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  • varg
    No R3VLimiter
    • May 2014
    • 3287

    #16
    That's one I've never seen before, the spring from a front main seal came off and got pinched between the sprocket and crank during hub installation?

    IG @turbovarg
    '91 318is, M20 turbo
    [CoTM: 4-18]
    '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
    '93 RX-7 FD3S

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    • JerEazy
      Noobie
      • Jun 2025
      • 24

      #17
      Originally posted by varg
      That's one I've never seen before, the spring from a front main seal came off and got pinched between the sprocket and crank during hub installation?
      I dont think the gear sits flush against the seal otherwise it would just tear the seal as soon as it spun turned over? Not sure. And there wasn’t a leak at installation and after test drive (did a smoke test after installation to be sure).

      Only theory I have is that the seal blew out, and the spring got caught and twisted around. It was wrapped around the crank, I had to unwrap it to get it off. There was a chunk of the seal in the bottom of the housing.
      Last edited by JerEazy; 11-03-2025, 08:23 AM.

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      • digger
        R3V Elite
        • Nov 2005
        • 5926

        #18
        Originally posted by JerEazy

        I dont think the gear sits flush against the seal otherwise it would just tear the seal as soon as it spun turned over? Not sure. And there wasn’t a leak at installation and after test drive (did a smoke test after installation to be sure).

        Only theory I have is that the seal blew out, and the spring got caught and twisted around. It was wrapped around the crank, I had to unwrap it to get it off. There was a chunk of the seal in the bottom of the housing.
        the seal fits about half way back on the journal as shown by the witness mark. As Varg stated the only way it indented there was if it was there before the crank gear was installed (maybe from the old seal) and the tightening of the bolt is the only way to generate enough force to imprint
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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        • JerEazy
          Noobie
          • Jun 2025
          • 24

          #19
          Originally posted by digger

          the seal fits about half way back on the journal as shown by the witness mark. As Varg stated the only way it indented there was if it was there before the crank gear was installed (maybe from the old seal) and the tightening of the bolt is the only way to generate enough force to imprint
          before I reinstall I am going to post up a picture of the seals installed so i can get thumbs up from the pros on its setting. Currently awaiting delivery.

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          • digger
            R3V Elite
            • Nov 2005
            • 5926

            #20
            buy a good brand seal, makes sure it wont sit on the exact same groove in the crank by installing it slightly deeper or shallower into the timing cover but it must sit "square" in the cover, grease it and be careful you dont bend/fold the lip over on install other wise it will get a fine crack and leak in a short time. Perhaps heating it slightly with heat gun may make it more compliant/softer but i have never done this.

            It would have been nice if the designers of the shafts had a proper lead in chamfer that complied with the manufacturers requirements. There are special tools around to help with lead in e.g. the rear main comes with one
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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