euro early 318i - blew M10, swapped another one, M10B2035cc NA ITB build

[digger]

This B23 engine came from early (chrome) model. No late (plastic) models was equiped with this engine. It still have distributor in engine block, not on cam like late model engines. I can't see a problem with M20 swap into chassis originaly with M10. If you do the work right.

It works fine just not as common to see the lighter m10 used that's all. I meant plastic engine being crappy 24v m50/52 etc

[Mirek E.]

Ahh, here we call early model "chrome" and late "plastic". :) No M5x engine have place in this chassis. Except trunk. :D

Here are pics of crank.

[digger]

Any p/n on it? Be good to know. What car is it from?

[Mirek E.]

Still have M20B23 engine and parts for B28 stroker engine, but I decided to rebuild stock M10B18.

Engine was fully disassembled, block and head resurfaced, replaced valve guides, lapped valves, all new seals, new bearings etc. It's practically new engine with 2.5k km on it now.





























































Also sourced brand new center parts of front and rear bumper.
Bought Koni adjustable shocks and front coilover struts.

Rebuilded M10 have +/- same performance as my friends not rebuilded, but in very good condition, M20B20.

[TimeMachinE30]

"No M5x engine have place in this chassis. Except trunk." :-D

Like the rebuilding.

VR gaskets???

[Mirek E.]

Only 2. Under timing chain cover and distributor housing. Sad thing is that, when I ordered gaskets from BMW, I received VR... My friend had problem with VR head gasket, somethink was wrong with it and he had water in oil. After replace for Elring gasket, everythink was ok. So, if it was possible, I bought Elring.

[Mirek E.]

Next update.
Installed sound deadening in a trunk, floor in cabin... Also installed complete interior, new speakers and bought original sport seats, but they are actually in hands of upholsterer.
Now I can go to the long trip without using earplugs. :-)
95sh poly bushings and unsprung ceramic clutch are now almost unnoticeable.















Odesláno z mého GT-N7100 pomocí Tapatalk

[econti]

I cannot get over how nice your paint is

[Mirek E.]

So, it's been a while since I post something. Here is an update.

I canceled M20 build and sold all parts I had.
Block and head working in my friends car, he did complete restoration of his Italian 320i and his block cylinder walls was destroeyd (probably from lack of oil changes), so we made a deal and sold him all what he need for proper rebuild. My block was in perfect condition.
Crank with rods and pistons work in another friend 320i Touring. He spun the bearing and destroed 320i crank and one rod, so we made a stroker to B23. Running strock Motronic with some ebay chip and working very well. :)

Photo from April 2016 with friends Italian 320i.


In 2016 I did conversion to coilover system with Koni shocks and custom springs made by local suspension builder.


And also installed sway bar poly bushings.




Broke some small case dif with hard start with racing slicks...


Over the winter I repaired some rust on rear valance. From small bubble...


















And that was all for 2016.

In the spring of 2017, I started with some reinforcements.







Added more polyurethane...


Bought some slicks with Braid race wheels.


And went to the track.






After trackday I added some gauges and coolers...




Another poly bushings. This time for alternator...:)


Another trackday


Some meets


Bought another set of Braid wheels, with ET20. First ones was ET35 and I needed spacers.


This was end of summer 2017.
I had also one problem. I destroed 3 oil pumps...
After long investigations I found that chinese sandwitch plate under the oil filter, for oil cooler, was faulty and it takes a long time to build up pressure after startup. There was some backpressure in oil cooling system and it caused pump was not able to suck oil.:roll:
After that, I bough stock oil filter housing from S14, from that I never had any problem with oil pressure...


Also bought S14 oil pumps. Both in very good condition, one is little bit worse and the second one in like new, with 30k km on it. Both checked and reasembled with correct specs.


Mounted S14 oil baffle and installed crank scrapper from IE.



You can see that sandwitch plate which caused all the problems with oil pressure.
Yesterday I ordered also horizontal baffle from Lee from Massive.

And then... Bought B20 crank from Estonia, some rods from Latvia and now I also ordered custom pistons from IE.




So, plans are:
B20 crank with 80mm stroke - have
H-beam 135mm rods - have
11.5:1 CR, 90mm bore pistons - ordered
292 Dr. Schrick camshaft - not ordered
IE HD rockers, springs, chromoly retainers, rocker locks - have
Cleaned, enlargered and matched head ports
Superspring race-style headers - ordered (they are out-of-order, waiting for fab)
Custom ITB setup - fab
Standalone ECU

And this is current state.


Thanks. I'll be back soon.

[Mirek E.]

A little update.
Stock M10, which is currently in the car, is dead. :-)
After last two trackdays I noticed blue smoke from exhaust and of course oil consumption.
Also engine was louder, but it was normal after a lot of abuse and high revs. Valve lash was out of spec. But after adjusting to 0.20 mm or 0.008", it was still loud. I tried to adjust it little tight, ended on 0.15 or 0.006" and it was still loud. Sounds like valve tick. But, valves are okay... Also checked rockers, eccentrics, everything seems good.
So, I tested pressure on cylinders.
First, 2nd and 3rd was all above 10bar after 5 revolutions, 4th was on 4bar after so many revolutions.
Also spark plug was oily. So, 4th cyl is the winned.
Bore is probably too loose and that ticking and tapping sound is probably piston slap.

So, the season is over for this engine.
Engine took a lot of abuse, so I am not surprised it gave it up.
But when I finish the engine built with custom pistons, 2.0 crank etc., I'll rebuild it with oversize pistons, some performance cam etc. :-)

That's all for now.
I am still waiting for my pistons from IE, so nothing new.

[Alex18i]

A little update.
Stock M10, which is currently in the car, is dead. :-)
After last two trackdays I noticed blue smoke from exhaust and of course oil consumption.
Also engine was louder, but it was normal after a lot of abuse and high revs. Valve lash was out of spec. But after adjusting to 0.20 mm or 0.008", it was still loud. I tried to adjust it little tight, ended on 0.15 or 0.006" and it was still loud. Sounds like valve tick. But, valves are okay... Also checked rockers, eccentrics, everything seems good.
So, I tested pressure on cylinders.
First, 2nd and 3rd was all above 10bar after 5 revolutions, 4th was on 4bar after so many revolutions.
Also spark plug was oily. So, 4th cyl is the winned.
Bore is probably too loose and that ticking and tapping sound is probably piston slap.

So, the season is over for this engine.
Engine took a lot of abuse, so I am not surprised it gave it up.
But when I finish the engine built with custom pistons, 2.0 crank etc., I'll rebuild it with oversize pistons, some performance cam etc. :-)

That's all for now.
I am still waiting for my pistons from IE, so nothing new.

Yes!!!
Love to see that you kept the original m10 ..
I am now planning to rebuild my m10b18i too , already have all the parts and full gasket set .
I have a rod bearing shot , on cold startups it takes about 8sec to oil light to shut of , jacked the car and removed the pan and after cleaning the oil pickup i saw golden metal shavings .
The engine doesnt knock , but i now why that hapend i didnt have the spring on the rotor and it over reved to 7.4.k.
I dont hear any noises after that , so i think its only the bearing and nothing else :p

https://ibb.co/di55r9

[varg]

Looking forward to seeing the resurrection, I had almost forgotten about this little blue gem. Was the engine bored or the bores measured for diameter/out of round when you rebuilt it before?

[Mirek E.]

Yes!!!
Love to see that you kept the original m10 ..
I am now planning to rebuild my m10b18i too , already have all the parts and full gasket set .
I have a rod bearing shot , on cold startups it takes about 8sec to oil light to shut of , jacked the car and removed the pan and after cleaning the oil pickup i saw golden metal shavings .
The engine doesnt knock , but i now why that hapend i didnt have the spring on the rotor and it over reved to 7.4.k.
I dont hear any noises after that , so i think its only the bearing and nothing else :p

https://ibb.co/di55r9

Check the oil pump too. Sometimes they was built with too tight tolerances and they slowly destroying itself...
Also, I prefer Kolbenschmidt bearings. Glycos are not bad, but Kolbens are better. They have thicker layers of material and also when you compare them in a hand and by an eye, you see the difference. :)
M10 is nice little engine. It has a lot of potential. Raise compression ratio, add some performance cam, get rid of Jetronic and you have nice engine. :)

Looking forward to seeing the resurrection, I had almost forgotten about this little blue gem. Was the engine bored or the bores measured for diameter/out of round when you rebuilt it before?

Yes, all the parts was checked by local engine shop. Bores was in very good condition.
I am pretty sure that this engine was killed last year after that problems with oil pressure and oil pumps...
But, nevermind, I learned a lot about this engine after all, so now I am able to build new one with performance parts and make it better.

I hope that the new engine with 2.0 crank, custom pistons with 11.5 cr, 292 cam, ITBs and standalone ecu will be killer of stock M20B25s around. :)

[Mirek E.]

So, I found complete engine still in the car for sale.
When I arrived, owner started car, engine runs very smooth and quiet, so we made a deal.
Removed engine from chassis with 193k on the clock. It was one of the first late model still with early model engine. Car was built in 10/87 and already had plastic bumpers.
So I bough complete engine with harness and transmission.

This is when I removed intake and exhaust manifold, timing covers and timing parts and cleaned it.



Painted block



I need timing parts from my current engine, because I replaced them 2yrs ago and made 35k kms on them. So before assembly, I need disassemble current engine.





Assembled with IE crank scrapper, Massive horizontal baffle and S14 veritcal baffle welded in M10 oil pan.





In car.





Everythink done. :)



Car is now much better, engine have nice throttle response and it sound totally different. My engine had lower compression from factory, because it's version with catalytic converter, this "new" engine is catless version with higher comp ratio.
Complete swap costs me circa 300 bucks and it was very worth it. :)
I am happy how it runs now.

So, car is in perfect working condition. :)

[Alex18i]

Do you think the lower oil scrapper is good ? whats the bennefit ?