NA is best - 3.1L M20 w/ ITB's
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Sweet, lots of good information here, interesting to see the different opinions on management.. guess I have some researching to do before I make the switch. This car will not be 24V swapped with anything newer in the long forseeable future as it's always been about the old-style, so preparing for vanos control or DBW is not a concern. With the amount of money in this M20 I'm keeping it haha. <3
The other problem I face is a serious lack of decent tuners or dynos in the area, everything here is diesel trucks and Mitsubishi's. I'd have to take into consideration who would be doing a tune and what they are familiar with or go with something simple and try doing it myself.
In the meantime I'm pretty much out of time to source different injectors for the holidays. I'll toss in the 17's for now since I have them and look for something bigger in the coming months. Poor car will be going back into storage for the next few months anyway as it's still snowing... I may not even get a chance to really road test it until spring. :(
Car is inside and ready to go after Christmas, fluids are drained and hood is off. Final "before pics":

Engine bay hasn't been washed in a couple years.
Last edited by Raxe; 12-24-2016, 11:10 AM.Leave a comment:
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Any more info on this motor? Build thread of any kind?Hope all is well up there in the great white north. Good to see your progress.
Just as an FYI, shortly before I left IE I got dyno results from a friend down in Australia who has almost the exact same setup (same piston specs, 288 cam, 42mm RHD ITB's.). After tuning he was running 275whp with a healthy curve. Cannot remember what injectors he was running.Leave a comment:
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Can we just take a moment to enjoy that a 12 year member just blessed us with post #11. See you next year for #12 :rofl:
I think everyone at this point has made their point about their own chosen EFI systems, and its obvious neither is planning on moving from their positions. Lets be patient and see what OP delivers and make conclusions from that.
But please OP get biggers injectors first, I think thats something that EVERYONE agrees onLeave a comment:
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You're right, not the thread for this. But, you are wrong that DBW hasn't been done, also Motorsport VVT on MS has been around a few years - but no PNP. Browse the MS forums...Leave a comment:
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Andrew mentioned S54 in that post. How can the MS run S54? Nobody is running MS with a fully functional S54 no way. It can't even do Ethrottle. So switch to cable like all MS people think is the solution (because E-throtlte is stupid LOL - I actually install DBW on S52 engines on purpose), without proper air bleed the throttles will never be synced right, and the geometry is not linear mechanically. You MUST bleed air properly with S54 with the idle valve or it NEVER works right. You don't even open the throttles on S54s until you are about 25% pedal position deep. This bleed air from that massive air distribution pipe evens out the syncing issue, plus eliminates the differential pressure so the throttles don't stick closed.
And VANOS, requires two HIGH SIDE outputs PER camshaft with a special PID strategy because motorsport VANOS has no default position. I could write 10 more paragraphs about this.
Haltech can't even run Motorsport Dual VANOS yet if I am not mistaken, so how the hell would DIY MS stuff come even close if they don't even have E-throttle systems? As far as I know, the ONLY system that properly controls Motorsport Dual VANOS right now is the Emtron ECU system. Link, Motec, Life, and Cosworth can too, but they overregulate the solenoids when in the target deadband, and require hardware modifications most of the time to enable them to be driven by low side outputs.
If you are saying people "run" those engines by taking off all of the parts like E-throttle/VANOS, and all the other cool stuff that makes those engines what they are then you are just talking about an engine management system that opens injectors up and turns a coil on. OF COURSE it can "run" it. Maybe switch to a distributor too. That be "dope".
MS (even MS3pro) can't be compared to the flexibility of the Link and Haltech systems. Just download the software and poke through it. Look at all the tables, offsets, compensations, map switching, table blending, and more.
There are a lot of management systems that say they "do" something, but actually can't. There is one brand advertising traction control and all they do is look at the RPM ROC to determine wheel slip. LOL.Leave a comment:
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I'm not having this discussion for the 100th time.
If you want to protect your $7k+ hardware investment with a sub $1k ecu then have at it. If you want to make the most power out of your motor with the greatest reliability then lets talk. :)
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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The car in the links above did it with carbs on one and EMU on the other. The m20 is a simple engine. Gen2 PNP is more than adequate. I use whodwho's MS in a lot of builds, even daily drivers without issue. PNP's are $7-800, even adding WB, still no where near $1200Leave a comment:
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