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The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY

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    Cars with Oil Cooler:

    My car has an Oil Cooler in front of the Condenser (1989 325i Convertible Auto) and I am half way through the Condenser replacement, but seems that the old Condenser will not come out without removing that Oil Cooler first. Has anyone with an Oil Cooler car successfully remove the Condenser with the Oil Cooler in place?
    The other option I see is to remove the Radiator, but I have just done a Cooling System overhaul and would hate to drain the Radiator and remove it and all that goes with that.


    Resolved: I removed the Cooler Lines Bracket then removed the Bolts that hold the Cooler in place and that provided a lot of room to maneuver the Condenser out. I clearly over-reacted.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Westija; 07-05-2021, 01:03 PM.

    Comment


      I have a 91 318is with M42. Any specific lines i would have to make R134a compatible? On realoem, hose 5 and 8 say R12 while the others say R12/R134a. So im assuming 5 and 8 must not be R134a compatible? For 5 im thinking 64538391040 and for 8 64538391051 as replacements but not 100% sure.
      Last edited by AmosCake; 07-07-2021, 04:29 PM.

      Comment


        Any replacement hose you buy new will be r134 compatible
        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
        Alice the Time Capsule
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

        Comment


          Originally posted by AmosCake View Post
          I have a 91 318is with M42. Any specific lines i would have to make R134a compatible? On realoem, hose 5 and 8 say R12 while the others say R12/R134a. So im assuming 5 and 8 must not be R134a compatible? For 5 im thinking 64538391040 and for 8 64538391051 as replacements but not 100% sure.
          RealOEM shows part 1040 superseding the old R12 hose part number, which means 1040 will fit your car. Different situation for part 1051. RealOEM does not show a replacement for the R12 hose (part 4234) and that hose is specific to the M42, so you can't count on 1051 fitting your car. Unless someone with an M42 chimes in here, I would recommend going to your local dealer and asking the question at the parts counter. Up to you whether you buy the hose from them after they help you out (I would).
          1992 325i Cabrio
          1988 320i Touring
          2000 M5
          1977 530i
          2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
          BMWCCA
          E30CCA

          Comment


            Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
            Any replacement hose you buy new will be r134 compatible
            Jeff is probably right, but it would be just my luck to end up with a hose that's been sitting on a shelf since 1988.
            1992 325i Cabrio
            1988 320i Touring
            2000 M5
            1977 530i
            2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
            BMWCCA
            E30CCA

            Comment


              Originally posted by cory58 View Post

              RealOEM shows part 1040 superseding the old R12 hose part number, which means 1040 will fit your car. Different situation for part 1051. RealOEM does not show a replacement for the R12 hose (part 4234) and that hose is specific to the M42, so you can't count on 1051 fitting your car. Unless someone with an M42 chimes in here, I would recommend going to your local dealer and asking the question at the parts counter. Up to you whether you buy the hose from them after they help you out (I would).
              Yeah i searched that part up and its for verts and sedans but since its R134a compatible i checked to see if it would fit and according to ECS tuning it is compatible

              Comment


                Originally posted by cory58 View Post

                Jeff is probably right, but it would be just my luck to end up with a hose that's been sitting on a shelf since 1988.
                The final bits of my AC that I replaced were the 2 hoses that go from the firewall to the evaporator (behind the glove box). They were NOS off of eBay from a seller in Israel. One was NLA and the other was dealer only, hence stupid expensive. The day they arrived I sent them to a hose shop who replaced the decades old new r12 hoses with barrier hose. $75 later it was done.

                im guessing but I doubt you'll find NOS anywhere on the planet. Just sayin' :)
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                Comment


                  Originally posted by nick.cbr View Post

                  This. I made zero changes to my hardware. Verified system held vacuum and charged with FrostyCool R12a that I got on eBay (I think it's a way better deal to buy direct from their website even though shipping is ~$19 though so I'd probably avoid the eBay seller). I was getting 41*F at the center vents on idle (fan on 2, recirc ON) and a consistent 33*F at cruise (at one point I saw 32.x*F). Ambient temp was ~70*F and very high humidity; waiting for the heat to come back to do some more testing but I expect some pretty good performance out of the system.

                  Per the FrostyCool website, I used 11oz of their R12a refrigerant to charge the E30 system that calls for 2.1lbs (+/- .05) of R12. For equipment, I used some manifold gauges, R134a conversion fittings and a two-stage vacuum pump - all off Amazon. I left my existing dual pressure switch setup in place as well as the stock expansion valve. I'm still playing with things so I'll report back with more concrete data on pressures and things like that. I thought I may have overcharged the system so I vented some refrigerant out and now I believe it's under-charged again as my idle vent temps went up to 52*F and cruise vent is 37*F. All of this is on factory R12 parts namely the condenser (fin/tube not parallel flow).

                  I had another E30 325iX converted to R134a about 10 years ago and that car performed admirably; however, I really think sticking with the R12 system (tube and fin condenser), replacing the dryer and all the o-rings is the correct solution for these cars. Based on my research, I'm just not concerned about running a hydrocarbon-based refrigerant either (a common argument against R12a). It is unfortunate that the EPA hasn't approved this as a replacement for R12 systems as it is better for the environment than even R134a (which is no longer in favor anyway as everyone is switching to R1234yf or whatever it is).
                  Would you mind linking the Amazon purchases for the rest of us?

                  Comment


                    Is FrostyCool R12a the same thing as or similar to HC-12a? The FrostyCool web site says it's flammable but doesn't have an MSDS or ingredient list.
                    1992 325i Cabrio
                    1988 320i Touring
                    2000 M5
                    1977 530i
                    2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
                    BMWCCA
                    E30CCA

                    Comment


                      how does one fill the new dryer with PAG oil?

                      Comment


                        You don't fill it. SOP is to add 10cc for a drier or replacement hose and you can use a syringe to measure and push it in.
                        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                        Alice the Time Capsule
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                          You don't fill it. SOP is to add 10cc for a drier or replacement hose and you can use a syringe to measure and push it in.
                          You insert the syringe through one of the ports the hoses connect to? Thanks for response

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by chouchoo View Post

                            Would you mind linking the Amazon purchases for the rest of us?
                            # mineral oil
                            https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010294CQQ...roduct_details

                            # oil injector


                            # valve cores and tool
                            https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MS51CG...roduct_details

                            # additional valve cores
                            https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UC9ONRK...roduct_details

                            # vacuum pump
                            https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UC9ONRK...roduct_details

                            # manifold gauges
                            https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZB3P4X...roduct_details

                            One note on the gauges: if I were to do it all over again, I think I would get the higher-quality Yellow Jacket brand gauges. I had no issues with the ones I bought and they do have a blow molded plastic case that seems to be decent.

                            I used some cheap digital thermometers from Harbor Freight for vent temps.

                            I bought R12a from a guy on eBay but ended up just buying a case direct from them as I knew I would be doing a lot of testing.

                            https://www.frostycool.com/copy-of-f...alent-3x-cans/
                            Last edited by nick.cbr; 08-02-2021, 11:41 PM. Reason: forgot oil injector

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by cory58 View Post
                              Is FrostyCool R12a the same thing as or similar to HC-12a? The FrostyCool web site says it's flammable but doesn't have an MSDS or ingredient list.
                              I'm not qualified to answer that question; it's essentially propane and isobutane and I'm guessing each company has their special blend. They're hydrocarbon-based and flammable.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by nick.cbr View Post
                                I had a bit of a setback. I couldn't for the life of me get the low-side pressure to come up at all. Would stay around 5-8psi - high side was ~150psi. The vent temp was exceptionally cold but after 30-40 minutes of driving, the vent temps would start to increase to low-mid 50's (F). I'm pretty sure the evaporator core was freezing up (also noticed fan performance wasn't quite as good and sounded a bit different. Without being able to see in there, I'm just guessing. The thought is the thermal expansion valve (TXV) is hung up and not metering flow well enough which is causing very low temps but eventually ending in an ice-over condition. At this point I've ordered new hoses, TXV, o-rings, dryer, low switch, high switch and a new tube/fin condenser to get to a point where I know what I have. I'm also poking around trying to sort out the parts necessary to run through the compressor as well. There is a guy over on mye28.com that rebuilds them but I'd prefer to try it myself if I can.
                                My issue turned out to be a bad TXV. Replaced the TXV and charged with about 11oz of R12a from FrostyCool. Low side pressures came up to about 45psi which now seems high and 115psi on the high side which seems low. That said, vent temps are stable at 40*F at freeway speeds I can run for over and hour and the evap doesn't seem to freeze up as it will just run at 40*F. I haven't done anything else to the system other than change the TXV to a later R134 unit (Egelhof brand).

                                So now the issue is the car cannot maintain 40*F air at idle or low speed (30MPH or less). My entire cooling system is brand new (including viscous fan clutch) and the aux fan immediately starts to spin on low as soon as the AC button is pressed (or the recirc is on which is kind of odd). Obviously 40*F at idle in the drive thru is probably unrealistic for this system but I feel like it should at least do high 40's or low 50's on idle. It looks like my aux fan is one of the old style 5 blade units; wondering if I should try a newer version. I really don't want to go full hack and install a universal Spal fan though...

                                My compressor started kind of ticking as well... added a bit of oil as I've evac'd and recharged so many times now testing all this stuff so probably need to rebuild that now. Anyway, just posting my progress in case it helps anyone.

                                I should add that I don't really know what I'm doing/learning as I go.
                                Last edited by nick.cbr; 08-02-2021, 11:45 PM.

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