E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_54. ETK_63_Block of rear lights

Rear light unit




Part Home - left (63 21 1 370 677) and right (63 21 1 370 678) rear light. By the way - in ETK it is literally said - "Rear light unit with fog light is right". But (63 21 1 370 682) - the usual right, without fog lights. This is proof for those who believe that the rear fog light was only on the left. I also added it to the right lantern - I like it better that way.
Detail Forum - tail light cover. There is a regular one, or with additional illumination of the trunk from the marker lights.
I have it with additional lighting.



Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (63 21 1 370 679) - 2 pcs.



By the way, just in case, I cut a couple more spacers from the same material along the contour of the original spacers. They turned out almost no worse :)
Part Groups - left (63 21 1 374 913) and right (63 21 1 374 914) lamp mounting bracket.


Part No. 5 - M5 nut (63 25 9 128 043) - 12 pcs.
Item No. 6 - lamp 12V 21W - 8 pcs. , lamp 12V 10W - 2 pcs. BOSCH lamps.


Part No. 7 - lamp cover fastening handle (63 21 1 376 879) - 4 pcs.

I already wrote about the restoration and polishing of the lights earlier, so everything is ready for installation.


But there is an alternative option - Startec! ;)


Tried Startec


But they are not yet in the state in which I want to see them, and they need attention.


Therefore, it will be the standard for now.

[The_Glory]

The wiring is partially completed, so you can move on to lighting.
Lighting devices

Assembly_53. ETK_63_Turn signal lamp Pd/Pd Bik

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/1985/browse/lighting/front_front_lateral_turn_indicator/']Turn indicator light South/South Side[/URL ]



I will say right away that I never liked the original side turn signal lights on the E30. Their design is not bad, but on the car, in combination with moldings, they look like something extra. Some of them are too massive or something... So, I will not install them, so their not quite perfect condition does not bother me - I bought them just to be :)

Part Visitor Messages - left (63 13 1 367 801) and right (63 13 1 367 802) turn signal lights. Complete with metal clips.
Part No. 8 - rubber seal for the turn signal lamp, left (63 13 1 367 803) and right (63 13 1 367 804).
Part No. 9 - lamp 12V5W (63 21 7 160 797) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - clip (51 71 1 874 203 or 63 13 1 378 066) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X16 (07 11 9 906 734) - 2 pcs.

Everything is assembled. The wiring is the same on both sides.


The side turn signal lights are quite a useful thing in city traffic, so I will have them, but I will write about that later.

Front turn signals.


Part Home - front turn signals assembly,
Part Forum - rubber seal (63 13 1 370 397) - 2 pcs.
Detail Blogs - glass. The original comes from different manufacturers (SIDLER, ULO, ZIZALA (ZKW)). ZKW comes in different colors - orange, transparent and smoky, but for some reason they all have the same number 63 13 1 377 996. Therefore, when ordering by this number, it's like a lottery, but the usual orange usually comes :) I collected all the original options.


There were several more beautiful "aftermarket" options of those times, and many modern Chinese ones, but that's it... )
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw (63 13 1 369 303) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - lamp 12V21W (63 21 7 160 790) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - screw (63 13 1 370 849) - 4 pcs.
Item No. 12 is not used.

So, I install the side indicators - in non-standard holes in the wing.

Next, we insert the wiring into the hole in the body (I knocked out the metal plugs before painting the car)


And we take it to the cabin, where it will be connected to the wiring of the instrument panel.


The same on the right.




The connectors of the front turn signals are removed from the main wiring harness.



Of course, I will install the front turn signals together with the front bumper.

[The_Glory]

Let's return to wiring.
General electrical equipment of the car

Collection_52. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 3)

Jute wires (part 3)


Last time I laid the main jute wiring. Now we will talk about all the harnesses of additional options, which are laid parallel to the main harness - along the left threshold to the trunk, and in front of the front seats, through the gearbox tunnel to the right side. So, first I put a large harness of the "electrical package" (mirrors, sunroof, power windows, power window comfort relay, central locking, interior light timer and heating of the driver's door lock. Next, other options - audio wiring, electric antenna, telephone and hands-free system, heating of the front seats, heated rear seats (custom), standard alarm, lights in the interior mirror, interior lights, illumination of the hydrocorrector of the headlights. Maybe I forgot something else)
In the process, we have such a picture :)



Complete chaos under the wheel)


We connect the outer and inner parts of the door connectors. In the left door connector, you need to immediately install the cable of the standard alarm magnetic lock.



So, all the harnesses are laid, now you need to fix them properly. I'll start with the simplest, where there is less wiring - from the trunk.
On the right side, the wire of the central lock goes up through the wheel well to the hatch of the fuel tank, and the wire of the fuel level sensor in the additional tank. It is attached to the body with a metal clip. Since I did not install an additional tank (at least not yet), I simply hid the sensor behind the trunk loop.


The wire of the central lock passes over the wheel arch, is attached with a metal clip to the rib and to the bracket of the drive of the central lock of the fuel tank hatch.


On the right side of the trunk, that's all.
On the left side, there is more wiring - audio amplifier, electric antenna, alarm system, telephone. Fastened with two clamps.


As I said earlier, all electronic units will be installed together with their wiring. I installed the GSM phone unit not on the left rear wing, as expected by the factory, but under the rear shelf. I already mentioned earlier about the regular bracket, and its not very successful fastening with the drilling of the wing. That's why I like my version better - it's convenient and inconspicuous.



I did not install the audio amplifier, because I have not yet found the bracket for its attachment, the antenna still needs to be repaired a little. So, for now, just plugs.


The audio wiring turned out to be from the Touring, so the ground terminal does not reach the G300 point under the rear seat. I fixed it in the matching hole on the stiffening rib of the body.


Lamp control unit in the rear lights.


The wiring of the trunk lighting and standard alarm is laid through the hole in the body bracket, and is wound into the trunk loop.


At the exit from the loop, it is fastened with a tie, and is wound into the opening of the trunk lid.


It is laid along the diagonal stiffening rib to the lamp shade and to the alarm stop button.


The alarm and central locking wiring is routed along the wing and rear panel to the alarm diode (I mentioned it earlier when installing the license plate panel) and to the trunk central locking actuator. It is attached together with the main harness with metal staples.



All wiring in the trunk is laid and fixed.

Let's go to the back of the cabin. On the back shelf, we bring out the wiring of the rear speakers. But, since the audio wiring is from the touring, the connectors for the speakers do not fit, and an extension cord will be needed for the left rear speaker. Then I will make adapters/extensions.
Down under the seat is point G300 for the "ground" of all these wiring harnesses. By the way, all the harnesses did not fit into the standard rubber insert. I laid the wiring of the telephone, alarm and speakers through the shelf.


We also lead the wire of the third brake light and the rear window heating contacts here.


By the way, the standard alarm system is connected to the contact break of the rear window heating.


I don't know why, but that's how it is. Maybe this is how it will react to the breaking of threads when it is broken... But I did not check :)

Under the rear seat, the wiring is laid parallel to the main harness and fastened with clamps together with it. I routed the wiring to the rear seat heating buttons and to the phone in the center of the gearbox tunnel.


On the right - the ABS connector, the wiring connector that goes under the bottom to the gearbox, and seat heating.


On the left - the ABS connector, the wiring that goes under the bottom to the fuel pump, and the heated seat.


Then all these bundles go forward along the left threshold. The front part of the wiring will be more difficult to fix, so I haven't done it completely yet. I'll write later when I'm done.

[The_Glory]

I never investigated, but that makes sense why I've never found an E30 I had with a working lock heater. Maybe conversion to a spring switch would work.

Good idea - I will have to think about how to fix the spring contact on the case

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Relay.

The next subdivision
Relay




There are relays of different manufacturers, different colors, with different numbers, with latches on the case and without them - that's why I don't specify the numbers, they are all in ETK. The main thing is that the relay has the necessary scheme of its operation. By the way, the operation diagrams are also shown in the picture in ETK, and on some relays they are shown directly on its body.
We are considering relays only for E30 M20B25.

Part Home is a relay with a closing contact. It has 4 contacts. It is placed in the fuse block (relay K1, K2, K3, K5, K6, K7). Also used as a fuel pump relay and an O2 sensor heating relay. It comes in orange, yellow, brown, blue, light green color.







Part Forum - a relay with a double closing contact. It has 5 contacts. It is placed in the fuse block (relay K4, K8). Usually black.


Part No. 3 - electric sunroof relay. It has 5 contacts with multi-colored markings. In a metal case.


Part No. 4 - a relay with an opening contact. It has 4 contacts. Blue color. NOT interchangeable with relay Home Interchangeable with relay Uncategorized Groups I'm not sure, but maybe it's in the fuse box (relay K9). I will check it later.

Part No. 5 - a relay with a switching contact. It has 5 contacts. Violet color. NOT interchangeable with relay Forum and Groups They are used as comfort relays for electric windows.


Parts #6-11 are not used.

For some reason, the ETK diagram does not show the main relay. It has 5 contacts. White color. It is installed together with the fuel pump relay and the O2 sensor heating relay.

Relay installation scheme in the fuse block:

K1 - Electric fan relay 1st stage
K2 - Sound signal relay
K3 - High beam relay
K4 - Relay of dipped beam, rear fog lights
K5 - Seat heating relay, electric sunroof, electric windows
K6 - Electric fan relay 2nd stage
K7 - Interior heater fan relay, electric mirrors
K8 - Fog lamp relay
K9 - Relay for turning off the rear fog lights when the main beam is turned on (For France and Switzerland. For others, a jumper is used instead of a relay)
K10 - Windshield wiper and/or headlight washer relay

Three relays under the plastic cover on the left wing (numbering from the hood to the windshield):

1 - the main relay
2 - fuel pump relay
3 - O2 sensor heating relay

[roguetoaster]

I never investigated, but that makes sense why I've never found an E30 I had with a working lock heater. Maybe conversion to a spring switch would work.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Heating of the lock cylinder.

The next subdivision
Lock cylinder heating




Part Home - ECU of the driver's door lock cylinder heating system (61 31 1 374 784). It also includes the interior lighting timer function. It is placed on the mechanism of the outer door handle of the driver's door.


In most of these ECUs, the contact breaks off from constant bending of the door handle and they stop working. It was only after 4 or 5 tries that I found the ECU with a whole contact and it worked. But not for very long - he suffered the same fate... Judging by the crack, after a few openings of the door, it will also completely break off. Maybe I'll try to fix it somehow, but I doubt it will last long...we'll see...or I'll buy a new one.


Part Forum - heating bracket (51 21 1 375 188). It is placed on the cylinder of the driver's lock instead of the standard locking bracket.
Part No. 4 - ECU bracket (51 21 1 906 403). It is placed on the mechanism of the outer door handle of the driver's door together with the ECU.
The photo also shows the interior lighting timer ECU, which is also included in this option.


Part No. 3 - interior lighting timer contact (61 31 1 375 197). It is placed on the mechanism of the external door handle of the driver's door instead of the ECU of the cylinder heating system if this option is not available. In this case, only the interior lighting timer delay function is implemented, without heating the lock cylinder.

I will install together with the door handle and lock.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. ECU and body modules.

The next subdivision
ECU and body modules




Part No. 1 - rear lamp control unit (61 31 1 368 324). Only for cars with on-board control system. It is placed in the trunk near the left hinge of the trunk lid.


Part No. 2 is a standard wiper ECU (61 31 1 374 618). There are several other numbers of this ECU in ETK. It is placed in the fuse block (relay K10).
Part No. 4 - wiper ECU with intensive cleaning system (61 31 1 369 829). It is placed in the fuse block instead of the standard ECU (relay K10). It differs from the standard one by two additional contacts PS, TS. In the photo, the upper relay is for intensive, the lower one is standard:



Part No. 3 - headlight cleaner and washer system ECU (61 31 1 367 391). It is placed on the tank of the washer, if this option is available.



Part No. 5 - interior lighting timer ECU (61 31 1 373 974). It is placed together with the central locking ECU in the niche under the front left speaker.




Part No. 6 - standard relay of emergency signaling and turn signals (61 31 1 371 814). There are several other numbers of this relay in ETK. It is placed on the steering column.
Part No. 7 - relay for emergency signaling and turn signals for cars with a towbar (61 31 1 372 021). It is placed on the steering column instead of the standard relay. It differs from the standard one by an additional contact C2. In the photo, on the left is the standard relay, in the middle is the original relay for the towbar, on the right is the "aftermarket" relay for the towbar:




Part No. 8 - according to ETK is not used, but it is similar to the on-board computer ECU (65 81 1 373 726) or security alarm ECU (65 75 1 386 605). Depending on the available options, either one or the other is placed on the left under the instrument panel. In the photo, the on-board computer ECU is on the left, the security alarm ECU is on the right:



I will install all ECUs together with the appropriate wiring.

[The_Glory]

So, while there is free time, I will write about all blocks and relays, according to ETK. I will install them together with their corresponding wiring.

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Fuse block.

The next subdivision
Fuse block


Part Home - fuse side (61 13 1 370 761) with contact retainer bars - is the same for all E30s.
Detail No. 2 - there are two types of fuse block housing:
until September 1986 (61 13 1 368 813) - is attached to the front part of the body support
after September 1986 (61 13 1 380 973) - is attached to the rear part of the engine shield
Accordingly, they are not interchangeable. But my body had the entire left strut replaced and the fuse box mount redone since I have all the main wiring with the post 1986 fuse box.



The photo shows two contact retainer plates. They are placed from below on the sides of the rows of fuses. To remove them, you need to press 4 latches on each - their grooves can be seen in the photo below. For clarity, I put them in place of their installation:


Attachment of the rear part to the motor shield:


By the way, the self-tapping screw for attaching the block to the body is not specified in the ETK.
Part Blogs - cover (61 13 1 368 802). Most of them have broken latches, just like mine. It is good that it provides additional fastening with two self-tapping screws. The inscriptions were already half erased, so I erased them completely and polished the lid. Then I might order a new one with screws while it's still available. By the way, the cover should have a rubber seal around its perimeter, which is not shown in the ETK.
Part Groups - fuses rated 7.5A, 15A, 30A. There are also 20A and 25A. It is better to look at their number per denomination in ETM for a specific year of issue, as there are some non-significant differences.
Part No. 5 - two self-tapping screws (07 11 9 907 802) that fasten the block to the body. I think that they will also be suitable for additional fastening of the cover, since they are also not specified in the ETK.
Part No. 6 - a clamp for removing fuses.
Part Visitor Messages is a metal jumper (61 13 1 373 977) instead of the K9 relay. According to ETK, for some reason it does not go to all E30s, although this may be another mistake. I will write about this relay and jumper in the appropriate section.
Parts No. 8-10 - additional fuse block with a bracket. It has 2 fuses for connecting non-regular consumers. Maybe someday I'll find one for myself, just in case. And for now, the photo is from the Internet.


I will complete and fix the block after laying the wiring of the air conditioner, as it will be necessary to lead several wires to the block and add two fuses.

[The_Glory]

Let's go back to electricity.
General electrical equipment of the car

Assembly_50. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 2)

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/vehicle_electrical_system/cable_harness/']Jute wires (part 2)[ /URL]


I have long since started to put the main wiring harness in order and already wrote about it - the front and rear parts of the wiring were ready, the middle part, near the fuse block, remained. But in this condition, the wiring hung on the wall in the garage for almost two and a half years... And now, I have finished it!


Now we will talk only about detail No. 1 - the main wiring harness.


Detail No. 2 - instrument panel wiring harness. It is laid along the panel, so we will talk about it after its installation.

So, I not only brought the main harness to the proper condition, but also "pro-upgraded" it a little ;)
The front of the main harness has been done for a long time, now I just added new white connectors for the headlights, and one wire for the temperature sensor to activate the OVERHEAT check light. In the original, it was available only for the Japanese market, and indicated overheating of the catalyst. I don't have a sensor and wiring for this, and the catalyst itself has been gone for a long time. So, for me, this light will indicate that the second speed of the air conditioner fan is on.


There was the most work in the middle part.


I added the standard immobilizer connectors to the ignition switch connector:


Instead of twists, he added a separate connector for powering the phone:


I added the wiring of the light on signal to the common harness and connected it to the factory twists.


Added the wiring for the driver's seat belt warning light. This option was available only for the USA market, so it remained to find a relay and a belt lock with a sensor for it.


I added the reverse control lamp, the CHECK ENGINE lamp to the common harness. I also added a wire for the O2 sensor check lamp, which indicates a malfunction of the lambda probe. I have a lambda probe, but this lamp will not work without an "American" speedometer - maybe someday I will buy a USA dashboard. If I understand correctly, there is simply a special fuse on the speedometer board that blows every 30,000 miles.


I added the CHECK ENGINE wiring to the C101 engine connector. You still need to replace the Motronic 172 unit with a 173 unit to make it work.


Completely replaced the left driver's door connector, and added extra contacts for the door stop for options.


Added to the general harness and connected the wiring of the additional third brake light to the factory twists.


Connector for additional equipment C302 in the "full edition" version :)

Somewhere on the Internet, I found information that on the earliest E30, and maybe even on the E28 or E23, the airbag was not connected to a separate orange connector, but to the C302 connector on the I-O pins. But there is no confirmation of this in ETM for E30. But, just in case, I also added wiring for the Air Bag - maybe someday I will decide to install this option as well :)
I also added foams, which are not usually used - I will write about this later, when I get to the relevant options.


So, the wiring is ready for installation. I already wrote about fastening the wiring earlier, now I will start with its installation.
There are 6 clamps on the front apron.


2 clamps on the left and right behind the headlights.



There are 2 more clamps on the left wing.


Total under the hood:
12 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.

Let's go to the salon.
On the left, 1 clamp in the opening of the body near the speaker, and 3 clamps on the pins of the body. The black wiring bracket is attached to the motor shield with two plastic nuts.


White bracket for connector C302.


To the left on the floor are 3 stud clamps and 1 staple. Another clamp on the checkpoint tunnel.


Similarly, on the right on the floor - 3 clamps on hairpins and 1 bracket.


There are 7 white staples on the left threshold.


On the left under the rear seat, 2 clamps on a pin and 4 clamps in a hole.


On the right under the rear seat, 1 clamp on a pin.


Under the rear seat, there are 3 clamps in the holes.


There are 7 white staples on the right threshold.


On the right, 1 clamp in the body opening near the speaker, and 1 clamp on the body pin.


Total in the cabin:
9 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.
13 clamps attached to the body pin.
3 black staples.
14 white staples.

Then into the trunk.
On the left above the wheel arch, 2 clamps in the holes.


On the rear left wing and on the rear panel are metal brackets.


In total, I got the following amount:
23 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.
13 clamps attached to the body pin.
3 black staples.
14 white staples.

Now you can start laying the wiring. I can't imagine how quickly it was done on the factory assembly line - it took me quite a while. After all, you need to carefully thread ALL the wiring from under the hood, through the hole in the engine shield all the way to the rear lights. Why they didn't make one or two large connectors between the fuse block and the interior wiring - I don't understand... But we have what we have. I had to get dizzy, but I did it anyway.
The wiring is laid under the hood. Front ABS sensors are connected.


In the cabin, the wiring runs from the left along the threshold, and along the floor to the handbrake lever. Next, under the rear seat, on the left and right, the wiring that goes under the bottom is connected. Rear ABS sensors are connected. The wiring goes along the right threshold to the end caps of the right door.


In the trunk on the left wing and rear panel. But you don't need to install the trunk lock before laying the wiring - it gets in the way, and I had to remove it. The wire for the trunk lighting will still need to be pulled along the edge of the trunk lid.


The wiring is simply laid, I will fix it with clamps, of course, when I have already laid the wiring of all additional options.

[The_Glory]

Your thread is a good example how to do things! And hopefully i will get there someday and i can use your 13 pages of material to assemble my car. Im quite sure when i start the assembly i won't remember how everything was. Of course i have more than 1500 pictures and countless hours of video, but still i bet i didn't record everything.
Keep going!

Thank you.
I'm glad you find it useful.

[MarkoEST]

Your thread is a good example how to do things! And hopefully i will get there someday and i can use your 13 pages of material to assemble my car. Im quite sure when i start the assembly i won't remember how everything was. Of course i have more than 1500 pictures and countless hours of video, but still i bet i didn't record everything.
Keep going!

[The_Glory]

The old imprints on the pad at the bottom of the spare well are neat, not sure I've seen two leftover imprints before. Goodyear is a clear one from the probable original spare, and I assume the other one probably says Uniroyal, very neat.

I saw Goodyear imprints, but I didn't look closely, Uniroyal was also imprinted there - I'll have to look more closely)

[The_Glory]

Collection_49. ETK_72_Spare parts + accessories (body). Cover for transporting skis

So, to close the hole in the trunk partition, you need to install the option "S464 Cover for carrying skis". To do this, go to the ETK section:
Spare parts+accessories (body)

Unit:
Ski bag


Part No. 2 - a cover for transporting skis (72 60 1 949 536). All other details in the E30 are not used.



Apparently, someone once carried skis in it, and very long ones at that! :) I had to glue it at the end.


Next subsection:
Ski bag details




Part No. 1 - bracket for fixing the cover (72 60 8 111 914). I didn't have it, so I ordered a new one under this number. But a bracket arrived with a different number - (72 60 1 949 536):


The same number in ETK has the same cover shown in the previous subsection. And in fact, the number 52 20 1 934 880 is indicated on the cover.


Part Blogs - Locking mechanism (72 60 8 111 916) - is shown in ETK as a separate part, but in fact this button with a lever is an integral part of the cover body.


Again, some complete confusion in ETK... The bracket had to be filed a little... Well, that's it... the main thing is that everything fell into place. Although I put the bracket on the wrong side in this photo...


Part Forum - spring.
Detail No. 4 - a cover with a magnet for fixing it to the body in the open position.
The cover had to be repaired a little - a piece of plastic was broken off. Recovered it:



I painted the lid with texture paint for plastic, it turned out quite well.
Installed the spring and assembled the cover with the cover - ready to install.


Parts Uncategorized Groups and Special are not used.

The cover is installed very simply - it is inserted through the lower grooves and tightly clicks into the hole in the trunk partition from above.


In my case, the functionality of the cover is limited by the back strut - it prevents it from being fully opened. But I definitely won't drive the E30 in winter, and accordingly I won't transport skis either! And even more so, I will not carry long fittings or boards :)
By the way, I have already mentioned the additional tank several times - now it is clearly visible that these two options are not compatible. So far I've chosen a ski cover from them...although I might install a tank instead...we'll see...
View from the salon:


Here the bracket is already installed correctly:


Some of my old photos after installing the cover:




The trunk is almost completely assembled.

[roguetoaster]

The old imprints on the pad at the bottom of the spare well are neat, not sure I've seen two leftover imprints before. Goodyear is a clear one from the probable original spare, and I assume the other one probably says Uniroyal, very neat.