The Ecobeamer

[hkv]

I laughed too hard at this last pic :D
Congrats on getting it running man, sound is really good. Now get it finished and start ripping! Did you use your phone to record that exhaust?

lol thank you man. it sounds so nice and loud and I haven't even reved it up that much. yes absolutely, got quite a few loose ends to get finished up the harnesses and the gauges are the most apparent. on the bright side; brakes, clutch, drivetrain appear to be working good and ready to go, the engine im still not 100% about but might things are definitely coming together.

yeah I used my phone to record that video.

heres another that revs a bit higher, no "f yeahs" unfortunately but its kinda cool how it sounds almost like a turbo deeze except from the exhaust burbles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUa4...ature=youtu.be

[hkv]

gauges are coming along nicely! I think ill put my indicator lights on the top area above the boost gauge.

[formyhealth]

Hell yeah homie! You are absolutely killing it, proud you were able to soldier on and get it knocked out. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[moatilliatta]

Great video, Good stuff!

Interested to see this in action.

[hkv]

Hell yeah homie! You are absolutely killing it, proud you were able to soldier on and get it knocked out. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

Great video, Good stuff!

Interested to see this in action.

Thanks guys, actually haven't managed to keep up my pace, right now doing good though just taking my time to do these remaining details right. got the car sitting on all fours and its looking real good camber and ride height and even toe. got the spacers on and the fenders rolled and everything seems good there. almost finished up on the gauge wiring/panel mounting and working on the rest of the wiring harness and then going to work on the seat harness mount points because they should be pretty sturdy.

one thing that I haven't been able to "check off" is that the clutch isn't seeming to fully release and the throw out bearing doesn't appear to move that much during clutch use. pretty sure the clearance was set right, it looks right and its bled good. So Im thinking now that I need a larger master cylinder which could be a pain in the sense of having to open the brake systems along with the clutch if I need to remove the pedal box to remove the old master cylinder. but if I need to which is likely that would give me an excuse to redo the front driver to passenger side line I did that way due to the line length but would maybe want to re do it where it went lower and maybe farther out than right now to stay cooler. not sure.

so just making sure everything's done good at this point, don't want the electronics or especially the clutch not working right. one nice thing is that I ran the engine for a good amount of time to get everything fully warmed up as far as the cooling system goes and make sure it was working right because the motor was having some weird issues for a little while but it seems to be working real good now. still sounds awesome lol. eventually going to wire the starting back up to the bmw ignition as long it doesn't cause issues.

heres to some track footage later this month if I can get her working good!
cheers

[Conrad311]

Man this is crazy in the best way! No guides to follow just gettin shit done.
step 1: think of motor to stuff in car
step 2: stuff said motor in car
step 3: make hilarious video of said motors first start.

bravo sir!

[roguetoaster]

Man this is crazy in the best way! No guides to follow just gettin shit done.
step 1: think of motor to stuff in car
step 2: stuff said motor in car
step 3: make hilarious video of said motors first start.

bravo sir!

1. Flat 12
2. Place flat 12 behind front seats
3. Start recording, start engine, fire starts immediately and you run screaming from your now engulfed garage, which hopefully isn't attached to your house

Is this what you meant? I'd watch that video.

[Conrad311]

1. Flat 12 2. Place flat 12 behind front seats 3. Start recording, start engine, fire starts immediately and you run screaming from your now engulfed garage, which hopefully isn't attached to your house Is this what you meant? I'd watch that video.

Watch the Darwin awards, that’s where that individual and video would belong. Unlike the OP who is crafty and diligent enough to not need the 6000 detailed steps in between my simplified version spoon fed to him and, then have his hand held throughout the build like a lot of guys swapping motors on forums. He had his idea and made it happen. That’s what I meant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CorvallisBMW]

Wow, I'm a bit late to the party, but great job OP! I love the originality and creativity in fabrication, it's fantastic. It may not be beautiful, but it's done right, and that's what matters most. I'll take an ugly well-built care over a pretty POS any day.

Can I offer one recommendation? Consider sealing the riveted lap joints on your firewalls with this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Barrier-Si...85730746&psc=1

We use it here at work as both a structural adhesive and as a UL710-rated fire barrier. It's truly amazing stuff when used on sheetmetal. Obviously if you can sandwich it between your lap joints before riveting that is the best method, but it will work well applied to the outside of existing joints as well. It doesn't dry, crack, shrink, or degrade in any way and it highly solvent-resistant.

[moatilliatta]

Why not just seam sealer?

[ForcedFirebird]

1. Flat 12
2. Place flat 12 behind front seats
3. Start recording, start engine, fire starts immediately and you run screaming from your now engulfed garage, which hopefully isn't attached to your house

Is this what you meant? I'd watch that video.

You forgot about the rivets.

[roguetoaster]

You forgot about the rivets.

Rivet those engine mount arm in place! Rivet the ground straps! Rivet the rubber fuel lines to the hard lines...wait a minute.

[LowR3V'in]

that clutch is going to be brutal

[hkv]

Man this is crazy in the best way! No guides to follow just gettin shit done.
step 1: think of motor to stuff in car
step 2: stuff said motor in car
step 3: make hilarious video of said motors first start.

bravo sir!

Watch the Darwin awards, that’s where that individual and video would belong. Unlike the OP who is crafty and diligent enough to not need the 6000 detailed steps in between my simplified version spoon fed to him and, then have his hand held throughout the build like a lot of guys swapping motors on forums. He had his idea and made it happen. That’s what I meant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thank you man, I appreciate the kind words.

Wow, I'm a bit late to the party, but great job OP! I love the originality and creativity in fabrication, it's fantastic. It may not be beautiful, but it's done right, and that's what matters most. I'll take an ugly well-built care over a pretty POS any day.

Can I offer one recommendation? Consider sealing the riveted lap joints on your firewalls with this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Barrier-Si...85730746&psc=1

We use it here at work as both a structural adhesive and as a UL710-rated fire barrier. It's truly amazing stuff when used on sheetmetal. Obviously if you can sandwich it between your lap joints before riveting that is the best method, but it will work well applied to the outside of existing joints as well. It doesn't dry, crack, shrink, or degrade in any way and it highly solvent-resistant.

thank you, i appreciate it. I can always invest the time in the future do upgrade to a wrap too.

I appreciate the recommendation I will see about doing that later on in a way that I can make nice. sealing the panels together is a good thing to do.

[hkv]

that clutch is going to be brutal

replaced the clutch master cylinder with a 7/8" it was previously a 3/4" bore. problem still persists. my clearance looks a little big unfortunately that could be causing the issue perhaps. im getting a good amount of travel out of the throw out bearing right now, at least 0.5" maybe a bit more. so I feel like the clutch should be disengaging, that it probably should only take a tiny bit more TOB travel to depress the pressure plate enough to release.

so its kinda weird to me, I wonder if there's anyway the clutch is a little stuck enough that it needs a jolt to come unengaged? probably not. right now the plan and the only thing I figure I can do is to go up to a 15/16" or more likely a 1" master cylinder and at that point I should in theory have the travel that I will either actuate the TOB a little bit more to disengage the clutch and then manage to finish the clutch system now that it will disengage or in a worse case scenario I overextend the TOB and the piston comes out of the TOB and then system leaks brake fluid everywhere and I would then have to the pull motor and tran to fix it and get it sorted out.

so hopefully going with an even bigger MC will get that extra little bit of travel I think I need to release the clutch without overextending the TOB which supposedly has 0.7" of travel and im uncomfortably close to that from what I can tell. its really hard to judge the distance looking at it through the Clutch fork hole in the bellhousing.

maybe theres some other issue that im missing that could be causing this but Im not too sure what it could be.