Ended up making jigs for engine mounts, trans mount, and drivers side exhaust manifold.

Blunttech e12 LSx / t56 swap
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www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC -
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www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment
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Glad you suggested the tranny be gone through Jake.
Is the motor going in this weekend??Comment
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If I can get a helper then yes it will be going back in today. If it doesn't go in today it will be in for sure tomorrow after I get home from work.www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment
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www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment
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Did you also make a template for the alternator relocation adapter bracket? If so, would you consider including it with your E28 LSx mounts and bracket kit on your site? Thanks!Yup sure did. Mounts are for sale on my website
Www.classicdaily.net1989 US E30 Cammed S52
Under Construction: 1983 Euro E28 Cammed LQ9/LS3 Heads/Jakeb E28 LSx Kit

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I plan to sell the alternator bracket but it needs to be tested to make sure everything is a 100% before I offer it for sale. I should have details on price in a couple weekswww.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment
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Engine is back in....
A couple close spots in the trans tunnel that had to be opened up.
I did run into one issue...I mocked up the motor mounts with the stock sway bars. We upgraded to ST bars and the ST bar has a slightly different path than the stock bar. So the bar is hitting the oil pan. The engine really couldn't go back any further anyway so we either have to go back to the stock bar or move the ST bar.
The two bars stacked...
So if I push the bar forward just a bit everything will clear the pan. I will make some mounts sorta like the e28 m5 off the frame rail.
I may have to get some different end links to keep everything lined up correctly.
Cut open the hole in the trans tunnel for the shifter. I will make an adapter to allow the screw on BMW knob to go back on and be centered in the surround.
Can anyone guess what this is? It's new...
The list is getting shorterwww.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment
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yupyup, this is his winter car after allwww.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment
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thanks, guys
So because of the sway bar situation I have been working on moving it so it clears the oil pan and exhaust. Here are some pictures and I have a couple questions if anyone has suggestions....
Ok so here is what I am thinking for the new mount. It is a 2" square that will get welded to the frame rail.
So becasue I have to push the bar forward about 3" from the stock location the bar arms and end link mounting holes are not lined up with the holes in the control arm.
So I am trying to figure out how to connect everything. I have a few different ideas/options. If anyone has another idea let me know or if one over the other would be better again let me know.
First idea is to use some heavy duty swing fittings on both the sway bar and the control arm with a rod in between.
The swivel would be like this...

and then setup like this...

The second idea is to put a solid rod end in the control arm, a spacer, and then a swivel heim joint with a bolt and spacer up to the control arm.
Solid rod end like this.

Setup like this...

Or finally extend the bar with some steel and use a straight connection down to the control arm.
like this...

I know if the arm length is longer that the stiffness of the bar goes down.
I found a calculator and the stock bar is around 216 in/lbs rate, new bar is 443 in/lbs
If I were to extend the arm length by about 3" the rate goes down to 310 in/lbs
Any suggestions / help would be greatLast edited by jakeb; 09-23-2012, 05:54 PM.www.classicdaily.net
1970 m42 swapped 2002
1985 LS1/T56 Swapped e28 (557e)
www.blunttech.com - For all your parts needs
Follow me on Instagram for constant build updates @classicdaily
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLCComment



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