Project Weißer Regen: 91 318iS Restomod

[TeXJ]

yeah I'd like to know what you did to clean the rust off as well.

[Jordan]

A stiff stainless steel wire brush on a drill, with WD40 as a cleaner/lubricant is my trick there. If done right it cleans the metal completely without imparting any marks to the substrate that would otherwise conceal machining marks etc.

[TeXJ]

nice!

[ThatOneEuroE30]

I’ve used barrymens chem dip on my output flanges and it just eats the rust away and leaves them looking like new

[flyboyx]

I’ve used barrymens chem dip on my output flanges and it just eats the rust away and leaves them looking like new

That’s an interesting idea. I wonder how it would work on hardware? I want to cad my parts like Jordan did, but I sure would like to find an easier way to do it.

I just checked on line. You can get a 5 gallon bucket of this stuff for about 150 bucks

[ThatOneEuroE30]

That’s an interesting idea. I wonder how it would work on hardware? I want to cad my parts like Jordan did, but I sure would like to find an easier way to do it.



I just checked on line. You can get a 5 gallon bucket of this stuff for about 150 bucks

It works amazing on hardware too. What I do is just put it in and forget about it and go back to it every once in a while and brush off the loosened grim to a new layer. Its some nasty stuff and works good.

[alistairolsen]

A stiff stainless steel wire brush on a drill, with WD40 as a cleaner/lubricant is my trick there. If done right it cleans the metal completely without imparting any marks to the substrate that would otherwise conceal machining marks etc.

Thanks!

[D.Martijn]

How did you clean up those rear hubs? They look awesome!

[Jordan]

Today's project was to finish rebuilding the differential. The Thayer clutch rebuild kit came in yesterday so I went by the shop that is vapor honing my stuff and picked up the differential cover which I'd asked them to have ready first.

As it comes out from the process it is lickably clean, silky smooth and has a high luster very much in line with that of fresh cast aluminum. This is -not- a painted finished, what you see is bare aluminum.



New clutch and dogear plate (2 each in assembled diff) vs the old parts



That shiny cover with a new diff bushing, vent tube pressed back in, and all of the refinished hardware ready to install.



Installed





They also had the power steering pump housings finished as well, and I had all the parts on hand to rebuild it so I snagged that too before I went home.

All the parts laid out, save for the assembly bolts.


Vane pump attached to shaft, cam ring pinned. It had occurred to me after taking this picture the vane hub was actually upside down, I removed and flipped it over.



Face plate installed on housing, with new double profile seal. Note everything has an arrow cast or stamped into it, these need to line up on reassembly as pictured. It occurred to me after typing this and looking at these pictures that I installed at least the pictured vanes backwards :rofl so I need to go pop it open and flip them around, the rounded side faces the cam housing.



Finished, reassembled pump refreshed and renewed




Original data plate which was carefully masked for the vapor honing process.

[parkerbink]

Wow, amazing.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

What did you do to get the “S” back on the case after being painted

[parkerbink]

He cleaned it. No paint.

[Jordan]

Indeed, the cases paint is original 25 year old. I just cleaned it.

[monty23psk]

Hey Jordan,

I am about to rebuild my whole rear end and rear axles have been shot for some time. I want to rebuild diff. Would you recommend the rebuild is something that can be done diy if the kit is purchased? Not sure if special tools are required. Thatcher kit is what you recommend?

TIA

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[parkerbink]

Indeed, the cases paint is original 25 year old. I just cleaned it.

See? I'm paying attention!


lol