E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_72. ETK_41_Body. Simultaneous closing (supplement).

A small addition to the previous entry about locks.
Recently, by chance, I saw for sale a tank cover with a lock, but without a key. It's not expensive, but I bought it just in case...
I thought that later I would somehow buy another one, break them apart, and from two lids, I would somehow assemble one lid under my key...since they are not collapsible, in principle...
I received the parcel, twisted the cover in my hands, wanted to try to take it apart or break it...



And then I think - suddenly my key will fit... I tried it - something clicked... it opened! I thought it was over...but no!


I cleaned it, lubricated it, put a new rubber gasket on it - it works perfectly!


It cannot be opened with the other two keys. This happens once in a lifetime, and not everyone! (c) It is surprising that the key fit, considering the number of possible combinations of the lock. So now I have ALL the locks under one key, and I didn't have to break the covers.
I put it in place of my usual one.


There is an inscription on the lid with a lock - "1 without ventilation" - what does this mean?


There was a standard cover:


Now the lid with the lock:


But this cover, unlike the standard one, is not very well fixed in the bracket on the tank hatch, but it is not critical.


The double protection of the tank lid was a "bonus" - a central lock and a lock on the lid! :) But that's more plus another option in the complete set of the car, not protection ;)

By the way, I was really lucky with the locks - at a good price I bought a new blank key with backlight - exactly the one I was going to order.



Now, for a complete set, you need to order more blanks of a compact and service key and find a master to cut the necessary code on them, and not spoil the blanks! )
From the same seller, I bought another original artifact - wheel bolts with locks.


I cleaned it, greased it - the locks work, but unfortunately, there is only one key, not four, as it should be, and there are no plastic covers. I will make the keys together with the main keys, and the covers can be printed on a 3D printer, because they are not sold separately.

But there is a problem with the driver's door lock for the central lock - my order was canceled because it is no longer available in stock... So far I have not been able to find it even in flea markets... I am looking.

During this time, I found a few more useful things.

A set of original shields and air ducts in perfect condition.



I already wrote about them before, but then I bought only shields - a new analog. So for comparison - in the original, the stamping and material is much better.


And the air ducts are fixed in the original shields much better than in the Chinese ones.


Along with the tank cover, I bought the original cover for the rear license plate. I have one, but the price was such that it would not be wise not to buy it - it will be in stock ;)



Why was it necessary to drill holes? Especially in the center... Although they are closed with a number.

And another rare item, which I also already have ;) A shelf with a curtain.



The condition is normal, although I need it for an experiment, but more on that later.

I planned another "experiment" with the color of the interior, but I will also write about it a little later in a separate topic.

On the car, I did something on the interior, on the air conditioner, I am waiting for parts from electroplating, I prepared the external parts for painting in semi-matte black... But then there is no time, then there is no desire to write about it all... But somehow later I will write...

[The_Glory]

Collection_72. ETK_41_Body. Simultaneous closing.

I forgot about another ETK chapter on locks! :)

Simultaneous locking


Part #1 - a complete set of locks and keys for a car without a central lock (51 21 1 904 724) and for a car with a central lock (51 21 1 904 727). I'm not sure if they are still available to order, but recently they were still available, although not cheap.
Part #2 - not used.

The kit for a car without a central lock (51 21 1 904 724) looks like this (photo from the Internet):



The kit for cars with a central lock (51 21 1 904 727) looks like this (photo from the Internet):


As you can see from the photo, there is a difference in the availability of the tank cover kit and differences in the locks of the driver's door and the trunk.

In my case it looks like this:


There is no trunk lock in the photo, because it was previously installed on the car. I ordered a new driver's door lock for the central locking - I'm waiting for it to arrive from Germany. They promised in three weeks... Then I will write about him separately.
Additional keys will also need to be ordered later.

By the way, a few words about the ignition lock. I already wrote that it is not collapsible, but if you drill a hole in the outer black ring, or make an incision, you can gain access to the locking ring and disassemble it to get your key. If you do it carefully and put it with the slot down, it will not be noticeable. I have a lock key that fits, so I didn't need to do that. Therefore, I will write only about how to remove the lock. Very easy. Turn the key to position 1. On machines before restyling, there is a special hole in the lock housing, into which you need to insert a thin screwdriver and press.


Take out the lock.


Then just snap it into the case.
On cars after restyling, it is even easier - there is a special hole right next to the slot for the key - you don't even need to remove the plastic covers of the steering column. But there is no hole in the lock body. In this regard, there is an important nuance - if you click the early lock into the restyling case, it will no longer be possible to remove it.


So, with that, I completely wrap up the big ETK chapter
Body

Next, there will be several entries on the wiring of additional options, and then, finally, there will be an assembly of the interior.

[The_Glory]

Collection_71. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glass guides.

I already wrote about glass guides and seals in the section on glass installation, but I forgot about this separate ETK section... Anyway, I will write briefly, for order :)
Front window guide




Part No. 1 - rubber glass guide left (51 32 1 907 289) and right (51 32 1 907 290) - is not available to order. It is placed in the door frame, and also serves as a glass seal.
Part No. 3 (pad No. 2 + seal No. 4) - right corner pad (51 32 1 924 918) - is used only on the simplest equipment, - without a passenger mirror. It is placed instead of a mirror. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 5 - cover left (51 32 1 904 517) and right (51 32 1 904 518) - plastic decorative cover. In my case, it is replaced by optional pads with tweeters, so it is not used.
Part #6 - M5 nut (63 25 9 128 043) - for fastening part #3. Not used.
Part No. 7 - plastic insert (51 32 1 874 407) - 4 pcs. for fastening part No. 5.


Parts #8-10 - metal glass guides, used only on lever window lifts (after April 1988).
On cable glass elevators, the guide wire is also a guide for the glass, so they are not used in this case.
So, you need to install only two parts - insert the rubber guide No. 1 into the groove of the door frame, and plastic inserts No. 7 into the special holes near the mirror.
done


On the other hand, similarly.

Now the back door.
Rear window guide




Part #1 - metal guide left (51 34 1 906 591) and right (51 34 1 906 592).
Part No. 2 - bolt M6x12 (07 11 9 915 015) - 4 pcs., for fastening guides No. 1.
Part No. 3 - rubber glass guide left (51 34 1 906 807) and right (51 34 1 906 808).
Part No. 4 is a rubber seal for the left (51 34 1 906 747) and right (51 34 1 906 748) blind glass.
Part No. 5 - tip (51 34 1 922 700) - is not available to order. I did not understand what this part was, I did not have it. Similar to the additional seal for guide No. 1. But it is already provided for on seal No. 4. Perhaps parts No. 4 and No. 5 began to be made with one part. Unfortunately, this photo turned out to be of poor quality.


Parts #6-9 - metal glass guides, used only on lever window lifts (after April 1988).
On cable glass elevators, the guide wire is also a guide for the glass, so they are not used in this case.

I will repeat an important point - on the back door, before installing the glass lifters and guides, you must first insert the glass into the door. Only then can the blind glass and guide seals be installed.


So, we insert and lower the glass to the bottom of the door, then we put on the seal No. 4 on the blind glass, and tightly insert it into the groove of the door frame.


Then we insert the guide No. 1 into the door and insert it into the hole in the door frame at the top. We press the blind glass with it and fasten it from below with two #2 bolts.


We insert the rubber guide No. 3 into the groove of the door frame.
On the other hand, similarly.

Now you can wind the glass in the rubber guides and fix it on the window lifter - I already wrote about this earlier.

On the doors, I only had to put locks on the driver's door and door trim.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Heating the lock cylinder. (part 2) (ECU repair)

I have already mentioned several times about the heating of the lock cylinder and the interior lighting delay timer. Here are its main elements:


For its operation, wiring and a special mechanism of the driver's door handle are also required - with an additional contact.


But there is one problem - probably 95% of these ECUs do not work because of a broken contact. Mine was still working, but judging by the crack, it didn't have long left to live either... With each opening of the door, this contact bends, and eventually breaks. The soldered new contact will not last long there either.


I had an idea how to repair it, just like I promised - I will write about it separately.
I had several such ECUs with broken contacts. Someone has already tried to disassemble one of them, but it is absolutely not disassembled - it is filled with hard sealant. So I just cut it! Some radio parts are visible inside, but it is obvious that it is not disassembled.


But all I need from it is the top part of its case and not a big piece of wire of the appropriate color (brown green) from its wiring. The broken lampshade of the trunk lighting also came in handy - namely, the contact from it.


Therefore, we carefully cut off the top cover, crimp the terminal on the wire, and bend the contact from the ceiling to the shape of the ECU case.


The idea is as follows - we duplicate the factory contact with a wire.


We press the new contact to the body with the same cover.


We connect the wire


The thickness of the contact from the lampshade is 3-4 times greater than the factory contact of the ECU - it will be difficult to break it ;)


So, I am implementing my idea.
We solder the wire with the terminal to the remains of the factory contact of the ECU.


We press it with a new contact.


On the other side is a place for a terminal.


Lubricate the cover and the body of the ECU with body sealant, and glue the cover, pressing it to the new contact.


done




After the sealant dries, we clean the edges of its remains, and we get what looks like the original ECU, but with a duplicate contact.


The door handle mechanism will close the new contact to the soldered wire, and just in case, duplicate the contact through the wire.




I installed the ECU in its place, connected it to the door wiring.


We raise the external handle, and it closes the contact, pressing it to the soldered wire.


And additionally through the wire itself with the terminal.


The new contact is held firmly under the cover, so it should work for a long time and without fail! :)

P.S.
The ECU is still available for order (61 31 1 374 784), but with its price of about $100-150, I consider such a repair quite reasonable. ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_33. ETK_61_Wire bundles (part 2) (installation of door wiring)

In the first part, I described in detail all the connectors of the door wiring and their expansion. Now we will talk about installing the wiring in the door.
I remind you, wiring for all four doors for maximum configuration with additional options.


I start with the driver's door. The door wiring is wound from the outside, through the hole in the front end of the door, and fixed with a rubber corrugation. In my case, the factory alarm system is installed, so there is a magnetic lock cable with its own, separate, connector in the door connector.


This significantly complicates the connection of the door wiring to the main wiring - very inconvenient, so it took a lot of time. The body constantly fell inside the body, or did not press the rubber corrugation. By the way, the corrugation must be immediately tightly put on the body of the door connector, and then clamped between two parts of its body. If you first connect the connector, and then try to put a rubber corrugation on it, it will not hold. Often for this reason, water gets there, and the contacts oxidize and rot.
In the end, I did it!


Now we lay out the wiring in the door and fix it. This requires 4 red clips, 4 gray clips, 1 bracket, 2 tie rods and tape.


The wiring to the electric drive of the mirror, to the button for its adjustment, and to the tweeter is brought up and fixed with three red clips. The wiring to the adjustment button is then fixed with two smaller gray clips, and leads to the cabin handle. The wiring to the tweeter is brought out through a special hole and laid to the front corner of the door, fixed with tape (this is how it was from the factory). It is not very convenient to pull them through, I do not understand why they were not laid together with the wires to the electric mirror drive...


Next, the window regulator motor is connected, and the harness is fixed with two ties at the bottom of the cutout in the door.


In the rear part of the door, the wiring of the central lock, alarm and heating of the lock is fixed with a red clip and connected to the electric drive of the central lock. The connectors of the end of the key and heating of the lock are inserted into a special bracket.


I don't have the standard lock and magnetic lock installed yet, so the wiring to them is not fixed yet. It will be fixed with two gray clips on the lock plate and on the door lock mechanism - so that it does not interfere with the lowering of the glass (I will show it later on the passenger door).


Let's go to the passenger door. In fact, everything is similar, but a little simpler, since the wiring is a little less.
We pull the wiring into the door through the hole in the front end, connect and fix the rubber corrugation.


Now we lay out the wiring in the door and fix it. This requires 3 red clips, 3 gray clips, 1 bracket, 2 ties and tape.


The wiring to the electric drive of the mirror and to the tweeter is led upwards and fixed with three red clips. The wiring to the tweeter is brought out through a special hole and laid to the front corner of the door, fixed with tape (this is how it was from the factory).


Next, the window regulator motor is connected, and the harness is fixed with two ties at the bottom of the cutout in the door.


In the rear part of the door, the wiring of the central lock is fixed with a gray clip, and is connected to the electric drive of the central lock. The connector of the end of the key is inserted into a special bracket.




The wiring of the end of the key is fixed with two gray clips on the lock plate and on the door mechanism of the lock - so that it does not interfere with the lowering of the glass.




It's even easier with the rear doors. The door wiring is wound from the outside, through the hole in the front end of the door, and fixed with a rubber corrugation. One nuance - in order to more easily push the window regulator button connector housing through the round hole, you need to open its top cover.
The door wiring connector is inserted into the hole in the middle pillar of the body and on the other side is also fixed with a rubber corrugation.

Thus, unlike the front door, the connector on the rear door is connected to the main wiring in the middle of the body rack, so water does not get on it and it is stored much better. The connector is fixed in the niche of the middle pillar of the body, near the oval opening, with a special bracket.
Now we lay out the wiring in the door and fix it. For this you need 4 screeds.


The wiring of the window regulator button is led upwards, into a special hole near the door handle.
Next, the window regulator motor is connected, and the harness is fixed with four ties on top of the cutout in the door.
In the rear part of the door, the wiring of the central lock is connected to the electric drive of the central lock.

Similarly on the other side.




The door wiring is installed.

Although, I will write separately about the heating wiring of the driver's door lock and about the repair of its ECU.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_70. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 4)

I return to wiring again. In the third part, I focused on laying the rear part of the interior wiring. There was a delay with the front one due to the fact that the fuse block was not yet fixed, as it was still necessary to wire the air conditioner. I have already done it, but there will be separate entries about the air conditioner.
So, the fuse box is fully equipped with all relays and original fuses, rated according to ETM, and fixed to the body. I just polished the cover so far, but it will be necessary to buy a new one with all the inscriptions.




All wiring harnesses of additional options are pulled through a rubber insert in the engine shield, and placed under the steering column.
The wiring of the on-board control system, electric sunroof, mirrors with lamps for reading maps and additional interior lighting are laid up along the front roof rack.


Installed later brackets for wiring (black, in background) and for C302 accessory connectors and C103 torpedo wiring connector (white). With them, it is much more convenient to connect the wiring of additional options.


Had to use part of the early black bracket to mount my early C103 connector to the white bracket.


Cut off the right part.


And installed it in the grooves of the white bracket. Not ideal, but it holds... The comfort relay had to be rearranged under the C302 connector.


Connected and installed in the niche of the left speaker are the ECU of the central locking and the ECU of the heating of the driver's lock and the interior lighting delay timer (I already mentioned them earlier).


The power supply of the "electric package" is connected - the central lock, the electric window comfort relay, the electric windows and the electric sunroof.
Connecting the wiring of electric windows and electric sunroof through the fuse button. Two white and one black connectors, which cannot be confused with each other.


The central lock is connected to pin D (green) of connector C302.
The comfort relay connects to pin Q (white black) and pin Z (red yellow) of connector C302.


For some reason, the "mass" wires turned out to be a little short and did not reach the G200 point - in order not to make additional twists, I had to fasten them with a white bracket bolt - not critical.


The "ground" wire of the comfort relay (brown-blue) is connected to the terminal of the driver's door. The wire of the comfort relay (brown-blue), which goes to the end of the right door, is connected to the corresponding contact. Thus, the relay works from both doors.


I already wrote earlier that two-contact end switches are installed on the front doors. The "ground" wire of the lock heating relay and lighting timer (brown-violet) is connected to the second contact, and the standard wire of the limit switch (brown-yellow) is connected to its corresponding contact. In the photo, a black wire is also connected - to the signal light on.


By the way, the contacts of several more options are connected to the driver's terminal, so there is a whole "garland" of contacts. I will write about them separately for each option.

We connect the main "ground" wires at point G200, and the power supply of the ignition switch C200. We fix its C200 connector on the steering column in special grooves. We connect the brake light switch.


We lay and fix the wiring of the window regulators and the fuse button through the tunnel.


We lay the wiring of additional options parallel to the harnesses of the main wiring on the right threshold.


But we put it in the niche of the right speaker, to the right door. We connect the standard "ground" wire of the interior lighting (brown and purple) to the terminal of the right door. We connect the wire from the comfort relay (brown-blue) to the second contact of the terminal.


All wiring for additional options is laid along the left threshold. Although it physically did not fit into the factory brackets, I had to use plastic ties.


It still looks a bit "chaotic" under the wheel, but in fact, all that remains is to connect everything after installing the torpedo.


So, all the wiring is laid in the cabin.
I will write about each option separately, in the corresponding section of ETK.
And next time I will write about laying the door wiring.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_46. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing (part 2)

Glazing


I recently wrote about the side glass, but I stopped at the fact that I removed the tint and washed it.
Seals and shadow line overlays are already installed, so now you can install glass in the door.
I did find two more green SOLIVER G glasses with Belgium code E6 - now all the glass in the door is from the same manufacturer, with the same stamp, as it should be.
Took the glass to be polished.


Well, what can I say - a miracle did not happen! :) A few deep scratches still remained, but the overall effect is there - the glass became smoother and transparent, without small scratches and scuffs. To remove deep scratches, you don't need polishing, but grinding. This is a more time-consuming process, and its cost is close to the cost of new glass. So I decided that a simple polish would be enough for me ;)
The factory green tint of the glass is clearly visible on the white.








The front glass is installed very simply. We bring it vertically inside the door, turn and insert the front bracket, its groove on the roller of the window regulator.


With a special key from a set of tools, we expose the glass so that through the hole in the door there is access to the two bolts on the back bracket of the glass. Align the glass and tighten the bolts.


We try to raise and lower the glass, if necessary, loosen the bolts securing the window regulator and the glass. We adjust and align the glass along the guides, then tighten all the bolts.
Now you can install the external, internal seal and decorative strip. The slats are now also a shadow line, as they should be.


The front glass is installed. Everything is similar on the left.


Let's move on to the rear door - here everything turned out to be more complicated... In order to install the rear glass, it was necessary to completely remove the window lifter, vertical glass support, seals and blind glass. If I had known this earlier, I wouldn't have put it all :)
After that, we insert the glass inside the door and lower it to the very bottom.


Then we install the blind glass with its seal - just tightly into the groove of the door frame. We insert the vertical rack from above into the hole on the door frame, press the blind glass and fasten the rack at the bottom with two bolts. Insert the seals.


Now we lift the glass up along the guides of the seal. If it does not hold, then we prop it up with something. We install the window lifter - very carefully so as not to scratch the glass. We insert the front bracket on the roller of the window regulator, and fasten the rear bracket with bolts - in the same way as the front glass. Adjustment is also similar to the front one. After that, we install the external seal.


Then an internal seal with a decorative strip. As practice has shown, I also put the clips of the internal seal in vain. It is much more convenient to first use these clips to connect the internal seal with the decorative bar, and then put them together with the clips on the edge of the door.


The rear glass is installed. Everything is similar on the left.






SOLIVER G with Belgium code E6




So, the doors are practically assembled, except for the inner linings - finally I can adjust them according to the locks and set the clearances on the body.

P.S.
Looking ahead, I will say that the electric drives of the window regulators worked very hard after connecting them, they even jammed when raising the glass. The problem was in the lubricant. Special teflon lubricant for window regulators in an aerosol can turned out to be real shit! It dried up in a few weeks, almost like water, and the cables were essentially dry. Lubricated all four window regulators with ordinary universal automotive grease - and they began to work normally.

[The_Glory]

Collection_61. ETK_41_Body. South door handle/locking mechanism/key (ch, 2)

The locks are ready, you can install them. We continue the same section
Ручка двери Пд/запорный механим/ключ





I already wrote about handles earlier, now about locks.
Part Private Messages - standard lock assembly with key, left (51 21 1 911 065) and right (51 21 1 911 065). But, as I wrote in the previous entry, if necessary, you can easily change the left lock to the right one and vice versa.
Part Albums - a lock for cars with a central lock assembly with a key, left (51 21 1 924 903).
Part #10 - standard lock, left (51 21 1 911 063) and right (51 21 1 911 064).
Part #11 - lock for cars with a central lock, left (51 21 1 924 901).
Item No. 12 - the main key with illumination, and the second main key without illumination. ETK has many numbers depending on the type of key or its blank. My illuminated key is already very worn out.


But the backlight works in it


I wanted to replace the workpiece in it, but judging by its design, it will not be possible to do this. So you will have to order a new one later.


So far, he has reworked all the locks for the second main key, which has remained in good condition.


There should be a total of 4 keys in the kit:
1 - main key with illumination No. 12.
2 - main key without backlight No. 12.
3 - compact main key No. 13. This is a blank without a plastic cover. After installing the illuminated container No. 26 on it, we get the first main illuminated key.
4 - service key, or key for valet parking. Only suitable for driver's door and ignition switch. The trunk and box for small things does not open.
It will be necessary to collect this whole set later.

Part No. 14 - key head with illumination (32 32 9 056 354), is no longer available for ordering.
Part No. 15 - backlight lamp 0.13W (51 21 1 935 001)
Part No. 16 - backlight button (32 32 1 151 013)
Item Photoshop & Media - leather key case (51 21 8 213 607). But this number comes with a case of a newer design.

Now the details of fastening the locks.
Part No. 17 - plastic decorative cover of the lock (51 21 1 865 246) - 2 pcs.
Part Regional Forums - passenger lock bracket for cars with a central lock (51 21 1 913 968).
Part No. 19 - locking bracket for cars with a central lock (51 21 1 913 969).
Part No. 20 - locking bracket of the lock (51 21 1 838 035). But visually and structurally E34/E28 Forums and General Discussion are identical.
Part Members Rides and Engine & Drivetrain - spacer washer (51 21 1 889 459 and 51 21 1 916 536). Most likely, it is used instead of Regional Forums and Off Topic Lounge on cars without a central lock.
Part No. 22 - rubber gasket (51 21 1 889 499) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 23 - driver's lock bracket for cars with a central lock (51 21 1 902 291)
Part No. 27 - a repair kit for the standard lock cylinder (51 21 9 556 313) and for the central lock (51 21 9 061 343). This is a complete set of lock parts in disassembled form. I already wrote about them in a previous post on repairing my locks.

I have standard central locking in my car, so the installation involves limit switches for the key. I mentioned them earlier in the section on the central castle.
I start with the passenger's right lock.


The lock and switch are placed on the bracket and fixed with staples. Two plastic clips are used to fix the wiring.




When the key is turned, the lever closes the contact


Now the driver's left lock.


In my case, instead of the standard E34/E28 Forums staple, a staple with lock heating is used. This is an additional option, I will write about it separately.


Switch mounting


The wiring is fixed with a special clip


When the key is turned, the lever closes the contact


In the previous photo, you can see the place for attaching another switch. I tried it on there - it becomes normal, but the lock does not reach it.


I wonder what it's made for...? Maybe there were some other locks with some options? If anyone knows, please share the information.

By the way, there is another important nuance related to additional options. Namely, with standard alarm system. It provides an additional third wire in the limit switch for the key. Accordingly, on the door wiring, its connector has three contacts, not two.


I don't have a 3-pin switch yet, so I made a temporary 3-to-2-pin adapter.




The alarm system will not "see" the turn of the key yet. By the way, I will buy a switch for 3 contacts (61 31 1 375 138).


And finally, we install the right lock. In theory, everything is very simple, but it is not very convenient to do it, so it took a lot of time. By the way, the switch had to be removed because it interfered with installing the fixing plate. So, we insert the lock into the door opening, put the bracket from the inside, and insert the locking clip into the special groove. The bracket is inserted in the direction from front to back. It goes in very tightly, we press the bracket with the lock to the door with it.


We install the switch, again, it is very inconvenient to do this.


We fix the wiring with plastic clips on the bracket and on the plastic body of the door lock mechanism.


We connect the connector to the door wiring and fix it in a special holder on the door.


And another clip on the door


Place of installation of the holder and clip


The right lock is installed.


I wrote about the left lock in the previous post - I will need to order a new one, since both of my left ones are broken and do not work. I haven't installed it yet. The installation principle is similar, but instead of a standard fixing bracket, a bracket with a heating element is used. I will write about this later.

[The_Glory]

Repair of locks with one key

It was time to install the door locks. After buying the car, I was given two keys - one for the ignition and one for the left door and trunk - and neither of them fit the right door and the glove box. :) Since a universal alarm system with remote control of the standard central lock was installed, I was, in principle, satisfied with everything. Now, without an alarm, there was a need to use locks, so I decided to redo all the locks with one key. Then I found another key in the door pocket, but forgot about it. Now I remembered, and it turned out that it has no signs of wear and fits the ignition switch and the trunk - apparently it is the "second" key from the factory set. My backlit master key is very worn. So I decided to make all the locks under that "second" key. Another important point that influenced such a choice - the ignition lock is not disassembled, and without "barbaric" methods of cutting or drilling, it will not be possible to disassemble it. Also, it is logical to take the ignition lock and its key as a basis, and rework the rest of the locks. But if the car has a tank cap with a lock, then it may be more logical to take the tank cap lock as a basis - because the cap is not collapsible at all. I have a central lock, accordingly - a cover without a lock.
So, I couldn't disassemble my right door lock - it was rotten to death, so I bought a donor lock and started with it. Although, you can buy an original repair kit (51 21 9 556 313) - in fact, this is the whole new lock in disassembled form. But the price is not small.
With the help of simple tools, we disassemble the lock.


We knock out the thin pin on the back end, and remove the lever with the spring and pull the core out of the case. It is better to do this with the key inserted. Then we take out the key. Next, we take out the plates and then take out the springs.


You need to be especially careful with the springs - they are very tiny and easily lost.


All details of a standard lock:


Now about the main principle of this operation. Without a key, the core of the lock looks like this - the plates stick out from the core and do not allow it to be turned with the key:


When the key is inserted into the lock, the plates are hidden inside the core and the key can turn it. But, if the key does not fit, then part of the plates still stick out and prevent the key from being turned.


So, our goal is to select the plates so that they all hide in the core.
I start with the driver's door lock. For the central lock, it differs from the usual lock - on the back end, it has an additional mechanism for controlling the central lock. But it is disassembled according to the same principle - we knock out the pin:




We remember the location of the springs and disassemble:


The photo below shows a broken lever, but the lock seemed to work anyway...

The plates in the locks are of the same type, but of different shapes and have corresponding numbers.


The core for the central lock has not four, but six pairs of plates. The last two pairs are responsible for controlling the central lock.


All parts are thoroughly washed, and we begin to pick up one plate at a time so that they do not protrude above the core when the key is inserted. Painstaking, monotonous work... In extreme cases, you can saw off the protruding plate, but already on the second lock I learned their shape and numbers, and easily picked everything up without any sawing. The main thing is to have a supply of donor plates. Final result with key inserted:


Keyless:


Lubricate everything and assemble the lock. And it does not work normally, because of a broken lever! :)
I bought another lock.


But a similar crack appeared in it...


I took it apart out of curiosity.


The lever is broken exactly the same as on my lock.




It turns out that this is a "sore" of such old locks for the central lock, and they are almost all broken in this place.
Just in case, he remade the lock under his own key - almost like a professional! :)
By the way, two pairs of plates for the central lock protrude from the case.


The lock works, but after locking the key does not come out. To do this, you need to manually unclip the lever. It will not be possible to do this by car.


Therefore, you will have to order a new lock or a repair kit (51 21 9 061 343).

Now the passenger door lock. I have two of them, so I redid both. By the way, if the car does not have a central lock, you can easily make a left lock from the right lock - just move the lever 180 degrees.






Done:




Likewise the second.


As a result, I have:
- remains of two donors
- two non-working left locks for the central lock with your own key.
- right and left standard locks with your own key.


The lock of the box for small things remains. This is the easiest lock to change to your own key.


We unscrew the handle with the lock


We remove the retaining ring from the core




We pull out the core


And according to the same principle, we disassemble, clean and recycle to our own specifications.


Already almost with closed eyes! )) Done.


Lubricate, put the core, fix the retaining ring.

There is no need to redo the ignition lock and trunk lock - therefore, now all locks are made with one key. Although, then the driver's license will be new.
Next, about their installation.

[The_Glory]

Collection_69. ETK_17_Cooling system. Engine lubrication system cooling.

After installing the sound signals, I remembered the oil radiator - it has been lying ready for installation for a long time, so I decided to install it as well. So let's start a new chapter:
Cooling system

First subdivision:
Engine oil cooling




For the 325i model, the oil cooler was installed in the basic configuration.
Part No. 1 - oil radiator (17 21 1 712 658), for pre-restyling models. Although the number is actually different:


Part Forum - supply pipeline (17 21 1 707 863)
Part No. 3 - return pipeline (17 21 1 707 864)
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X16-C-ZN (07 11 9 916 822) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - washer A6,4-200HV-ZNS3 (07 11 9 903 791) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - sheet nut ST6,3-1-ZN (07 12 9 925 742) - 2 pcs.
Parts No. 7...10 - are used on restyling models, to attach the corresponding radiator - it has special brackets for dampers. It is not used on pre-restyling models, as the radiator is rigidly attached to the body. Photo from the Internet:


Part No. 11 - bracket (17 21 1 709 491) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - washer A6,4-200HV-ZNS3 (07 11 9 903 791) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X50-C (07 11 9 916 842) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - oil pipe bracket (17 21 1 709 492) - 2 pcs.


Part No. 15 - ring of round section 13.4X1.78 (17 22 2 245 358) - 4 pcs.


Part No. 16 - oil pipe bracket (17 21 1 712 759) - 2 pcs. It is used as a substitute for Other Forums
Part No. 17 - sleeve (61 13 1 362 361) - 1 pc. Used together with General Forums

I washed the radiator very well, leveled all its ribs, cleaned and painted it. I did not unscrew the hoses from it, so new rubber rings will need to be installed only on the side of the motor.


We install three insert plates in special holes.


We fasten the radiator with two self-tapping screws, and on the right we press the #11 bracket through the E30 Classified Forums pipelines.


The radiator is installed.




The hoses are still hanging. After installing the motor, it remains to screw them to the oil filter.


P.S.
It seems to me that when installing the radiator of the air conditioner, you will have to remove the oil radiator, because it will interfere - let's see... It's good that it's simple and quick.
There will be other sections on cooling already after the motor is installed... probably it won't be soon...

[The_Glory]

Collection_68. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Beep.

I have already done a lot on electricity, but somehow there is no time to write about it all. So I will start little by little and return to the section:
General electrical equipment of the car

Next subsection:
Horn




In ETK, there is another inaccuracy - for some reason, only one sound signal is indicated for the 325i, but in fact there are two of them. One sound signal was installed only on the "younger" models 316 and 318 - in the center in front of the radiator. On the "older" model, two sound signals were installed - high and low tone. There were many types of them, different manufacturers, so I will not indicate the numbers.

Part Home - Hella low-pitched horn (335Hz), complete with three damper plates and their mounting.


Detail Blogs - bracket
Part Groups - bolt M6x12 - for attaching bracket Blogs to the damper plates.
Part No. 5 - bolt M8x16 - for fastening the sound signal.
Part No. 7 - an M8 nut - I don't understand what it is for - bolt No. 5 is screwed into the thread of the bracket. Maybe it's for some other bracket, or for restyling - I didn't find it useful.
Part Forum - Hella high-pitched sound signal (500Hz), assembled with a bracket and its fastening.


Part No. 6 - a bolt with an M8x16 washer - for fastening the sound signal.

Sound signals are ready for installation.


Previously, my sound signals were installed incorrectly at all - one to the left of the radiator, and the other behind the right headlight. So, now I will install them in their places.
A low-pitched horn (335Hz) is installed to the left behind the fog lamp. Looking ahead, I already have the sound signal of the standard alarm installed there. Maybe because my car was a 316, there is a hole in the body for attaching only one sound signal - in the middle in front of the radiator. And I did not find such holes on the sides. Therefore, I just screwed it into the free hole and connected the wiring. The wire was fixed with a clip together with the wire of the external temperature sensor.


From the side of the wheel, it will then be closed with a plastic shield.


A high-pitched horn (500Hz) is installed to the right behind the fog lamp. For the same reason, I did not find a threaded hole, the M8 bolt did not come in handy. Therefore, I screwed an M6 bolt with a nut, simply into a free hole and connected the wiring.




From the side of the wheel, it will then be closed with a plastic shield.


Now I can buzz! )

[The_Glory]

Collection_67. ETK_71_Spare parts+accessories (engine+chassis). Toolbox

Next subsection:
Tool box small


In ETK, for some reason, the small box is not available for the 325i model and for diesel cars, although in fact, in most cases, they were equipped with it from the factory. And a large box was an additional option. Probably another mistake... The presence of a spark plug key for a diesel engine is also surprising :) And in general, there is some confusion with the numbers - all the box numbers listed in ETK, I have never actually met, at the same time, all the numbers that I have available, not in ETK. Although this can be explained by the fact that in ETK the number of the box itself is not given, but the number of the kit, together with its fastening.
So, I have amassed quite a few of these boxes, including a rather rare large E30 box.


Inside, they have some differences.


Large - (71 11 1 120 002) - (in ETK 71 11 1 119 997) - used for E30, as an additional option. Also on E23 and E28.
The first - (71 11 1 128 911) - (in ETK 71 11 1 128 913) - was used for machines with motors M10, M20, M42, S14. Also on E23 and E28.
The second - (71 11 1 179 926) - (in ETK 71 11 1 179 925) - was used for cars with M40, M42, S14 engines.
The difference between them is only in the size of the niche for the candle key - in the first it is wider for a 21mm key, and in the second it is narrower for a 16mm key.
The third and fourth are the same - (71 11 1 152 080) - (in ETK 71 11 1 152 079) - earlier, used for cars with M10, M20, M42, S14 engines. Also on E23 and E28.
It differs from the first in the location of the candle key and pin - on the contrary, and the location of the key for emergency opening of the power windows - at the bottom right, instead of in the center. Also different manufacturers - ELBATAINER and SAFIPLAST, respectively.
Not 100% sure, but that's what I came up with based on the information in ETK.
So, I washed all the boxes and chose the best one. It turned out to be the second box, although it is for M40 (by the way, in addition to the number, it also has this marking - M40). I also noticed that on late boxes, the fastening tape is black.


Why not put the first one for M20? Because I still don't have a 21mm spark plug spanner, and a 16mm spanner won't fit in it. Later, I will find the necessary candle key, replace the 8x10 and 12x13 keys with better ones, - then I will also change the box.
And so far my kit looks like this:


Part Home - tool box (71 11 1 128 911)
Part Forum - threaded insert (71 11 1 179 445) - is inserted into the hole on the trunk lid.
Part #3, Groups - not used.
Part No. 5 - threaded plug (71 11 1 117 440) - screws into No. 2.
Part No. 6 - fastening tape (71 11 1 179 443) - is inserted into the slots in the box and in the trunk lid, serves as a limiter for opening the box.
Part No. 7 - damping gasket (71 11 1 152 109) - foam rubber glued to the trunk lid.
Part No. 8 - self-tapping screw ST4.2X19 (07 11 9 904 431) - 2 pcs. for fastening the box.
Part No. 9 - double-sided 17-19 angled wrench (71 11 9 690 008). Not available to order.
Part No. 9 - double-sided angle wrench 8-10 (71 11 1 112 893)
Part No. 9 - double-sided angle wrench 12-13 (71 11 1 126 148)
Part No. 10 - screwdriver (71 11 1 179 629)
Part No. 11 - a pin (71 11 1 093 774) - is used as a knob for a spark plug key and as a guide when replacing a spare wheel (many people do not know about this - it is very convenient). Photo from the Internet:

Part No. 12 - spark plug wrench 21 mm (71 11 1 179 745)
Part No. 12 - spark plug wrench 16 mm (71 11 1 179 700)
Part No. 13 - pliers (71 11 1 179 522)
Part 14 - bag with tools (71 11 1 128 360) - was used only on special cars. Not available to order.

The key for emergency opening of electric windows (54 12 7 199 322) is not shown in this ETK section. But I have already mentioned it before - a Z-shaped hexahedron. It is used only in the presence of electric windows and/or electric sunroof.

Therefore, the whole tool can still be bought new, except for the key 17-19.

The box is screwed to the trunk lid with two self-tapping screws. For this, I had to remove the covering of the cover - it was necessary to screw it on immediately. Although, I saw in most of the photos on the Internet - the box is screwed on top of the sheathing, thereby additionally pressing it. But the look is not very aesthetic. So I "hid" the drawer mounts under the trim - it looks much better that way.
Insert the tape and glue the foam. By the way, I bought new foam, and I thought it would come with an adhesive base. But no - just foam. I had to stick it on construction glue for porous materials. We arrange the keys in places.


About the empty spaces in the box - they are used on older E23 and E28 bodies for the emergency opening tool for power windows:
- pin (71 11 1 150 191) - is placed inside the spark plug
- plastic attachment for the pin (71 11 1 150 500) - is placed on the lower left. Not available to order.
Photo from the Internet:


These parts are not used for E30. But it will be possible to buy them - just so that the seats are not empty ;)

We close the box - beauty! :)


Next subsection:
Tool box large


An additional option is a large tool box with an extended set of keys. It is attached similarly, but with 4 self-tapping screws. Additional holes in the cover are provided, but it is not compatible with the lining of the trunk lid. In addition, on my drawer, its fastening is broken. So I'll keep it just for the options collection. But of the entire set of tools for a small box, only a screwdriver fits in a large box. All other keys must be bought specifically for a large box - they are also large. This is clearly visible in the photo - simply transferring them from a small box to a large one will not work:


For now, I only have a foam insert for spare lamps (71 11 1 127 113) for it.
But the whole set is available to order, moreover, it can be bought by one number - (71 11 1 115 329). The only difference between the new sets and the old ones is the green color of the handles on the screwdrivers. Photo from the Internet:


In early sets - red. Photo from the Internet:


Maybe one day I will buy it for my collection.

Next subsection:
Bulbs/fuses


I have already written about lamps and fuses in the relevant sections, so I will not repeat them here. Therefore, in this subsection we consider only one rare detail. Although, I also wrote about her once.
Detail Home - polishing cloth (71 11 1 115 810). Not available to order. Plain blue napkin. but with the BMW logo. The logo comes in two color variants. Very rare and very expensive in my opinion. That's why I bought a "replica" a long time ago :) It looks no worse than the original.


I put it in a box.


That's all with the on-board tool.

Towbar units remain. I definitely won't install a towbar, as this will require cutting a huge hole in the rear apron of the BBS. I'm not ready to make such sacrifices for the sake of a towbar :) So, I will deal with it after assembling the car - just for the sake of a collection of options. By the way, I have two of them - a regular one and one with a removable hook. Then I will write about them, but for now, just a "teaser" ;)



The last, or rather the first, subdivision is stickers.
But this will be the "last chord" upon completion of the car assembly!

P.S.
Yesterday I took all the side glass from polishing - now I will finish the assembly of the doors.

[The_Glory]

We start a new section of ETK:
Spare parts+accessories (engine+chassis)

I want to finally finish the assembly of the trunk, so I'm starting with the subdivision
On-board tool/ jack




Part Home - Storz jack (71 12 1 178 721).
Some cars were equipped with a Bilstein jack (71 12 1 178 722). Photo from the Internet.


For cars with M-Technic II thresholds, there was a special Storz jack (71 12 1 180 172), with a wider "paw". Photo from the Internet.


Jack mounting details:


Part No. 3 - tension lever (71 12 1 126 858)
Part No. 4 - screw with a head (71 12 1 127 514)
Part Uncategorized Groups - M6x4 bolt (07 11 9 907 529) or M6x10 bolt (07 11 9 907 519) for M-Technic jack
Part No. 10 - shield (51 71 1 916 269)

We fasten bar No. 3 with screw No. 5, and screw screw No. 4 into a special bracket on the left wheel arch.


Adjust so that bar No. 3 hits screw No. 4 with its groove. Tighten screw Uncategorized Groups We put decorative cover No. 10




We put the jack and press it with a bar with a screw.


By the way, so that the paint on the jack does not peel off, I glued an "anti-squeak" strip to the bar. There is no upper protective cover on my jack - it is lost somewhere - it will be necessary to find and install it.

Part Forum - a key for wheel bolts (71 12 1 179 953)
Part No. 6 - clamp for fastening the key (51 47 1 933 468) - 1 pc. It is placed on the left trunk lining. I haven't installed the skin yet, because first I need to install the electric antenna and the audio amplifier. There were some problems with the antenna - in the process of repair, and the amplifier really needs a mounting bracket, I can't find it anywhere...
However, other clamps (71 12 1 126 859) - 2 pcs. They were placed on the wall of the left niche of the trunk in special insert plates.
I bought both types - it will be possible to put two keys! :)


We put the clamps in special insert plates and snap the key into them.


The jack does not interfere


After installing the skin, I will also install another clamp, since the skin is already from a later car, and has a special hole for this.

Part No. 9 - anti-rollback stop (71 11 1 179 052) - 1 pc. I bought it new, but I could not find any reliable information on exactly where it should be located... I just put it in the niche next to the key and jack - it seems logical... If anyone knows for sure, the correct place its location please share the information.


Part No. 7 - spare wheel bracket (71 15 1 180 625) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - wing nut M8 (71 15 1 179 257) - 1 pc.

In the photo above, you can see two round "plates" for attaching a spare wheel - with a slot and one without a slot. Earlier machines used a "plate" without a slot (apparently with this number - 71 15 1 179 095). Later - with a slot.
I put an earlier one - without a slot, although to get the wheel, you need to completely unscrew the wing nut and remove the "plate". If there is a slot, it is enough to simply loosen the wing nut by a few turns and pull the "plate" to the side - it is more convenient. But for the entire time, I used the spare tire only a few times, so it is not critical.


Spare wheel, not ready yet, so I haven't put it on yet.

By the way, I once mentioned a useful option - the original plastic "bucket", which is installed inside the inverted wheel disc, and serves as an additional niche for various accessories. But it doesn't fit in the basic steel disc... I'll see, I may have to carry a 9x16 wheel as a spare :)

Part No. 11 - towing eye (72 15 1 965 186), used only on restyled cars. It is attached to the left trunk lining.
Parts No. 12, No. 13, No. 15, No. 16 are not used.
Part E30 Classified Forums - key for removing decorative wheel covers (36 13 2 294 421), used only for optional "style 10" wheels.

[The_Glory]

Well, happy birthday! Very interesting base model radio, always neat to see such things as we never got truly low spec cars in the US.

Thank you.
Yes, in the USA there were usually very good configurations.

[roguetoaster]

Well, happy birthday! Very interesting base model radio, always neat to see such things as we never got truly low spec cars in the US.