E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_107. ETK_51_Body equipment. Side paneling of the footwell

So, only the plastic covers of the front speakers remained to be installed on the sides. Everything is very simple here, but in ETK, for some reason, two almost identical divisions are dedicated to this.
Legroom Side Trim
Legroom Side Trim




Part #1 - ANTHRAZIT front side trim left (51 43 1 942 971) and right (51 43 1 942 972). Black plastic cladding. There are different colors.
Part #2 - self-tapping screw ST4,2X16 (07 11 9 906 749) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - spacer nut ST 4.8 WEISS (63 17 1 367 868) - 2 pcs. Plastic insert nut. In my case, they are not used - metal sheet nuts are used instead.

Before 85, these covers were made of the same fabric as the carpet on the floor and were simply glued to the body. At the same time, the front speakers were placed on top of the cladding and covered with the same nets as the rear speakers. Instead of plastic spacer nuts, metal sheet nuts were used to fasten the speakers. Photo from the Internet, for example:






Since I have an original 84 car, and in the assembly I adhere to the 85 configuration, the speakers and trims are attached to metal sheet nuts, and not to plastic spacer nuts (#3). And the skins themselves are of the 1985 model - black plastic overlays that also serve as speaker grilles.


The casing is attached together with the speaker, but only on one lower front self-tapping screw.


I cleaned and glued felt noise insulation on them. We remove the door seal, install and fasten the paneling, then press it along the contour of the door with a door seal.


On the left, it is the same, but you still need to first remove the hood opening handle, install the trim, and screw the handle in place.

So, the door is completely assembled, all side panels are installed.


I'm waiting for a new ceiling, I started installing an electric sunroof.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_106. ETK_51_Body equipment. Rear door trim

The door is already taped.
We install the rear door panels.

Rear door trim




Part #1 - Rear door trim, left, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 42 1 967 179) - black houndstooth.
Part #1 - Rear door trim, right, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 42 1 967 180) - black houndstooth.

This skin was available from 85 to 87 for cars with 6-cylinder engines - it completely corresponds to my current configuration. In my opinion, the houndstooth fabric is one of the best trims for the E30. Although, there were many different options and combinations of textures and colors.

Door Lining Details




Detail No. 1, No. 2 - clip from two parts. It is more convenient and cheaper to use clips #3.
Part No. 3 - clip (51 41 1 870 718) - 10 pcs. for each back door.
Part #4 - sleeve D=11MM (51 41 1 911 964) - 1 pc. for each back door. Decorative sleeve for the lock button.
Part No. 5 - SCHWARZ cap (51 41 1 869 871) - 1 pc. for each back door. Black plug in the opening of the window regulator - used for electric window regulators. There are different colors. Plugs of different colors in ETK have different numbers, but in fact the black plug shows a number (51 41 1 869 870), which is not in ETK at all. I don't understand why so...
By the way, about plugs. I had them on the front door before, so I just put them in their place there. I used to have manual windows on the rear doors and it turned out that the cap wouldn't fit in those holes. On the left - the front cladding, on the right - the rear.


To install the plug, you need to enlarge the hole in the cladding along the contour of the small holes. Why didn't they make a plug according to the size of the factory hole? Because then it will rest against the housing of the electric drive. And so she becomes around him.




Although, apparently, this is relevant only for "cable" electric windows.
I bought a couple of plugs for the rear trim a long time ago, but as it turns out they are not the original plugs. Outwardly, they are the same, but for them you need to make even larger holes.




Therefore, I had to buy another pair of original plugs. We cut a hole and install it.






By the way, for the window regulator button, you also need to cut a rectangular hole in the panel according to the factory markings.

I already wrote that at first I glued the noise insulation from felt, but it turned out to be too thick, so I had to replace it with the original noise insulation from thin paralon.
By the way, I fixed it with staples, without glue - it's easier that way.


Rear armrest




Part #1 - rear armrest SCHWARZ left (51 42 1 916 545) and right (51 42 1 916 546) Black door handle. There are different colors.
Part #2 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X45 (07 11 9 906 771) - 2 pcs. for each back door. Armrest attachment.
Part No. 3 - spacer washer (07 11 9 931 044) - 2 pcs. for each back door.
Part No. 4 - nut (51 41 1 873 255) - 2 pcs. for each back door. Plastic insert in the door.
Part No. 5 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X16 (07 11 9 907 783) - 1 pc. for each back door.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer (51 41 1 805 353) - 1 pc. for each back door.

We attach noise insulation to the cladding. We screw the armrest to the paneling with one self-tapping screw. We insert the decorative bushing of the lock button and the window regulator plug. From the inside, we insert 10 clips into the holes in the paneling.


We snap plastic inserts No. 4 into special holes in the door. It is better to do this before sticking the film on the door. We insert the cladding into the clamp of the inner lining with a glass seal so that the lock pull comes out of the hole of the decorative insert. We pull out the connector of the window regulator button through the hole in the trim, align the trim and fasten all the clips along its perimeter. We connect the button and install it in the hole. Align and fasten the armrest with two self-tapping screws. We insert the decorative frame of the door opening handle into the grooves, and move it back as far as it will go. We screw the button onto the lock rod (will do it later after installing one interesting thing ;) ).






The same is true on the left.
The rear door panels are installed.
On the sides, it remains to install only the plastic casings of the front speakers.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_105. ETK_51_Body equipment. Front door trim

So, now you can continue to assemble the cabin.
Body equipment

Namely, the installation of door panels. The door is already taped.
We install front door panels.

Front door trim




Part #1 - Front door trim, left, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 41 1 967 155) - black houndstooth.
Part #1 - Front door trim, right, fabric 0211 ANTHRAZIT (51 41 1 967 156) - black houndstooth.

This skin was available from 85 to 87 for cars with 6-cylinder engines - it completely corresponds to my current configuration. In my opinion, the houndstooth fabric is one of the best trims for the E30. Although, there were many different options and combinations of textures and colors.

There was even an option with protection of the lower part - for special cars. I don't have one - just for information.
Front door trim


This is a metal overlay that is attached on top of the cladding. No longer available for order. Photo from the Internet.




Part #1 - Protection of the lower part of the front door trim, left (51 41 1 952 005)
Part #1 - Protection of the lower part of the front door trim, right (51 41 1 952 006)

Door pocket




Part #1 - SCHWARZ door pocket, left (51 41 1 911 191) and right (51 41 1 911 192) - black. I already wrote earlier that pockets of different colors in ETK have different numbers, but in fact, on all pockets, regardless of their color, the number for black pockets is indicated. I don't understand why so...
Part #2 - clip (51 41 1 870 718) - 9 pcs. for each front door.
Dial No. 3, No. 4 - a two-part clip. It is more convenient and cheaper to use clips #2.
Part No. 5 - screw M4X12-Z3 (07 11 9 906 813) - 2 pcs. for each front door. In some cases, self-tapping screws can be used instead of screws.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer (51 41 1 805 353) - 2 pcs. for each front door.
Part No. 7 - sleeve D=11MM (51 41 1 911 964) - 1 pc. for each front door. Decorative sleeve for the lock button.
Part #8 - SCHWARZ cap (51 41 1 869 871) - 1 pc. for each front door. Black plug in the opening of the window regulator - used for electric window regulators. There are different colors.
Item #9 - SCHWARZ coin box (51 41 8 110 033) Black coin box, inserted into a pocket. There are different colors. I don't have it yet.

We attach noise insulation to the cladding. We insert the pocket into the grooves on the skin and screw it to the skin. We insert the decorative bushing of the lock button and the window regulator plug. From the inside, we insert 9 clips into the holes in the paneling.


I already wrote that at first I glued the noise insulation from felt, but it turned out to be too thick, so I had to replace it with the original noise insulation from thin paralon.


By the way, I fixed it with staples, without glue - it's easier that way.


Front armrest


Part #1 - front armrest SCHWARZ left (51 41 1 911 181) and right (51 41 1 911 182) Black door handle. There are different colors.

Armrest parts




Part No. 1 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X45 (07 11 9 906 771) - 2 pcs. for each front door. The lower attachment of the armrest.
Part #2 - spacer washer (07 11 9 936 439) - 2 pcs. for each front door.
Part No. 3 - nut (51 41 1 873 255) - 3 pcs. for each front door. Plastic insert in the door.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X25 (07 11 9 907 750) - 1 pc. for each front door. Upper fastening of the armrest.
Part No. 5 - SCHWARZ pad (51 41 1 903 734) - 1 pc. only on the front passenger door. Black plug in the armrest. There are different colors.

We snap plastic inserts No. 3 into special holes in the door. It is better to do this before sticking the film on the door. We insert the cladding into the clamp of the inner lining with a glass seal so that the lock pull comes out of the hole of the decorative insert. We align the paneling and fasten all the clips along its perimeter. We insert the armrest into the groove on the pocket, and move it back so that in its upper part it goes behind the door body with its hook. We fasten the armrest with three self-tapping screws, and insert the plug on the right, and the mirror adjustment button on the left. We insert the decorative frame of the door opening handle into the grooves, and move it back as far as it will go. We screw the button onto the lock rod.






The same is true on the left.
We insert a coin into the left (or right) pocket, if there is one;)
The front door panels have been installed. Let's go to the rear ones.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_104. ETK_65_Details of the audio system (part 2)

In the sections on wiring, I already wrote about the SOUND SYSTEM wiring - it is completely laid together with other wiring, all its connectors are placed in their places. So, in the second part, I will continue about the installation and connection of its components.

Audio system details




Item No. 1 - SOUND SYSTEM audio system. I don't have it in the "standard" configuration, but with some changes in acoustics.
Detail #2 - fader regulator. It was used until 1989 for earlier radio models. In my case, the wiring is newer, from the Turing, so it is not used.
Detail No. 3 - a transition wire, for different models of radios - I already wrote about it in previous entries.
Part #4 - SOUND SYSTEM wiring harness. In my case it is from Turing, so it has some differences.
Detail #5 - wiring harness for tweeters. It is included in the wiring harness of the "electric package" - I wrote about it in the appropriate section. But you can also buy it separately (61 12 1 375 798) together with the housing of the door wiring connector.
Detail #6, #7 - in my case, these are self-made adapters for parallel connection of tweeters to the contacts of the front speakers.

Part #8 - front speaker, 2 pcs. In my case, these are not standard SOUND SYSTEM speakers for the E30, but speakers with double contacts from the E38. to connect to them the "hands-free" phone system (4Ω/4Ω 40W)

Part #9 - self-tapping screws ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 907 789) for fastening the rear speakers
Part No. 10 - self-tapping screws ST4.2X16 (07 11 9 906 749) for fastening the front speakers
Part #11 - spacer nut ST 4.8 WEISS (63 17 1 367 868) for fastening the front speakers. Apparently, early machines did not use plastic spacer nuts, but metal spacers. At least mine does, which is why I used metal shims.
Part #12 tweeter SOUND SYSTEM 8 Ohm left (65 13 1 377 687)
Part #13 tweeter SOUND SYSTEM 8 Ohm right (65 13 1 377 688)
Part No. 14 - rack (65 11 1 370 841). Support bracket for the radio, installed on the heater body.
Detail No. 15 - felt strip 40X70X0.8MM (65 77 1 377 052). I used a strip of rubber noise insulation.
Detail No. 16...No. 19 - SOUND SYSTEM rear speaker. I still don't have the original SOUND SYSTEM rear speakers, so I left my Clarion speakers temporarily. But since the wiring for the E30 Touring has specific connectors for the rear speakers, we had to make adapters/extensions for them. Speakers are attached through spacers, long screws with nuts.

Part No. 20 - amplifier (65 12 1 375 983)

Part #21 - bracket (65 12 1 380 166) I couldn't find the original separately, so I ordered an exact copy from a teammate. Then electroplating - and as a result, the bracket is no worse than the original one.

Part No. 22 - sheet nut (07 12 9 925 737) - 3 pcs. For mounting the amplifier.
Part No. 23 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 1 pc. For mounting the amplifier.

I will install the tape recorder together with the torpedo, but now we are only installing the acoustics.
I started with the front speakers. As I already said, my body does not have holes for plastic pawns, but there are places for metal sheet nuts. We install four of them on each side. In the niche of the speaker we find blue and white one-pin connectors that go to the door to the tweeters. We connect the corresponding blue wiring connector to the blue one, and we connect the adapter to the white one. We connect "+" to the front speaker and tweeter to the two contacts of the adapter. We connect the "-" contact of the wiring to the corresponding contact of the speaker. The front speaker and tweeter are connected in parallel.
We connect the corresponding terminals of the "hands-free" phone wiring to the second pair of contacts of the speaker.


We put the wiring in the niche, fix it with a clamp and screw the speaker with self-tapping screws. We tighten the front lower self-tapping screw already after installing the plastic overlays. Similarly on the left.


Now we install tweeters - instead of mirror caps. But here I had a bad luck! ) Apparently, one contact has already broken from old age...


I already thought that I would have to replace the tweeters with some modern ones, but a teammate suggested restoring them. So I sent them to him and waited for the result. And the result exceeded my expectations! ) In addition to the restored contacts, the capacitors were replaced, new Paralon gaskets under the mesh, the mounting pins were restored on a 3D printer, the speakers and the case were glued. I am very grateful to Dima for this.


To install the tweeters, it was necessary to remove the inner cover with a glass seal. The wiring had to be pulled a little more to the outside so that it was convenient to connect it. We connect the corresponding terminals, insert the pins into the corresponding plastic latches on the door, and press them tightly so that the metal bracket snaps into place.


We install the inner cover with a glass seal, additionally pressing it to the tweeter body. Similarly on the left.


The front speakers are installed and connected.

The rear speakers are attached to the rear shelf. I have a shelf with factory oval cut-outs for SOUND SYSTEM speakers and insert plates to mount them.




It can even be seen from the traces that such speakers were once installed there... but, unfortunately, they did not reach me... Therefore, for now, I will install the usual Clarion speakers, with which I once bought this shelf. Fortunately, they were installed through spacers, so the shelf remained undamaged except for the four holes for mounting these speakers. But this is not critical either - they will be covered by SOUND SYSTEM speaker housings. It remains only to find them at an adequate price! ;)
Well, for now - "we have what we have!" (with)


We connect the adapters/extenders to the wiring and bring them out under the shelf.




We connect the speakers to the corresponding terminals and install the shelf.


I already said that I have certain plans to "upgrade" the regiment. This also applies to acoustics - maybe it will be SOUND SYSTEM acoustics, or maybe it will be an analogue of the top SOUNDBOARD system...


...but it's not accurate! :)

So, all the acoustics are installed and connected. It remains to install and connect the amplifier. To do this, I had to remove the electric antenna, because it was in the way.
We screw the bracket to the amplifier with a bolt. We screw the rear lamp control unit (if available) to the bracket with self-tapping screws, and connect their connectors.




We insert the amplifier into the niche of the rear wing and screw the bracket with self-tapping screws to the place of installation of the control unit of the rear lights.




On the opposite side, the amplifier should be attached with another self-tapping screw, but for some reason there is no hole for it on my body. I don't know why - maybe it wasn't on early cars. I wanted to drill a hole, but there is no access there - the hinge bracket of the trunk lid is in the way - it will be the same without this fastener - it holds up well anyway.
We install the electric antenna in place.




Finally, everything is installed in the trunk (except for the spare wheel), so you can also install the left panel. I wrote about this much earlier, but I will add it here.
We install the skin, put the jack, the wheel stop in place, insert the clip for the wheel wrench into the skin, and fix it there.


Let me remind you - on my body there is an earlier fastening of the key - on the wall of the left pocket. Well, now I can fix even two wheel wrenches! :) I also left those clips, although it is more convenient, as in the photo - it was moved there for a reason.


Everything is ready on the left.


The only thing missing on the right was a new battery. Now it is also in its place - EXIDE Premium 72 Ah




The first aid kit, the emergency stop sign and the lantern are also already in place.






So, the acoustics are installed, everything is assembled in the trunk - we return to the assembly of the interior.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_103. ETK_65_Details of the stereo system

Let's continue about "music".

Stereo system details


Previously, my audio wiring was semi-homemade, from different parts of the original wiring :) The front part is from some newer wiring, to which additional contacts for tweeters are added, the power harness is combined with it into a 17-pin connector, and the back the part is original e30. Such a "custom", but it still worked normally. :)


Although, by default, the wiring of the E30 stereo system should look a little different - I bought it with the speaker terminals cut off - maybe someday I will restore it completely. I will not install it, so I will write about it briefly - just for information.


Detail No. 1 - radio power supply wiring from connector C302

Detail #2 - wiring for the simplest mono radios. I don't have one.
Part No. 3 is a fader regulator, it comes with different contacts, depending on the year of manufacture. On the later wiring, it is missing, as well as mine. Although, I have the regulator button.
Detail No. 4 - a transition wire, different for each radio model - I wrote about them last time.
Detail No. 5 - the front part of the wiring
Detail No. 6 - the rear part of the wiring

Part No. 7 - radio fuse
Detail No. 8 - a power adapter wire, different for each radio model - I wrote about them last time.
Part #9 - speaker 4 OHM 15/20W or 8 OHM/18/20W - 4 pcs.
Detail No. 10 - wiring for automatic volume control (pictured above)

1- radio receiver connector
2 - green connector of the instrument panel
Photo from the Internet - may be in additional insulation.


Part No. 11 - the green connector of the instrument panel (in the photo above). It is installed on special contacts in the instrument panel.
Detail No. 12 - decorative mesh of the speaker. On early cars, all four speakers were installed, and after 1985, only the rear ones.
Details No. 13...17 - speaker mounting details.
Detail No. 18 - tweeter, installed instead of mirror caps, as an additional option to the stereo system.

And I will install the top audio system E30 - SOUND SYSTEM. I will write about this next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_102. ETK_65_Radio receiver interference suppression system.

Already decided to finish the ETK section Audio, navigation, information systems

Subsection Radio Interference Suppression System


All details from this subsection are in the corresponding sections on the electrical equipment of the engine. Some of them I have already installed and some will be installed later. So now just a record for general information. All photos of details are from the Internet.

Part No. 1 - kit for suppressing obstacles (65 31 1 286 070). No longer available to order. It includes the "ground" busbars of the generator, and "ground" buses #3.


Part No. 2 - capacitor for suppression of generator interference (12 31 1 356 564). If you order it under BOSCH number 0290800036, its price will be much lower. I will write about it in the generator section.


Part No. 3 - hood "ground" bus (65 31 1 286 068) Already installed with the hood.




Part No. 3 - tire "ground" of the valve cover (65 31 1 286 069). Will be installed together with the motor.

Parts #4, #6 and #7 are some kind of package - "special protection against interference".

Part #4 - 0.47MF interference suppression capacitor (65 31 1 357 878). Judging by the photo, this is an analogue of part #2 for the generator.


Item No. 5 is not used.
Part No. 6 - filter for suppressing interference (65 31 9 055 974). No longer available to order. I do not know where it is installed, to what, and how it is connected. I would be grateful for this information.


Part No. 7 - tire "mass" 20X400MM (65 31 9 055 973). Maybe it's just a "repair" bus, without terminals.


A useful photo from the Internet - all the "mass" tires:


Assembly_102. ETK_65_Transitional wire.

Next subsection Adapter lead




Many different radio models were available as standard for the E30. But all these radios are divided into two types - earlier models with separate audio connectors of the old type, and later models with a new 17-pin audio connector. Accordingly, the factory audio wiring was also of two types, depending on these connectors. In order to make it possible to install any stock radio in the car, without replacing the entire audio wiring, special adapters were developed for different models of radios. There are a lot of them, with different numbers, most of them are no longer available for ordering. Therefore, I will write only about my case. I have audio wiring with a 17-pin connector, and the radios are of both types. Therefore, I need an adapter to change from a 17-pin connector to separate audio connectors.
Part No. 5 - the transition wire of the stereo system (65 12 8 350 189). I made it myself.


In principle, any of these adapters is quite easy to make yourself, having the necessary plugs and their expansion.


1 - 17-pin connector for audio wiring
2 - rear speaker connector
3 - front speaker connector
4 - radio power connector from the ignition (+12V and "ground")
5 - connector for constant power supply of the radio (+12V)
6 - connector for the backlight of the radio
7 - connector for power management of the electric antenna and amplifier
8 - connector for automatic volume control of the radio, depending on the speed of movement

For example, the pinout of my adapter:

[The_Glory]

Assembly_101. ETK_65_Radio receiver

While the "technological pause" on the assembly continues, I will write about my modest collection of original radio receivers and tape recorders! ;)

So, the ETK section Audio, navigation, information systems

Radio receiver




Detail #1 - panel for models 316 and 318, with the central location of the radio receiver.
Detail No. 2 - a panel for other models, with a radio receiver shifted to the left, and a place for a clock or on-board computer, on the right.
Part No. 3 - radio receiver overlay (64 11 1 368 515) It is installed instead of the radio receiver, if it is not included in the car's configuration.
Part No. 4 - plug (64 11 1 368 498) It is installed instead of buttons, if they are not included in the car's configuration.
Details No. 5...No. 16, No. 18 - details of the simplest models of radio receivers and tape recorders. I don't have any of them yet...
Part No. 17 - frame (65 12 1 375 737). For fastening the radio receiver in the panel. But some radio models are installed without this frame.


Part No. 19 - felt strip (65 77 1 377 052) Soft gasket for the rear support of the radio receiver.
Part #20 - extension (65 11 1 372 547) Apparently, this is the same rear support of the radio receiver.




Part No. 21 - rack (65 11 1 370 841) A bracket installed on the heater body. A soft gasket No. 19 is glued to it and an extension No. 20 rests on it.
Parts #22, #23 - nut and washer for the extension. But in fact they are not used.

Radio receiver




Section on installation of the simplest models of radio receivers. I don't have them, only a few parts that are used for them.
Part #1 - frame (65 12 1 375 737). For fastening the radio receiver in the panel. But some radio models are installed without this frame.
Part #3 - antenna adapter. I already wrote about them in the section about the antenna.
Part No. 8, No. 9 - transition wire. There are many types of them for different models of radios, I will write about them later.


Now about those models of radio receivers that I already have. I'm collecting them, maybe someday I'll find the rest of the models ;) Although there are a lot of them in ETK with different numbers, in different sections... it's not very clear, so I'll just write as a matter of fact.

Bavaria Mono Digital radio


Item #3 - Bavaria Digital II radio receiver




Bavaria C radio


Detail #1 - BMW Reverse radio




Bavaria C radio


Detail #3 - Bavaria C Electronic radio




Bavaria C Business radio


Detail #1 - Bavaria C Business radio




Detail #2 - Bavaria C Business RDS radio




My entire collection.


I will install, most likely, one of the last three. Or change all in turn :)

For a complete collection, you still need to find something from the simplest models.


Top cassette Becker Mexico


And Bavaria Electronic CD CD players


Or Bavaria Electronic CD II


There is still an idea to install a CD charger, although it was not available as standard for the E30. But apparently, it was installed as an aftermarket or dealer retrofit. But this is in the long run! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_100. ETK_51_Body equipment. Shelf behind the back seat

Due to technical reasons, the installation of door panels is slightly delayed.
So for now, I decided to install the rear shelf.
Shelf behind the rear seat




Detail #1 - shelf behind the back seat. There were many different types, with different ETK numbers, depending on the year of manufacture, type of seat belts, audio speakers, curtains, brake lights and interior color. But there are three main types - I collected them all :)


Type 1 - up to the year 85 - a flat shelf, under the seat belts of the early type.
Type 2 - 85-87 years - flat shelf, under late-type safety belts
Type 3 - after 87 - shelf with stamping, for late-type seat belts

Type 2 and Type 3 are interchangeable with each other, but not interchangeable with Type 1, due to different seat belt designs. I will write about this later.

Part #2 - bracket (51 46 1 915 535) - 1 pc. For fixing the shelf to the body.
Part No. 3 - outlet nozzle - 4 pcs. Grilles are different for type 1 and types 2 and 3.
Part No. 4 and No. 5 - fasteners for the middle seat belt before 84.
Part #6 and #7 - fasteners for the middle seat belt after 84. On shelf type 1, it is installed on the left, and on shelves of type 2 and 3 - on the right.


Part #8 is an attachment to the shelf, used only for the E30 M3. Photo from the Internet.


The shelf comes complete with noise insulation. We insert clip #2 and screw fasteners #6 and #7 for the middle belt.


We insert grids No. 3. Also pictured are the left and right seat belt covers.


The shelf is ready for installation. But there is also a sun shade in the photo. This is an additional option for the shelf. It is because of it that I install a type 3 shelf, not a type 1, as it should be for an 85.

So,

Assembly_100. ETK_51_Body equipment. Shelf/Sunshade

Shelf/Sunblind




Detail #1 - shelf behind the back seat. The shelf with a built-in blind was type 1 (up to 85 year), or type 3 (after 85 years). Photo from the Internet:


Detail No. 2 - sun shade. For type 1 and 3, it was installed in a special slot in the shelf. On the type 2 shelf, it could simply be screwed from above.


Part No. 3 - left hook (51 46 1 917 381) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - right hook (51 46 1 917 382) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bracket (51 46 1 905 393) - 2 pcs. Corresponding part for hooks #3 and #4. Installed in the body.


Curtains for shelf type 1 and type 3 are not interchangeable. They have completely different hooks and corresponding parts for them. For curtain type 1 (before 85), hooks (51 46 1 905 393) were screwed with a self-tapping screw above the rear glass.


And for type 3, above the rear glass, in special holes, corresponding parts for hooks (51 46 1 905 393) were installed.


For comparison, both types of hooks are completely different parts installed above the rear glass.


A shelf with a curtain is ready for installation.




In the photo, the rear speakers are already installed - I will write about them later. There is also a third brake light in the photo. This is another additional option for the back shelf. It was available mainly for the US market.

Assembly_100. ETK_63_Lighting devices. Third brake light

Let's return to the ETK section
Lighting devices

Third stop lamp




Part No. 1 - brake light (63 25 1 385 187)
Part #2 - P21W lamp holder (63 21 8 355 883)

The lanterns were also of two different types. For Type 1 and 2 shelves, the early lamp was mounted on top of the shelf, and for the US market Type 3 shelf, the late lamp was built into the shelf itself, between the grilles. Photo from the Internet.


I have an earlier lantern.
The back cover of the lantern matched the color of the shelf. I also have it gray.


We screw the lamp bracket to the shelf, and remove the wiring connector that I added to the standard wiring. We insert the lamp cartridge block with the reed switch of the lamp control into the lamp housing.


We snap the lantern onto the bracket and install the back cover so that it does not interfere with the sun shade.
We install the rear shelf in the grooves under the glass and fix it with a clip. The lamp should firmly rest on the glass with its rubber stops at the corners.


We insert the buckle of the middle belt into its fastening on the shelf.


But there is a nuance with the side belts - in this case, they are clamped by a shelf, and will perform only a decorative function, since, as I said earlier - due to their different construction, shelves of type 1 and type 3 are not interchangeable!


In my case, there should be a type 1 shelf with a curtain. But, at one time, I found a shelf with a type 3 curtain. I didn't have back straps at all then, so then I installed it without problems.

So, I installed the shelf now temporarily.
First, it will need to be removed to install the ceiling trim and rear glass. After that, I will also install the corresponding parts for the hooks.
Secondly, I have some plans for her "upgrade" in the future. I already wrote earlier that for type 1 and type 2 shelves, there are factory overhead electric sun blinds that are screwed on top of the shelf. It's not easy to find them, although there is a new one on sale now, but the price of $1000 does not suit me :) And they don't look very good either... Also, I want to install an electric curtain from later BMW models in the shelf. And for this, you need a shelf of type 3 - there is more space under it for the location of the electric drive. I have already installed the wiring and the button - I wrote about it recently. I will also redo the holes for the seat belts, as in type 1, so that they are functional. In addition, there are plans for "music". Of course, then the color of the shelf will be black. Or maybe - blue? ;) For "training", I bought another shelf with a curtain, but I will deal with this after the car is completely assembled. And for now - we have what we have! (c)

[The_Glory]

Collection_99. ETK_51_Body equipment. Upholstery per meter

So, you can continue to assemble the cabin. Namely - the installation of door linings. I'll start with noise isolation. These materials are ordered by linear meters according to ETK.

Upholstery by the meter


There are many numbers in one position, so I will write briefly, factually.
Detail No. 1 - sound insulation, can be width B=1450MM (51 95 8 101 124) or B=1050MM (51 95 8 103 058). Apparently it's for the front and back doors, respectively. Not available to order. It is installed on the inner side of the door panels. There are two types - paralon on a soft gray base, or on a harder gray base. The first one is of better quality, the paralon on it is preserved in good condition. But more often there is a second one, on which the paralon has almost completely crumbled from old age and only the base itself remains.


Detail No. 1 - noise-insulating coating 1160X700MM ( 51 48 8 165 271) This is a sheet of vibration insulation glued to the door. It is in good condition on all my doors, so I left it as it is.


Detail #1 - artificial leather upholstery. In my case, these are black SCHWARZ door trims (51 92 1 932 925). My front fairings had holes cut out for the speakers, so I bought another whole set in the same color a long time ago. Cleaned both.


Part No. 2 - weight film B=1520MM (51 95 1 924 961). It is available to order, but I consider the price of 55 Euros per meter inappropriate. That's why I bought the same dense film in a hardware store for 2 euros per meter, and double-sided tape! :) First, I cut out the template from sound insulation.




By the way, the film has two layers, so the patterns come out on two doors at once - convenient.


But after trying the film on the door, it became clear that it is too small - you need to cut along the contour of the cladding, and not along the contour of the sound insulation. The second attempt is what is needed..


Glue double-sided tape along the perimeter and edges of the door.


But stick the film on the door so as to close all the openings.




The door is ready for installation of cladding.
By the way, I previously installed gaps on all doors and locks. Quite painstaking work that requires a lot of time and patience! And you definitely need an assistant. I didn't take photos - everything is as per TIS. We start with the rear doors - we level them along the rear wings, using factory gaskets under the hinges with a thickness of 0.5 mm and 1 mm. Then we level the front doors with the back doors. Then we align the front fenders and hood along the front doors. Although, I will display the front fenders and the hood after the engine is installed. It is better to unscrew the brackets of the door locks from the body, and install them after the doors are fully exposed. Then simply adjust the lock. By the way, I did not use the factory technological holes in the body opposite the nuts of the door hinges for their adjustment - somehow it is very inconvenient to do so.

Now soundproofing. On my skins, except for two, it all fell off. That's why I picked up a bunch of these gray base sheets, cleaned them and decided to glue them instead of paralon - felt. The same as under the rear seat, on the middle pillars and under the torpedo. I thought it would be better that way... I bought sheets of felt and started cutting and gluing.


Factory paralon on the left, felt on the right.



It turned out not bad looking.


Glued with polyurethane glue - it holds well.


But not everything turned out so well. The felt is much thicker than the factory paralon, so the trim did not click well on the clips, and the door handle frame did not fit at all. It was necessary to try it on at once, instead of gluing all four skins...
Well, what are you going to do - peel off that felt from the skins. I bought the thinnest paralon of 5mm in a hardware store and started cutting it.


Again, it looked good.


But this time I decided to try on one skin immediately :) The difference in the thickness of the factory and new paralon.


And what do you think? The clips clicked, but the frame of the door handle still does not fit! I struggled all evening, broke two doorknobs in the process, and it won't hold! Fiasco! I wanted the best, but it turned out - as always... :) Time and money wasted...
I spat at this idea and went to look for a whole factory soundproofing at flea markets. Found it, cleaned it. The whole set.


In the photo, one of the front ones is glued, but then I found a whole one.


By the way, while I was looking, I found out that door sound insulation is available not only on a gray basis, but also on white or black. Later it will be necessary to find a set for my blue skins.
Now, finally, you can install the door trim.

[The_Glory]

Collection_98. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 10) Partition of the heating system

It remains to install the cover of the heater niche.

Heating System Partition




Part #1 - partition of the heating system (51 71 1 913 799)

Different motors differ in the number of pins for attaching the motor wiring.

Part #2 - spacer nut ST 3.9 (51 71 1 874 203) - 4 pcs.

Part #3 - sealing gasket (51 71 1 825 972) I replaced it with a sealing tape.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST3,9X16-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 808) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - hose (51 73 1 911 369) For draining water from the heater niche.

We insert plastic clips No. 2 into the holes in the body. We put hose No. 5 on special ribs on the body.


In fact, this is quite an important detail - it prevents water from getting under the sound insulation of the motor shield and corrosion of the body underneath it.

Glue the sealing tape and fasten the cover with self-tapping screws.


Later, motor and other underhood wiring will be attached to it.

That's all for the air conditioner.

Let's return to the interior assembly.

[The_Glory]

Collection_97. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 9) Dryer tank/pneumatic switches/small parts. Pipelines

Dryer tank/pneumatic switches/small parts




Part #1 - insulating tape (64 50 1 352 059) is no longer available, so I replaced it with ordinary thermal insulating tape from a hardware store.
Part #2 - rubber sleeve (64 53 1 372 609)
Part No. 3 - spacer nut ST 6.3 (64 12 1 379 221) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 4 - clamp D=10/6.4 (12 14 1 305 0280 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - clamp D=16/6.4 (12 42 7 840 4060 - 1 pc.
Part #6, #7, #10 - self-tapping screw 4.9X19 (64 50 1 380 494) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 8 - bracket (64 50 1 372 610)
Part No. 9 - sheet nut (16 11 1 152 613) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - M6 nut (07 12 9 922 705) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - clamp (64 53 1 372 613) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 931 044) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - spring ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 1 pc.

Part No. 15 - gasket (17 11 1 150 1700
Part No. 16 - clamp D=22/6.4 (64 53 1 357 128) - 1 pc.
Part No. 17 - self-tapping screw 4.9X40 (64 50 1 380 496) - 1 pc.

Part #18 - dryer tank (64 53 8 391 025) In my case it is Knecht-Mahle (AD123000S)

I haven't quite figured out the sensors yet, so I bought a few:
Part #19 - safety pneumatic switch (64 53 1 390 070) new for E30, E32, E34 on 4 contacts
Part #20 - safety pneumatic switch (64 53 8 390 971) for E30 on 2 contacts
(64 53 8 390 536) - for E23 with 4 contacts

Part No. 21 - sealing ring. I bought a universal set of rings of different sizes - it's easier and cheaper that way.
Part No. 22...No. 25 - used to fasten early radiators for M20. In my case, they are not used.
Part No. 26, No. 27 - not used.
Part No. 28 - cap (64 53 1 363 569) - 2 pcs.

So, all the fasteners are new, small parts are ready - you can install pipelines.

Pipes


They did not look very good.


Therefore, first sandblasting.


Then electroplating.


In different years, the numbers of the hoses differ, and there is also a difference in the type of freon. I will probably deal with this directly when refueling the air conditioner. For now, just what I actually have.

Part #1, #2 - not used
Detail No. 3 - compressor-condenser pressure pipeline
Detail No. 4 - condenser-drier pressure pipeline
Detail No. 5 - pressure pipeline drier-double tubes
Detail No. 6 - pressure pipeline double tubes-evaporator
Detail #7 - evaporator-compressor suction pipeline
Detail #8 - evaporator-compressor suction pipeline

We start the installation of pipelines by installing a rubber insert in a special hole in the body. The hole was closed with a metal plug - I knocked it out while disassembling the car. So we insert a rubber insert and treat it with a wax sealant. We push tubes No. 6 and No. 7 into it.


We screw these tubes in the cabin to the evaporator valve. A rubber ring of the appropriate size is placed in each tube joint.


We install the bracket for mounting tube #8.




We screw tubes #5 and #8 to tubes #6 and #7, respectively.


We lay them along the right wing and fasten them with clamps.




Two clamps near the hood bracket.


But one collar near the hood shock absorber.


The protective corrugation on tube #8 was torn, so I replaced it. But I had to take a thermocorrugator with a larger diameter so that it would fit through the large nut. Therefore, he fixed the corrugation at the ends with metal ties. We fix the tube with a clamp to the bracket.


We install the dryer in a special hole in the body. The hole was closed with a metal plug - I knocked it out while disassembling the car. Depending on the manufacturer, the dryer can be attached with two or three self-tapping screws. In my case, two.




We install a spacer and a clamp for tube #3.


At this stage, that's all for now. Tubes #3 and #4 will be installed together with the compressor and condenser. Then the dryer and sensors will be connected. But it will be after installing the motor.

[The_Glory]

Collection_96. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 8) Heater/air conditioner

Finally, the air conditioner can be installed on the car!
But, again but! :) First you need to drill (!!!) the holes for the condensate drain hoses. There are only 3 hoses. There was a factory metal plug under one hose in the body, which I knocked out when I was just disassembling the car. Under the other two hoses, you need to drill holes according to the scheme from the EBA instructions. Was it really that hard to make all three plugs at the factory? :)
We measure 254 mm from the bracket forward, to the motor shield, and 133 mm in each direction. It is not very convenient to do this on a curved surface.


Therefore, just in case, I tried on the lower body of the heater with tubes for draining condensate.




Again, grinding our teeth, we drill two holes with a diameter of 21 mm.


The edges of the holes are primed with zinc primer and painted.


Now you can definitely install it!

Heater/Air Conditioning




Part #1 is the heater/air conditioner unit
Part #2 - M6 nut (07 14 7 134 319) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 3 - damper (64 21 8 042 132) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST4,8X13-C (07 11 9 916 813) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - spacer washer 5.3 (07 11 9 936 439) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - bracket (64 11 1 370 637) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7...No. 11 - are not used. For climate control only.

The ETK does not show the insert plate for the #4 self-tapping screw. It is inserted into the groove on the heater body.


We fix the damper adjustment panel with a red rubber band to a special hook so that it does not sway on the cables and does not interfere.


This is how the condensate drain hoses are installed.


Additional fastening of the air conditioner body to the body.


We insert the hoses into the holes and treat them with wax sealant. Screw the damper into a special bracket on the body.




We install a rubber insert for the radiator tubes, and treat it with a wax sealant.


And, finally, we install the air conditioner unit! It sounds and looks simple, but it's better to do it together. But, thanks to the lack of a windshield, I managed it myself.


We tighten four nuts in the niche of the body.


Then additional fastening in the cabin. We put on the rear hose.


We put on the side hoses for draining the condensate. We connect the side air ducts with the ducts going to the back of the cabin.


Condensate is diverted to the gearbox.




Well, and finally, we connect the air conditioner to the interior wiring through the adapters that I wrote about at the very beginning.
Adapter #2 - turned out a little too long, but not critical.


Adapter No. 3 is very long, only a few centimeters would be enough - I will shorten it. Connects to the motor wiring.


The air conditioner is installed and connected.
In the test mode, I checked - the heater fan is working, the recirculation valves are working, the additional fan is working. It's already good! Next, I will install the tubes, and the compressor, radiator and fan will have to wait until the motor is installed...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_95. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 7) Heater control panel. Damper control drive cable

So, the air conditioner body is completely assembled, it remains to connect the panel and damper control cables.

Heater control panel




Part #1 - front panel (64 11 1 385 878) For cars with a clock or on-board computer (as in the photo). For the simplest configurations (64 11 1 385 877) - with a radio and buttons in the center of the panel (as in the diagram).
Part No. 2 - backlight panel (64 11 1 385 878) Depending on the year of production, there are different icons
Part No. 3 - bracket (64 11 1 368 948) For fastening the backlight panel

Part #4 - heater control panel (64 11 1 385 972)
Part No. 5 - support bracket (64 11 1 385 972)
Part No. 24 (No. 5...No. 8) - temperature regulator (64 11 1 375 746)
Part #9 - screw M3X8 (07 11 9 907 602) - 3 pcs.

Part No. 10 - plug (64 11 1 368 498). Plug instead of buttons. In my case, it is not used, since all places for buttons are occupied.
Part No. 11 - cover of the radio receiver (64 11 1 368 515) Plug for simple configurations without a radio. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 12 - screw ST2.9X6.5 (07 11 9 907 701) - 2 pcs. For upper mounting of the panel.
Part No. 13 - screw ST3.9X16 (07 11 9 906 734) - 2 pcs. For lower panel mounting.
Part No. 22 - sheet nut ST3,9-5 (07 12 9 925 727) - 2 pcs. For lower panel mounting.
Part No. 14 - screw M4X8 (07 11 9 906 407) - 4 pcs. For fastening the control panel of the heater.
Part No. 15 - button (64 11 1 375 674) - 3 pcs. Illuminated handle for adjusting the shutters
Part No. 16 - overlay (64 11 1 370 629)
Part #17 - rotating handle (64 11 1 375 508)
Part No. 18 - temperature adjustment knob (64 11 1 375 673)
Part No. 19 - fan switch (61 31 1 381 201) Available in 3 or 4 speeds, depending on the year of manufacture.
Part No. 20 - the switch fastening nut
Part No. 21 - air conditioner switch (61 31 1 372 051). Air conditioning and recirculation button.

Part #23 - film (64 11 1 375 742) For climate control (64 11 1 375 743) - with a temperature scale in degrees. (in the photo above, both options)
Part No. 27 - lamp 2V 1.2W (63 21 7 167 000) - 2 pcs. To illuminate the heater control panel.
Part #25, #26 - not used. The temperature controller is only for climate control.

The temperature regulator (No. 24) activates the radiator valve of the heater. When the ignition is turned on, power is supplied to the contacts of the regulator and the valve closes.


When the regulator handle is turned by 15 degrees, the power contact breaks and the valve opens. Further, the regulator works mechanically - it simply pulls the damper cable when turning.


We clean the contacts, lubricate them, and screw the regulator to the heater control panel. In the photo, you can see the light guides of the backlight, they must be clean and standing in their seats.
We fix the backlight panel on the front panel with staples.


By the way, in the photo on the right panel, the clock frame is screwed. It is not needed for the on-board computer.
We install regulators and their handles. An overlay on the panel and a button. I installed a temperature scale with digital markings - for climate control. Maybe one day I will find climate control... :)


By the way, the round grille near the temperature regulator is the place for the cabin temperature sensor of the climate control. It is not used for air conditioning.


The panels are assembled, it remains to connect them with cables to the shutters.

Flap regulation drive cable




Part No. 1 - air temperature control actuator cable ( 64 11 1 370 915)
Part No. 2 - the cable for the glass heating flap drive (64 11 1 370 916) Red label.
Part No. 3 - warm air damper drive cable (64 11 1 370 917)
Part No. 4 - cable for the drive of the air supply valve in the area of the legs (64 11 1 370 918) Green label.
Part No. 5 - bracket (64 11 1 367 615) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 6 - bracket (64 11 1 358 563) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - bracket (64 11 1 368 019) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 8 - spring (64 11 1 381 659) - 1 pc.


I connected three cables to the dampers while assembling the body.


They are fixed to the body with staples No. 5, one for each cable.
Cable #2 with a red label and cable #3 without a label.


Cable #4 with a green label.


Cable No. 1 is fixed with clamp No. 5 to the flap adjustment panel.


On the other hand, it is fixed to the body with spring No. 8 and clamp No. 6.


Cables No. 2, No. 3, No. 4 are fixed with staples No. 7 on the damper adjustment panel, according to the color labels - upper red, middle black, lower green. Cable #1 to the temperature control lever.


When I connected all the cables, I finally understood what the red rubber band I mentioned earlier was for! Everything is simple and convenient! :)


But, unfortunately, it broke from old age. I replaced it with a similar new one from a sewing store :)

The cables need to be adjusted, so you should not fix them immediately with staples. We check whether the dampers are completely closed and opened in the extreme positions of the regulators. If necessary, move the cable in the right direction. Then we fix it with staples in this position.

Now, finally, the air conditioner can be installed on the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_94. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 6) Evaporator/relief valve. Microfilter

So Evaporator/relief valve




Part #1 - evaporator R12/R134A (64 51 8 391 780). According to ETK, the evaporator is the same for both types of freon.
Part #2 - safety valve R134A (64 51 8 391 209) And the valves are apparently different. We will have to deal with this freon later...
Part #3 - sealing ring D=11.1MM (64 50 8 390 602) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - sealing ring D=14MM (64 50 8 390 603) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - screw (64 11 1 370 949) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 6 - evaporator cover (64 11 1 376 851)
Part #7, #8 - not used

The evaporator is, in fact, a radiator "in reverse". Thanks to it, we get coolness in the cabin. The new one is not cheap, but people write that it rarely fails. That's why I left him. He looked like this.


By the way, I also did not unscrew the valve just to change the rubber rings - I don't see the point in this. But the tubes can be bent or broken at the same time.... I left it like that. Although, I bought a large set of rubber rings of all sizes for the air conditioner.
The insulation has completely crumbled.


A lot of dust and dirt.


I already said that together with the air conditioner donor housing, I also bought another dehumidifier with a valve. I cleaned them both - one of the two must be working! ;) The second one will be spare.


Aligned the bent plates of the ribs.










The difference in the holes for the temperature sensor - one hole on one, and two on the other. Perhaps it depends on the year of release or restyling.


The evaporator is installed in a niche on the right side. On the back wall, you can see the rod of the temperature sensor, which should fit into the hole on the evaporator. Therefore, it is better to remove and install the temperature sensor after installing the evaporator.


We glue the new thermal insulation, as it was from the factory.


And we insert the evaporator into the body of the air conditioner. The holes for the temperature sensor on the evaporator and on the case coincided.


Insert the temperature sensor into place.


On the other hand, we glue the tubes with thermal insulation, but so that it does not interfere with installing the cover.


We insert a thin rubber gasket (fishing gum) into the groove of the lid, close the evaporator and screw the lid.
Now you can install the right side channel for warm air.


All that remains is to connect the cables to the damper control panel.

P.S.
As I said earlier - in the version of a conventional heater, this niche remains empty, but a salon microfilter could be installed in it. But for some reason it is very rare.
Although it is not available for the conditioner at all, but I will write about it - just for information.

Microfilter


Part No. 1 - microfilter (64 31 1 394 093). In ETK there is a note "For cars with air conditioning". This is a clear mistake - as you can see, there is an evaporator in the air conditioner, and there is physically no place for a filter. Perhaps this refers to the type two heater/air conditioner housing itself. The filter is available to order, but only in the original. I did not find analogues from other manufacturers. So, if desired, everyone who has a heater of the second type installed can order an original filter, or choose one of similar size and breathe cleaner air in the cabin ;)

It looks like this (all photos found on the Internet)
Sticker under the lid of the box for small things




Microfilter cover


Cabin microfilter




It seems that the filter is tightly inserted into the niche and pressed by the ribs of the cover.

It would be good and logical if there was such a filter for the air conditioner...but for some reason it was not provided

[The_Glory]

Collection_93. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 5) Heating element/fan

So, the case is assembled, it remains to install the fan electric motor, radiator and evaporator. I'll start with the fan and radiator. I thoroughly washed the old radiator that was included with the air conditioner - it looks intact.


But he is already 35 years old and I don't know how he worked before that, and what to expect from him. Once I already had a heater radiator burst - I don't really want such "joy" again :) I ordered a new radiator. Along with it, there is also a dehumidifier and all sorts of small things for the air conditioner.




Chose the Mahle Behr (AH95000S) as it was from the factory, but of course now it is also "Made in China".


But the packaging and equipment are completely "branded" - a seal, instructions and an advertising booklet :)


The electric motor of the fan turned out to be working, even without the creak of its bushings, as is often the case. So I just washed and cleaned it well. And then the operation will show...
But all other details needed some attention and restoration.
I'll start with the recirculation flap cover.
Soldered the crack under the engine and the cracks on the landing holes of the flaps.




By the way, the "ear" above the flap is the place to install the temperature sensor for the climate control option. In my case it is not used.
Part of the rib against which the flap rests was broken. We restore it with plastic hot glue.




We clean


Putty and sand


Primer and matte paint for plastic.


It turned out not bad.
Now the aluminum tubes of the radiator - they often corrode under the clamps. After cleaning the pipes with sandblasting, there were even holes.


Soldering aluminum is not easy, but thanks to google I found a very easy way! :) I bought a special solder with flux Castolin 192 FBK. A simple gas burner is also needed.


The process is very simple - we heat the tube with a gas burner, then apply solder to the place of heating, it melts and evenly fills the holes. After that, we clean it lightly.




But we paint with zinc-aluminum paint.


Now it's the turn of the radiator valve. They are of two types, as I said before. The upper one is for the first type of heater, and the lower one is for the second type.


Their design is different, but the principle of operation is the same - the valve is usually open, and when power is applied to it, it closes with an audible click. My valve would not close even though it looks intact and has no signs of leaking. In this case, you need to disassemble and clean it without thinking for a long time. Most likely, it was simply stuck with dirt.
So we drill four brass rivets.


The expected result - everything is covered with mud!


The valve solenoid was disassembled without any problems.


But the cover of the valve membrane did not want to come off! I had to soak it all night in WD-40.


There was also a lot of dirt under her.


The channels in the cover are also clogged with dirt.


Fortunately, the membrane was intact, so we wash everything very carefully. Especially all the channels and grids in the case.


By the way, the arrow indicates the direction of movement of the liquid - I will write more about this below.




We also thoroughly clean the rubber membrane and channels in its cover. We wash the solenoid.




A diode is provided on the coil of the solenoid, but for some reason it burned out.


I'm not very good at electronics, so I don't really understand why it's there - the valve works without it - but I replaced it anyway.


All parts of the valve are ready for assembly.


The assembly is simple - we put the membrane in the tube and close it with a lid. We put a washer, a coil with a metal clip, an upper washer on the solenoid and cover it with a plastic cover. We put a rubber ring and a spring on the solenoid rod. Carefully squeeze and evenly twist with four M3x30 screws with washers and nuts.


Blow the valve - it should be open. We supply power - the contacts are signed on the cover.


The valve clicks when closing and does not blow out - fully operational.

All parts are ready for installation.

So, Heating element/fan




I will repeat once again - all the details of this section are suitable only for the housing of the heater of the second type. And not interchangeable with similar parts for the case of the first type.

Part #1 - heating element (64 11 8 391 363). In my case it is Mahle Behr (AH95000S)
Part #2 - fan (64 11 1 370 930)
Part No. 3 - tightening tape (64 11 1 370 636) - 2 pcs. For fixing the fan cover.
Part No. 4 - tube (64 11 1 370 931)
Part No. 5 - tube (64 11 1 370 932)
Part No. 6 - fan bowl (64 11 1 372 507). Recirculation valve cover. According to this number, it comes together with two pairs of flaps. It is available to order, but I think the price of 300 euros is not adequate :) In my photo, there is only one pair of shutters. The other pair remained on the heater body. I didn't want to take them off again so as not to break them... especially considering their price ;)
Part #7 - fan bowl (64 11 1 370 934). Fan cover.
Part #8 - foot (64 11 1 370 935) Plate for fixing the fan.
Part #9 - square nut M5 (07 11 9 921 431) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 10 - bolt M5x20 (07 11 9 913 251) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 11 - spring washer (07 11 9 933 060) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring D=17.12MM (64 11 8 377 824) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 13 - rubber sleeve (64 11 1 370 809) Installed in the motor shield.
Part #14 - check valve (64 11 1 372 653) Rubber valve - I wrote about it last time when assembling the upper part of the heater body. It is installed above the electric motor of the fan.

It consists of a plastic frame and a rubber flap - in the center of the photo.

Part No. 15 - bracket (64 11 1 373 634) - 1 pc. For fixing radiator tubes.
Part No. 16 - water valve (64 11 1 386 707)
Part No. 17 - screw (64 11 1 370 949) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - repair kit for the temperature sensor (64 11 1 394 105) It is not entirely clear what it is.

We install a cover with flaps, press it with metal springs fixed on the body.
Installing the fan looks very simple - we put it in a niche and press it with a clamp (#8).


In fact, you need to get a little dizzy - so that the fan is in its place and does not cling to the heater body and cover with its blades. The buckle fastens with noticeable effort. We connect the power terminals and "masses" of the electric motor.


We snap the plastic collars (No. 3) into the body, install the cover (No. 7) and press it with plastic collars on the fasteners.


The fan is installed.

We proceed to the installation of the radiator. First, you need to screw the valve and aluminum tubes to it.


There are special grooves on the tubes, so they stand in only one position. The main thing is not to forget to put rubber rings (#12) on the joints. We insert square nuts into special grooves and evenly screw the tubes and the valve with bolts.


We glue the radiator with a sealant that was included with the radiator. We glue it diagonally on the back plane.
Although, I didn't have enough of it, so I glued the spleen on the front plane.




We insert the radiator into the niche of the heater housing and fasten it with two self-tapping screws.


We press the tubes with a bracket (No. 15) and fasten them with a self-tapping screw. We connect the valve. The rubber insert is still just hanging on the tubes. Also found my old engine shield sound insulation insert.


Finally, the left side duct for warm air can be installed. On one side it is placed on a latch, on the other side on one self-tapping screw.


Everything is established, but I still want to write about one nuance. Disputes often arise - where the valve is located - at the entrance to the radiator or at the exit from it. And in general, where is the entrance, and where is the exit.
So, according to ETK:
The upper tube is the exit from the radiator of the heater
The lower tube is the entrance to the radiator of the heater

As I already said, there is an arrow on the valves that indicates the direction of fluid movement. On my old heater of the first type, the valve is on the lower tube, and the arrow in the direction of the radiator is also indicated there.


That is, the valve is at the entrance to the radiator of the heater.


And here is the arrow on the valve of my new heater - from the radiator:


The valve is on the upper tube. That is, the valve is at the exit from the radiator of the heater.


So, both parties are right in disputes! :) It just depends on the type of heater - for the first type, the valve is at the inlet, and for the second type - at the outlet.

Next time I will write about the installation of the evaporator.