E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

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  • The_Glory
    replied
    Paper ETK

    The recording is just like that :) Although, as far as I'm concerned, it's about an interesting thing ;)
    I have many E30 repair and service books in electronic form, I have several printed books, and I also have self-printed Etzold and ETM e-books. But, I have never seen and did not know that there is a paper version of the original BMW spare parts catalog - ETK! But he does exist! I accidentally saw such a book in our "E30 flea market" and bought it just out of curiosity :)



    It includes a fairly wide range of models.


    General information.


    Unfortunately, the book does not indicate the publisher and the year of its publication, but judging by the model range described, it is the 90s.



    Of course, the publication is not official, but the catalog is very voluminous and detailed - someone's very painstaking work, especially at that time!






    And this is just a gift from a friend - an idle speed regulator, and before restyling front seat belts.


    Now I have both rear and front seat belts with the same locks, and will correspond to the year of manufacture of the car. By the way, the last month of their production is 11.1985


    Another parcel will arrive soon, and then I will write something about the assembly. ;)​

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    Well, considering the rate at which you pick up new parts, and the rate at which a certain country leaves 200s behind, both "projects" may be done about the same time.

    Keep going, and keep busy with the car!
    Thank you, then I will try to finish as soon as possible )

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Well, considering the rate at which you pick up new parts, and the rate at which a certain country leaves 200s behind, both "projects" may be done about the same time.

    Keep going, and keep busy with the car!

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    S428 First aid kit emergency stop sign with built-in storage box.

    I didn't do anything with the car for almost a month. the Rashists with their rockets once again ruined everyone's plans and peace. Including me, I can't do anything without light in the garage, and they often turn it off. And in general, somehow there is no inspiration...
    Therefore, today I will write about rarities. War, war, and the equipment, if possible, must be replenished.
    I have had a box for a standard first aid kit and an emergency stop sign in the trunk for a long time. But the sign was from a newer BMW, and therefore did not fit in the box, and there was no factory first aid kit at all. And so, in the summer, flipping through a flea market, I accidentally found an ad in which it was sold in several versions. I chose the right version of the first-aid kit for the E30 based on its year of manufacture.


    Expiration date until June 1995.


    The first aid kit is in new condition - there are not even any scratches. Its contents are also completely preserved.




    By the way, the contents are very different from our car first aid kits.


    There is even an instruction on providing first aid in the event of an accident.








    Of course, this first aid kit will only be available as an original option. The car will have a fresh car first aid kit, completed according to the requirements of our rules.

    The emergency stop sign is specifically for the E30 - its case has a special shape with a cutout the size of a box.


    There are cases with and without the BMW logo. I bought without the logo (an empty circle on the lid above the cutout). With a logo, it is significantly more expensive. There are no other differences. Maybe later I will buy one with a logo.


    The emergency stop sign is also in new condition.




    Test in the garage ) I hope I never need it on the road...


    Now the S428 option is fully complete. The look of it on the car will be later, when I get to that.
    Thanks to the seller for the good price and excellent condition - he also turned out to be a colleague on the E30 ;)

    At the same time, other boxes arrived.


    Air conditioner hoses after electroplating.


    And some more details.


    Stainless self-tapping screws and sockets for them.


    And another batch of new bags.


    There is progress in the assembly, but not much. Today, the good news has already raised the mood - the inspiration to do something will appear! :)​

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Assembly_27. ETK_61_Different additional wiring sets.

    So, almost everything is installed under the bottom. Only the rear part of the body wiring remained - to the speed sensor in the gearbox, the brake pad wear sensor on the rear right wheel, the fuel level sensor and the boost pump, and the fuel level sensor to the additional tank.
    This is where we will start the big ETK section General /car equipment

    It has two subdivisions with the same name and schemes. I don't understand why they were separated, so in my opinion they can be considered together.

    Various additional wiring sets

    Various additional wiring sets



    Now I will write only about position No. 3, but in the course of assembling the machine I will return to other positions:
    No. 1 - interior lighting wiring (to lampshades and "ends" of doors)
    No. 2 - wiring of the speed sensor, brake pad wear (with a separate harness)
    No. 3 - wiring of the speed sensor, fuel level and brake pad wear sensor (additional tank fuel level sensor, as an option)
    No. 4 - wiring of the automatic fuse of electric windows (blocking of all electric windows)
    No. 5 - wiring of the comfort relay of the electric windows (operation of the electric windows with the ignition off and the driver's door open)
    No. 6 - wiring for daytime running lights (not sure, but it seems that the option of daytime running lights was provided for Scandinavian countries)
    No. 7 - front door repair wiring (left and right)
    No. 8 - Diode (I don't know what kind of diode it is)
    No. 9 - wiring of the pyro cartridge of the airbag (for cars with an airbag)
    No. 10 - wiring of the interior lighting delay timer (turning off the light in the interior after closing the door with a delay of several seconds)
    No. 11 - I did not find it, it is probably not used

    So, position No. 3 was in different versions. In my case, its top version, which includes, among other things, wiring to the fuel level sensor of the additional tank - 61 12 1 377 789


    Of course, I cleaned the wiring, "rang" all the contacts, treated the connectors with contact spray, replaced almost all the insulation. To fasten the wiring harness, you need six plastic clamps, and three clips to fasten the wiring to the brake pad wear sensor. You can see them in the photo.


    Connectors in the photo from left to right:
    black square - fuel level sensor of the additional tank
    white square - the main harness of body wiring
    two black flat ones - the fuel level sensor and the boost pump
    black round - brake pad wear sensor on the rear right wheel
    black T-shaped with a rubber cap - speed sensor in the gearbox

    We start with the speed sensor in the gearbox.
    Earlier, in the gearbox section, I already wrote about the strange metal protective cap for the speed sensor connector (62 16 1 365 817)


    Judging by its photo, it is screwed together with the sensor and presses the connector. It's a strange decision, because apparently in order to remove the connector, you will need to unscrew the sensor. Otherwise, it will be very inconvenient to do it. Maybe that's why it was replaced with a rubber cap? These are just my guesses... but I have never seen him on cars, not even in a photo on the Internet. A strange detail, and given its inadequate price at $105, not needed at all, as for me! :)
    So, we connect the speed sensor, close the connector with a rubber cap. We fasten the wire to the edge of the gearbox cover with a metal clip. By the way, ETK does not have it, but it is on almost all cars. Next, three plastic clamps on body studs under the trunk.


    And two more clamps of the same type above the rear beam.


    Wires to the fuel level sensor and the fuel pump are fixed with tape in a special groove on the body.


    And the wiring must be installed BEFORE installing the tank. Because if they fall out when installing the tank, it will be very difficult to push them between the tank and the body. By the way, probably for the same reason, they were laid in my cabin and pressed with a cover under the seat.
    The wiring goes into the cabin through a rubber sleeve. The connector for docking with the main wiring is fixed with another plastic clamp.


    The wire for the fuel level sensor of the additional tank is pulled into the hole near the tank ventilation pipe and exits into the trunk.


    There it is connected to the sensor of the additional tank and is attached with metal clips to this tank. In my case, there will be no additional tank. Yet. Therefore, the sensor will simply lie somewhere behind the trunk lining.


    The last wire to the brake pad wear sensor is attached with three plastic clips to the right handbrake cable.


    After the brakes are installed, this connector is fixed with a special clamp on the metal bracket of the protective cover of the brake disk. But it will be in another section of ETK, on brakes.
    The rear part of the body wiring is installed.
    I also installed ABS sensors, but about them separately.


    So, everything is installed under the bottom, except for the gimbal. Also, the brake calipers have not yet been installed - they are in the process of restoration.
    Next, according to the plan - the rear part and body wiring.

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Yes, I agree - even in appearance this grill does not inspire much confidence. But the goal of my project is to collect as many original options as possible. Therefore, I am more interested in this grille as a "collector's exhibit" and not as a practical engine protection.
    By the way, I drove for seven years on a low suspension -60mm on our bad roads without any engine protection at all, and I never broke the lower engine pan.

    Leave a comment:


  • roguetoaster
    replied
    The factory skid plate or engine cover isn't worth the bother since it collects debris very effectively and provides about as much protection as a cope cage does for a tank in a modern war zone. Either get an aftermarket unit, or omit it entirely.

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Assembly_26. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 2)

    Let's return to the ETC section ЕТК_51_Оснащение кузова

    One of the smallest and simplest subdivisions of ETK - Protective edging/threshold overlays


    We are talking about door seals.


    I washed them, treated them with silicone spray and installed them a long time ago.








    The front ones are in good condition, but the rear ones had to be glued a little. If possible, I will replace them if I find the whole ones, because the price of new ones is not at all pleasing.

    Next, we go under the bottom to install everything that has not yet been installed there.

    Heat insulation


    First, the heat shields of the catalyst and muffler.


    On my heat shields, chemical corrosion has severely damaged the mounting holes. I first tried to restore them with riveted aluminum covers, but then I found and bought whole heat shields. Just in case, I painted them with aluminum-zinc paint, and used stainless nuts and washers for fastening. This should reduce chemical corrosion between aluminum and steel.
    The heat shield of the muffler is attached to the studs with four stainless M6 nuts.


    The heat shield of the catalyst is slightly different from my right front mount, but not critical. Perhaps it depends on restyling. It is attached to the gimbal tunnel with eight M8 bolts, and to the tank shield with two self-tapping screws.


    The heat shield is not fully attached, as it will still need to be removed to install the gimbal. I screwed it so that it does not lie "underfoot" in the garage.
    The heat screen of the exhaust manifold pipes and the lower plastic protective shield of the engine compartment had to be slightly repaired.
    In the original, some paralon was glued under the foil on the inner side of the screen of the exhaust manifold pipes. From dirt and water, he turned to ashes. In addition, chemical corrosion damaged this heat shield even more. So I bought almost a whole heat screen, but the paralon there was also in junk condition. It was possible to order a new one, but not very cheaply. Therefore, I decided that it would be easier, cheaper and better to "upgrade" the existing one - first of all, to get rid of the paralon that accumulates moisture.
    So, first we remove the remains of paralon and glue, then sandblast.


    After that, many small holes appeared from corrosion. We glue them with aluminum tape.


    Cut a strip of the required size from heat-resistant non-combustible asbestos cloth.


    We glue it around the perimeter with aluminum tape.


    And with the same tape, we stick it to the screen instead of paralon.


    We glue the entire inner surface of the screen with aluminum tape.


    We paint the outer surface with aluminum-zinc paint.


    And we get a thermal screen that is no worse than a new one. And maybe even better.
    Compared to my old screen. By the way, it has a large opening. I don't know what he is for. Maybe for right-hand drive cars?


    The lower plastic protective shield of the engine compartment is not quite right for me - it is for restyling. But according to the fastening, it is also intended for cars with air conditioning - with three large holes. Therefore, it will be like this for now.


    I had to seal the cracks a little.


    Even earlier, this is how I restored the broken right mount - using the same mount from my old shield, which I tore off at a railroad crossing.


    By the way, I also had to make a cutout for the hoses of the oil cooler. On restyling, they are located differently and do not interfere with the shield. A little "kolkhoz", but such...)
    So, the heat shield of the exhaust manifold pipes and the lower plastic protective shield of the engine compartment are ready for installation.


    The screen is attached with two (or three in another version) plastic nuts Special (51 48 1 923 999), which also fasten the sound insulation of the motor shield, and three metal washers Visitor Messages (51 48 1 884 110) to the bottom. There is also part E30 Classified Forums (07 14 6 949 380) on the ETC diagram, which actually also refers to the attachment of this screen. I had E30 Classified Forums washers, and I ordered new Visitor Messages washers, but as it turned out, either three Visitor Messages washers or three E30 Classified Forums washers are used. Maybe it depends on the year of release.


    Fastening with plastic nuts together with noise insulation.


    Mounting on the bottom - in my case, M6 studs were welded to the bottom, so E30 Classified Forums washers were more suitable for me. And the new No. 7 remained unnecessary.




    The lower plastic protective shield of the engine compartment is attached to the body with four plastic nuts #11 (16 13 1 176 747). But the diagram still shows fasteners No. 12 and No. 13 - these are self-tapping screws and inserts for the side plastic shields. More on them later.


    I tried it on - it turned out well. Of course, I will install it after installing the motor.




    Two plastic nuts on each side. But the side shields of the arches will be attached to these holes.


    So, now about the side shields.
    Air duct


    As I said, I have the lower shield from restyling, so the side shields, accordingly, are also part Groups on the ETK diagram.


    But air channels Forum and Uncategorized Groups for blowing the brakes will not work for me, since the front apron does not have holes for them, and the BBS apron has them much lower. So, I will come up with something on the spot after installing the aprons. And for now, I bought Taiwanese analogues of shields - it won't be such a pity that they will be a "collective farm" :)




    On the diagram, parts No. 1 and No. 3 are shields and ventilation ducts for cars of 83-85 years of production, which do not have a lower shield. Photo from the Internet.


    If I find it, I will gladly buy the correct lower shield for my case - for cars of 85-87 years of production. It is one-piece with side shields, and without ventilation channels. Photo from the Internet.

    By the way, blowing is provided under these shields. This seems to me to be a disadvantage of this option. After all, through the channels, the brakes cool better - I'm convinced by my own experience.
    In an ideal case, I need it for an air conditioner - with holes at the bottom. So that there would be no "kolkhoz" at all ;)


    And for now, it will be as it was on the restyling, only with small improvements to the side shields and their channels ;)


    To finish already with the lower protection of the engine compartment, I will write about one more rare option that I have not yet found and bought. I will buy it if anyone has it, by the way ;)
    Ref. protection panel fur south engine


    Metal engine protection for cars up to 1987 - 51 71 1 929 451 (photo from the Internet)


    Metal engine protection for cars after 1987 - 51 71 1 971 001 (photo from the Internet)



    I'm not sure if these options are interchangeable and compatible with the corresponding plastic shields, but to find out, you need to find at least one ;) They are both available to order new, but the price of 400 and 1100 Euros, respectively, does not suit me at all...

    I will write about other subdivisions gradually in the following parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by QuiqueUy
    love the updates! happy to see this car is going to finish !

    the amount of detail is amazing
    Well, I said from the very beginning that I would write everything in as much detail as possible. Although everyone knows this already :)

    Leave a comment:


  • QuiqueUy
    replied
    love the updates! happy to see this car is going to finish !

    the amount of detail is amazing

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    Lots of us are reading, but I suspect that we aren't posting lest we interrupt the flow of posts. Way to document your project and maintain some level normality in times such as these OP!
    OK, thanks.
    I thought that our club forums died out like mammoths, but apparently this is a global trend - the times of Instagram and Tik-Tok have come :)

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Originally posted by Kotyarko_O

    Звiсно! (Of course)
    О, кого я бачу! ) Так ти можеш і на нашому форумі читати )) (Oh, who do I see! ) So you can also read on our forum)) )

    Leave a comment:


  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Lots of us are reading, but I suspect that we aren't posting lest we interrupt the flow of posts. Way to document your project and maintain some level normality in times such as these OP!

    Leave a comment:


  • Kotyarko_O
    replied
    Originally posted by The_Glory
    Anyone interested in this...? )
    Звiсно! (Of course)

    Leave a comment:


  • The_Glory
    replied
    Anyone interested in this...? )

    Leave a comment:

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