E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

So, while there is free time, I will write about all blocks and relays, according to ETK. I will install them together with their corresponding wiring.

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Fuse block.

The next subdivision
Fuse block


Part Home - fuse side (61 13 1 370 761) with contact retainer bars - is the same for all E30s.
Detail No. 2 - there are two types of fuse block housing:
until September 1986 (61 13 1 368 813) - is attached to the front part of the body support
after September 1986 (61 13 1 380 973) - is attached to the rear part of the engine shield
Accordingly, they are not interchangeable. But my body had the entire left strut replaced and the fuse box mount redone since I have all the main wiring with the post 1986 fuse box.



The photo shows two contact retainer plates. They are placed from below on the sides of the rows of fuses. To remove them, you need to press 4 latches on each - their grooves can be seen in the photo below. For clarity, I put them in place of their installation:


Attachment of the rear part to the motor shield:


By the way, the self-tapping screw for attaching the block to the body is not specified in the ETK.
Part Blogs - cover (61 13 1 368 802). Most of them have broken latches, just like mine. It is good that it provides additional fastening with two self-tapping screws. The inscriptions were already half erased, so I erased them completely and polished the lid. Then I might order a new one with screws while it's still available. By the way, the cover should have a rubber seal around its perimeter, which is not shown in the ETK.
Part Groups - fuses rated 7.5A, 15A, 30A. There are also 20A and 25A. It is better to look at their number per denomination in ETM for a specific year of issue, as there are some non-significant differences.
Part No. 5 - two self-tapping screws (07 11 9 907 802) that fasten the block to the body. I think that they will also be suitable for additional fastening of the cover, since they are also not specified in the ETK.
Part No. 6 - a clamp for removing fuses.
Part Visitor Messages is a metal jumper (61 13 1 373 977) instead of the K9 relay. According to ETK, for some reason it does not go to all E30s, although this may be another mistake. I will write about this relay and jumper in the appropriate section.
Parts No. 8-10 - additional fuse block with a bracket. It has 2 fuses for connecting non-regular consumers. Maybe someday I'll find one for myself, just in case. And for now, the photo is from the Internet.


I will complete and fix the block after laying the wiring of the air conditioner, as it will be necessary to lead several wires to the block and add two fuses.

[The_Glory]

Let's go back to electricity.
General electrical equipment of the car

Assembly_50. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 2)

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/vehicle_electrical_system/cable_harness/']Jute wires (part 2)[ /URL]


I have long since started to put the main wiring harness in order and already wrote about it - the front and rear parts of the wiring were ready, the middle part, near the fuse block, remained. But in this condition, the wiring hung on the wall in the garage for almost two and a half years... And now, I have finished it!


Now we will talk only about detail No. 1 - the main wiring harness.


Detail No. 2 - instrument panel wiring harness. It is laid along the panel, so we will talk about it after its installation.

So, I not only brought the main harness to the proper condition, but also "pro-upgraded" it a little ;)
The front of the main harness has been done for a long time, now I just added new white connectors for the headlights, and one wire for the temperature sensor to activate the OVERHEAT check light. In the original, it was available only for the Japanese market, and indicated overheating of the catalyst. I don't have a sensor and wiring for this, and the catalyst itself has been gone for a long time. So, for me, this light will indicate that the second speed of the air conditioner fan is on.


There was the most work in the middle part.


I added the standard immobilizer connectors to the ignition switch connector:


Instead of twists, he added a separate connector for powering the phone:


I added the wiring of the light on signal to the common harness and connected it to the factory twists.


Added the wiring for the driver's seat belt warning light. This option was available only for the USA market, so it remained to find a relay and a belt lock with a sensor for it.


I added the reverse control lamp, the CHECK ENGINE lamp to the common harness. I also added a wire for the O2 sensor check lamp, which indicates a malfunction of the lambda probe. I have a lambda probe, but this lamp will not work without an "American" speedometer - maybe someday I will buy a USA dashboard. If I understand correctly, there is simply a special fuse on the speedometer board that blows every 30,000 miles.


I added the CHECK ENGINE wiring to the C101 engine connector. You still need to replace the Motronic 172 unit with a 173 unit to make it work.


Completely replaced the left driver's door connector, and added extra contacts for the door stop for options.


Added to the general harness and connected the wiring of the additional third brake light to the factory twists.


Connector for additional equipment C302 in the "full edition" version :)

Somewhere on the Internet, I found information that on the earliest E30, and maybe even on the E28 or E23, the airbag was not connected to a separate orange connector, but to the C302 connector on the I-O pins. But there is no confirmation of this in ETM for E30. But, just in case, I also added wiring for the Air Bag - maybe someday I will decide to install this option as well :)
I also added foams, which are not usually used - I will write about this later, when I get to the relevant options.


So, the wiring is ready for installation. I already wrote about fastening the wiring earlier, now I will start with its installation.
There are 6 clamps on the front apron.


2 clamps on the left and right behind the headlights.



There are 2 more clamps on the left wing.


Total under the hood:
12 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.

Let's go to the salon.
On the left, 1 clamp in the opening of the body near the speaker, and 3 clamps on the pins of the body. The black wiring bracket is attached to the motor shield with two plastic nuts.


White bracket for connector C302.


To the left on the floor are 3 stud clamps and 1 staple. Another clamp on the checkpoint tunnel.


Similarly, on the right on the floor - 3 clamps on hairpins and 1 bracket.


There are 7 white staples on the left threshold.


On the left under the rear seat, 2 clamps on a pin and 4 clamps in a hole.


On the right under the rear seat, 1 clamp on a pin.


Under the rear seat, there are 3 clamps in the holes.


There are 7 white staples on the right threshold.


On the right, 1 clamp in the body opening near the speaker, and 1 clamp on the body pin.


Total in the cabin:
9 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.
13 clamps attached to the body pin.
3 black staples.
14 white staples.

Then into the trunk.
On the left above the wheel arch, 2 clamps in the holes.


On the rear left wing and on the rear panel are metal brackets.


In total, I got the following amount:
23 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.
13 clamps attached to the body pin.
3 black staples.
14 white staples.

Now you can start laying the wiring. I can't imagine how quickly it was done on the factory assembly line - it took me quite a while. After all, you need to carefully thread ALL the wiring from under the hood, through the hole in the engine shield all the way to the rear lights. Why they didn't make one or two large connectors between the fuse block and the interior wiring - I don't understand... But we have what we have. I had to get dizzy, but I did it anyway.
The wiring is laid under the hood. Front ABS sensors are connected.


In the cabin, the wiring runs from the left along the threshold, and along the floor to the handbrake lever. Next, under the rear seat, on the left and right, the wiring that goes under the bottom is connected. Rear ABS sensors are connected. The wiring goes along the right threshold to the end caps of the right door.


In the trunk on the left wing and rear panel. But you don't need to install the trunk lock before laying the wiring - it gets in the way, and I had to remove it. The wire for the trunk lighting will still need to be pulled along the edge of the trunk lid.


The wiring is simply laid, I will fix it with clamps, of course, when I have already laid the wiring of all additional options.

[The_Glory]

Your thread is a good example how to do things! And hopefully i will get there someday and i can use your 13 pages of material to assemble my car. Im quite sure when i start the assembly i won't remember how everything was. Of course i have more than 1500 pictures and countless hours of video, but still i bet i didn't record everything.
Keep going!

Thank you.
I'm glad you find it useful.

[MarkoEST]

Your thread is a good example how to do things! And hopefully i will get there someday and i can use your 13 pages of material to assemble my car. Im quite sure when i start the assembly i won't remember how everything was. Of course i have more than 1500 pictures and countless hours of video, but still i bet i didn't record everything.
Keep going!

[The_Glory]

The old imprints on the pad at the bottom of the spare well are neat, not sure I've seen two leftover imprints before. Goodyear is a clear one from the probable original spare, and I assume the other one probably says Uniroyal, very neat.

I saw Goodyear imprints, but I didn't look closely, Uniroyal was also imprinted there - I'll have to look more closely)

[The_Glory]

Collection_49. ETK_72_Spare parts + accessories (body). Cover for transporting skis

So, to close the hole in the trunk partition, you need to install the option "S464 Cover for carrying skis". To do this, go to the ETK section:
Spare parts+accessories (body)

Unit:
Ski bag


Part No. 2 - a cover for transporting skis (72 60 1 949 536). All other details in the E30 are not used.



Apparently, someone once carried skis in it, and very long ones at that! :) I had to glue it at the end.


Next subsection:
Ski bag details




Part No. 1 - bracket for fixing the cover (72 60 8 111 914). I didn't have it, so I ordered a new one under this number. But a bracket arrived with a different number - (72 60 1 949 536):


The same number in ETK has the same cover shown in the previous subsection. And in fact, the number 52 20 1 934 880 is indicated on the cover.


Part Blogs - Locking mechanism (72 60 8 111 916) - is shown in ETK as a separate part, but in fact this button with a lever is an integral part of the cover body.


Again, some complete confusion in ETK... The bracket had to be filed a little... Well, that's it... the main thing is that everything fell into place. Although I put the bracket on the wrong side in this photo...


Part Forum - spring.
Detail No. 4 - a cover with a magnet for fixing it to the body in the open position.
The cover had to be repaired a little - a piece of plastic was broken off. Recovered it:



I painted the lid with texture paint for plastic, it turned out quite well.
Installed the spring and assembled the cover with the cover - ready to install.


Parts Uncategorized Groups and Special are not used.

The cover is installed very simply - it is inserted through the lower grooves and tightly clicks into the hole in the trunk partition from above.


In my case, the functionality of the cover is limited by the back strut - it prevents it from being fully opened. But I definitely won't drive the E30 in winter, and accordingly I won't transport skis either! And even more so, I will not carry long fittings or boards :)
By the way, I have already mentioned the additional tank several times - now it is clearly visible that these two options are not compatible. So far I've chosen a ski cover from them...although I might install a tank instead...we'll see...
View from the salon:


Here the bracket is already installed correctly:


Some of my old photos after installing the cover:




The trunk is almost completely assembled.

[roguetoaster]

The old imprints on the pad at the bottom of the spare well are neat, not sure I've seen two leftover imprints before. Goodyear is a clear one from the probable original spare, and I assume the other one probably says Uniroyal, very neat.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_48. ETK_51_Body equipment. Lining of the luggage compartment

We continue the section:
Body trim

I already wrote about the lining of the trunk, but in ETK the lower carpet is a separate unit:
Trunk trim panel





Detail No. 1 is the trunk carpet, which is also a cover for the spare wheel niche. Available only in one color ANTHRAZIT. There was an option for a spare wheel with wide tires, and for an additional tank. In the first case, the differences are not significant, and in the second, it is much shorter. If I ever decide to install my extra tank, I'll probably have to cut my carpet...
I couldn't find the number on my carpet, so I think it's a carpet for a regular spare wheel, with additional reinforcing plates above the wheel.


After dry cleaning, the carpet looks pretty good considering I once spilled a can of motor oil on it :)


Detail Forum - support for the carpet. Standard (51 47 1 904 726), or for wide tires 205/55 (51 47 1 925 406). I had a black standard one - proof that the carpet is for a regular spare wheel.


But it was already broken and glued, so I bought a white, reinforced support (51 47 1 904 728).


For comparison:




The support is placed on the spare wheel mounting pin.


Details #3-6 - rubber ballast pads with a total weight of 15 kg. Used on 323i and 325i models for better weight distribution between the axles. They are placed at the bottom of the spare wheel niche, and under the carpet. I don't have them yet - in the process of searching. Therefore, a photo from the Internet:


Carpet in the trunk.


Only the optional trunk lid lining remained from the trunk linings. But there were unexpected difficulties with its fastening, so I will write about it later, when I overcome them.

There is a large hole in the front lining of the trunk, which needs to be covered with something - more on that later.

[The_Glory]

Ah, unfortunate, but I hope your recovery goes well and I look forward to the next update whenever you can get to it.

Ah, unfortunate, but I hope your recovery goes well and I look forward to the next update whenever you can get to it.

OK, thanks, I'll try)

[The_Glory]

Collection_47. ETK_51_Body equipment. Door glass movement mechanism

We continue the section:
Body trim

In the previous post, I said that the glass and door windows are different for pre-April 1988 and post-April 1988 cars. This is due to differences in the design of window regulators and doors. These two types of glass and window lifters are not interchangeable and can only be used in accordance with each other. Until April 1988, the window regulators were cable-operated. Cable guides simultaneously served as glass guides. After April 1988, the design of the window lifts was significantly changed - they received a lever-type drive ("scissors") with additional glass guides.
Both types can have either manual or electric drive. At the same time, the glass of the corresponding type is the same, regardless of the type of drive.
There is also a nuance regarding the compatibility of window regulators with doors. Since the internal structure of the doors was changed after the restyling in 1987, and the structure of the windows was changed only in 1988, the "cable" type window regulators fit any door, and the "scissor" type window regulators only fit the doors after the restyling. To put them on the door before 87, you need to drill additional holes. The doors after 1987 have holes for attaching both types of window regulators.

So, now all my doors are restyled, but the window regulators, according to the year of production, remain of the "cable" type. Previously, the front ones were electric, and the rear ones were manual. But I did manage to find the rear electric ones, and now all four windows have an electric drive.

Unit:
Front door glass moving mechanism



Since I have never had front windows with a manual drive, then we will consider only electric windows - part #10 on the diagram.


Detail No. 11 - guide cable of the window lifter.
The guide (No. 11) with an electric drive (No. 12) is attached to the door with four bolts (No. 2) and three nuts (No. 13). By the way, the ETK does not show two more similar bolts (#2) that fasten the glass to the window regulator. But I will write about the installation of glass later.
Part E30 Classified Forums - 6-sided Z-shaped key for manual emergency closing of windows (54 12 7 199 322). It is used only for "cable" electric windows. In the event of engine failure, it is inserted into the engine axle through a special plug in the door trim and turns it like a manual window lifter. It is also used for electric sunroof.
Cover No. 15 and four screws No. 16 press the electric drive to the cable guide.


The cover of the electric drive mechanism and the rubber plug of the axle are assembled with the motor according to the ETC.


Part No. 17 is a plastic bracket that additionally fixes the cable guide. Apparently, for some reason, few people have kept it. I didn't have it either. Although their price is not pleasing, I ordered new ones - 51 33 1 919 541.


It is placed at the bottom in a special hole, and is fixed on the guiding cable.


While inserting the window lifter into the door by trial and error, I scratched the paint a little, then I had to repaint it. To prevent this from happening, you need to immediately turn the window regulator 90 degrees and put it in the door, then turn it back. It is better to do this before installing glass seals. I inserted the other three window regulators faster and without scratches. Align the holes and fasten. By the way, the photo shows empty holes for installing restyled "scissors" type window lifts.


P.S.
I did find my black factory clips for the pull of the door handle - I put them instead of the new white ones so that they were the same on all doors.

Unit:
Rear door glass movement mechanism



Here again the inaccuracy of ETK - the name of the section and the diagram are simply copied from the previous section of the front windows. But these are the rear ones.
Rear "cable" power windows are not very common, but I was lucky enough to find them in fairly good working order. Although I had to wash and clean them well, and then lubricate them. By the way, I did the same with the front ones for prevention.
So, we wash and clean the guides and cables



Then remove the cover, clean the cable mechanism and lubricate it.


On the other hand, we also remove the cover, clean the drive mechanism and lubricate it.


The protective casings on top of the guides became brittle from old age, so I cut new ones from the same material in their shape. They are attached with ordinary staples for a stapler.



I lubricated the cables and their guides with a special Teflon lubricant for window regulators.


Now they are ready to install.


The design and fastening of the rear power windows is similar to the front ones. Therefore, I see no point in repeating the description. The only difference is that the plastic bracket (#17) is not placed on the rear, although it is present on the ETK scheme. Obviously, this is just a copied scheme of the front ones. I tried to install it, but it does not lock into the hole at all and does not line up with the guide.


The installation process is also similar to the previous ones. Installed. In the photo, for example, a key for emergency closing is inserted into the drive.


The following photos are just for comparison and information.
On the left is a manual rear window lifter, on the right is an electric rear window lifter


The same, on the other hand


On the left is the front, on the right is the rear electric window lifter


The same, on the other hand


Now I can install the glass and seals.

[e30m3s54turbo]

Please take care. When have time to up date will great see your awesome project!!!

[roguetoaster]

It's nice that you haven't forgotten about me)
There is some progress, I just haven't had time to write about it.
Personal affairs are not very good, I was hospitalized, but on the positive side - now I will have more time to write something) But assembling the car will probably take even longer...

Ah, unfortunate, but I hope your recovery goes well and I look forward to the next update whenever you can get to it.

[The_Glory]

Getting anywhere on the build? Hope you are personally doing okay.

It's nice that you haven't forgotten about me)
There is some progress, I just haven't had time to write about it.
Personal affairs are not very good, I was hospitalized, but on the positive side - now I will have more time to write something) But assembling the car will probably take even longer...

[roguetoaster]

Getting anywhere on the build? Hope you are personally doing okay.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_46. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing

We continue the section:
Body equipment

Its first subdivision:
Glazing


Three types of glass were available for the E30:
- ordinary transparent
- heat-insulating green Gruen (marking G)
- heat-insulating brown Gold Bronze (marking B)

In addition, the windshield (#1) could still have a green sun protection strip in the upper part. The rear window (No. 5) is always heated. But I will write about the windshield and rear glass later, since they will be installed almost last, after assembling the interior and lining the roof.
So, now we will talk only about door glass (#2, 3, 4). It differs (except for "deaf" No. 4) for cars manufactured before April 1988 and after April 1988. This is due to differences in the design of window regulators and doors. These two types of glass and window lifters are not interchangeable and can only be used in accordance with each other.
Of course, I have a sample glass before April 1988. With option S350A - heat-insulating green Gruen. It was tinted with a dark film by the previous owner. In addition, brown glass was installed in the rear right door instead of green. The tinting hid the color difference a bit, but of course I bought green glass instead of brown. I will say right away that the rear glass was also brown, but it will also be replaced with a green one, the front one will be new, also green, but more on that later.
All my door kit


A set of greens


Of course, I removed the toning film, as it was damaged in places, and almost completely burned out in the sun. Here you can see the difference.


And in general, I decided to leave the glass in the factory green color, according to the configuration according to the VIN.
The brown glass of the rear right door is not found often, someone may need it.


Although, for some reason, there is no "B" marking on it, but it is definitely brown.


By the way, together with the doors, I got one glass of a sample after April 1988. Also green, but with a different mount.


Interesting stickers remained on it, and some number engraving, something like a security system.


The next photo clearly shows the difference between the glass before 88 and after 88 - the different location of the mounting brackets and the different shape of the lower face of the glass.


On the left - until 1988 - the lower edge with "stepped" protrusions. On the right - after 88 years - the lower edge is straight. Similarly, the rear door glass.

So, the toning film was removed. It was very easy to remove the glue from some glass, and it was very difficult to wash off the glue from others. However, the glass was completely washed and polished a little for a better shine.
Front


Rear



If you look closely, you can see that the two glasses have a different manufacturer's marking - SEKURIT.


In addition to color, there were several different options of glass manufacturers. Fortunately, the shade of color is the same among different manufacturers, so they can be combined with each other. All the glass has the same color marking G. Although, it would be good to find two more glasses so that they are all from the same SOLIVER manufacturer. If I find them, I will replace them. The marking can also identify the country for which the glass was made. In my case, it is E1 - Germany, and E6 - Belgium. Apparently, my car came to Ukraine from Belgium... although, not a fact)

To install the glass, of course, you must first install the window lifters, guides and window seals. More on that later.