E30ls1

[Nick_08]

The rubber lines should be no problem as long as you mount them securely and out of the way. Also, you do not need to put hose clamps on twist-loc fittings.

I believe the rubber lines are a larger diameter than the stock hard lines as well.

Edit* I would recommend finding and mounting the fuel filter/regulator in a good location and then route your fuel lines avoiding sharp bends.

[Reyhan335]

The rubber lines should be no problem as long as you mount them securely and out of the way. Also, you do not need to put hose clamps on twist-loc fittings.



I believe the rubber lines are a larger diameter than the stock hard lines as well.

With everything that's been going wrong with my swap, i figured why not to put some extra security to it, that's the rubber line that came from the tank, i just connected it to the filter, the other line is the RT feed so i have to find a fitting to make it from that little hose to the bigger hose to the filter.
Then I'll connect the feed line with the hose i got from the kit with a reducer fitting to the steel line under the car.


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[Q8y_drifter]

This is what I did with mine



Mounted in the same spot Nick used, bent a new 3/8" hardline from the filter/regulator all the way to the front.

In the front I flared the line for a 3/8" quick disconnect fitting then used a short 3/8" SAE J30R9 hose to connect to the fuel rail. Works like a charm never had a problem.

[Reyhan335]

Has anyone personally used a PSI harness?


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[Q8y_drifter]

Me.

[Reyhan335]

Me.

Do you remember howd you connect the starter and fuel pump to it? I'm confused with the directions and wiring is not my strong point.


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[Q8y_drifter]

Starter
1. Large battery cable from battery positive to starter positive stud (large stud on bottom).
2. Smaller starter solenoid wire (Must be 12V+ cranking only) from C101 to starter solenoid (small stud).

I'm using a standalone switch panel so I've deleted C101 entirely, but from what I've read online the starter solenoid wire is pin 18 black/yellow. You can confirm with a multimeter if you cycle the key through the ignition switch positions.

Borrowed pic from Google to show starter studs.




Fuel pump
Page 11 on the PSI manual shows the wiring for the pump. Just make sure you use a thick quality wire for the fuel pump feed wire from the relay.

Edit: I vaguely remember the fuel pump relay was already prewired by PSI on mine so all that was required was to connect the feed wire to the pump and make sure the pump is well grounded as well. I can check my car in a couple days if you want.

[Reyhan335]

Starter
1. Large battery cable from battery positive to starter positive stud (large stud on bottom).
2. Smaller starter solenoid wire (Must be 12V+ cranking only) from C101 to starter solenoid (small stud).

I'm using a standalone switch panel so I've deleted C101 entirely, but from what I've read online the starter solenoid wire is pin 18 black/yellow. You can confirm with a multimeter if you cycle the key through the ignition switch positions.

Borrowed pic from Google to show starter studs.




Fuel pump
Page 11 on the PSI manual shows the wiring for the pump. Just make sure you use a thick quality wire for the fuel pump feed wire from the relay.

I had it to the black and yellow wire and it still wouldn't work. I connected a wire from the starter directly to the c101 18th pin. And nothing happened. That's why I was trying to go through the harness


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[Q8y_drifter]

The harness does not control the starter in any way. Have you tried connecting a wire from the battery directly to the starter solenoid to test the starter?

[Reyhan335]

The harness does not control the starter in any way. Have you tried connecting a wire from the battery directly to the starter solenoid to test the starter?

Starter turns. It's new. On the harness it says two wires go to the starter. Just don't know how it connects to the c101


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[Q8y_drifter]

The wire from the harness that goes to the starter supplies the PCM with 12V+. Technically you can wire that directly to the battery or alternator to get 12V+.

Stupid question, the factory fuse box is hooked up to the battery right?

I'm not very familiar troubleshooting the factory E30 ignition/starter wiring so hopefully someone else can chime in.

[Reyhan335]

E30ls1

Factory box is hooked up to the battery. Idk I worked on it for a couple hours and was just tired and figured to ask y'all


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[Nick_08]

Sorry for being naive but what year is your car (you said early model before, but you have a c101). There is small harness differences. This thread covers it all: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=163088

Quote from linked thread "Pin#18 – Black/Yellow – START – From the start position of the ignition switch to c101 then on to terminal 50 in the starter. This is the signal that tells the car to engage the starter motor and turn the car on. Powered only when the key is in start mode. In early cars the functions of c101 pin 15(see above) were combined into this pin. Instead of the unloader relays being grounded right at the starter they were grounded at the starter through this pin. i.e. the unloaders relays were connected to the start signal before c101 in the car instead of inside the starter. Obviously you need to hook this one up."

You shouldn't have a pin 15 I'm assuming.^

When you turn your key to the start position it should have 12+V at pin 18. Once you confirm that take a look at your harness and using a multimeter take the wire your going to use for pin 18 and test continuity at the other end your going to connect to the starter (just to make sure your using the right wire).

Obviously you need to make sure you have the large power wire connected from battery to the solenoid as well.

Should work...you need to make sure the fuse box is getting power too! Or there will be no power at pin 18.

GL -Nick

[Reyhan335]

Sorry for being naive but what year is your car (you said early model before, but you have a c101). There is small harness differences. This thread covers it all: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=163088

Quote from linked thread "Pin#18 – Black/Yellow – START – From the start position of the ignition switch to c101 then on to terminal 50 in the starter. This is the signal that tells the car to engage the starter motor and turn the car on. Powered only when the key is in start mode. In early cars the functions of c101 pin 15(see above) were combined into this pin. Instead of the unloader relays being grounded right at the starter they were grounded at the starter through this pin. i.e. the unloaders relays were connected to the start signal before c101 in the car instead of inside the starter. Obviously you need to hook this one up."

You shouldn't have a pin 15 I'm assuming.^

When you turn your key to the start position it should have 12+V at pin 18. Once you confirm that take a look at your harness and using a multimeter take the wire your going to use for pin 18 and test continuity at the other end your going to connect to the starter (just to make sure your using the right wire).

Obviously you need to make sure you have the large power wire connected from battery to the solenoid as well.

Should work...you need to make sure the fuse box is getting power too! Or there will be no power at pin 18.

GL -Nick

That's the one i had it connected to and nothing. i don't know. i'll get to it when i finish this fuel filter situation. Trying to fit it in where the external pump was at is kind of hard with the limited amount of space.

also it's an 87 325es

[Reyhan335]

This is how we spend Valentine's day

So I finally got the fuel filter under there. It's not pretty. But it works. When it runs and I can put it at the lift I'll make it look nice. (No I won't if it works it'll be left just like this)


Connected the fuel line to the hard line at the bottom. Routed the line all the way up. Around the strut arm.


My girl and I got some wire going through the hole and up to the front. Labeled them as well


Gotta get the battery charged tomorrow and then I can put it in the car. Connect the fuel pump wires. The ignition wire. Then try to start the car. I'm pretty sure that's the only wires I'll need connected to get it running.

It's coming along guys. I'm super stoked.



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