e30mclow's e30 #14 - Now 1.5jz + 6 Speed
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Updates
Got some wheels:


Got the iBooster setup finished:
Tiiiiight

Installed the 1000cc injectors and retuned it:
Tried playing with left foot braking and the iBooster:
Binned it lol



I had a spare trailing arm so it was back together the following morning. I then discovered the hub itself was also bent, so I put a new one in last night. Now I think the rotor and/or brake caliper bracket are also bent.
It was quite the hit. The iBooster is far too instantaneous for an uncalibrated left foot. While sideways and intending to gently apply the brake to control rear wheel speed, all four locked in a flash and I hit things that don't move.
Next up will be MK60 ABS, which I'm actually going to hold off on until I commence the next phase of this build, which is completely scrapping it lol
I found a shell with an immaculate roof, whereas mine is beyond fixing. I'm going on 8 years now with this car, which was just a poor but running $1,200 shell, so I'm very much way too far into it for what it is. The running gear deserves better.
I'll be starting a full nut and bolt of this new one soon, along with a full color change, which is exciting!
Last edited by e30mclow; 03-28-2025, 07:28 AM.☕ 1Leave a comment:
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Porsche's are the modern E30..
Nice do see you're keeping the E30 going, Gearbox been good since the repair?Leave a comment:
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For me, in hindsight, it was too aggressive of a clutch pressure plate which killed mine. I inherited the clutch with the donor car, and with it being a $1,000 top shelf item I decided to put up with it for a few years. Daily driving it did the damage. Ironically I've been on a Rock Auto 350z no-name clutch for the last 2-3 years without issues. Absolutely beating on it and it has lasted for only like $275 lolLeave a comment:
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car(s) looks great!! i think all of my 1j friends are now 1.5jz also....its apparently jz ownership rite of passage!!
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Maaaan I need to update this thread soon.
The 1jz developed crank walk, so I went 1.5jz with a 2jz bottom end. I then spun a bearing in that, rebuilt it, and have since gone E85.
I've also moved from Newfoundland, Canada, back to the US - Ohio!
Currently 3.0L bottom end, 1JZ non-vvti head, 650cc injectors, GTX-3576R, Link ECU and Flex Fuel.
Going to step up to 1000cc injectors shortly, after I finish my Bosch iBooster setup.






Also doing Porsche things
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They are a step up in grip alright, but it is an expensive step.nice update! how do you like the 225's in the rear? I was thinking of doing the same soon (actually just noticed there aren't really a lot of "cheap 225/45/16 options stateside anymore). 205/45 rears aren't lasting long at all even with my lower hp setup at drift days and i'm trying my best not to go to 17s
There is no reasonably priced 225/45.
I'm wearing them pretty evenly, which is nice

I am opposed to going to a 17" wheel and going 245, just because of the visuals of 17s.
I ran these for a drift day and it was interesting lol

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nice update! how do you like the 225's in the rear? I was thinking of doing the same soon (actually just noticed there aren't really a lot of "cheap 225/45/16 options stateside anymore). 205/45 rears aren't lasting long at all even with my lower hp setup at drift days and i'm trying my best not to go to 17sLast edited by s14brent; 05-04-2023, 06:58 AM.Leave a comment:
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Almost a year since I've updated this.
Still a beast!
Photo dump:
My CD-009 lost 5th gear at the end of last summer, so I carried on without it until the snow started.
It turned out to be the dog ring or whatever it is called had snapped off of the input/5th gear shaft. To solve this, I bought a 370z shaft (different) from the dealer along with the updated CD-00A synchro. I then used and angle grinder to the get the bearing offset "correct" and was back in business.
A $350 surgical success versus finding a new trans.
Carnage:




This is where the 370z CD-00A shaft has more meat than the CD-009.

CD-009

Grinding

Back together


The engine got a basic refresh and some esthetic changes


OEM style Toyota logo, but with "single" instead of Twin Turbo

I went with a far less aggressive clutch as the Stage 4 item had a painful pressure plate to actuate in traffic.
Cheap 350z item off of Rock Auto for something like $250

I've been clutch kicking 3rd-4th with no complaints so far.

After 20 years of driving e30s sideways, I finally decided to install a hydro. The only reason I did, is because with the engine and trans out, it seemed like the time.
I wanted to keep things OEM-ish, so I chopped up the stock handbrake ratchet and made a quick and dirty bracket using a stick welder, as I was out of gas. The handle is off of an old jack. The master cylinder was laying around from a previous clutch setup.
Total cost, about $40 in fittings.



Works like a dream and keeps the ratchet for parking.
I will be arrested as it is addictive.
I finally made the step away from trying to make a 2 piece driveshaft work. It works great for a few months, then the joints and splines start to fail.

Magnum dong

A Toyota flange is the same PCD at the e30 diff, you just need to modify the seat by like 1-2mm so it centers within the e30 diff recess.


Beefy

The diff then complained in style...


I, a man without machines, then painfully resurfaced the damage



3 new plates and clutches, and it was back into the car.


As of this week it is back on the road and feeling better than ever.

I used the low offset GTAs in front to give allow for max angle on 205/45s, while the et15s in the rear can comfortably allow for the 225/45s.



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