I am fortunate my cars central locking system works. From the trunk it works perfectly and easily. However my drivers side door requires an uncomfortable amount of effort to go to lock or 'double lock'. Is it safe to use graphite powder for locks in there? I'm afraid it will eventually snap the key, but it would be nice not to have to use the trunk all the time.
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Now is a good time to install the alarm system to get the keyless unlock function. -
In the meantime I guess I will use the trunk, which works flawlessly. I know this issue is common on e30s, I was hoping theres a fix for it-- even if it requires some disassembly.Originally posted by uturn View Post
I just finished fixing up the motor, but soon I'll be tackling the front (then rear) suspension. When I get all that done, AC, keyless entry, stereo, cruise control and other small things are on the list.Comment
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Very common, that's why I stopped using the keys a long time ago and install alarms with keyless entry. You can rebuild the lock but it's a lot of work and I hear the kit is NLA."I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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the lock itself will be broken. there is no fix at the moment. the supplier has stopped making the repair kits. a lot of us are unhappy over it. it's component on 51211924903 that breaks. it is only available in repair kit 51219061343. there is an ebay seller making a printed part in the $300 dollar range. everyone is holding out for the kit, but it's not looking good.Originally posted by 88Sedan View Post
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My
, do not "double lock" your E30. That feature was fine when the cars were new but now with worn out locks and linkages that you cannot rebuild because the parts are NLA, you risk locking yourself out any time you do that. I tried it once and I battled with the lock for a long time to get the key out of that position. Lubricating it, wiggling the key, tapping on the door, etc. before it finally moved and I felt like I was going to break something with the effort it required.
Any kit recommendations? I disabled my lock actuators because there's something with the system that caused it to rapidly cycle the actuators at random and I didn't have time to deal with it, if I manage to fix that and can stop using the ever-tightening lock cylinders or lock/unlock from the trunk I would be happy with the result.Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17Comment
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Not really, keyless kits have been around for decades. DEI, Omega are quality supported products that I have used. Really, all they do is provide a ground pulse to the central locking unit to lock/unlock. Quite simple, but obviously your factory central locking must work otherwise you'll need an aftermarket relay module kit to operate the actuators. It sounds like you have a short somewhere. Hopefully, it's within the module itself and you can repair or swap it out. I used to grab these for $5 at the junkyards.Originally posted by varg View Post"I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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FYI... the central locking module is in the left footwell. You'll need to pull the speaker to access it.Comment
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I bought this Omega REC-43T+ keyless locking system for $40 on Amazon. Works perfectly:
These instructions:
1992 318i cabrio Alpinweiss 2
2006 ZHP cabrio ImolaComment
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