If you're using a DX lens on a crop (DX) body, it will show up as advertised. When you change up the combo (flipping either way) things can change as I believe you understand. However, you can put a FF camera into crop mode usually but why downgrade?
Simple test shots showing difference:
Do some more research on the lens you want + your camera, or don't buy any expensive DX lenses if you want to eventually go FX (full frame). I personally wouldn't, I like primes, so when I switched to FF, I didn't have any unneeded DX lenses hanging around.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/dx-lenses.htm
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/fx-dx-future.htm
https://photographylife.com/using-ni...-on-fx-cameras
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I am a canon guy (that does not have any EF-S glass) so I cant say for certain but I would think a lens designed specifically for a crop sensor camera that will not also work on a FF rig. That the focal length would be as stated and not subject to the crop factor varianceLeave a comment:
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Quick question about lenses Im having trouble finding answers to. I use a crop sensor camera and Im trying to decided on a lens. I thought I picked one out but Im not convinced. I understand using a full frame lens will convert them on a crop sensor so the 18-300 would be 27-450. Now if the lens is listed as a DX one will it still get a crop factor on a crop camera or is its listed numbers be how it would show up as.
Hopefully that makes sense. And here's a few old pictures I got in Baltimore in the fall.


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So I think I've decided on Nikons 18-200 f/3.5-5.6 and as much as I would like a lower fstop it doesn't seems like anything is made lower in that range. It's a Dx lens but still better than what I have. It would become my every type of shooting lens probably. Part of the attraction was the success other people were having with it for travel. Anyways here a few shots I grabbed lately. One is my first time out with a 7 stop ND filter I got for Christmas. One is a light painting try with my friends car. And the last is a M3 just because M3.


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http://deltacloseouts.com/details/55...-osaAneC8P8HAQ
i cant wait to get out and use mine haha. so much better than rebel xt life.
Man am I glad that I sold my 7d two years ago... I bought it new for $1700 with the 28-135mm and sold it for $800 (body only), and it had 6K on the shutter. Then bought a grey market t3i (600d) for $350 shipped new. FYI the 7d and t3i have the same sensor and processor, but the 7d has 8fps due to the nicer shutter mechanism. Still waiting for full frame to come down in price.... I'd love a 6d so I can use my 35mm glass the way it was intended to ;)Leave a comment:
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Exactly. A D610 is a very fast focusing body. With a good lens recomposing a shot takes a blink of an eye. Whatever the focus of the shot is, is what should be centered in the shot. If you have all the focus points activated, its going to hunt around and try to focus on everything it sees in the available focus points. The only way to dictate what it focuses on is to select a single point and move the focus point manually if need be. This is the case with every digital camera that I've ever used (and why they have the auto tracking is beyond me because if there is anything more than one object in the frame it will hunt around for the other objects until you happen to find the right object you want and you hit the shutter button. It drives me crazy.) Film cameras don't have a million focus points to choose from, why do digital ones? (Ok, I admit I've never shot an F5 or F6, they might)But your not using the focus lock, it would be no different than ising default settings and leaving the shutter 1/2 press while recomposeing. How long does it take to do this 1sec...... I have been using this method for everything from landscapes to birds in flight.... I don't see what the issues are for weddings, but then I dont shoot those
I'm very impressed with my D600. The resolution is mind blowing with the right lens for the job (If you have to crop the heck out of the pic to make the subject big enough to see, you are missing out on a lot, yet the image will still be better than something with less resolution.)
This is an interesting comparison, same plane, same lens, same location (within a couple feet) taken with my D600 and my old D7000. (D600 is a full frame, d7000 is crop frame.) The two pics were taken 1 year apart. D600 this year, D7000 last year.
D600 (300mm F8 1/160 ISO 125)

D7000 (250mm F6.3 1/250 ISO 160)

WillLeave a comment:
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i havent really gotten to play with the 7d much yet.
but so far so good :D still getting use to having access to high ISO. XT had like 1200 max iso iirc lol.
IMG_7269 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7273 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7299 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7342 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7359 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7361 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7364 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7365 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
IMG_7367 by spencer lucas, on Flickr
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But your not using the focus lock, it would be no different than ising default settings and leaving the shutter 1/2 press while recomposeing. How long does it take to do this 1sec...... I have been using this method for everything from landscapes to birds in flight.... I don't see what the issues are for weddings, but then I dont shoot thoseLeave a comment:
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that was my whole initial point, was having to do that, lock the focus and recompose. I do it here and there on my current body and its not too annoying or anything. I just wanted to see if anyone had experience with it.Leave a comment:
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Simple...... use center point focus, set the body up for back button focus leave mettering on shutter 1/2 press. Set focus hold button down (af set to single or non tracking) quickly recompse to your liking and fire off the shot.Leave a comment:
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its not that the people move fast, its that the moments happen fast.People don't move fast. Cars, airplanes, bicycle races, hummingbirds, now those move fast, and not sometimes erratically, especially at 300mm. Shooting people at a wedding dancing? Use only the center focus point, shoot. Just like shooting a hummingbird. Most wedding pics are shot at a high shutter speed (aka 1/200+) with a higher ISO and likely a flash or 2. Its pretty easy to move the focus point while composing the pic for something moving that slowly.
Will
if using only the center focus point to shoot has been your solution for the D610s focus point issue, then I think its clear I shouldn't get one.Last edited by J.Rizo; 01-06-2016, 09:51 AM.Leave a comment:
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People don't move fast. Cars, airplanes, bicycle races, hummingbirds, now those move fast, and not sometimes erratically, especially at 300mm. Shooting people at a wedding dancing? Use only the center focus point, shoot. Just like shooting a hummingbird. Most wedding pics are shot at a high shutter speed (aka 1/200+) with a higher ISO and likely a flash or 2. Its pretty easy to move the focus point while composing the pic for something moving that slowly. The only time I ever move from the center focus point is when I'm shooting on a tripod, doing landscapes with something (name your interesting object) offset that I wish to make the focus point of the image. The multi focus points are a PITA to deal with. Its the first thing I turn off.what do you mean by this? maybe I wasn't clear enough. when I'm shooting handheld, I'm worried having to lock my focus into the cluster and then having to recompose to frame my shot how I want is going to be annoying.
not true at all. a super tiny wedding, sure. but most weddings in the LA area are pretty big and things happen very, very quickly. everything seems relaxed until you're scrambling around getting PAID to capture every single major moment. thats when you notice how quick things are happening haha
Its really too bad that there is no split focus screen so a manual focus lens could be easily used. (The thing I hate most about DSLRs, no focusing screens that allow easy use of manual focus lenses.)
The last wedding I shot was using film, and manual focus lenses. I think I was shooting an F4S.
WillLeave a comment:
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what do you mean by this? maybe I wasn't clear enough. when I'm shooting handheld, I'm worried having to lock my focus into the cluster and then having to recompose to frame my shot how I want is going to be annoying.
not true at all. a super tiny wedding, sure. but most weddings in the LA area are pretty big and things happen very, very quickly. everything seems relaxed until you're scrambling around getting PAID to capture every single major moment. thats when you notice how quick things are happening hahaLeave a comment:
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I effectively shoot an D610 (its a d600 with a 610 shutter) I only use a center focus point, that is all you need for any shot. Paint the subject, let autofocus do its thing. Last time I checked, a wedding doesn't move very fast. The low light ability is pretty good, I like having an ISO 50 setting for really bright days when I'm shooting really slow shutter speeds and my ND filter just isnt dark enough.anyone shoot on a D610? I wanna hear reviews on that cluster fuck of focus points.
I'm upgrading bodies to move into wedding photography and don't think having to lock the focus and recompose is ideal for what I'm going to be doing.
however, part of me thinks quickly recomposing after locking the focus might actually be faster than moving the focus points manually. I can't seem to find any reviews on that specifically so here I am...
WillLeave a comment:

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