My Hoopte30 Project Attempt #6 - the painless way to earn cash back every day

[OSAH racing]

Impressive how your able to just knock out the work and get this cars back into circulation.

[AWDBOB]

Impressive how your able to just knock out the work and get this cars back into circulation.

My motivation with these hoopties early on was to change my approach from the typical car project that is on jack stands for years and then sold off when finished to getting a car driving as soon as possible without worrying about it being perfect. So I try really hard to get these cars back on the road as soon as I can so I can enjoy them!

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I took the 100mi maiden out of town voyage straight into Indy last night not knowing what would fail to pick up some 14" weaves.

The steering felt very odd, and had a bind/clunk. Accelerator cable popped off of my new bushing so I rolled to a gas station and zip tied it.

The driveshaft vibrated like crazy on accel, diff seemed to whine on decel but could've been driveshaft noise.

Shift bushings were awful.

I had a 2hr window today where I could toss the car on the lift and assess with the above in mind.

I found that the front undertray I installed was somehow rubbing on the inner tie rod boot. Fixed that for free, steering feels 80% better and clunk is gone. Rack or USMS are still a touch bindier than I'd like them to be but not bad enough to replace a rack since the PS doesn't leak.

I had a spare d/s with serviceable ujoints and a good CSB from the orange car, so I opted to install that alongside a new guibo and trans mounts.

I rebuilt the shift carrier with a rubber front carrier bushing mjweimer gave me years ago.

I had a rando short shifter from the orange car, which was accompanied by an auto solutions looking selector joint and rod, so I installed all of that with the appropriate number of plastic washers, "rebuilt" a less exploded rear shift carrier bushing with right stuff and it feels as good as any other car I've spent a ton of money rebuilding the shifter on.

Then promptly took it on another drive out of town and the car seemed very happy.

I still have a CEL that I haven't checked since it's an early DME, but the car runs very well/smooth so I'm not expecting anything crazy there.

This thing is a windshield and a working sprayer away from being an apt daily.

Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr

[e30austin]

those trans mounts still had a couple miles left. shame on you for being so wasteful.

[AWDBOB]

those trans mounts still had a couple miles left. shame on you for being so wasteful.

Its wild how different a car feels when the entire driveline isn't moving around under accel/decel

I kinda liked it, may do a trans mount delete next

[AWDBOB]

Well R3V. For those who have been following the most recent hooptie sedan chronicles…. I have been thrashing to get this car over the finish line, and last night I found something that no one wants to see on their E30, let alone one with this much time and effort invested.

My gut kept saying to check the inner tie rods, and thankfully I did, as the lock plate had failed on the passenger inner and was backing out. Thankfully I caught this before it backed all the way out. Minor issues.

“While I was in there” I started taking apart my new cam seal that is hemorrhaging oil. I always install cam seals in a new spot to avoid the old groove, but apparently I got super lucky and found the groove before this groove. Groovy.

Saw engine mounts had failed as well and threw a fresh set on.

While I was working under the car on the inner tie rods and engine mounts the light hit just right while I was looking up and revealed something rusty looking...... so I investigated and found that a leaky brake master had completely wiped out the top side of the frame rail under the MC.

The underside of the rail is fine-ish, but it is also crusty where the from subframe mounts to the frame on the drivers side, and anywhere else the brake fluid sat over the years.

'tiz the inevitable part of saving cars that probably should just be parts cars.

I am likely going to do nothing about it and pretend I didn't see it, but I definitely can't sell the car to someone in good faith with this rust.

Rolling parts car? Flower garden? Only time will tell.

Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr

[rjmcdermott81]

Yikes! It's hard to tell how pervasive that rust is from the one photo, but I would imagine that doing a "good enough" fix wouldn't be terrible for someone with a welder and a shop. The hard work will be stripping the car down to make it easy... (pulling the engine, subframe, etc.).

Of course, I tend to think everything should be saved, so take my thoughts for what they are worth. Good reason to buy a welder?

[AWDBOB]

Yikes! It's hard to tell how pervasive that rust is from the one photo, but I would imagine that doing a "good enough" fix wouldn't be terrible for someone with a welder and a shop. The hard work will be stripping the car down to make it easy... (pulling the engine, subframe, etc.).

Of course, I tend to think everything should be saved, so take my thoughts for what they are worth. Good reason to buy a welder?

After further review, the other 3 sides of the rail are solid. I was worried the rust went through the rail and down to the subframe which was not the case.

I risked it all and pulled the subframe bolts and thankfully, they came out with ease and looked great. With the subframe dropped, I cleaned and encapsulated the surface rust that was there and bolted it all back up. I used the eastwood internal frame coating on all of the passages on the frame in an effort to slow it down a bit. I'll add a strut brace and call it good for now.

I think it'll be a while before the terrifying looking spot under the MC becomes problematic.

This car was already a charity mission so opening the can of worms that is dropping the cradle and plating the top section of that frame is out of the question, for now at least.

Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr

[rjmcdermott81]

I respect that. Roll it.

[mjweimer]

Bend up some sheet metal and rivet it in place? Could also do a combo of rivets and structural adhesive/panel bond or even zip screws to hold until it cures. I don't know how this thing made it down the road with all the Bluetooth drive-line mounts...but now she it looking fine. King of the Hoopte's rides again.

[AWDBOB]

Bend up some sheet metal and rivet it in place? Could also do a combo of rivets and structural adhesive/panel bond or even zip screws to hold until it cures. I don't know how this thing made it down the road with all the Bluetooth drive-line mounts...but now she it looking fine. King of the Hoopte's rides again.

I genuinely don't know either- it only had a vibration on accel. When I tore into it and saw how bad the mounts and driveshaft were I was terrified.

My buddy was on board to do the welding if I dropped the cradle and made the patch panels. I spent a long time at the shop yesterday checking it over to make a decision and really do think it's fine for now.

This car isn't as clean rust-wise as most of the other cars I've saved in this thread so I think it's a fools errand to start grinding.

Still far from a flinstone mobile, though.

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My cam seal groove theory was incorrect. I installed the seal very carefully and it flat spotted somehow, despite my efforts. I don't know if that's a seal failure or installer error, but I installed this the same way I have the last 27 and it felt the same going in.

Oh well, fixed. Fuel pump sounds happier after the fresh fuel filter. I need to string align and then drive to see what else fails.

Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr

[Reichart12]

Where were you getting the oil coming out for that bad seal? I wonder if that could be some of my leak. I changed that seal last year and it helped but didn't 100% stop the leak.

[AWDBOB]

Where were you getting the oil coming out for that bad seal? I wonder if that could be some of my leak. I changed that seal last year and it helped but didn't 100% stop the leak.

Front of head above HG but not above the cam seal housing, which ruled out VC.

When cam seals have failed on past E30s they’ve leaked pretty bad and drip down the passenger side of the block which is what this one did, although I’ve never had a seal fail after it was replaced until this time.

Most of the time it’s VC but the pesky cam seal will get ya

[varg]

I wonder if there's a quality issue with these seals. My E30's oil leak is the same thing, pretty bad and it runs down from behind the timing cover, I have replaced the valve cover gasket and rocker seals so that leaves only the cam seal and seal carrier o ring, both were professionally installed when I had the head rebuilt and new cam installed. Could also be the installer's fault though, my M50 stroker smoked like a 2 stroke from new and was honed and assembled by the same person.

[AWDBOB]

I wonder if there's a quality issue with these seals. My E30's oil leak is the same thing, pretty bad and it runs down from behind the timing cover, I have replaced the valve cover gasket and rocker seals so that leaves only the cam seal and seal carrier o ring, both were professionally installed when I had the head rebuilt and new cam installed. Could also be the installer's fault though, my M50 stroker smoked like a 2 stroke from new and was honed and assembled by the same person.

Funny you mention that, the second replacement Elring seal failed as well. I checked the end of the cam over very carefully for a burr or groove that could be causing an issue and it was as clean as can be.

Very carefully installed a new seal and oring in the same manner I’ve done the last 25. Checked to make sure the seal wasn’t bulging or sucked in anywhere after install.

Didn’t leak for 10mi and then started the same leak as before.

Both of these seals were bought around the same time and came from Elring HG kits.

Not saying I can’t mess something up but I’ve been doing these more than the average person since 2013 and have never had one fail. Now that I’ve had two of the same failures back to back it has me questioning the quality

[e30austin]

i had the same issue on my M3 (cam seal folded and leaked out of the distributor housing) after the engine rebuild - also an Elring seal. the replacement seal was a Victor Reinz. installed with Permatex on the outer race, gently tapped into the housing, and has been good ever since. always was able to count on Elring to be worth a shit back in the day. guess not now.