seen in the photo.


The bearing washer is on the left for the ball bearing, on the right for the roller bearing.


The washer with a spring also has minor differences in the retainers.


And most importantly - different grooves on the lock cylinder itself! Left for ball bearing, right for roller bearing.


So, simply repositioning the lever will not work - all the details of the locks are different.


In addition to the locking shank and springs - here I was lucky, they are the same. So I had to change this lock under my own key, and rearrange the entire shank from my lock on it. I already have experience, so I did it quickly and without problems.


But, apparently, someone has already tried to open this lock with a screwdriver - that's why I had to change the decorative cover as well. I did not remove it on other locks. It is fixed with a core, and under it there is a curtain of slots for a key and a microscopic spring on the axis. Therefore, you need to remove it very carefully so that the spring does not fly out. I only miraculously did not lose her.


And installing it was even more difficult. Although, in fact, everything is simple - we insert the axis with the spring exactly like this:



We insert the curtain into the grooves, pressing the spring with it and hold it with a screwdriver. Now you need to somehow put the cover on the cylinder, and at the same time, so that the spring does not fly out together with the curtain! I struggled for probably 20 minutes... Then I found a working option - we insert the key into the cover (in the background of the photo):


Then we insert the key with the cover into the cylinder, and press the curtain with the spring with it. Now you can lower the cover on the key and fix it with the core. You need to turn not on the old marks, but in other places. There are no photos, because all hands were busy. :)
After several attempts, everything worked out - the cover is in place, and the blind moves normally with the key.
Next, simply assemble the lock with your own key, I already wrote about it - it is not worth repeating. The castle is ready.


The lock is assembled with heating.


We install a lock with a bracket, fix it with a heated bracket. Then we install the end of the key, connect it to the door wiring and fix the wiring in clips. Doing this is not very convenient, but in fact, everything is similar to what I previously described for the right door.


The driver's lock for the central lock is installed.


It remains to install the magnetic alarm lock, but I will write about this later in a separate topic.


So, now all the locks are installed, but the driver's lock works VERY tight and hard... If the passenger door lock opens and closes with a slight movement of the key, it takes a lot of effort to turn the key in the driver's door, after which it clicks loudly... That's probably why they're all already broken...and I think this lock won't last that long either... I don't know what can be done about it, and should it be...? I may have to return the modern alarm unit with remote control locks...

P.S.
An addition to the previous addition :)
I did manage to find the correct 85-87 lower engine bay shield.


Already washed it completely, it needs to be repaired a little more.
Now everything will be there as it should be.

[The_Glory]

Thus, all E30 had a fuel tank ventilation system, regardless of the presence of an adsorber with activated carbon. It was put on cars to comply with Euro 2 environmental standards. For the USA, it was probably put on all cars. And in Europe, on cars without a carbon adsorber, the tank ventilation tube simply goes out into the atmosphere on the left side near the tank, without any valves.

Yes, I know about the "fuel cooling" option) For southern countries. I saw it on sale on ebay as far as Australia...far away.. ) But a rather dangerous thing - fuel hoses on clamps near the exhaust manifold! )

[roguetoaster]

I'd guess that the difference in caps allowing air in or not may have something to do with the car having a charcoal canister or not having one. At least on late model US cars and the tourings I've had they've all had canisters, and they've all had the smooth plastic cap that appears to have some type of vent structure built in. Early cars seemed to have several different fuel cap styles, but I never looked in to why.

That said, the 80s were a crazy time for fuel setups, and if you ever want a laugh just look up the 325e (and some 325i models too apparently, but I've only seen it on ETAs) fuel supply line that runs through a heat exchanger in one of the refrigerant lines before going to the regulator.

[The_Glory]

I assume that cap has no air admittance valve. I'm not sure if the purpose of the vented cap is to allow air in as fuel is consumed or to allow for a safety relief in case of system over pressure.

It's funny, I've purchased quite a few E30s with locking lug keys in the glove box, but never ended up with a set of actual locks.

Was that lighted key the knock off version or original? The knock offs look very promising/cheap.

And does a regular lid have a valve?
The E30 has a factory fuel tank ventilation system for this, with a bursting tank in the rear right wing.

The key blank is original (51 21 1 151 014) - with the same logo as on the old key.

[roguetoaster]

I assume that cap has no air admittance valve. I'm not sure if the purpose of the vented cap is to allow air in as fuel is consumed or to allow for a safety relief in case of system over pressure.

It's funny, I've purchased quite a few E30s with locking lug keys in the glove box, but never ended up with a set of actual locks.

Was that lighted key the knock off version or original? The knock offs look very promising/cheap.

[The_Glory]

Collection_72. ETK_41_Body. Simultaneous closing (supplement).

A small addition to the previous entry about locks.
Recently, by chance, I saw for sale a tank cover with a lock, but without a key. It's not expensive, but I bought it just in case...
I thought that later I would somehow buy another one, break them apart, and from two lids, I would somehow assemble one lid under my key...since they are not collapsible, in principle...
I received the parcel, twisted the cover in my hands, wanted to try to take it apart or break it...



And then I think - suddenly my key will fit... I tried it - something clicked... it opened! I thought it was over...but no!


I cleaned it, lubricated it, put a new rubber gasket on it - it works perfectly!


It cannot be opened with the other two keys. This happens once in a lifetime, and not everyone! (c) It is surprising that the key fit, considering the number of possible combinations of the lock. So now I have ALL the locks under one key, and I didn't have to break the covers.
I put it in place of my usual one.


There is an inscription on the lid with a lock - "1 without ventilation" - what does this mean?


There was a standard cover:


Now the lid with the lock:


But this cover, unlike the standard one, is not very well fixed in the bracket on the tank hatch, but it is not critical.


The double protection of the tank lid was a "bonus" - a central lock and a lock on the lid! :) But that's more plus another option in the complete set of the car, not protection ;)

By the way, I was really lucky with the locks - at a good price I bought a new blank key with backlight - exactly the one I was going to order.



Now, for a complete set, you need to order more blanks of a compact and service key and find a master to cut the necessary code on them, and not spoil the blanks! )
From the same seller, I bought another original artifact - wheel bolts with locks.


I cleaned it, greased it - the locks work, but unfortunately, there is only one key, not four, as it should be, and there are no plastic covers. I will make the keys together with the main keys, and the covers can be printed on a 3D printer, because they are not sold separately.

But there is a problem with the driver's door lock for the central lock - my order was canceled because it is no longer available in stock... So far I have not been able to find it even in flea markets... I am looking.

During this time, I found a few more useful things.

A set of original shields and air ducts in perfect condition.



I already wrote about them before, but then I bought only shields - a new analog. So for comparison - in the original, the stamping and material is much better.


And the air ducts are fixed in the original shields much better than in the Chinese ones.


Along with the tank cover, I bought the original cover for the rear license plate. I have one, but the price was such that it would not be wise not to buy it - it will be in stock ;)



Why was it necessary to drill holes? Especially in the center... Although they are closed with a number.

And another rare item, which I also already have ;) A shelf with a curtain.



The condition is normal, although I need it for an experiment, but more on that later.

I planned another "experiment" with the color of the interior, but I will also write about it a little later in a separate topic.

On the car, I did something on the interior, on the air conditioner, I am waiting for parts from electroplating, I prepared the external parts for painting in semi-matte black... But then there is no time, then there is no desire to write about it all... But somehow later I will write...

[The_Glory]

Collection_72. ETK_41_Body. Simultaneous closing.

I forgot about another ETK chapter on locks! :)

Simultaneous locking


Part #1 - a complete set of locks and keys for a car without a central lock (51 21 1 904 724) and for a car with a central lock (51 21 1 904 727). I'm not sure if they are still available to order, but recently they were still available, although not cheap.
Part #2 - not used.

The kit for a car without a central lock (51 21 1 904 724) looks like this (photo from the Internet):



The kit for cars with a central lock (51 21 1 904 727) looks like this (photo from the Internet):


As you can see from the photo, there is a difference in the availability of the tank cover kit and differences in the locks of the driver's door and the trunk.

In my case it looks like this:


There is no trunk lock in the photo, because it was previously installed on the car. I ordered a new driver's door lock for the central locking - I'm waiting for it to arrive from Germany. They promised in three weeks... Then I will write about him separately.
Additional keys will also need to be ordered later.

By the way, a few words about the ignition lock. I already wrote that it is not collapsible, but if you drill a hole in the outer black ring, or make an incision, you can gain access to the locking ring and disassemble it to get your key. If you do it carefully and put it with the slot down, it will not be noticeable. I have a lock key that fits, so I didn't need to do that. Therefore, I will write only about how to remove the lock. Very easy. Turn the key to position 1. On machines before restyling, there is a special hole in the lock housing, into which you need to insert a thin screwdriver and press.


Take out the lock.


Then just snap it into the case.
On cars after restyling, it is even easier - there is a special hole right next to the slot for the key - you don't even need to remove the plastic covers of the steering column. But there is no hole in the lock body. In this regard, there is an important nuance - if you click the early lock into the restyling case, it will no longer be possible to remove it.


So, with that, I completely wrap up the big ETK chapter
Body

Next, there will be several entries on the wiring of additional options, and then, finally, there will be an assembly of the interior.

[The_Glory]

Collection_71. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glass guides.

I already wrote about glass guides and seals in the section on glass installation, but I forgot about this separate ETK section... Anyway, I will write briefly, for order :)
Front window guide




Part No. 1 - rubber glass guide left (51 32 1 907 289) and right (51 32 1 907 290) - is not available to order. It is placed in the door frame, and also serves as a glass seal.
Part No. 3 (pad No. 2 + seal No. 4) - right corner pad (51 32 1 924 918) - is used only on the simplest equipment, - without a passenger mirror. It is placed instead of a mirror. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 5 - cover left (51 32 1 904 517) and right (51 32 1 904 518) - plastic decorative cover. In my case, it is replaced by optional pads with tweeters, so it is not used.
Part #6 - M5 nut (63 25 9 128 043) - for fastening part #3. Not used.
Part No. 7 - plastic insert (51 32 1 874 407) - 4 pcs. for fastening part No. 5.


Parts #8-10 - metal glass guides, used only on lever window lifts (after April 1988).
On cable glass elevators, the guide wire is also a guide for the glass, so they are not used in this case.
So, you need to install only two parts - insert the rubber guide No. 1 into the groove of the door frame, and plastic inserts No. 7 into the special holes near the mirror.
done


On the other hand, similarly.

Now the back door.
Rear window guide




Part #1 - metal guide left (51 34 1 906 591) and right (51 34 1 906 592).
Part No. 2 - bolt M6x12 (07 11 9 915 015) - 4 pcs., for fastening guides No. 1.
Part No. 3 - rubber glass guide left (51 34 1 906 807) and right (51 34 1 906 808).
Part No. 4 is a rubber seal for the left (51 34 1 906 747) and right (51 34 1 906 748) blind glass.
Part No. 5 - tip (51 34 1 922 700) - is not available to order. I did not understand what this part was, I did not have it. Similar to the additional seal for guide No. 1. But it is already provided for on seal No. 4. Perhaps parts No. 4 and No. 5 began to be made with one part. Unfortunately, this photo turned out to be of poor quality.


Parts #6-9 - metal glass guides, used only on lever window lifts (after April 1988).
On cable glass elevators, the guide wire is also a guide for the glass, so they are not used in this case.

I will repeat an important point - on the back door, before installing the glass lifters and guides, you must first insert the glass into the door. Only then can the blind glass and guide seals be installed.


So, we insert and lower the glass to the bottom of the door, then we put on the seal No. 4 on the blind glass, and tightly insert it into the groove of the door frame.


Then we insert the guide No. 1 into the door and insert it into the hole in the door frame at the top. We press the blind glass with it and fasten it from below with two #2 bolts.


We insert the rubber guide No. 3 into the groove of the door frame.
On the other hand, similarly.

Now you can wind the glass in the rubber guides and fix it on the window lifter - I already wrote about this earlier.

On the doors, I only had to put locks on the driver's door and door trim.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Heating the lock cylinder. (part 2) (ECU repair)

I have already mentioned several times about the heating of the lock cylinder and the interior lighting delay timer. Here are its main elements:


For its operation, wiring and a special mechanism of the driver's door handle are also required - with an additional contact.


But there is one problem - probably 95% of these ECUs do not work because of a broken contact. Mine was still working, but judging by the crack, it didn't have long left to live either... With each opening of the door, this contact bends, and eventually breaks. The soldered new contact will not last long there either.


I had an idea how to repair it, just like I promised - I will write about it separately.
I had several such ECUs with broken contacts. Someone has already tried to disassemble one of them, but it is absolutely not disassembled - it is filled with hard sealant. So I just cut it! Some radio parts are visible inside, but it is obvious that it is not disassembled.


But all I need from it is the top part of its case and not a big piece of wire of the appropriate color (brown green) from its wiring. The broken lampshade of the trunk lighting also came in handy - namely, the contact from it.


Therefore, we carefully cut off the top cover, crimp the terminal on the wire, and bend the contact from the ceiling to the shape of the ECU case.


The idea is as follows - we duplicate the factory contact with a wire.


We press the new contact to the body with the same cover.


We connect the wire


The thickness of the contact from the lampshade is 3-4 times greater than the factory contact of the ECU - it will be difficult to break it ;)


So, I am implementing my idea.
We solder the wire with the terminal to the remains of the factory contact of the ECU.


We press it with a new contact.


On the other side is a place for a terminal.


Lubricate the cover and the body of the ECU with body sealant, and glue the cover, pressing it to the new contact.


done




After the sealant dries, we clean the edges of its remains, and we get what looks like the original ECU, but with a duplicate contact.


The door handle mechanism will close the new contact to the soldered wire, and just in case, duplicate the contact through the wire.




I installed the ECU in its place, connected it to the door wiring.


We raise the external handle, and it closes the contact, pressing it to the soldered wire.


And additionally through the wire itself with the terminal.


The new contact is held firmly under the cover, so it should work for a long time and without fail! :)

P.S.
The ECU is still available for order (61 31 1 374 784), but with its price of about $100-150, I consider such a repair quite reasonable. ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_33. ETK_61_Wire bundles (part 2) (installation of door wiring)

In the first part, I described in detail all the connectors of the door wiring and their expansion. Now we will talk about installing the wiring in the door.
I remind you, wiring for all four doors for maximum configuration with additional options.


I start with the driver's door. The door wiring is wound from the outside, through the hole in the front end of the door, and fixed with a rubber corrugation. In my case, the factory alarm system is installed, so there is a magnetic lock cable with its own, separate, connector in the door connector.


This significantly complicates the connection of the door wiring to the main wiring - very inconvenient, so it took a lot of time. The body constantly fell inside the body, or did not press the rubber corrugation. By the way, the corrugation must be immediately tightly put on the body of the door connector, and then clamped between two parts of its body. If you first connect the connector, and then try to put a rubber corrugation on it, it will not hold. Often for this reason, water gets there, and the contacts oxidize and rot.
In the end, I did it!


Now we lay out the wiring in the door and fix it. This requires 4 red clips, 4 gray clips, 1 bracket, 2 tie rods and tape.


The wiring to the electric drive of the mirror, to the button for its adjustment, and to the tweeter is brought up and fixed with three red clips. The wiring to the adjustment button is then fixed with two smaller gray clips, and leads to the cabin handle. The wiring to the tweeter is brought out through a special hole and laid to the front corner of the door, fixed with tape (this is how it was from the factory). It is not very convenient to pull them through, I do not understand why they were not laid together with the wires to the electric mirror drive...


Next, the window regulator motor is connected, and the harness is fixed with two ties at the bottom of the cutout in the door.


In the rear part of the door, the wiring of the central lock, alarm and heating of the lock is fixed with a red clip and connected to the electric drive of the central lock. The connectors of the end of the key and heating of the lock are inserted into a special bracket.


I don't have the standard lock and magnetic lock installed yet, so the wiring to them is not fixed yet. It will be fixed with two gray clips on the lock plate and on the door lock mechanism - so that it does not interfere with the lowering of the glass (I will show it later on the passenger door).


Let's go to the passenger door. In fact, everything is similar, but a little simpler, since the wiring is a little less.
We pull the wiring into the door through the hole in the front end, connect and fix the rubber corrugation.


Now we lay out the wiring in the door and fix it. This requires 3 red clips, 3 gray clips, 1 bracket, 2 ties and tape.


The wiring to the electric drive of the mirror and to the tweeter is led upwards and fixed with three red clips. The wiring to the tweeter is brought out through a special hole and laid to the front corner of the door, fixed with tape (this is how it was from the factory).


Next, the window regulator motor is connected, and the harness is fixed with two ties at the bottom of the cutout in the door.


In the rear part of the door, the wiring of the central lock is fixed with a gray clip, and is connected to the electric drive of the central lock. The connector of the end of the key is inserted into a special bracket.




The wiring of the end of the key is fixed with two gray clips on the lock plate and on the door mechanism of the lock - so that it does not interfere with the lowering of the glass.




It's even easier with the rear doors. The door wiring is wound from the outside, through the hole in the front end of the door, and fixed with a rubber corrugation. One nuance - in order to more easily push the window regulator button connector housing through the round hole, you need to open its top cover.
The door wiring connector is inserted into the hole in the middle pillar of the body and on the other side is also fixed with a rubber corrugation.

Thus, unlike the front door, the connector on the rear door is connected to the main wiring in the middle of the body rack, so water does not get on it and it is stored much better. The connector is fixed in the niche of the middle pillar of the body, near the oval opening, with a special bracket.
Now we lay out the wiring in the door and fix it. For this you need 4 screeds.


The wiring of the window regulator button is led upwards, into a special hole near the door handle.
Next, the window regulator motor is connected, and the harness is fixed with four ties on top of the cutout in the door.
In the rear part of the door, the wiring of the central lock is connected to the electric drive of the central lock.

Similarly on the other side.




The door wiring is installed.

Although, I will write separately about the heating wiring of the driver's door lock and about the repair of its ECU.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_70. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 4)

I return to wiring again. In the third part, I focused on laying the rear part of the interior wiring. There was a delay with the front one due to the fact that the fuse block was not yet fixed, as it was still necessary to wire the air conditioner. I have already done it, but there will be separate entries about the air conditioner.
So, the fuse box is fully equipped with all relays and original fuses, rated according to ETM, and fixed to the body. I just polished the cover so far, but it will be necessary to buy a new one with all the inscriptions.




All wiring harnesses of additional options are pulled through a rubber insert in the engine shield, and placed under the steering column.
The wiring of the on-board control system, electric sunroof, mirrors with lamps for reading maps and additional interior lighting are laid up along the front roof rack.


Installed later brackets for wiring (black, in background) and for C302 accessory connectors and C103 torpedo wiring connector (white). With them, it is much more convenient to connect the wiring of additional options.


Had to use part of the early black bracket to mount my early C103 connector to the white bracket.


Cut off the right part.


And installed it in the grooves of the white bracket. Not ideal, but it holds... The comfort relay had to be rearranged under the C302 connector.


Connected and installed in the niche of the left speaker are the ECU of the central locking and the ECU of the heating of the driver's lock and the interior lighting delay timer (I already mentioned them earlier).


The power supply of the "electric package" is connected - the central lock, the electric window comfort relay, the electric windows and the electric sunroof.
Connecting the wiring of electric windows and electric sunroof through the fuse button. Two white and one black connectors, which cannot be confused with each other.


The central lock is connected to pin D (green) of connector C302.
The comfort relay connects to pin Q (white black) and pin Z (red yellow) of connector C302.


For some reason, the "mass" wires turned out to be a little short and did not reach the G200 point - in order not to make additional twists, I had to fasten them with a white bracket bolt - not critical.


The "ground" wire of the comfort relay (brown-blue) is connected to the terminal of the driver's door. The wire of the comfort relay (brown-blue), which goes to the end of the right door, is connected to the corresponding contact. Thus, the relay works from both doors.


I already wrote earlier that two-contact end switches are installed on the front doors. The "ground" wire of the lock heating relay and lighting timer (brown-violet) is connected to the second contact, and the standard wire of the limit switch (brown-yellow) is connected to its corresponding contact. In the photo, a black wire is also connected - to the signal light on.


By the way, the contacts of several more options are connected to the driver's terminal, so there is a whole "garland" of contacts. I will write about them separately for each option.

We connect the main "ground" wires at point G200, and the power supply of the ignition switch C200. We fix its C200 connector on the steering column in special grooves. We connect the brake light switch.


We lay and fix the wiring of the window regulators and the fuse button through the tunnel.


We lay the wiring of additional options parallel to the harnesses of the main wiring on the right threshold.


But we put it in the niche of the right speaker, to the right door. We connect the standard "ground" wire of the interior lighting (brown and purple) to the terminal of the right door. We connect the wire from the comfort relay (brown-blue) to the second contact of the terminal.


All wiring for additional options is laid along the left threshold. Although it physically did not fit into the factory brackets, I had to use plastic ties.


It still looks a bit "chaotic" under the wheel, but in fact, all that remains is to connect everything after installing the torpedo.


So, all the wiring is laid in the cabin.
I will write about each option separately, in the corresponding section of ETK.
And next time I will write about laying the door wiring.