E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_48. ETK_51_Body equipment. Lining of the luggage compartment

We continue the section:
Body trim

I already wrote about the lining of the trunk, but in ETK the lower carpet is a separate unit:
Trunk trim panel





Detail No. 1 is the trunk carpet, which is also a cover for the spare wheel niche. Available only in one color ANTHRAZIT. There was an option for a spare wheel with wide tires, and for an additional tank. In the first case, the differences are not significant, and in the second, it is much shorter. If I ever decide to install my extra tank, I'll probably have to cut my carpet...
I couldn't find the number on my carpet, so I think it's a carpet for a regular spare wheel, with additional reinforcing plates above the wheel.


After dry cleaning, the carpet looks pretty good considering I once spilled a can of motor oil on it :)


Detail Forum - support for the carpet. Standard (51 47 1 904 726), or for wide tires 205/55 (51 47 1 925 406). I had a black standard one - proof that the carpet is for a regular spare wheel.


But it was already broken and glued, so I bought a white, reinforced support (51 47 1 904 728).


For comparison:




The support is placed on the spare wheel mounting pin.


Details #3-6 - rubber ballast pads with a total weight of 15 kg. Used on 323i and 325i models for better weight distribution between the axles. They are placed at the bottom of the spare wheel niche, and under the carpet. I don't have them yet - in the process of searching. Therefore, a photo from the Internet:


Carpet in the trunk.


Only the optional trunk lid lining remained from the trunk linings. But there were unexpected difficulties with its fastening, so I will write about it later, when I overcome them.

There is a large hole in the front lining of the trunk, which needs to be covered with something - more on that later.

[The_Glory]

Ah, unfortunate, but I hope your recovery goes well and I look forward to the next update whenever you can get to it.

Ah, unfortunate, but I hope your recovery goes well and I look forward to the next update whenever you can get to it.

OK, thanks, I'll try)

[The_Glory]

Collection_47. ETK_51_Body equipment. Door glass movement mechanism

We continue the section:
Body trim

In the previous post, I said that the glass and door windows are different for pre-April 1988 and post-April 1988 cars. This is due to differences in the design of window regulators and doors. These two types of glass and window lifters are not interchangeable and can only be used in accordance with each other. Until April 1988, the window regulators were cable-operated. Cable guides simultaneously served as glass guides. After April 1988, the design of the window lifts was significantly changed - they received a lever-type drive ("scissors") with additional glass guides.
Both types can have either manual or electric drive. At the same time, the glass of the corresponding type is the same, regardless of the type of drive.
There is also a nuance regarding the compatibility of window regulators with doors. Since the internal structure of the doors was changed after the restyling in 1987, and the structure of the windows was changed only in 1988, the "cable" type window regulators fit any door, and the "scissor" type window regulators only fit the doors after the restyling. To put them on the door before 87, you need to drill additional holes. The doors after 1987 have holes for attaching both types of window regulators.

So, now all my doors are restyled, but the window regulators, according to the year of production, remain of the "cable" type. Previously, the front ones were electric, and the rear ones were manual. But I did manage to find the rear electric ones, and now all four windows have an electric drive.

Unit:
Front door glass moving mechanism



Since I have never had front windows with a manual drive, then we will consider only electric windows - part #10 on the diagram.


Detail No. 11 - guide cable of the window lifter.
The guide (No. 11) with an electric drive (No. 12) is attached to the door with four bolts (No. 2) and three nuts (No. 13). By the way, the ETK does not show two more similar bolts (#2) that fasten the glass to the window regulator. But I will write about the installation of glass later.
Part E30 Classified Forums - 6-sided Z-shaped key for manual emergency closing of windows (54 12 7 199 322). It is used only for "cable" electric windows. In the event of engine failure, it is inserted into the engine axle through a special plug in the door trim and turns it like a manual window lifter. It is also used for electric sunroof.
Cover No. 15 and four screws No. 16 press the electric drive to the cable guide.


The cover of the electric drive mechanism and the rubber plug of the axle are assembled with the motor according to the ETC.


Part No. 17 is a plastic bracket that additionally fixes the cable guide. Apparently, for some reason, few people have kept it. I didn't have it either. Although their price is not pleasing, I ordered new ones - 51 33 1 919 541.


It is placed at the bottom in a special hole, and is fixed on the guiding cable.


While inserting the window lifter into the door by trial and error, I scratched the paint a little, then I had to repaint it. To prevent this from happening, you need to immediately turn the window regulator 90 degrees and put it in the door, then turn it back. It is better to do this before installing glass seals. I inserted the other three window regulators faster and without scratches. Align the holes and fasten. By the way, the photo shows empty holes for installing restyled "scissors" type window lifts.


P.S.
I did find my black factory clips for the pull of the door handle - I put them instead of the new white ones so that they were the same on all doors.

Unit:
Rear door glass movement mechanism



Here again the inaccuracy of ETK - the name of the section and the diagram are simply copied from the previous section of the front windows. But these are the rear ones.
Rear "cable" power windows are not very common, but I was lucky enough to find them in fairly good working order. Although I had to wash and clean them well, and then lubricate them. By the way, I did the same with the front ones for prevention.
So, we wash and clean the guides and cables



Then remove the cover, clean the cable mechanism and lubricate it.


On the other hand, we also remove the cover, clean the drive mechanism and lubricate it.


The protective casings on top of the guides became brittle from old age, so I cut new ones from the same material in their shape. They are attached with ordinary staples for a stapler.



I lubricated the cables and their guides with a special Teflon lubricant for window regulators.


Now they are ready to install.


The design and fastening of the rear power windows is similar to the front ones. Therefore, I see no point in repeating the description. The only difference is that the plastic bracket (#17) is not placed on the rear, although it is present on the ETK scheme. Obviously, this is just a copied scheme of the front ones. I tried to install it, but it does not lock into the hole at all and does not line up with the guide.


The installation process is also similar to the previous ones. Installed. In the photo, for example, a key for emergency closing is inserted into the drive.


The following photos are just for comparison and information.
On the left is a manual rear window lifter, on the right is an electric rear window lifter


The same, on the other hand


On the left is the front, on the right is the rear electric window lifter


The same, on the other hand


Now I can install the glass and seals.

[e30m3s54turbo]

Please take care. When have time to up date will great see your awesome project!!!

[roguetoaster]

It's nice that you haven't forgotten about me)
There is some progress, I just haven't had time to write about it.
Personal affairs are not very good, I was hospitalized, but on the positive side - now I will have more time to write something) But assembling the car will probably take even longer...

Ah, unfortunate, but I hope your recovery goes well and I look forward to the next update whenever you can get to it.

[The_Glory]

Getting anywhere on the build? Hope you are personally doing okay.

It's nice that you haven't forgotten about me)
There is some progress, I just haven't had time to write about it.
Personal affairs are not very good, I was hospitalized, but on the positive side - now I will have more time to write something) But assembling the car will probably take even longer...

[roguetoaster]

Getting anywhere on the build? Hope you are personally doing okay.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_46. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing

We continue the section:
Body equipment

Its first subdivision:
Glazing


Three types of glass were available for the E30:
- ordinary transparent
- heat-insulating green Gruen (marking G)
- heat-insulating brown Gold Bronze (marking B)

In addition, the windshield (#1) could still have a green sun protection strip in the upper part. The rear window (No. 5) is always heated. But I will write about the windshield and rear glass later, since they will be installed almost last, after assembling the interior and lining the roof.
So, now we will talk only about door glass (#2, 3, 4). It differs (except for "deaf" No. 4) for cars manufactured before April 1988 and after April 1988. This is due to differences in the design of window regulators and doors. These two types of glass and window lifters are not interchangeable and can only be used in accordance with each other.
Of course, I have a sample glass before April 1988. With option S350A - heat-insulating green Gruen. It was tinted with a dark film by the previous owner. In addition, brown glass was installed in the rear right door instead of green. The tinting hid the color difference a bit, but of course I bought green glass instead of brown. I will say right away that the rear glass was also brown, but it will also be replaced with a green one, the front one will be new, also green, but more on that later.
All my door kit


A set of greens


Of course, I removed the toning film, as it was damaged in places, and almost completely burned out in the sun. Here you can see the difference.


And in general, I decided to leave the glass in the factory green color, according to the configuration according to the VIN.
The brown glass of the rear right door is not found often, someone may need it.


Although, for some reason, there is no "B" marking on it, but it is definitely brown.


By the way, together with the doors, I got one glass of a sample after April 1988. Also green, but with a different mount.


Interesting stickers remained on it, and some number engraving, something like a security system.


The next photo clearly shows the difference between the glass before 88 and after 88 - the different location of the mounting brackets and the different shape of the lower face of the glass.


On the left - until 1988 - the lower edge with "stepped" protrusions. On the right - after 88 years - the lower edge is straight. Similarly, the rear door glass.

So, the toning film was removed. It was very easy to remove the glue from some glass, and it was very difficult to wash off the glue from others. However, the glass was completely washed and polished a little for a better shine.
Front


Rear



If you look closely, you can see that the two glasses have a different manufacturer's marking - SEKURIT.


In addition to color, there were several different options of glass manufacturers. Fortunately, the shade of color is the same among different manufacturers, so they can be combined with each other. All the glass has the same color marking G. Although, it would be good to find two more glasses so that they are all from the same SOLIVER manufacturer. If I find them, I will replace them. The marking can also identify the country for which the glass was made. In my case, it is E1 - Germany, and E6 - Belgium. Apparently, my car came to Ukraine from Belgium... although, not a fact)

To install the glass, of course, you must first install the window lifters, guides and window seals. More on that later.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_45. ETK_41_Body (Front wing)

Next about the front wings. Section again:
Body

Unit:
Front wing




Part Home is the front fender, which is the same for all E30s except the convertible and M3. But there are two types - without a hole for a side turn signal, and with a hole for a side turn signal. I had fenders without holes, but still I installed side turn indicators, but I will tell you about this "upgrade" or "kolkhoz" later :)
Part Forum - plastic protective shields.



Details #3-4 - self-tapping screws and built-in wing fasteners. Self-tapping screws No. 3 4.8x16 are placed along the top of the wing, 7 pcs. , and 2 pcs. on the rack of the body on each side. Self-tapping screws No. 5 4.8x13 connect the wing to the front apron, 1 pc. on each side.
Detail No. 6 - insert for self-tapping screw No. 3, 2 pcs. on each side. It is placed in the front part and connects the protective shields with the front plastic shields.
Detail No. 7 - plastic insert for self-tapping screw No. 3, 2 pcs. on each side. Attaches protective shields to the body.
Part No. 8 - plastic nut, 2 pcs. on each side. Fastens the protective shields to the studs on the body.
Part No. 9 is a rubber seal. Only used with the short hood seal I wrote about last time. If a long hood gasket is installed, Albums gaskets are not used.
On the left side, I have it cut into three parts - to install the automatic oil refill tank. By the way, an interesting nuance - after I thoroughly washed the hood and fender seals, I saw blue paint on them, very similar to mine. But this is definitely not my paint. Apparently they are from the same blue E30 - an interesting coincidence ;) I will, of course, wash off the paint.



Parts #10, 14-16 - are used only for the convertible.
Parts #11-13 - used only for M3.
Part E30 Technical Forums - additional rubber seal (51 71 2 233 121 and 51 71 2 233 122), which is glued to the wing, is used only for M3 EVO3. Maybe someday later I will also order them.

I installed the wings "temporarily" - only on a few upper self-tapping screws, and connected them to the front apron.




After all the gaps on all the body parts are set, the wings will be finally fixed on top with a sealant, as it was done at the factory - to prevent water from getting under the hood. All plastic guards will also be installed.
But more on that later. It remains to finish the assembly of the doors, and it will be possible to set gaps on all body parts. The work will be painstaking.
There are delays again with electroplating.
Also with the painting of the "shadow line" overlays - almost a month passed, the painter got sick and did nothing. Took them away, I guess I'll have to paint them myself. At the same time, I am engaged in wiring.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_44. ETK_41_Body (hood)

Finally, about the hood. Section again:
Body

Unit:
Hood drive




Detail No. 1 - a cable with a handle.
Detail No. 2 and No. 3 - two self-tapping screws with inserts for fastening the handle.
Detail Groups - tip. I don't know what it is. I did not find any information about him or a photo. No longer available to order. If someone knows what it is and where it goes, write.
Detail No. 5 - hood lock. There is a small nuance. The lock mechanism should have a white plastic insert, for softer operation of the spring, as in the photo below.


But, as a rule, it is no longer there - it wears out or is lost. By the way, this can be the same tip Groups I think so...
Detail No. 6 - two self-tapping screws for fastening the lock.
Part No. 7 - plastic protective cover of the lock mechanism.
Part No. 8 - rubber hood buffer 2 pcs.

I installed the hood drive a long time ago. Mine had a torn rubber insert, so I bought another one with a whole insert. We remove the lock mechanism from the cable and pull the cable from the cabin under the hood. Fasten the handle with two self-tapping screws.


Once again, I pay attention - the rubber insert must be intact, otherwise when water gets from the wing drain, it will flow into the cabin and onto the floor. That is why I additionally filled the insert with a wax preservative. Another nuance - do not put the cable until you put the noise insulation. I put it on, then took it off again. to install noise insulation.


We connect the cable to the lock rod. The photo shows a black soft plastic cap. Found it in the garage and replaced the missing white insert I mentioned above (tip?)



Lubricate the mechanism and cover with a protective cover.


We insert it from the side of the front frame rack and fasten it.


The hole between the bolts is an emergency opening of the hood. If the cable breaks, you can push a long screwdriver through the grill into this hole, press the pull and open the hood. Just don't tell anyone about it! :) And don't bend down too low - you can hit the hood in the forehead! :)


Lock in place. But then it will be necessary to adjust it together with the hood.


We screw rubber buffers into special holes under the front corners of the hood. Their height also needs to be adjusted with the hood.


We proceed to the assembly of the hood.
Hood




Detail No. 1 - hood. Apparently, this is one of the few body parts that are the same for all E30s. My hood has already been in an accident, it was straightened, puttyed, and not very smooth. So I replaced it with a whole one.
Parts #2-8 and Photoshop & Media - hood opening limiter and its fastening.

The ETK does not specify the size of the lower washer (#4), so I took them the same - 8 mm. But then I replaced the lower washer 8 with a washer 10, because it did not fit on the axle.


Part No. 25 is a plastic spacer (51 23 1 906 523), which is bent in half and placed in the ear on the hood.


Part No. 22 and No. 23 - hood shock absorber and its fastening.
We screw the limiter to the body, and fix it with a pin to the hood.



We put the shock absorber and fix it with pins. Lubricate the axles with grease for locks.


Now, when the hood is held without any supports, you can put other parts.
We put staples No. 17 on the body.
There is one interesting detail in ETK that I have never seen on cars - bracket E34/E28 Forums (51 23 1 881 788). I ordered it out of curiosity. The bracket shown in the photo above arrived. Judging by its design, it fits into the holes on the left bracket of the hood and holds its cable.


But here I have a conflict of interest! :) In this place, I will already have the end of the hood for the standard alarm system. Therefore, this bracket will have to be moved forward.


Here's what happened.



I tried it on the car, and it didn't turn out very well - it doesn't reach the cable. Well, it will be so, don't throw it away...


Right side


We put rollers General Discussion and elastic stops Members Rides


We put on the hood seal No. 27. It comes in two types - short (51 71 1 933 992) 1520MM, and long (51 71 1 919 961) 3020MM, which extends laterally to the wings. I have a short one.


Details No. 13-16 - hood torsions. Mine were in bad shape with a lot of wear and play. There are no repair kits for them, so I replaced them with a good kit from the last years of production. Now the difference is very noticeable - the hood does not have lateral backlash, and it opens much better.


The same photo shows rubber stops No. 27 (51 23 1 916 567). I didn't have them before. They also significantly soften the work of torsions.

And one more detail, which is not shown in this section of ETK, but it is attached to the hood, so I am writing about it here - the hood "grounding" cable (65 31 1 286 068) to reduce radio interference.


Sound insulation remains, which I recently wrote about. I will briefly repeat here.
Details #9-12 - sound insulation glued to the hood.


Part No. 28 - damper gasket of the hood, which is attached to clips No. 29 (18 pcs.)


The hood is fully assembled. Then it will be necessary to adjust it according to the gaps, and the lock with staples.

Next will be about the front fenders, and then we need to finish the doors. The missing clips and plugs arrived today. But with galvanic delay... Therefore, it will probably be about wiring again. Let's see...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_43. ETK_61_Washer parts

Before putting the damper gasket on the hood, you need to install the windshield washer hoses and nozzles. Go to the section:
General electrical equipment of the car

Washer parts

I have a top-of-the-line system installed - with intensive cleaning of the windshield and with heated nozzles. The set also includes a headlight washer and cleaner. Therefore, now I will focus only on the parts that are placed in the hood, and I will write about everything else in the appropriate section. By the way, for some reason, the details of intensive cleaning are not specified in the ETK at all.


So - nozzles, hoses and wiring.




Part No. 9 - hose D= 4.6MM for a system with intensive cleaning requires 2 pcs.
Detail No. 10 - ordinary nozzles.
Item No. 11 - heated nozzles.
Detail No. 12 - nozzle heating wiring. Before restyling and after restyling, it differs in connectors. I have wiring after restyling, so I redid the corresponding connector on the body wiring. Heating works when the ignition is on.
Part No. 14 - wire holder (12 42 1 284 411), white clip for hose and wiring 2 pcs.
Part No. 15 - valve (61 66 1 374 978) for a system with intensive cleaning requires 2 pcs.
Part No. 16 - wire holder. For a system with intensive cleaning, you need (61 13 1 267 476) D=12.8MM green 2 pcs. and (12521276147) D=16.8MM blue 2 pcs.
Detail General Discussion - corner fitting. For a system with intensive cleaning, 4 pcs.

Hoses for standard cleaning and intensive cleaning are connected to the nozzles in parallel through tees (2 pcs.), which are not shown in the diagram, and corner fittings (4 pcs.). They are fixed with clips with wiring and attached to the hood. The nozzles are inserted into the hood and connected to the wiring. For the hoses on the damper gasket of the hood, a special stamping is provided, which closes them.


Hoses and wiring run along the hood ribs. I used a flexible steel wire for this.


They are brought out in the lower corner of the hood and attached with clips to the hood and to the body. In the same place, the "minus" wiring terminal is screwed to the hood bolt.


Hoses and wiring are led to the place of installation of the tank.


Injectors, hoses and wiring installed.


I will write about other parts of the washer in the section on headlight cleaner.
Next will be about the hood.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_42. ETK_51_Body equipment. Soundproofing

To continue assembling the front part of the body, namely the hood, it is necessary to first install some other elements on it.

I'll start with sound insulation.

Body equipment

I already wrote about one section on sound insulation earlier. Today we will consider the second section on sound insulation

Sound Insulation


Details #1-4 - sound insulation of the hood. For some reason, I didn't have it at all on the old hood. On the new one, it, like most, was in a state of junk. So I tore off her remains, and the glue from her remained. There was no time to wash it, it was necessary to take the hood to body work. Then I forgot about the glue and gave the car for painting. The hood was painted there, along with glue...


The fool came out, of course. :) But we have what we have.
On top of the old glue, the sound insulation will not hold, therefore, it is now necessary to somehow remove this glue with paint. I bought a special rubber wheel.


I will say right away - after the first attempt, I realized that it is not very suitable for such purposes. Therefore, I decided to act in stages. The first stage is a hair dryer and a spatula. The second stage is a rubber circle. The third stage is solvent and rags. The fourth stage is painting in body color.


Spent the whole day on it. It's just some kind of horror, not glue!
1 stage


2 stage (as I already said - the result after the rubber circle is doubtful)


3 stage


4th stage


If I painted even the bottom, the hood should be blue too! :) But because of the light soil with which I covered the scratches, it turned out with spots - I told you that I'm not a very good painter! :)


But it is not critical - it will still be closed with sound insulation.

Now the isolation itself. It is available to order (51 48 8 103 798), but I did not like the price of 60 euros. That's why I bought 1 meter of similar material for 5 euros, made templates from the old hood and cut it out.




Maybe not as perfect as in the original, but the functionality is the same.


Especially since it will still be covered with a damping gasket (#5). Such a gasket was installed on diesel cars, on some 325i and on the M3. Mine was very dirty and rubbed off in several places. Therefore, I washed it with chemicals and glued it a little on the inside.


But painted it with black matte paint.


18 clips Special (51 48 1 938 725 or 51 48 1 915 964) are required for fastening.


Previously, I had some other clips, so this trim did not hold tightly to the hood, which may be why it rubbed in places.
There are several different numbers of this gasket in ETK. In my case, it is 51 48 1 922 449, for cars of 84-87 - what is needed.


By the way, in the photo, clips 51 48 1 938 725 - look more beautiful than 51 48 1 915 964.

All sound insulation of the hood is installed.


But there are also other details in this subdivision.



Part No. 7 - soundproofing of the threshold front left (51 48 1 911 387) and right (51 48 1 911 388)
Part No. 8 - soundproofing of the rear threshold, left (51 48 1 911 389) and right (51 48 1 911 390)
I also cut these parts from similar material based on the pattern from my old parts. The material is similar to building waterproofing.
Part No. 9 - soundproofing of the compartment for small items (51 48 1 913 064). A foam insert that is placed around the gear box lever.



Part No. 10 - soundproofing of the partition of the luggage compartment (51 48 1 911 852). Cape made of felt. Just cleaned it. By hand, and very carefully, because it tears easily.


Part No. 11 - soundproofing of the rear shelf (51 46 1 929 488). I'm not sure about the number here. For me, it consists of three separate parts. The left and right parts of the "music lovers" were slightly cut when larger speakers were installed.


On top it was covered with another overlay. I'm not sure how it should be, but so be it.



So, in terms of sound insulation, only floor insulation remained. But first you need to lay all the wiring.

P.S.
Maybe someone will need my vibration and sound insulation templates.


The first 1:1 scale file for printing full-size patterns on a plotter.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oZwGiHdJKw-HOdbOV_TAMqAdu_Xasbtx/view?usp=share_link

The second file is at a scale of 1:5 for printing pattern drawings on a printer.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9K6W-aDgJmvGpJ99KN3EgfO2hKGDefu/view?usp=share_link

[The_Glory]

I don't think I've ever seen the tow eye seal for whatever reason. For black parts you do end up painting, SEM Trim Black seems to be about a perfect match for original paint, of course you may have already mentioned this in the thread.

Unfortunately, this paint is not sold in Ukraine. Buying it on eBay is too difficult, time-consuming and expensive. There are similar analogues here. And in fact, I ordered a similar acrylic paint based on the computer selection in the color of the original overlay. I hope it will be the right color...

[roguetoaster]

I don't think I've ever seen the tow eye seal for whatever reason. For black parts you do end up painting, SEM Trim Black seems to be about a perfect match for original paint, of course you may have already mentioned this in the thread.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_41. ETK_41_Body (front part)

There were some unforeseen difficulties with the upper lining of the trunk, so I will write about it a little later. For now, I will return to the ETK_41 section Bodywork

This time I will start from the beginning of the chapter. :)

Body frame


Here is such a beautiful body frame of a 4-door sedan with a sunroof (41 00 1 942 099), after it has been painted.


Front fascia




Parts #1-6, 12, 17 are the front body frame.
Part No. 7 - front apron bar (41 33 1 884 353), which is a separate part for cars up to 85 years old, and is attached to the apron with self-tapping screws and insert plates.
Part No. 8 - front apron for cars up to 85 years old (41 33 1 916 986). It is also called "oblique", because of the characteristic slope, as on older "sharks".
For 85-87 cars, the front apron and its bar are one part, (41 33 1 933 770), or with additional slots for air conditioning and for diesel cars (41 33 1 933 772). This apron is called "straight", because of its more vertical appearance in profile.
For cars after restyling in 1987, the apron is completely different (41 33 1 961 225) or with additional slots for the air conditioner (41 33 1 961 227)
In my case, a "straight" apron for a 325i from 85-87, with slots for an air conditioner (41 33 1 933 772).
Details #9-11 - fastening of the apron - self-tapping screws and insert plates.


Two self-tapping screws on the vertical posts of the front frame, and two on its lower part. Two more on the edges at the junction of the wing and apron bar.
The apron is installed temporarily, it will still be necessary to adjust all the gaps, and then it will already be fixed.


Details #13-15 - fasteners for the air conditioner. Therefore, I will write about them in the section on air conditioning.
Part No. 16 - rubber seals for towing loops. Left (51 71 1 916 185) and right (51 71 1 916 186).



They are tightly inserted between the apron and the spar.




Parts Regional Forums and E34/E28 Forums - not used - this is a towing eye for E30 M3 only.

The following section:
Front body parts

As you can see, this is the entire front part of the body. Also shown here are diffusers for blowing through the radiator and clips for their attachment.
Parts Forum and Blogs are not used.
Part No. 5 - for cars without air conditioning, and clip No. 4 for its fastening.
Part No. 6 and No. 7 - for cars with air conditioning, and clips No. 8 for its fastening.
I have so far only clips Private Messages (51 48 1 915 964). You need 4 pieces, and a whole pack arrived. :) Shields must be bought. But I will write about them in the section on air conditioning.


Details Albums and #10 - only for M3.

The next section is basically the same front part of the body, but in detail. Some of the parts are still available to order.
Wheel arch/spar


Everything is assembled.



Section on small parts and brackets.
Front fender details




Since all these parts are welded to the body, there is no point in talking about them separately - they are all in their places.


And it is worth writing about plugs.
Part E34/E28 Forums - plug (51 71 1 911 299) D=6.9MM.


Two plugs in the holes on the platform for the battery. They are installed only on cars with a battery in the trunk, instead of a plastic spacer (61 21 1 350 825), which serves as an additional stop when installing the battery under the hood.


Item No. 20 - I mentioned it earlier. Plug in motor shield. Apparently, this is another mistake in ETK - there is a plug D=35MM, but in fact, there is a 20mm hole. That's why I put the same plug there as in the trunk - 51 71 1 801 066.


Part Members Rides - oval plug (51 71 1 872 829) 30X36MM, used only on cars with automatic transmission. Two such plugs are placed in the holes instead of the clutch cylinder hoses. Not used in this case.
Part General Technical - plug (51 71 1 972 464) D=52MM. Everything is correct here with the diameter - it is a large hole above the platform for the battery (in the photo above), through which the motor wiring passes. I don't understand what the plug is for. Not used in this case. Hole under the battery terminal:


Another section on small parts and brackets.
Front bracket


These details are also in their places. In addition to details #10-13. This is a steering column spacer for cars with an airbag. I probably won't be putting this option on my car, so it won't be used for now. And if I do decide to bet, I will write about it in the appropriate section.


P.S.
Several new bags have arrived for further assembly.



And several bags went to electroplating


I am also waiting for all the "shadow line" elements to be painted. I didn't risk painting it myself, because as practice has shown, I'm not a very good painter :) I chose the color from the selection of paints - semi-matte black. It should be beautiful - as in the original. ;)