Still nothing much to report. Funds are low and waiting on parts (due in july) has left me de-motivated.
Last weekend, just to spend some time with her, I decided I'd fit up the e34 bowden cable, wire in the plug for the cluster temp and fix up my brake pedal.
Doing the Bowden was pretty easy, push out the hook and rubber grommet from the pedal, bash the plastic that holds it to the firewall till it snaps and then pull out through the engine bay. Installation was obviously the reverse (other than bashing the clips). One thing I noticed though was there is a foam grommet around the plastic firewall clip on the e34 cable. This prevented it from clicking in properly. I had to remove it to get a solid fit.
Cluster temp connector was done through cutting pins 1 and 2 from the round, dual temp connector in the e36 harness. Pin 1 should be brown/violet. I pulled this back up through the loom tubing slightly and then back out the tubing. Soldered and heatshrinked this to the single wire temp connector I'd removed from the m40 loom and capped off the wiring from pin 2 cut earlier.
Last off all, after fitting up the Renault Clio booster, the clevis was about 3mm shorter than the E30. This resulted in the brake pedal no longer returning all the way and causing the lights to come on intermittently. On RHD cars the pedal is connected to the booster via a threaded rod that runs along the firewall. This rod can be twisted to adjust where the pedal sits. Very convenient! Just undid the locking nut (17mm), and twisted the rod until the brake lights turned off and tightened the locking nut.
This weekend is a long weekend. During my adventures under the dash with the brakes I discovered lots of loose wiring and other things that don't look quite right. If I get motivated I might pull the dash and do a clean up...maybe.
Last weekend, just to spend some time with her, I decided I'd fit up the e34 bowden cable, wire in the plug for the cluster temp and fix up my brake pedal.
Doing the Bowden was pretty easy, push out the hook and rubber grommet from the pedal, bash the plastic that holds it to the firewall till it snaps and then pull out through the engine bay. Installation was obviously the reverse (other than bashing the clips). One thing I noticed though was there is a foam grommet around the plastic firewall clip on the e34 cable. This prevented it from clicking in properly. I had to remove it to get a solid fit.
Cluster temp connector was done through cutting pins 1 and 2 from the round, dual temp connector in the e36 harness. Pin 1 should be brown/violet. I pulled this back up through the loom tubing slightly and then back out the tubing. Soldered and heatshrinked this to the single wire temp connector I'd removed from the m40 loom and capped off the wiring from pin 2 cut earlier.
Last off all, after fitting up the Renault Clio booster, the clevis was about 3mm shorter than the E30. This resulted in the brake pedal no longer returning all the way and causing the lights to come on intermittently. On RHD cars the pedal is connected to the booster via a threaded rod that runs along the firewall. This rod can be twisted to adjust where the pedal sits. Very convenient! Just undid the locking nut (17mm), and twisted the rod until the brake lights turned off and tightened the locking nut.
This weekend is a long weekend. During my adventures under the dash with the brakes I discovered lots of loose wiring and other things that don't look quite right. If I get motivated I might pull the dash and do a clean up...maybe.
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