E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Yep, I have that exact annoyance, and my only fob is broken in pretty much the same way as well. Although the part number of the control box on mine returns E36 fitment if I recall correctly, but I suspect that it simply controls power to the main relay.

Your pre-flight checklist would be pretty involved with both of those units. Personally, I think it would be fun to put that exterior unit in the center console like a SAAB key just to confuse people.

No, not just powering the main relay. I found the factory instructions (EVA) for installing this system - there is an opportunity to break several power circuits of the wiring - the main relay, motronic, fuel pump and starter. So dismantling this thing may not be easy.


I will leave it as it should be, especially since there is already a hole in the door. By the way, the "masters" made it too big - I still don't know what will happen with it...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_37. ETK_41_Body (central lock)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

I don't know by what logic, but the electric drives of the central lock are for some reason related to the body.
Central locking


I also don't know by what logic I laid them out on the table for the photo - somehow it turned out chaotically, I mixed up almost all of them :) That's why I corrected them in Photoshop :)


Drives are different for each door:
№1 - Red body, white cover - front left (driver's)
№1 - Red body, red cover - front right (passenger)
№ 2 - White body, white cover - tank hatch.
№ 3 - Red body, white cover with a blue cap - trunk (has two stem positions)
№27 - White body, red cover - rear left and/or rear right (same)

Everything is clear about the pulls of the door drives in the photo - the shorter ones (No. 5 and No. 6) are in the front, the longer ones (No. 28) are in the back. The pull on trunk No. 7 is short with a straight hook. By the way, one detail is missing from the photo - No. 22. This is a plastic bushing in the trunk lock for this pull. I did not take it out so as not to break it. Here it is in the castle, and a thrust has already been inserted into it:

The trunk drive is installed


Details №14-16 - end switches of door locks. They are installed together with locks, so I will write about them in more detail there.


Details №17-20 - central lock control unit with a bracket.


The delay relay for the interior light and heating of the driver's lock is also attached to the same bracket. Therefore, I will also install it later along with the wiring.


By the way, I already wrote about the wiring of the central lock earlier - it goes in the "electric package".
Last time, I also wrote about the plastic covers in the niche of the front speakers. So, I checked - the left cover will definitely not stand in the presence of the central lock block. I ordered it in vain.

The tank hatch drive is attached to a special bracket №8.


A bracket is placed on the bracket to fix the wiring.


The bracket is attached with two self-tapping screws to the edge of the arch, and one bolt with a rubber gasket to the body. My bolt hole was already welded - probably it was the cause of corrosion in that place. I didn't want to drill a hole, so the bolt just serves as a stop. Although, even without it, there were no problems with the drive before.


Parts №12, №13, №23 - guides for the drive rod of the tank hatch. It is attached to the holes under the hatch.


Stem position "open"


Stem position "closed"


closed


The door drives are attached to the door with two self-tapping screws, so I don't see the point in writing about it separately - I will write next time together with the fastening of locks and handles.
By the way, on restyled cars, the central lock drives were not attached to the door, but to the door lock mechanism.

Parts №30-32 are not used.

[roguetoaster]

Yep, I have that exact annoyance, and my only fob is broken in pretty much the same way as well. Although the part number of the control box on mine returns E36 fitment if I recall correctly, but I suspect that it simply controls power to the main relay.

Your pre-flight checklist would be pretty involved with both of those units. Personally, I think it would be fun to put that exterior unit in the center console like a SAAB key just to confuse people.

[The_Glory]

Do you mean this kind of alarm key?


I have already heard several times that it is not very convenient to use. But I'm still going to install it, it's been in the garage for a long time.

And now I have a magnetic key for a separate lock in the door.




There will be a real launch ritual :)

[roguetoaster]

Good to know. In the US we did have a plethora of dealer installed systems that really ran the gamut in quality of components and quality of installation.

Yep, my security nub is in the HVAC stack in a '90 318i touring. Of late I have really been contemplating removing the whole thing, partly because I only have one "key" for the system, and partly because of the slight slowdown in starting the car since the nub is rather difficult to hit accurately as the parts don't exactly nest with each other.

[The_Glory]

Your alarm is factory with an LED in the rear? Any idea if that LED was a sort of optional accessory? Do you also have an LED inside, maybe near the HVAC stack?

Exactly. What's more, there are two diodes - one on the magnetic alarm lock on the driver's door, and the other behind the license plate. There is no diode in the cabin. This is the factory solution described in the original alarm installation manual (EBA).
Here she is in ETK:
http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog...ems/#1369412_9

Part №9 (65 75 1 369 412) is exactly that diode.


The same option was available on E23, E28 and E30. But on the E23 and E28, there was not just a diode at the back, but another duplicate magnetic lock with a diode.
This is a very old system. In newer alarm systems, the diode was in the cabin, as in modern systems. By the way, I also have such a diode. But such alarms were installed on the E30 of the last years of production, mainly on touring cars and convertibles of the years 91-94. At least in Europe.

PS
I looked in ETK - it turns out that this option was not available for the US market. Amazingly.

[roguetoaster]

Your alarm is factory with an LED in the rear? Any idea if that LED was a sort of optional accessory? Do you also have an LED inside, maybe near the HVAC stack?

[The_Glory]

Assembly_36. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 3) Base of license plate

Let's return to the ETK section again
Body equipment

Namely, to his subdivision, which concerns the rear of the car.
License plate base




The base of the license plate is an optional retrofit kit №1 on the diagram (51 13 9 056 620), which includes a plastic overlay for the license plate, a gasket for the trunk lock, and clips for attaching the overlay. It is no longer available for order, but all these parts can still be ordered separately. That's exactly what I did.

Part №2 - plastic cover (51 13 1 888 450)


If you notice, there is a hole in the bottom middle of my pad. I bought the cover new, and this hole was not there. But here the German engineers slightly neglected one point. Usually, many parts have several options, depending on the configuration of the machine. And in this case, the overlay exists only in one version. And this option does not take into account the installation of a standard alarm - the overlay covers the alarm LED. Therefore, it was necessary to drill a hole for it in the overlay.

Detail № 3 - double-sided tape for additional fixation of the lining at the edges. I don't see the point of ordering the original one, I glued the usual one from the store.


Part № 4 - gasket for the trunk lock (51 24 1 884 152). I recently mentioned it - it is placed instead of the usual gasket (51 24 1 884 147) and closes the gap between the plastic lining and the trunk lock. The difference can be seen in the photo.



Part № 5 - plastic insert (51 18 1 916 071) for a self-tapping screw. Here, German engineers have already taken everything into account - for the lining, not the usual ones (51 18 1 852 299), but these inserts are needed - they press the lining to the body. Although, the first time under the number 51 18 1 916 071, our official dealer slipped me the usual inserts 51 18 1 852 299. The photo above shows the difference - the usual black ones are smaller in size and do not press the pad. Although not critical, this time I ordered the correct inserts from Germany and they turned out great.

Parts №6 and №7- self-tapping screws and washers.

A license plate overlay is installed.


It looks beautiful. It will be especially good together with Startec. ;)
Unlike a regular gasket, the collar of this gasket closes the gap well.


By the way, he also installed the alarm LED, otherwise it won't turn on later - a malfunction of German engineers! :)

And to make it even more beautiful, I ordered decorative caps (№8) for self-tapping screws. This time, probably, for their sake, I will even drill holes in the license plates, and screw them in the "old school" way - through, and not just insert them into the frame ;)
The caps come in three colors:


64 11 1 375 497 - blue
51 18 1 823 474 - black
51 18 1 813 017 - white

I bought all colors, and 4 pieces for both license plates. Then I'll see which ones are more suitable in terms of color, and I'll put them there. Or I will change one at a time. :)

There are a few more details on the ETK scheme. They are present in the general photo.
Part №. 9 - rubber sealing ring (64 22 1 922 280) of side bars. These rings are often the cause of water leaking into the side niches of the trunk, so I bought them new.
Part № 10 - side ventilation grille (64 22 1 922 738) of the trunk with a rubber valve. Both grills are the same, fixed with latches in the body through a rubber ring. The rubber curtain valve lets air out (this is especially noticeable when closing the doors or trunk), and prevents air and water from entering the inside of the car.
Left side


The grilles have special fittings for connecting the hatch's rear drainage hoses. In the front part of the grille, the hose is fixed to the fitting with clamp №11 (54 12 1 922 721), and the rear fitting is closed with plug №13 (64 22 1 922 652).


Unlike the front, rear hoses of the hatch from the factory, through these grills, are brought out - under the rear bumper. It's good that it's not in the trunk, but in the front door sills! ))
Similarly, the right side.
There is only one nuance - I had an additional rubber seal on the right side on the front part of the grille.


Perhaps it is №12 on the diagram, but according to ETK this part is not used, and I did not find its number. And the second such seal was also not found. Although, apparently, there is a point in it - it additionally prevents the ingress of water from under the wheels to the grille.
From the inside, it is also similar - a clamp and a plug.


Parts №14 and №15 are not used. I don't know what it is, but visually according to the diagram, it looks like a bracket standing inside the front door. But it is not clear why he is here...

That's all for now.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_35. ETK_41_Body (Side frame)

So, we continue the ETK_41 section Body


Side frame


The side frame is a power frame consisting of sills, roof racks, and a rear wing. After body work, the side frame looks like this.


The following subsection shows individual details of the side frame.
Parts of the side frame


In the course of the body repair, I installed new external thresholds (#4), restored jack stands (#8-10), reinforced joints of the struts with the roof (#1,3, #5,6, #14-16), restored rear shelf (№13) and fuel pump mounts (№12,22), repair arches of the rear fenders are installed. All this has already been described before. Therefore, now I will dwell only on small details.



Part #11 is the left cover (51 71 1 916 123) and the right cover (51 71 1 916 124), which are installed on the bottom of the niche of the front speakers. I only had the right cover, and it got lost somewhere during body work, so I bought both new ones.




And it was only after sweating that I realized that the left cover is installed only if the car does not have a central lock. Because its control unit is installed exactly in place of this cover. That's probably why I didn't have it. I will finally check this when installing the central lock.
So, for now, I only put the right cover.


If there is a hatch, there are cutouts for the drainage hose on the cover.


We break the corner


And we try on the cover to the niche.


Do not be afraid) There is no rust in the niche. This is a thick layer of old oil anti-rust, on which sand has stuck after sandblasting the body. :) Deleting it is not realistic, and it makes no sense. Not aesthetically pleasing, but we have what we have.
I took the drainage hose from the threshold to the outside, under the wing. I don't understand why they didn't do that at the factory. Then the thresholds and floor on cars with a hatch would be much more complete ;)


The hose shifted a little, so I had to cut the corner of the cover more so that it would fit properly.



The left cover is still waiting for the installation of the central lock, then I will try it on. But I think she won't fit in there. Let's see...
I already wrote about plugs, I will repeat about some that are placed in the side frame.


Part E30 Technical Forums - plastic plug D=23MM (51 71 1 904 843). It is placed in the rack opposite the door hinge fastening nuts. There are two on each side of the front door.


On the rear doors, one on each side, opposite the upper door hinges.


The stoppers are fixed very tightly, so you need to put them after adjusting the door. By the way, this is what these holes are made for - through them you can turn the hinge nuts when the door is closed to adjust them.
Two more such plugs are placed in the absence of a central lock and rear power windows on the car - instead of rubber corrugations of the rear door wiring. Although, on the scheme in ETK they are marked as #18, but there the holes are larger and they do not fit there, and E30 Technical Forums are fine. Probably another error in ETK.

Part No. 18 - plastic plug D=20MM (51 71 1 801 066). This is again the same plug that I wrote about in the previous post, which is placed under the rear shelf and on the floor of the trunk. In this case, they are placed at the back on the inner threshold, two pieces on each side.
On the left, I have them brewed.

And on the right, they remained under the paint


Part E34/E28 Forums - plastic plug D=14MM (33 11 1 236 826) I also mentioned it in the previous entry - it is placed on the upper supports of the rear springs. In this case, the same plug is placed from below in the middle of the thresholds, one on each side.


Under number 19, there is another plug (51 71 1 839 321) D=16.5MM, but I did not find such holes for 6 such plugs. I didn't understand what it is and where it goes. Maybe another mistake...

Part General Discussion - plastic oval plug 33X42.5MM (51 71 1 911 996). This plug is placed on the front passenger side, in the absence of an "electric package" on the car - instead of the rubber corrugation of the front door wiring.

Everything on the side frame.
The front part and doors remained on the body. There is nothing to write about it yet, almost nothing has been compiled yet.
Next, I will probably write a little more about the equipment of the body - just today another parcel arrived with new bags, and then there will be wiring again...

[roguetoaster]

Thank you.
I hope that I am not writing all this in vain, and it will be useful to someone )
Although, I sometimes ask something here, but I have never received any answer so far... )

I'd suggest putting any questions in a separate post in this thread or elsewhere on the forum lest they simply get missed. It's also possible that the right people who could answer simply aren't reading the thread, even those of us who have been playing with E30s for decades don't have all of the answers.

Also remember that reading a thread like this on mobile is problematic, so it's easy to scroll past. In any case, don't get discouraged.

[The_Glory]

Thank you for continuing to meticulously document your build for posterity. It will probably be a useful resource for someone in the future.

Also neat to see optional parts that we all think about ordering, but generally never do.

Thank you.
I hope that I am not writing all this in vain, and it will be useful to someone )
Although, I sometimes ask something here, but I have never received any answer so far... )

[roguetoaster]

Thank you for continuing to meticulously document your build for posterity. It will probably be a useful resource for someone in the future.

Also neat to see optional parts that we all think about ordering, but generally never do.

[The_Glory]

I continue the previous entry.

The following subdivisions in ETK are about the roof of the body, but they are also related to the rear part to some extent:
Roof


There is nothing special to write about here - there is an ordinary roof (No. 1) and a roof with a hatch (No. 2). If desired, the roof lining and hatch tray (No. 3) can be replaced by factory welded joints. The sunroof on almost all cars has corrosion at the junction with the sunroof tray. Perhaps this is a structural defect in the joint, or an unsuitable sealant, which spreads corrosion. I have already described everything in detail about the roof repair earlier. Now my roof and hatch pan are in very good condition.


Apron


In fact, these are separate details of the roof from the previous section.
Detail No. 1 - roof cladding, with or without a hatch. By the way, the trim is the same for 2- and 4-door sedans.
Details No. 2-13 - individual details of the power frame of the roof.
Detail No. 14 - the lower part of the windshield frame. This is an important part of the body, as it contains the car's serial number - VIN. By the shape of the stamping for the number, you can distinguish the car before restyling and after restyling.
Details Other Forums and General Forums - rear shelf. It differs for cars before 85 and after 85.
Part Regional Forums - plastic plug (51 71 1 801 066) D=20MM.


In the rear part, on the side of the trunk, near its seal, three such plugs are placed.



I already mentioned them earlier - the same plugs are used in the thresholds and in the trunk.
I had someone put them in the back shelf earlier - they fit the size. Although they shouldn't be there, I left them just in case.


The following division on the back of the body:

Fender/rear trim




Part Home and Members Rides - rear wing and its repair insert for 2-door sedans.
Detail Forum - back panel. I already wrote about it before - a new Polish analogue made in Taiwan) The quality is good, it turned out well, but it has two incomprehensible holes under the trunk lock bracket. I recently mentioned them, it was necessary to remove them immediately. Now we need to look for plugs for them.
Details No. 3-7 - tank hatch assembly.

Part Visitor Messages consists of two parts - a metal sleeve and a rubber cuff (pictured below).
Part No. 8 is a plastic holder for a tank cap.
Detail No. 13 - metal plates for adjusting the position of the hatch relative to the body. They are placed under the loop (#4).


51 17 1 906 869 - thickness 0.5MM
51 17 1 906 877 - thickness 1.0MM
I ordered two of each just in case, but they did not fit - the hatch turned out well without them.
Detail No. 14 - a rubber cover for the filler neck of the tank. In almost all cars, it tears under the influence of gasoline and time. Therefore, I ordered a new one (51 71 1 884 358).

Detail No. 15 - rubber buffer of the tank hatch. For a long time I could not understand what it is and where it belongs. Then he paid attention to its size indicated in the ETK - 1.5 MM. I looked more closely, and still found it! :) These are two tiny rubber inserts in the loop of the hatch, against which it rests when opening. They were painted over - I washed them off the paint. Although, new ones are available, but at an inadequate price of 9 Euros per piece.


So, the hatch is in place.



Details No. 9-12 - mounting of the rear license plate. I will write more about it and decorative caps later in another section of ETK.


Part General Forums - rear wing for 4-door sedans.
Part No. 17 - plastic plug D=12MM in the rear wing (51 71 9 057 117)


It is placed in the lower corner of the rear door, in front of the wheel arch.


Part No. 18 - shield (51 71 1 917 437). It is no longer available for order, but I was wondering what it is. I found only one photo of him on the Internet.


The quantity in ETC is 2 pieces. I'm not sure, but it looks a lot like the plugs in the holes for the stock towbar brackets. From the factory, there are metal plugs that are removed when the towbar is installed.


So, apparently, when dismantling the towbar, the holes are closed with such plastic shields. I think so. If it's not, please correct me.
Part No. 19 - shield (51 71 1 920 010). Rubber insert on the rear towing eye. By the way, few people have it preserved.


Parts General Discussion and General Technical - rear fender repair inserts. They are available to order, but as practice shows, it is better to buy an analogue and change the entire edge of the arch, which I did.
Part Off Topic Lounge - AEGS ECU holder (41 35 1 937 998). An interesting detail that I did not understand. I could not find even a single photo of her on the Internet. Judging by the name and location, it appears to be the optional AEGS telephone bracket that was attached to the rear left wing. I ordered it purely out of curiosity. And that's what arrived.




I tried to attach it to the wing in different places in the trunk, but I did not understand how and where it is attached.



Apparently, it is necessary to drill holes for it, as indicated in the EVA for other regular phones. Although, I don't need it and I wasn't going to install it. It was just interesting ;)

The following division on the back of the body:

Rear seat bottoms


This is the power frame of the rear part of the body. I also wrote about its repair earlier. Now all its parts are also in good condition.
Therefore, I will dwell on only two details.


Detail No. 8 - the lower spacer of the body tunnel. Used only on convertibles and sedans for the US market (51 71 1 913 824). It's not her in the photo :) I already made homemade spacers a long time ago - front, back, and bottom. It performs its function in the same way as the original one, so I will leave it for now. And later I may buy the original one, it is still available for order.
Part Albums is a plastic plug D=14MM (33 11 1 236 826), which is placed in the upper supports of the rear springs. I forgot to remove them before painting, so here they are blue :)


The same plugs are used in thresholds, we will talk about them later.

The last division on the back of the body:

Trunk floor/mudguard Rear


Again, I already described the repair of the rear arches and the trunk - now all the parts there have a good appearance and condition.
Therefore, I will dwell on only two details.


Detail No. 11 - it seems to me that this is again an error in ETK. I saw such shields in the niche between the rear wing and the arch only on 2-door sedans. They separate the interior from the trunk. There is no point in them on 4-door sedans, since the arch is completely closed. And there is no physical access to install them. So I probably don't have them, and logically I shouldn't have them.
Part E34/E28 Forums - plastic plug (51 71 1 801 066) D=20MM. The same plug I wrote about at the beginning of this entry. The same six plugs are placed in the holes of the spars on the floor of the trunk.


All over the back of the body. Next will be about the sides and the front.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_34. ETK_41_Body (rear part)

There is a short break on the wiring, but for now I will write what was already done on the body a long time ago. Although not much has been done.

So, we start the big section ETK_41 Body

For some reason, it is often more convenient for me to start the assembly from the end of the ETC section :)

The most recent subdivision:
Mechanical connection elements


I have already written before about the restoration of all fasteners with yellow zinc, and the purchase of a new stainless fastener, so I will not write anything more here. All fasteners, clips, set nuts and self-tapping screws are re-galvanized or new.

The first installed element is a spoiler. I put it up a year ago, but I'm writing it now.
Rear spoiler details


The rear spoiler (No. 1 on the diagram) for the 325i was installed in the basic configuration, and for other models it was an additional option - S325. And for the 325i, there was an option on the contrary - no spoiler - S326.
It could also be painted in the color of the car - option S324. This is exactly the option I have.


The spoiler is attached with pins to six M6 plastic nuts (No. 3) with sealing gaskets (No. 4). The four nuts were white in color - I had not seen them before, so I decided to leave them. I cut the gaskets myself, because the original ones, although available, are not cheap, and you had to wait a long time for them.


Parts #6-11 is the spoiler for the optional M-Technic I package. It is installed in the same holes as the regular spoiler, but is additionally glued with double-sided tape.

We install the spoiler on the trunk lid.


You must have noticed that there is something wrong with the spoiler... ;) It has both ends cut off.


This was done by the previous owner in order to install a Breyton spoiler on top. Maybe someone will say - "kolkhoz" :) But I like how it looks, so I left it like that. By the way, the Zender spoiler is similarly made.


And the original M-Technic II spoiler was made according to the same "two-tier" principle. It consists of a spoiler and an upper spoiler. The spoiler is attached to the same hole. There is an additional attachment for the upper spoiler.



So, on top of the standard spoiler, we install a Breyton spoiler.


We use rubber gaskets and stainless fasteners.


By the way, I removed the home-made additional diode brake light from it. Now it looks as it should.



Breyton


Install and fasten with four bolts.



"two floors" ;)


Next subsection:
Trunk door/locking system




Everything is installed:


Some details on individual details.
The seal (#2) was found in excellent condition, as a new one is unreasonably expensive.
Rubber stops (No. 3) for adjusting the pressure of the trunk.


Parts No. 5 and No. 6 are not shown in the photo - trunk hinges, they were not removed from the body.
Parts No. 7 and No. 8 are not shown in the photo - torsion bars of the trunk, they were not removed from the body.
There are three types of torsion bars, depending on the load on them:
- stock (left 41 62 1 937 495, right 41 62 1 937 496)
- for standard spoiler or M-Technic I spoiler (left 41 62 1 937 497, right 41 62 1 937 498)
- for M-Technic II spoiler (left 41 62 2 238 835, right 41 62 2 238 836)
A few years ago, I installed the original new M-Technic torsion bars - the trunk lid opened normally, and does not fall on my head :)
Parts No. 9 and No. 10 are torsional fasteners. The ends were broken so I ordered new ones and the middle one was intact.


Torsions in the first position. Later, if they stop holding the trunk lid, they can be moved to the second position, for greater rigidity. You have to pull them very carefully - you can break your fingers.



Middle retainer under a metal bracket.


The side latches are located under these brackets on the rear shelf.


By the way, does anyone know what they are for, and what are the threaded holes in these brackets for? What is screwed there? I can't find this information anywhere.

Detail No. 12 - gasket under the lock. There are two types - stock (51 24 1 884 147) and under the plastic cover of the rear license plate (51 24 1 884 152). The photo shows their differences, but I will write more about it in the corresponding section.



Part No. 14 - trunk lock bracket. It has a special nut for adjusting the pressure.


Part Other Forums is a rubber insert under the bracket in the lock. Many have not preserved it - it is beige in the photo. He did not take it out a second time so that it would not break.


Lock General Forums and E30 Technical Forums is different for cars with and without a central lock. The lock is attached with three bolts in the niche of the rear panel.



Part No. 18 is a plastic plug with a diameter of D=11MM (51 14 1 823 900). Another part with an inadequate price - 10 euros per piece. I measured all the openings in the trunk and did not find any suitable ones. However, I found two holes in the back panel, I don't know why they were made there, because they were not there in the original panel - they will have to be closed with something.


But these plugs do not fit there either. I looked through a bunch of photos on the Internet, and I didn't see these plugs anywhere... That's why I didn't order them. And he did it right. Then, somehow by accident, I saw a photo of the rear glass frame for the M3 on the Internet - that's where they are placed, under the lower corners of the rear glass. This is another mistake in ETK - these plugs are needed only for M3.


Detail No. 19 - a metal plate 1 mm thick for adjusting the position of the trunk lid in height. It is placed under the hinges of the trunk.


I bought four pieces just in case, but they probably won't be useful. The cover became normal even without them, as it was before. It will only be necessary to repaint the cover fasteners after adjustment.
Parts #20, 25-27 are used only for M3. And also number 18, as it turned out.
Parts #21-24, 28 are used only for convertibles.

So, the back part is a little gathered, next time I will continue a little more.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_33. ETK_61_Bundles of wires (electric package)

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section Общее е/оборудование автомобиль

The next subdivision is the so-called "electric package".

Wire bundles (electric package)


This is a set of options combined into one interior wiring harness and door wiring. This set includes the following options:
- electric mirrors
- electric windows (two front or all four)
- central lock
- electric window comfort relay
- electric sunroof
- interior light switch-off timer
- heating of the driver's door lock

The wiring of the last four options was already shown in the previous section.
Depending on the configuration of the machine, there may be different combinations of these options. In my case - the "top" configuration, so they are all present.
The wiring of the electric passenger mirror on early cars was a separate harness (No. 1 and No. 2 on the diagram), and later it went together with the wiring of the central lock. By the way, in my car after its purchase, they were both, but the mirrors still did not work :)
So, let's move on to the main wiring of the "electric package" (No. 6 on the diagram).
I bought the wiring for four electric windows a long time ago, and the "package" included the remains of the central locking wiring. It was necessary to separate them. My garage is in the basement, it's dark there even during the day, and there's nothing to do without light. That's why I pulled the wiring to the house - my wife probably didn't like it very much, but she didn't kick it out - I'm grateful to her for that :)
Here is such a tangle of wires:


I untangled everything superfluous from it - the remains of the wiring of the central lock, with the main connector cut off and the rear part for the tank and trunk.


And the remaining wiring for four power windows is in fairly good condition. Replaced only two pins on the right front.


Even the tag with the number - 61 12 1 380 369 - corresponding to the year 85-86 has been preserved. What is needed.


But under this number, the same "electrical package" is available in the ETC - "For cars with an electric window lifter and a central lock." Therefore, I took my wiring from the garage, from which I also separated the wiring of the two front power windows.


And there remained a "package" of wiring for electric mirrors, central locking, a timer for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock.


On the left, the wiring of the timer for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock is woven.


On the right is the central lock and electric mirrors.


Rear door connectors, and connectors of the central lock on the hatch of the tank and the trunk.


I already said above that depending on the equipment of the car, there may be different combinations of these options. And to make it easier to combine them, the front door connectors C405 (left) and C404 (right) consist of two connectors - external and internal. Thanks to this, the wiring of the "electric package" can be very easily separated from the main body wiring - it is enough to simply separate the inner part from the outer part (how to do it correctly, I wrote in previous entries).
The outer part remains on the body wiring - there are only three wires for powering the entire "electric package":
red/black - constant power
green/black - power from the ignition switch
brown - mass

The inner part remains on the wiring of the entire "electrical package" and can be replaced completely, or supplemented with pins for various options from the "electrical package".


If I had known this before, I wouldn't have pulled all that wiring through the hole in the motor shield! )))

On the right, in the outer part, the mass and three wires of the right electric mirror remain.
The wiring for electric windows and/or central locking remains in the interior.


By the way, on the inner parts on both sides, as a rule, there are two more wires with 1-pin connectors (blue and white) - this is the audio wiring for the front tweeters in the doors.

The tag on my wiring was also preserved, but it was of little use - the number was completely rubbed off. Logically, it should be the same - 61 12 1 380 369


So, we put the wires one on top of the other.

We put it in one bundle.





We rewind it with the original fabric insulating tape, and we get a beautiful harness of a complete "electrical package".


With two tags :)


And now, useful (I hope so) information on connectors.

Front left side:


1.1 - C405 internal door connector
1.2 - C405 external door connector
2.1 - tweeter +
2.2 - twitter -
3 - standard alarm
4 - power supply of power windows C302 (Q)
5 - grounding of electric windows G200
6 - door stop for the electric window comfort relay
7 - power supply of the central lock C302 (D)
8 - grounding of the central lock G200
9 - block of the central lock
10 - timer relay for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock
11 - driver's door stop
12 - contact for the driver's door end stop

Front right side:


1.1 - C404 internal door connector
1.2 - C404 external door connector
2.1 - tweeter +
2.2 - twitter -
3 - door stop for the electric window comfort relay

Power window buttons:


1 - front left electric window regulator button
2 - button of the front right electric window lifter
3 - button of the rear left electric window lifter
4 - button of the rear right electric window lifter
5 - button to lock the rear power windows

Rear:


1 - C401 rear left door connector
2 - C402 rear right door connector
3 - central trunk lock
4 - the central lock of the tank hatch

In order for this entire "electrical package" to function, each door must also have appropriate wiring.


Driver's side (No. 3 on the diagram) - wiring comes in different configurations. I have, again, the "top" version with a full list of "electric package" options. In addition, it also contains wiring for the magnetic lock of the standard alarm system - 61 12 1 385 855.


1 - C405 door connector
2 - electric mirror
3 - button for adjusting electric mirrors
4.1 - tweeter +
4.2 - twitter -
5 - electric window regulator
6 - central lock
7 - door lock stop
8 - timer for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock
9.1 - magnetic lock of standard alarm system
9.2 - unit of standard alarm system

C405 pinout:


Passenger side (No. 4 on the diagram) - wiring comes in different configurations. Happens only with an electric mirror. It happens completely without wiring, with a mechanical mirror. And it happens, even, without a mirror at all. I have, again, the "top" version with a full list of "electric package" options - 61 12 1 385 856.


1 - C404 door connector
2 - electric mirror
3.1 - tweeter +
3.2 - twitter -
4 - electric window regulator
5 - central lock
6 - door lock stop

C404 pinout:


The rear left and right sides (No. 5 on the diagram) are the same - the wiring is in the same configuration for a complete "electrical package" - 61 12 1 375 794.
Left:


Rights:


1 - C401 left or C402 right door connector (similar)
2 - power window button
3 - electric window regulator
4 - central lock

Pinout C401 or C402:


The entire wiring of the "electric package" looks like this:


In addition to connecting to the door wiring, and powering through the external connector C405, the "electric package" is also connected to the connector of additional equipment C302:
- comfort relay of electric windows - on pins Q (white/black) and Z (red/yellow) - power supply for the operation of electric windows when the ignition is off and the doors are open;
- central lock - on pin D (red connector with green wire) - power supply for emergency opening of the central lock;


Also, the parts of the "electric package" are connected to each other through the wiring of the button of the emergency fuse of the power windows.


1 - power supply from the relay to the emergency fuse button
2 - power supply from the relay to the power sunroof
3 - power supply from the emergency fuse button to the power windows
4 - emergency fuse button

Perhaps this is all I know about the "electric package" E30.

I'm almost done rewiring the other optional extras now. Then I have to finish with C302 and C103 on the main wiring, which has been hanging in the garage on the wall for two years. Then mount and connect it all. Then maybe body assembly will go faster...