Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[2mAn]

Thats a legit upgrade on the compressor! Nice.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I got one of those HF compressors at a sidewalk sale for $200 (was a repaired return, no warranty), back in '08-ish. That compressor ran my shop for several years. Want to say it was for 7-ish years, running all day every day trying to keep up with a die grinder and media blaster. Literally, run all day several days a week, with a few breaks to let it cool off. What finally killed it was kinda my fault. The air lines are so tight at the shop, not a single leak, so it was rarely turned off. We have 3ph electric, so three transformers, and one blew in the middle of the nigt - so the compressor motor was trying to run on one leg (110v) and completely meted down until the braker popped. The windings were just a big mass of copper sludge. Stuck a 3hp real industrial motor on it and it stayed like that until we got the Quincy 325 compressor head (up to 500psi!). Since upgraded the motor to a 5hp 3ph and have the switch to cut off at 190psi and regulate it at the ends of the galvy pipes. The tank is still that same HF tank, though. Had to upgrade the switch for the 3ph motor, but now it's quiet and I can maintain 90psi, even with a wide open 3/8" hose. Now considering fabricating an after cooler for it since the lines near the compressor (they all pitch towards it) have a lot of moisture, even with a quality water separator.

That thing should last light duty for quite some time. They are just a hair loud.

that's awesome feedback! thank you. Great steal of a deal too. I paid clearance price, but it was still "expensive". I was happy to do it though considering the long term benefits. Cool to hear the upgradability too.

Do you have any tricks for quieting it down? I've seen people swap out air filters, but this looks like it kinda has it's own design? maybe I could fabricate and adapter... haven't looked at it too closely yet.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Nice Garage Charlie. LMK When you want to hang out, youre too close for us not to hang out more often

thanks man - any time! just hmu!

nice job charlie

thanks alex

that blue shelving unit, can i get a link to it? looks legit.

you mean the heavy duty racks more of a grey color that I setup in the corner? or the blue bolt bins?

the racks I got from home depot, the bolt bins I got for free ages ago from a previous job

[jeenyus]

yea the blue bolt bins. those are sick!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

yea the blue bolt bins. those are sick!

yea, got them for free ages ago. But you can search craigslist etc for them. Also you can buy them new all over the internet.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Got some work done over the weekend.

Finished up the front spindle mods applying some CAD to make the swaybar mounts. Hammered the bends with a BFH in the vise. Not bad I think? We will see if I measured the end links properly! Threw a set of brake ducts on them too. Only one setback - while unthreading one fo the shock inserts from the spindle, some threads galled and got tore up because of rust. Now they do not thread back in without getting stuck. I ordered an M50x1.5 thread tap from China to chase the threads.

And in the category of: one of my stupider ideas; I put the front of the car on wheel dollies, the rear on the engine hoist, and rolled it a few feet out of the garage to give the rear underside a bath.... why do I do these things to myself. What a horrible nasty exhausting mess that made. Making a serious mental note to stop this madness and just take the car to have the undercarriage steam cleaned next time.

Rear subframe/diff/trailing arm updates coming next.

















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[Digitalwave]

Nice welds! Wheeling the car out of the garage like that looks sketchy as hell.

[jeenyus]

this is awesome! great work man!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Nice welds! Wheeling the car out of the garage like that looks sketchy as hell.

Thanks!

Yes, It was. I leveled the car out after that photo which helped quite a bit. Only needed to go a few feet. The front was fairly solid planted, but some imperfections in the concrete made it tough to roll. Never doing that again without at least one end of the car on wheels/tires. Better yet, I'll plan ahead and just get the damn undercarriage steam cleaned and save myself ALL the headache.

[Chilezen]

How did you determine the clocking of the endlink brackets?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

How did you determine the clocking of the endlink brackets?

I eyeballed it based on looking at numerous photos of e30 m3 coilovers, and mocking up on the car putting the tab as parallel to the centerline of the car as possible. Probably should've also checked lock to lock movement too, but comparing photos it looks like I've got it right.

[Digitalwave]

Looks close enough to me. The sphericals or ball joints (depending on what links you have) offer a ton of movement without binding.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Looks close enough to me. The sphericals or ball joints (depending on what links you have) offer a ton of movement without binding.

yea that's what I figured. I'm using a set of E36 M3 lemforder end links cut in half and threaded for a hex sleeve in the middle.

[Digitalwave]

That's a good idea. Spherical/threaded links are surprisingly expensive.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

That's a good idea. Spherical/threaded links are surprisingly expensive.

That's exactly why I did it, overall about $120 cheaper. I've spent $95 between the endlinks and the threaded tube. I needed a custom size too, and no one was willing to make them. Not sure which will last longer, but at least the ball joints have a boot on them, and they're heavy duty OEM quality. Whenever they do need replacing, I'll just replace the end links for another $50. Oh and this configuration gives much more adjustment range.

The threaded tube can be bought from steinjager in case anyone wants to do the same. m10x1.5 is the correct thread size for the endlinks to get tapped to (the shaft is 10mm)