PSA: Turner J Stock Springs are Available Again

[nogapersnBMWs]

Anyone know ride height in comparison to H&R Race springs?

Have both, practically the same drop except that the H&R J-Stocks spings are stiffer so you will get slightly less static drop in height as spring will compress less.

You don't want to go much lower as your E30's front suspension geometry will get all jacked. You want to keep your control arms and tie rod geometry below parallel in relation to the ground.

For example, when looking at right/passenger side control arm geometry from the front, they should move from 8 to 9 o'clock so they go up and out in arc and strut camber stays negative, not 9 to 10 o'clock'--which would be present on an even lower E30--so they go up and in in arc and induce positive camber as the suspension compresses (I'm only discussing strut camber angle, not tire camber which of course stays and increases in negativity as the suspension compresses at any strut angle).

To be sure, the Ground Control tie rods that help prevent "bump steer" on lowered E30 (with E36 inner tie rods)/E36s (i.e. geometry) is simply a 3/4" or 19mm spacer on the outer tie rod that drops its downwards/towards ground, to keep tie rod geometry angle below parallel to the ground.

This is the "Track and Auto-X" sub-forum where generally "form follows function" where parts are required to properly function (as normally, if class rules allow, one would remove nonessential and/or non-functioning items for weight purposes). If you're looking for "aesthetics" like a "hella flush" super- dropped E30 merely for looks, I suggest the "Apperance and Cosmetic" subforum where many times "function follows form."

[Digitalwave]

The problem with going lower on stock-length struts is mainly the lack of bump travel. It's pretty easy to correct the roll center and bump steer with various kits on the market (MRT makes a nice one, for instance). You want to space the control arm too (roll center), not just the tie rod (bump steer & Ackermann). This is a good idea for any lowered car.

[nogapersnBMWs]

The problem with going lower on stock-length struts is mainly the lack of bump travel. It's pretty easy to correct the roll center and bump steer with various kits on the market (MRT makes a nice one, for instance). You want to space the control arm too (roll center), not just the tie rod (bump steer & Ackermann). This is a good idea for any lowered car.

Yes, all pro team cars generally run on their shocks "external" bump stops all the time, its the "internal" bump stops you want to avoid bottoming out.

And if IIRC the MRT kits are for 2-piece E30 M3 struts, not the 1-piece regular E30 struts (like the "bump steer" shims that go under M3 strut that changes Ackerman angle) ..

[ForcedFirebird]

The thing about the J-Stock, though, is the added/progressive spring rate keeps you from bottoming out so easy. I've dabbled with many of e30 track platforms and will say again, these springs are like coils in compression, but more like H&R (old se30 setup) when curbing the car.

I started HPDE with coils and will never forget the first time I planted a rear corner of a well prepped se30, and I felt the rear shock bottom out before I could gain traction on the exit of t10 SIR - as well as having to delay the throttle input, or risk the front being unweighted and pushing through. Almost as if the car was on a "seesaw". Coils kept the car level, but takes all the fun away from the perks of racing an e30, the J-Stock is a perfect in-between IMO. Granted, take this with a grain if you are sprinting the car, we need brakes/tires/shocks etc to be able to go for 12+ hr straight, and be predictable in as many areas as possible. We were racing in the snow two weeks ago, if that has any indication to the extremes we wring the car through lol.

[Digitalwave]

And if IIRC the MRT kits are for 2-piece E30 M3 struts, not the 1-piece regular E30 struts (like the "bump steer" shims that go under M3 strut that changes Ackerman angle) ..

They make both types (for M and non-M setups).

[Victell]

They make both types (for M and non-M setups).

I know this MRT kit is aimed at drifters, but I wish it had an option to keep the original tie rod location instead of the 30% decrease.

[TKuhl]

So here's a question for you guys, I did my first autox weekend (addicted now) found the car kicks back end out pretty easy if I get on the gas too soon after corner exit (and pushes (understeers) hard especially on corner entry in wet), obviously i need to learn to drive first and foremost, but my question is will it reduce the back end stepping out if I disconnect rear sway bar? I'm running jstocks with 195 14" tires, I figure suspension is too stiff for my traction limits. Have new 225%45/15 setup on its way, but I'm curios if in theory disconnecting rear sway will allow it to roll over and get traction with current tire limitations? I think next event i can test by disconnecting/reconnecting between runs.

[moatilliatta]

So here's a question for you guys, I did my first autox weekend (addicted now) found the car kicks back end out pretty easy if I get on the gas too soon after corner exit (and pushes (understeers) hard especially on corner entry in wet), obviously i need to learn to drive first and foremost, but my question is will it reduce the back end stepping out if I disconnect rear sway bar? I'm running jstocks with 195 14" tires, I figure suspension is too stiff for my traction limits. Have new 225%45/15 setup on its way, but I'm curios if in theory disconnecting rear sway will allow it to roll over and get traction with current tire limitations? I think next event i can test by disconnecting/reconnecting between runs.

What are you’re alignment spec?
Other details?

[Digitalwave]

I know this MRT kit is aimed at drifters, but I wish it had an option to keep the original tie rod location instead of the 30% decrease.

The just posted about a new option that will not change steering ratio.

[obscene]

Raising this from the dead. Looks like the springs are still available but no shocks. Any other suitable OTS shock options these days?

[Digitalwave]

You can have OTS Bilsteins revalved to J-Stock spec for about $75-100 per damper.

[moatilliatta]

You have to find non crimped Bilstein's unless you found a shop that will drill out and add service port for rebuild / re-valve.
.

[moatilliatta]

Whats OTS? Off the shelf?

[Digitalwave]

Off the shelf. I guess some new Bilsteins are crimped, but it shouldn't be hard to find a used set that needs a rebuild anyways on the cheap. You don't have to add a port or modify the ones that don't have crimped bodies.