Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #46
    So I talked to my machine shop about inspecting the short block a little later down the road but we decided to finish the valve job and resurface the head but he needed me to bring in my timing cover.

    With a friend of mine we started early and starting tearing it down. We got the timing cover that he needed and still had some time before we had family matters to tend to so we kept on going. We’ll finish up removing the head the next car day.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Comment


      #47
      Glad you have a helping hand, and looking forward to your findings!

      Comment


        #48
        So I got the head back from the shop and looks all good. My next task is to get the block checked out.

        Currently the car just has the valve cover, throttle body, cooling system, intake manifold and upper timing removed.

        I was going to continue to remove the cylinder head but are there specifics steps I need to take regarding the timing components if all of it is coming out with the short block too?

        Do I separate transmission then take out the block and what’s left of the head in one piece?



        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

        Comment


          #49
          Pictures of head gasket?

          If the cylinder head checked out ok, and the head gasket looks ok. Id probably have another shop check the cylinder head out.

          Sometimes the leaks dont show until the vehicle is up to temp. I would be worried about the cylinder head condition, especially if you got it hot!

          My take on things.
          Remove Engine completely, get a 4 wheeled engine stand from harbor freight/ craigslist.
          Acquire m44 motor stuff the rotating assy into the m42 block if it checks out.
          You're going to need a fresh cylinder bore with those miles. (85v84 bore)
          Just replace all valve guides and lifters (Mileage)
          Dig around for a really good machine shop thru you local car community, Be cautious as this will the most important step in a motor build.
          Its ok if it's just hotrod guys, If they are smart and willing to work on it, they will figure it out.
          Have them do the cylinder head and bottom end, If they want to lap your valves, move on to another shop. The cost and hassle of acquiring tools and tolerances will be the payoff of a good machine shop doing the work.
          Replace timing chain, and guides, Maybe do a single row chain.
          Check out some books and watch some youtube!

          Replacing gaskets and a can of paint isn't a motor rebuild.

          Yes a used motor will be cheaper.
          Last edited by moatilliatta; 08-30-2018, 09:01 AM.
          Zach@Zakspeed.us

          Comment


            #50
            https://www.amazon.com/BMW-E30-Servi.../dp/0837616476
            Zach@Zakspeed.us

            Comment


              #51
              does anyone know where i can rent an engine hoist? i thought auto zone used to rent these out, but i called them and i guess they don't. pep boys doesn't either. my harbor freight has an engine hoist for $180, but i'd try to save where i can if i can rent something for cheaper.

              Comment


                #52
                Craigslist, Or check your local BMW CCA chapter. Usually always somebody helpful on there if you can find a local here.

                Can always sell when you're done. Just make sure its not sketchy, what comes up must come down.
                Zach@Zakspeed.us

                Comment


                  #53
                  I just picked one up at harbor freight. I figure I'd use it more than a few times. It was on sale and there was an additional labor day coupon.

                  I found this thread on bimmerforums that I was gonna follow:

                  https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-an-M42-engine

                  Is this pretty much all of it?



                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Its pretty simple, might want to take off the hood from the start to help give you some more room.

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Yeah, taking the hood off prior to hoisting the engine out helps! I am sure someone here has done it without removing the hood lol, but I wouldn't. Also, if you plan to leave the transmission attached, you will need a load leveler for the hoist. You can take the engine+tranny out as a single unit if you are able to adjust the tilt/angle of it all as you lift it out.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

                        Back from the dead! Life happens especially now I have a new kid. But I wanted to get some progress going so I didn’t feel like a total failure. I got the head off finally since I only had a few steps to go.

                        For safe measure I was recommended to take the block to a shop to have it inspected because of the supposed high mileage it had. Since I already got the head redone. I now how to take out the cams from the old head and transfer to the revalved head. Any tips?


                        Comment


                          #57
                          Congrats on the new little one.

                          As to the cams, work slowly when removing the nuts and maybe utilize a pattern, although I am not aware of an official one. Don't forget lube on the cam bearings before you put the caps on.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            thanks roguetoaster! as far as removing the block to get it to the machine shop, would you recommend taking it out with the transmission, or remove just the block. is there away to use the engine hoist without the cylinder head on it?

                            Comment


                              #59
                              If you have a way to control the tilt of the motor then take it out with the transmission attached, it's easier than uninstalling and reinstalling the transmission in car. Put head bolts in through the links of the chain, with washers if the chain links are too large. You can't reuse them anyway so no worries about bending them, and a tightened head bolt is under thousands of pounds of tension so it's not like you're going to hurt the threads in the block doing that.
                              @turbovarg
                              '91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
                              [b u i l d]
                              [Car of the month: April 2018]

                              0c8b7c9527af628a346878feb14bf757

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Totally agree with varg, as one unit is much easier, and that's a solid suggestion on the head bolts.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X