NA is best - 3.1L M20 w/ ITB's
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No way is it cheaper to install and tune with link or haltech there is not a pnp solution for the m20 with themLeave a comment:
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Maybe it CAN physically start and run those engines. But in no way can it take as full advantage of them as the = priced Link and Haltech units. Charging for time (including install and tuning), and paying for software and programmable features, and buying an external wideband controller, at the end of the day its a loss.Leave a comment:
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I'd be very curious to see a N/A M20 making 275 hp at the wheels. Any chance we can see a dyno sheet?
I'm daydreaming about building up my spare IX block that's now glaring at me in the garage...Leave a comment:
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Hope all is well up there in the great white north. Good to see your progress.
Just as an FYI, shortly before I left IE I got dyno results from a friend down in Australia who has almost the exact same setup (same piston specs, 288 cam, 42mm RHD ITB's.). After tuning he was running 275whp with a healthy curve. Cannot remember what injectors he was running.
Do you know what kind of head/valve work? Impressive numbers.Leave a comment:
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Hope all is well up there in the great white north. Good to see your progress.
Just as an FYI, shortly before I left IE I got dyno results from a friend down in Australia who has almost the exact same setup (same piston specs, 288 cam, 42mm RHD ITB's.). After tuning he was running 275whp with a healthy curve. Cannot remember what injectors he was running.Leave a comment:
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17lb injectors will be severely inadequate. With a 2.8 m20 9.4:1 compression, ported head and only a 272 cam, we ran out of injector just over 200whp and only 5k RPM with 19's. We went with 24lb and would have to open the logs, but pretty sure we were a tad under 80% at 217whp/202tq.I have been reading your awesome thread like the Bible haha, it's actually what convinced me to go ahead with RHD. I haven't had any issues with the stock injectors on the bigger engine so far and I've got an AFR meter, but I guess if 17 doesn't cut it I'll just go bigger! I'm also planning on limiting to ~6200rpm at this point which should hopefully keep things in check.Leave a comment:
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For the $, I would look at the Link Fury ecu. Has built in wideband O2 controller (Haltech you have to buy separately) better closed loop control, e-throttle support, etc. Although, the Haltech unit does come in a pretty swanky case!
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+1 on the haltech, been using there elite series for my m20 and it's world's apart from megasquirt. The software is excellent and the ability to expand is endless. Plus using there CAN wide band is a nice piece of mind compared to a 0-5v.
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I've got an Elite 750 in my R32 Skyline and its a spectacular bit of kit. Perfect for a M20.
If a standalone ECU doesn't use a MAP sensor its not worth anything IMOGonna be very curious to see how this works out.
Just a question because this is something I'd like to do in the future:
How does the ECU get an accurate airflow/pressure reading? It looks like this kit does away with the AFM sensor so it probably relies on some kind of Alpha N setup. Couldn't this potentially mess with things if you drive to a lower altitude?Leave a comment:
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Gonna be very curious to see how this works out.
Just a question because this is something I'd like to do in the future:
How does the ECU get an accurate airflow/pressure reading? It looks like this kit does away with the AFM sensor so it probably relies on some kind of Alpha N setup. Couldn't this potentially mess with things if you drive to a lower altitude?Leave a comment:
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That Haltech Elite 750 looks great! Very comparable to the Link ECU I mentioned before.
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