E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

I'm glad you found it interesting and useful. I hope that my next posts will also be useful.

[mjweimer]

I love following along with this build thread. Many thanks for posting all of the part numbers along with the pictures and excellent description, this is a fantastic reference for all these small bits and pieces are not clearly defined in the ETK.

Keep up the progress, have fun and stay safe brother.

[The_Glory]

Yes, I totally agree - wiring is extremely time consuming. But I like to do it, so I do everything slowly and as carefully as possible. It is nice to get beautiful harnesses instead of piles of tangled wires. And there is not much left, I'm just writing with some lag behind real things.
Now, the delivery time of new original parts also takes a lot of time. My final order, which I placed on December 1st, should arrive tomorrow. But I'm making progress little by little...

[roguetoaster]

It's just amazing how fast everything comes together after you get the wiring sorted out, but it's a long road to get through repinning and double checking wiring setup.

Glad you can still get enough parts to keep the build going.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_32. ETK_61_Different additional wiring sets.

Various additional wiring sets


Recently, I already wrote about this section of ETK, or rather about one item from it - No. 3. Now I will continue about other positions:

No. 1 - interior lighting wiring (to lampshades and "ends" of doors) - 61 12 1 373 554.


The wiring to the left and right shades is the same. In addition, I made similar wiring for the third shade, which I installed a long time ago, near the interior mirror, instead of the plug. I don't know - why wasn't this done at the factory?

No. 2 - wiring of the speed sensor, wear of the brake pads (with a separate harness). On my car, it is replaced by Blogs

No. 3 - wiring of the speed sensor, fuel level and brake pad wear sensor (additional tank fuel level sensor, as an option). I have already written about her before.

No. 4 - wiring of the automatic fuse of electric windows - 61 12 1 370 980.


Power cord for electric windows through the fuse button. The button blocks the operation of all electric windows.

No. 5 - wiring of the comfort relay of the electric windows (operation of the electric windows when the ignition is off and the driver's door is open) - 61 12 1 376 064.

Relay:

Found another one, without a relay.


No. 6 - wiring for daytime running lights (not sure, but it seems that the option of daytime running lights was provided for Scandinavian countries). I don't have one.

No. 7 - front door repair wiring (left and right). I don't have a repair room either, but there is a standard one, more about it later.

Private Messages - Diode (I don't know what kind of diode it is)

No. 9 - wiring of the pyro cartridge of the airbag (for cars with an airbag). I don't have it yet, but maybe soon. Although, I will not put an airbag - just for the collection of options.

No. 10 - wiring of the interior lighting delay timer (turning off the light in the interior after closing the door with a delay of several seconds) - 61 12 1 380 379.

Relay:

In the photo, the wiring is woven separately. I have wiring in the "top" configuration, so the same wiring is woven into the wiring harness of the central lock, so I will also write about it later.

No. 11 - I did not find it, it is probably not used

The next subdivision.
Various additional wiring sets


No. 1 - heater wiring. I will have an air conditioner, so the wiring will be different - about it in the appropriate section.

No. 2 - electric sunroof wiring - 61 12 1 369 295.

Relay:

By the way, this relay has an interesting marking of the contacts - in colors, according to the color of the wires:



No. 3 - wiring of an additional electric fan. I will have an air conditioner, so the wiring will be different - about it in the appropriate section.

No. 4 - wiper wiring. In mine, of course, it is part of the main wiring, and is connected to the fuse box.


No. 5 - airbag wiring (for cars with an airbag). I don't have it yet, but maybe soon. Although, I will not put an airbag - just for the collection of options.

That's it for additional wires. I will write about their installation together with the installation of all wiring.
Next time I will write about the so-called "electric package" - electric windows, electric sunroof, electric mirrors, central locking, interior lighting timer, and heating of the driver's lock.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_31. ETK_61_Wire contacts clamp

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section Общее е/оборудование автомобиль

We will talk about the "general" subdivisions of ETK, in which numerous wires, connectors, contacts, foams, clamps, clips and other wiring fasteners are listed. I don't see the point in writing everything in detail on each pin, so I'll just write what and how I use when repairing and restoring the wiring.

Wire


When replacing or supplementing wiring, I use original wires from donor pieces of E30, E34 and newer BMW wiring. I choose the wires according to the colors given in the ETK. Although wires of many colors can still be ordered new, but I don't see the point in this.


Connector plug housing


I also take some connectors and pins from them from donor wiring. There are a lot of their standard sizes in ETK, so it is difficult to understand their numbers and quantities - it is easier to take and try on in fact. In addition, many of them are no longer available to order, or are unreasonably expensive.
My main problem (like most) is with the door connectors. Therefore, I bought several such donor connectors, as well as a C302 connector for additional equipment to equip my own, and a C103 connector. I bought another set of pin removers because they are not very strong.


A small offtop - I will show, using the example of donor connectors, how some people repair and "upgrade" the wiring ;) After such wonderful electricians, then the devil will break his leg in that wiring :)
For example, judging by everything, this is the docking of the restyle wiring with the connector to the restyle - everything is simple - everything was cut off, and then everything was soldered. They didn't hear about the replacement of pins :) So this black cuttlefish came out:



Now the door connector is amazing - the wires of the central lock are all in one twist - and for grounding! )) And a bunch of amazing twists of different colors!

And the "logical" continuation - the red wire through the insert with two turns to the factory brown ground wire! ) How it somehow worked there - I can't imagine! ))


The only normal C302 connector was simply cut off.


So, back to my wiring. I washed, cleaned, cut off all the "masterpiece" twists, and prepared donor connectors, foam removers, and new flat contacts.


As I said, the main problems I had were with the door connector. As practice shows, almost everyone has such a problem - the rubber corrugation from old age allows water to flow down the rack, the contacts oxidize and eventually rot completely. Especially those with constant power. Because of this, these connectors are difficult to remove, and especially when people do not know how to remove them, and disassemble them in an absolutely barbaric way. Judging by the condition of those that I saw - they are practically torn out. So, I will show how to disassemble them correctly and carefully - maybe someone will need it.
First, it is good to fill the connector with WD-40 or something similar. Wait, and then sort it out. Remove the rubber corrugation, press the two lugs on the sides and pull out the door part (No. 14 on the ETK diagram) from the body (No. 15 and No. 16). Next, carefully press the three latches on the case and squeeze the connector into the niche of the front speaker.
Now, how to disassemble the body connector to replace the pins in it.
Door connector C405 (left) and C404 (right) are structurally similar, and consist of three parts (although for some reason only two are shown in the ETK)
No. 15 - outer case - 61 13 1 380 587
No. 16 - inner case - 61 13 1 375 690
lining of the inner case



To get to the pins, press the two latches on the sides.


We push them up along the guides


We pull out the lining of the inner case, and we already have access to the pins.

But it is much more convenient to change the pin by separating the inner case from the outer one. To do this, from the side of the wiring, insert two thin screwdrivers into the grooves on the sides, press the latches with them, and pull out the inner housing. Fully disassembled door body connector.


By the way, 4 pins remain in the outer case. This is done, for convenience, to separate the main wiring and the wiring of various additional options. I will write about this in the corresponding section with a detailed explanation.


When replacing pre-styling headlights with restyling ones with lenses, you need to change all their connectors. This time I did everything properly, without the "kolkhoz". Maybe someone will also find it useful:
The body of the connector is straight:
61131378400 straight black
61131378401 straight white (high beam)
61131378402 straight gray (sidelight)
61131378403 direct yellow (low beam)
A straight pin with a piece of wire:
61130007441 straight thin (0.5-1.0mm2)
61130007442 straight thick (1.0-2.5mm2)

Corner connector body:
61131378416 angular black
61131378417 corner white (main beam)
61131378418 corner gray (sidelight)
61131378419 corner yellow (low beam)
Corner pin with a piece of wire:
61130007445 angular thin (0.5-1.0mm2)
61130007446 corner thick (1.0-2.5mm2)

I will write about all other connectors and pins that I will change or add as the case progresses, in the appropriate sections.

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/vehicle_electrical_system/various_parts_wiring_harness_repair/']Various Parts for Wiring Repair[/URL ]


Everything is simple here - Tesa insulating tape, which comes in the original - PVC, fabric and Mylar, heat shrink and matches :)

I wrap the harnesses with insulating tape without gaps - I like it better that way.


Кабельные зажимы


I collected all the fasteners for wiring - judging by the photos on the Internet, different clamps were used in different years, so I will put them at my discretion. The quantity in ETK is not indicated, so I will watch as the case progresses - I hope that it will be enough.


Item No. 1 - plastic staples for wiring of different diameters and corresponding colors. Sold at any auto store.
Detail Forum - I don't know what it is for, I didn't find it. If anyone knows, please let me know.
Detail No. 3 - clamps for fastening the wiring along the thresholds. In each threshold, I counted 11 holes suitable for their installation. But I think that at least 5-6 pieces for each side will be enough.
Detail No. 4 - a clamp for fastening the wiring. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on later machines.
Detail No. 5 - bracket for door wiring. At least I had him there.
Detail No. 6 - a clamp for attaching the wiring to the openings of the body. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on earlier machines. The older ones have the shape of "herringbone trees", and the newer ones have the shape of "ladders". About 10 pieces are needed.
Detail No. 7 - a clamp for attaching the wiring to the studs of the body. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on earlier machines. The older ones have the shape of "herringbone trees", and the newer ones have the shape of "ladders". About 20 pieces are needed.
Detail No. 8 - a clamp for attaching the wiring to the studs of the body. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on earlier machines. I had them installed outside under the bottom. According to ETK, for some reason they have the same number with clamps #7, although in fact they are different.
Part No. 9 - ordinary screed 4.8/300mm
Detail No. 10 - a clamp for fastening the wiring. I did not find such a thing. Probably something similar to the blue collar in the photo. If anyone knows, please let me know.
Part No. 11 is a clamp for attaching the wiring to the torpedo. The older ones have the shape of "herringbone trees", and the newer ones have the shape of "ladders". About 10 pieces are needed.
Item No. 12, 13, 14 - metal staples of different diameters.
Part No. 15 - a clamp for fastening the wiring. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on later machines.
Part No. 16 - was not used.
Part No. 17 is a bracket for attaching C103 and C302 wiring connectors. It was used on cars before restyling.
Part No. 18 - a bracket for fastening the wiring. It was used on cars after restyling, it was put in place of part E30 Technical Forums
Part No. 19 is a bracket for attaching C103 and C302 wiring connectors. It was used on cars after restyling.
Part No. 20 - was not used.
Part No. 21 is a plastic nut with lugs for wiring.

That's it with "common" units.
Details about wiring and its installation in the following sections.

[The_Glory]

Lately, because of the damned Muscovites, I have been dealing with urgent household chores - alternative and autonomous lighting, power supply and heating. It took quite a lot of time and money, so again the progress on the assembly is not significant at all. Mainly also on electricity.

Assembly_30. ETK_61_Battery

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section Общее е/оборудование автомобиль

The following subsection BMW battery. with electrolyte


According to ETK, 65Ah batteries were installed on the 325i, but I had 70Ah. My battery completely died after several years of idleness in the garage. Tried to charge it, but to no avail. So just a photo for a picture :)


Now, because of these blackouts, is not the best time to buy a battery or generator - the prices are inadequate. Maybe a little later I will buy a new one. I haven't decided yet - whether it's an original BMW or just an Exide that comes in the original.

In addition to the battery itself, there should also be its fastening. I didn't have it before, and the battery was just lying at the bottom of the right trunk compartment. Of course, I have now fixed it and installed all the necessary parts.

Battery


Parts Blogs and #10 come with the new battery, so they are not in the photo yet. Parts #8, Albums and plastic spacer #11 are fasteners used only when installing the battery under the hood. Part #13, apparently, is not used at all on the E30.

So, the mounting kit includes tank #4, gas discharge hose #5, hose fitting #12, pallet Special and bolt with plate Visitor Messages


There are nuances in some details.
Tank No. 4 for before restyling and after restyling is different. By 87 (61 21 1 374 963) it is much smaller, but it is no longer available for ordering. After year 87 (61 21 1 376 693), the tank is larger and serves as an additional support for the pallet. In addition, it is easier to find, and it fits normally on pre-restyling cars, so I don't see the point in looking for tanks specifically for pre-restyling.


In the photo, you can see another piece of white foam - it is not by chance ;) But according to ETK, it is in another section, so I will write about it there. In short, it is also an additional support for the pallet. Although it looks like a "collective farm", this is a factory solution to a problem that was probably not taken into account right away. :) Although, I'm not 100% sure about this, but I can't imagine any other use for it... If someone has it left from the factory and it's somehow misplaced, or in the wrong place - please correct me.


But this is what the problem itself looks like - without this support, the mounting eye on the pallet breaks under the weight of the battery.



As practice shows, this is how most of these pallets look on pre-restyling cars, because that foam has not been preserved. Perhaps that is why they made a larger tank on the restyling, so that it would be a support for the pallet. By the way, pallets for restyling and restyling differ precisely in this eye. Someone already glued my pallet, but it was very unsuccessful - it did not even fit into its place. That's why I redid everything - it doesn't look perfect, but it performs its function well. The hole had to be slightly enlarged, because the pin was not welded exactly. Maybe later I will buy a new one.



Another point that is not clear - there is no rubber seal in the ETK instead of the body plug, for installing the tank. The diameter of the hole in the body is much larger than the diameter of the tank nozzle. I don't know, maybe the hole in the body is smaller on the restyling, but I selected the size of the rubber plug, cut a hole for the nozzle in it, and it all fit perfectly and tightly on the body. By the way, I also did not find smaller plugs in the left and right trunk niches in ETK, so I also simply selected them by size in a car store. This is what it looks like from below.


The hose (61 21 1 377 745) is sold by 1 meter, although half will be enough.

Fastener No. 7 (61 21 7 564 274) consists of three parts, but each of which must be ordered separately:
61 21 7 564 274 - plate 1 pc.
61 21 7 577 620 - bolt 1 pc.
07 14 9 158 226 - locking washer 1 pc.

The bolt is inserted into the plate, then a locking washer is screwed onto it, which prevents the plate from jumping off the bolt.


And the last nuance - the ETK does not show the bolt, washers and nuts that are used to fasten the pallet - one M8 bolt, three 8 washers and two M8 nuts.

Battery mounting assembly.


All that remains is to buy and install a new battery.

[The_Glory]

Just read through this whole thread. Awesome work on this considering your situation, the attention to detail is great! The rear trunk relocation for the battery you provided is pretty useful to as I'll be doing the same in the near future.

Thank you.
I'm glad you found it interesting and useful.
By the way, next time I will probably write in detail about battery mounting and trunk linings for it.

[The_Glory]

I was wondering if you were still working or had to take a pause because of the targeting of infrastructure by you know who. Anyway, glad you are still moving forward.

I think the second hole in the strut would be for a hydraulic line, possibly for some rare option like four wheel self leveling or adjustable suspension. Yeah, early cars had no option to have ABS, not sure when the first month and year was when you could get it.

Yes, I'm moving forward little by little, but if it wasn't very fast before, now it's very slow. I didn't think it would take so long, but there were many reasons for it. Including those not dependent on me. Now the main thing is to survive this damn war.

But let's go back to the e30) I forgot about the wiring of the brake pad sensor - it seems that the second groove on the rack is just for it. And on the right side, probably just for symmetry, or for Great Britain)

[Holland]

Just read through this whole thread. Awesome work on this considering your situation, the attention to detail is great! The rear trunk relocation for the battery you provided is pretty useful to as I'll be doing the same in the near future.

[roguetoaster]

I was wondering if you were still working or had to take a pause because of the targeting of infrastructure by you know who. Anyway, glad you are still moving forward.

I think the second hole in the strut would be for a hydraulic line, possibly for some rare option like four wheel self leveling or adjustable suspension. Yeah, early cars had no option to have ABS, not sure when the first month and year was when you could get it.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_29. ETK_61_Wire bundles (Battery)

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section General electrical equipment of the vehicle

Next subsection Wire bundles (Battery)


On all diesel and top models of the E30, the battery was located in the right niche of the trunk - for better weight distribution between the axles.
My car also had it in the trunk, but it wasn't done quite right. The "plus" terminal was not screwed in its place, but on the platform for the battery under the hood, the "minus" terminal was also not screwed to the rear fender, but to the rear bumper attachment, and the battery itself in the niche was not fixed in any way and just lay there on a piece of paralon and a cover that goes over the tank. Of course I fixed it all and made it the way it should be. Everything was cleaned, fasteners were galvanized, what was missing was replaced with stainless steel.


Parts Home and Forum are not used, they are for cars with a battery under the hood.
The set includes the main cable with a thin duplicate wire (#3), cable to the starter (#4), "minus" terminal (#5), "ground" wire to the engine (#6), terminal bracket with a cover (#7- 9), M6 fasteners for the internal hexagon (#10, 11), plastic protective cover (#12), rubber sleeve (#13) and 50A fuse (#14).
The ETC diagram does not show the attachment of the terminal bracket - three M6 bolts with nuts and washers, the attachment of the "minus" terminal and the "ground" wire - an M8 bolt and nut with washers.
So, let's start with the front. We treat the hole for the cable with wax, and install a rubber sleeve (#13) together with the cable (#3) into it. The terminal bracket (No. 7-9) must be installed after installing the noise insulation of the motor shield. It is also important not to forget to insert three M6 bolts into it first. I forgot. :) I had to unscrew it. The bracket is attached to the holes with two bolts under the internal hexagon and nuts on the other side (No. 10, 11).



A duplicate thin wire is screwed to the upper pin, and the main cable is pressed to the two lower ones.


By the way, the thin and main cables are parallel and come from the same terminal. The 50A fuse (No. 14) is located only on a thin wire - in its rear part, under the casing.


We screw the cable to the starter (#4) to the terminal of the main cable (#3)


We put a plastic cover on the terminals and close it.


That's all under the hood at this stage.


The starter cable has a protective corrugation - check its condition.


In the cabin, we lower the cable to the threshold and lay it along the threshold to the back seat.




Under the rear seat, the cable runs between the body and the pipe for the tank ventilation pipes. A protective corrugation is installed in this place - we check its condition.


Of course the cable will be secured with clips and clamps along with the other wiring after it is installed.

Through the hole in the partition, we lead the cable into the trunk. There it is covered with a protective plastic cover (#12). The cover is inserted into the opening of the partition, and in the rear part is attached to the body pin. It will later be secured with a plastic nut along with the arch guard. This will be discussed in the next post.


The "minus" terminal is screwed to a special bracket on the rear wing.


Everything is ready to install the battery.

The "minus" wire to the engine remains. We screw it to the bracket of the left spar.


I restored mine. He looked like this.


Sanded, covered with zinc and replaced the heat shrink.


By the way, about the "minus" wires - somewhere on the Internet I found a reasonable photo of all of them with a description - thanks to the author.

Here are a bunch of other ground wires that you should also replace while you're at it. In general, you can use any thick wire with a suitable mounting hole, but for those purists at heart:

12-52-1-285-011 Alternator ground cable, however I used it to ground the A/C compressor to the engine block.
12-52-1-312-124 Generator mass cable (red).
12-51-1-714-039 Grounding of the engine to the frame.
65-31-1-286-069 Rocker cover, but instead I used 12-42-7-551-714 with e9x because of the factory 90* bend. Also, it looks a lot nicer =).
12-61-1-311-511 Oil level sensor mass. It attaches to the oil pan which simulates the oil level as our machines do not have a sensor. (for boys m3/s14).
65-31-9-055-973 Radio-protective grounding tape.
65-31-1-286-068 Hood grounding belt.
12-42-7-551-714 from e9x which I used as ground to cover the rocker instead of the ugly 65-31-1-286-069 cable.

Next, about the battery and a little more about the wiring.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_28. ETK_61_ABS wires

There is almost nothing new in the assembly - because of the cursed podarashists, there is light only for a few hours a day, and then in the morning or at night. And since my garage is in the basement, without light, in complete darkness, you can't do anything there... You probably need to make some kind of autonomous "emergency" lighting... That's why I'm writing about what I managed to do a little earlier.

So, we continue the ETK_61 section General electrical equipment of the vehicle

Namely, ABS wires



The ABS system for the BMW E30 was available as an additional option, and for top models it was in the basic configuration. Therefore, in the first case, the ABS wiring was a separate harness connected through connector C302 for additional equipment. And in the second case, the ABS wiring was one whole harness with the main wiring. In my case, the wiring is from the top model 325i, so this is the second option. So, I will write about the main wiring later.
ABS sensors and their mounting in the ETK are shown for some reason not in the same section, but in sections on the chassis. I already mentioned them there.
Front (left and right differ in wire length - the right is longer):


Rear (left and right are the same):


Therefore, there is almost nothing to write about. But there are some nuances regarding the installation and fastening of the sensors.
The ETK diagram shows the fasteners.


Part No. 2 (61 13 1 371 074) - their number is not quite correct in the ETK. For cars with 6-cylinder engines, you need 2 of them - for the left and right front sensors.
And part No. 3 (61 13 1 374 899) is used only on cars with 4-cylinder engines for the left front sensor (photo from the Internet).

And part Forum (61 13 1 371 074) is also used for the right sensor. That is, for 4-cylinder, you need 1 piece of each.
Part No. 4 (61 61 1 356 460) - their number is not correctly indicated in the ETK. You need 2 of them - for the left and right front sensors. They are available to order, but I did not like the price of 25-30 euros per piece - another inadequate price. I did not find analogues. But earlier I ordered similar rubber rings for windshield wipers (61 61 1 353 754). I tried them on - they fit almost perfectly! The difference is 1-2 millimeters in diameter. And the price difference is 3.5 Euro per piece. For me, the pricing logic for these two almost identical parts is not clear :) Of course, I ordered two more 61 61 1 353 754.
Part No. 5 (12 52 1 276 147) - 1 piece, D=16.8 mm (blue). It is available to order, but as it turned out, it can be bought at almost any auto store much cheaper. These are universal staples that fully correspond to the original ones in terms of size and color, depending on the size. They are still used a lot, so I bought them right away with a stock of different ones - gray, green, blue, red, yellow - in order of increasing size.
Part No. 6 is a repair piece of wire with a connector. It seems to me that it is better to buy the entire sensor at once. I bought the rear ones in very good condition, because mine were very damaged in many places.

Therefore, the installation of sensors. Everything is elementary.
Front left.
We clean the seat, insert it as far as it will go, and fasten it with a screw.


We fix the wire with a loop on the rack in a plastic holder and in a metal bracket.


I will say right away that it is not necessary to fix with two loops on the metal bracket, because then the length of the wire is not enough. Then I left only one loop. I don't know why they made two rubber clips and two grooves in the bracket...
We knock out the metal plugs in the body (fortunately, I did it before painting). We treat the hole with wax and install the rubber rings I mentioned above. We pass the wire through them into the engine compartment.


As you can see, the wire is short. Therefore, we leave only one loop on the rack, and pull the wire to the connector holder, which is installed on the body in a special hole.


Everything is also on the right side.




We pull the wire to the connector holder installed on the spar in a special hole. Next, we install a blue bracket for wiring on the right spar.


The front sensors are installed.

It was a little more difficult with the rear ones. My body was manufactured at the end of 1984 under the M10 engine with a carburetor. It seems to me that ABS was not available at all for this configuration. Perhaps that is why there are no holes or plugs for the rear sensors in the body. Previously, the wiring of the sensors was pulled through the holes for the body wiring, due to which they were not sealed and dust and dirt got inside. I forgot to make these holes before painting... I wanted to leave it as it was, but then I still decided to do it as needed. For this, I bought a special drill (a cool thing, by the way), measured the rubber sleeve - it turned out to be slightly larger on the newer sensors than it was on my old ones.


Therefore, the hole had to be drilled larger than was provided for on the vibration isolation. Grinding his teeth out of anger at himself, he began to drill very carefully...


But everything turned out fine :) I treated the holes with zinc, primer and tinted them.


Installing the rear sensors is also very easy.
Rear left.
We clean the seat, insert it as far as it will go, and fasten it with a screw.


We fix the wire on the lever with two plastic clips and a rubber sleeve in the metal bracket of the lever.


We fix the wire on the beam with a plastic bracket. By the way, the fixing points on the wire are marked with white paint.


We treat the hole with wax and install rubber bushings with a wire.

Everything is also on the right side.



We lead the wire with the connector into the cabin under the back seat.


After laying the main wiring with the ABS wiring, it remains only to connect the connectors of the sensors and the hydroblock. The ECU will be installed after the torpedo is installed.

Next, I will probably write a little more about the wiring, and then there will be something about the assembly as well.... The damn Muscovites do not allow you to do anything normally.

[The_Glory]

Yes, and what is interesting - the drawings and numbering of parts are not copied from the original ETK, but apparently created anew.

[roguetoaster]

That bootleg ETK is pretty neat.