e30mclow's e30 #14 - Now 1.5jz + 6 Speed

[s14brent]

nice update! how do you like the 225's in the rear? I was thinking of doing the same soon (actually just noticed there aren't really a lot of "cheap 225/45/16 options stateside anymore). 205/45 rears aren't lasting long at all even with my lower hp setup at drift days and i'm trying my best not to go to 17s

[e30mclow]

Almost a year since I've updated this.

Still a beast!

Photo dump:

My CD-009 lost 5th gear at the end of last summer, so I carried on without it until the snow started.
It turned out to be the dog ring or whatever it is called had snapped off of the input/5th gear shaft. To solve this, I bought a 370z shaft (different) from the dealer along with the updated CD-00A synchro. I then used and angle grinder to the get the bearing offset "correct" and was back in business.
A $350 surgical success versus finding a new trans.

Carnage:








This is where the 370z CD-00A shaft has more meat than the CD-009.


CD-009


Grinding


Back together




The engine got a basic refresh and some esthetic changes




OEM style Toyota logo, but with "single" instead of Twin Turbo



I went with a far less aggressive clutch as the Stage 4 item had a painful pressure plate to actuate in traffic.
Cheap 350z item off of Rock Auto for something like $250



I've been clutch kicking 3rd-4th with no complaints so far.



After 20 years of driving e30s sideways, I finally decided to install a hydro. The only reason I did, is because with the engine and trans out, it seemed like the time.
I wanted to keep things OEM-ish, so I chopped up the stock handbrake ratchet and made a quick and dirty bracket using a stick welder, as I was out of gas. The handle is off of an old jack. The master cylinder was laying around from a previous clutch setup.
Total cost, about $40 in fittings.







Works like a dream and keeps the ratchet for parking.
I will be arrested as it is addictive.

I finally made the step away from trying to make a 2 piece driveshaft work. It works great for a few months, then the joints and splines start to fail.


Magnum dong


A Toyota flange is the same PCD at the e30 diff, you just need to modify the seat by like 1-2mm so it centers within the e30 diff recess.




Beefy


The diff then complained in style...




I, a man without machines, then painfully resurfaced the damage






3 new plates and clutches, and it was back into the car.




As of this week it is back on the road and feeling better than ever.




I used the low offset GTAs in front to give allow for max angle on 205/45s, while the et15s in the rear can comfortably allow for the 225/45s.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Bro you have great taste in toys

[e30mclow]

NB moose sign???

Yes sir!

When it is fun run time at Autocross, I try to have fun

My grinding 2nd was my clutch stop having backed out a couple of turns :(

With those tires toast, it was back to the RSs. I also installed the CA Tuned SE/iS sideskirts & DTM Mirrors











I'm in the process of gathering diff rebuild parts as my input bearing is making a lot of noise.
I'll be adding a 3rd clutch plate, but in the meantime I may need to swap in a high ratio spare.

[Northern]

NB moose sign???

[e30mclow]

This is what Winning looks like

No it isn't, this is:


FYI - a 4% slope is what's needed to drive from the trailer into the truck.













The clutch master took a crap before leaving so I had no choice but to squeeze the white car into the truck.

Having made it here, I beefed up the master setup as some flex was leading to misalignment wear on the Wilwood piston.










She's now golden and I have the first autocross event of the season this weekend

[2mAn]

This is what Winning looks like

[e30mclow]

Some updates.

It is now all back together and on the road.





12K Front & 14K Rear






With those in I reset the rear alignment and finally managed to achieve -0.3 to -0.5 degrees of camber, which should help tire wear and grip.

I also replaced the now very tired Garagistic front sway links with far more robust Volvo C30 rears. This was a nice little discovery.
The Moog items have grease fittings and are beefy as hell.







With that, a little bit of testing was required with the 180TW tires that ultimately caused the rear end destruction last season.
2nd & 3rd gear clutch kicks are no longer an issue


Other than that, I'm now down to two cars from four, with the two e30s winning.
I sold the Pajero Evo and 750i to make the big move easier, but there's no way I'm parting ways with these e30s!

[Mkcustoms88]

I also live in Halifax , Nova Scotia and your right, you can drive into a pot hole and walk out lol

[DEV0 E30]

I'm absolutely loving this thread.

You have excellent taste in wheels too.

[Northern]

Watch the potholes in NS on the way through lol.
Hit one and you'll find yourself in the plot of Journey to the Center of the Earth.

I saw those spacers as well but I also don't think there's an issue. I think I read somewhere that it was for a specific axle combo, but I could be full of shit.

[s14brent]

that's pretty cool, never knew they had axle spacers like that available. I ordered a pair of spacers and bolts to throw in mine (cheap insurance).

[e30mclow]

That's a rad trip, I've always wanted to go to Targa Newfoundland.

I know, the Targa would be amazing. For now I'll settle for Autocross on Bell Island. The thought of having to get a ferry to an island to rip at autocross all day is just brilliant.

I didn't know stretched axle boots were a problem?

Re the boots: It is a theory that only exists in my head.
I've bought e30s with good, albeit old boots, only for them to fail shortly after I slam the car. It has happened every time.

Seemingly with a low car, you're at the end of the splines, so when you add additional squat under power, I assume things are stretched moderately beyond their intended position.

[moatilliatta]

That's a rad trip, I've always wanted to go to Targa Newfoundland.

I didn't know stretched axle boots were a problem?

[e30mclow]

it is time to fix my torn backside.







After some measuring, I found that the 2" square tube that I bought socketed perfectly into the original diff support beam pockets.







I then decided to use these as a guide, before heavily reinforcing them.



Using an e36 medium case diff cover that I bought off of RockAuto, I started mocking things up.
Have never actually welded before using a real MIG, it was a wonderful step up from the $90 Amazon Flux Core that I'd been wasting time with for years.











Once I was happy with the alignment/position, I started strengthening it and adding new rear anti roll bar bracket locations.









With everything double checked, I pulled it out and painted it. It would be too difficult to do a good job once it was welded in.






I then dropped it into place for the last time and welded it home.
For the OEM perches shown earlier, I added strengthening place to the bottom to spread any forces.

Running out of time, I decided to make a barbaric panel to close things up.

I roughed in some 1.5mm sheet and then went to town beating "bead rolls" into it with a 1/2" extension and rubber mallet.




That added a tremendous amount of strength, which will help.
I then gave the underside many coats of rubberized under coat for good measure.


Since I was doing so well, I decided to treat the car to new axles. The ones that were in it had torn boots and I didn't trust them now that everything else was going to be so strong.
To help avoid stretch of the boots, as well as the CVs being extended to the ends of the splines with how low the car is, I also bought some axle spacers from Seems Legit Garage.





That should all make for a pretty robust rear end ahead of what will be an awesome road trip this coming May!