M60b40 powered Volvo 240

[sampayne]

This is awesome. It's interesting seeing the process of actually building a custom coilover.

[FireFight]

I also got my non EWS m60 DME. I scored on it

They had it listed as a Vw Passat ecu, so since it wasn't listed as the other m60 DMEs they where only asking 18.
I messaged them asking if the description was wrong or the picture was wrong, they told me that both where correct and I was mistaken.
Last I checked, VW doesn't put roundles on there DMEs.


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[FireFight]

This weekend I got in a quick hour of getting this thing daily drivable again

The rear wheel arch was rubbing on the tires because the wider wheels, adapters, and it's lowered now.

And with my fender roller we have made a good amount of clearance.

Also I have been missing the passenger rear mud flap. Got a new one for around $10


Here is the bracket.
So I straightened it out and tossed some wide fender washers on the back since the bracket was slightly torn



This week I should be driving it again so I'll be able to check out how the suspension feels


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[AWDBOB]

I am dying to see this thing on some style 37s.

[paynemw]

I love this build!

[FireFight]

Package from the motherland





Really nice quality, super happy with them so far.

Now to find an engine


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[jpod999]

I can't wait to see this materialize.

[FireFight]

Long time no update

So I was driving the car daily after I tossed in the new clutch disc, but the clutch pedal was making a popping sound.
Well one day on the way home the pedal got stuck in the down position, I had to kick the pedal about 5 times for it to release.
At this point I realized something was clearly wrong. By the time I got it home the pedal the clutch was not engaging at all.
I parked the car and started riding my motorcycle everywhere.

Well I finally got bored enough to push the car in the garage and pull the engine out to replace what I assumed was just a stuck throw out bearing.



Well I got the engine out which was way easier than just pulling the trans, but a lot broke
All the exhaust studs snapped except 1
And The mounts ripped

Pushing on I pulled the trans

Throw out bearing was totally stuck, I had to get a puller to get it off the shaft

So that was trash
And this

Pilot bearing was destroyed

But taking it as just a small set back I pushed on
I was going to try to get the snapped studs out
But they all pretty much snapped flush with the head

I got my bolt extractor out and then

Fucking snapped in the head.

At this point I think it's a sign that it's time to start getting serious about the swap.

Next start striping the bay


More soon





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[2mAn]

The car wants what it wants. Give it the torks

[FireFight]

Not a whole lot done tonight after I put the kid to bed

I removed the exhaust, coolant tank, washer tank, battery tray and some of the engine harness.
Volvo decided to put the bulk of the engine harness in the dash harness so I can't fully remove it at this time

But I got to start a part that I have been wanting to try

I disassembled the Volvo shifter

Then I did the same to the BMW one

Fits damn near perfectly
The goal of this was to make it still look like the Volvo from inside the car, I want it to look like this was a "factory engine" as much as possible
This way I'll keep the Volvo shift knob and the reverse pull(wont be used) but it will work with the early e30 shift plate and DSSR

Tomorrow I'll get some epoxy to make it permanent


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[Walter]

This is my favorite thread. Keep the updates coming!

[lukeADE335i]

Nice work!

Down here, Holden 5.0L V8s (an iron pushrod engine somewhat similar to an updated 60s 307 chev) used to be a common swap on Volvo 240s.

Should be mighty with the M60 in it.

[FireFight]

Nice work!

Down here, Holden 5.0L V8s (an iron pushrod engine somewhat similar to an updated 60s 307 chev) used to be a common swap on Volvo 240s.

Should be mighty with the M60 in it.

Thanks man, I have heard good things about the golden engines, I hear the have a close version of an LS engine

This is my favorite thread. Keep the updates coming!

Thanks man! Keeps me motivated that someone else is diggin this as much as my self haha

So I spent some time at the yard today.
In the pics I have seen of this swap(all 4 of them) everyone is running the thinner booster off a 16v car(from what I'm told)
I haven't been able to locate one so I decided to take it a different route

Here is an e30 booster next to the 240 one. The 240 bolt pattern is super wide, and the part that attaches to the pedal is also wider.
My plan is to drill out the booster bolt pattern on the fire wall and modify the 240 pedal bracket to work on the e30 booster.


Here is the booster placed in the spot of a junkyard 240.
240 brake lines are on the opposite side, so I'll have to do some hard tight 180s and massage the strut housing a bit but I think it will work.




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[FireFight]

M60b40 powered Volvo 240

To build the shifter and mate the Volvo upper and the BMW lower, I'm gonna combine them like the BMW, but Idk where to get liquid rubber so I got the closest thing

I slowly filled the upper with the lower in place

I let that sit for a week


All cured, it dried with the hardness between rubber and poly so it should be nice

I got a early e30 shift plate I will modify the same way I did on my 24v swap.
I got new upper and lower shift cup bushing


And of course I misplaced the reverse lock out pull thing, so I'm still looking for that but overall I would say success.

I also went to the yard and found a 240 that had a hydraulic clutch that someone already got but they left the gasket.
I brought that home and found that the Land Rover clutch master should bolt up!
One less thing to modify


Next building the adapter harness, I have made a good amount of these now, m20 for e21, m50 for e30 and m60 for e30, so it wasn't to hard. The main issues I'm facing is volvos have there fuel pump relay as part of the body harness(I'll talk about this later), they have no check engine light, and the cluster isn't electronic so VSS doesn't have spot to get info from.
For the CEL and fuel pump I added 2 pins to the Volvo plug. In the early 240s the wiring they used was bad, the plastic is prone to cracking

so I went to the yard and pulled as many as I could

I added the fuel pump to the spot where pin 6 would go on the Volvo plug(which is the CEL on late models, looking back I would have put the CEL plug in this spot haha) and the CEL in pin 4(brake light for auto trans)
My plan is to make the o2 sensor light be the check engine
For VSS I have heard people taping in to the RPM wire, this won't allow the car VSS to work properly, but it should keep it out of fault

Next I took all the wires out of the x20 plug that I would not be using


I lengthen all the wires to a good estimate of how long the harness would have to be and soldered, heat shrunk, and friction taped



Next the new booster off the e30 was a sore sight



I sanded it down



Next I wiped it down and masked it all off

Next primer

The primer blew chunks but I tried pushing through,
Next I wanted a slight texture so I used "hammered" gray paint to make it look nice. The finish was nice, but I got greedy and decided to lay some clear over. But the thinner in the clear had a reaction with the base coat and it wrinkled

This looked like dog shit, so I let it fully cure and went about sanding the whole thing back down. But the reaction caused the paint to just clog up and not dust off. I went though 15 sheets of sand paper but finally got the whole thing to bare metal.
I wiped it again and laid down primer again

This time the primer finish was a lot nicer.

[FireFight]

M60b40 powered Volvo 240



All finished

Next I had to drill out the new bolt pattern on the firewall

I made a template from the new booster and marked and drilled the holes

Next the test fit

Fits perfectly, but a problem I knew I would have to deal with is the strut tower getting in the way of the front brake line


I heated the tower and took a ballpine hammer to it

Next I painted it, unfortunately the white I had was to white haha so I'll have to figure out what color I'll paint the whole bay

And the holes that where drilled go in a spot where it doesn't get in the way of anything

Horrible picture, I know, but basically there is a .75 inch gap between the holes and where the pedal housing would have been in the way on all 4. So that worked out perfectly

Now the part that the pedal bolts on to the booster on the e30 is smaller and won't work, and the Volvo is non adjustable
So I cut that part off the Volvo booster

Punched out the center

Drilled it out to fit over the e30 booster rod


On the Volvo from where the booster would mount to the firewall to the end of this rod was 5", so I'll be cutting the e30 rod a bit and welding on a second jam but I picked up from a hardware store
More on that later

The shift plate off the e30 wasn't the correct shape or length to be a direct bolt on, so I made a template



I'd have to put in holes to clear 4 square nuts that are part of the body

Cut down to size

Cleaned off the old foam pad glue and smoothed out the cuts

Perfect fit.
I sanded it the rest of the way and put a coat of primer on.
Next I needed to figure out where I was going to weld the mount bolts,


Two on top one on bottom, I marked these spots on the plate and drilled it out.
I bought three bolts and nuts that will need to be welded, more on that later

Next the clutch pedal, being the car was set up for a clutch cable it's a pull style, but for hydraulic it needed to be a push, volvos have factory holes for a hydraulic master that the v6 cars run,so I removed that cover plate. The v6 master cheapest I could find was still over $100 for Chinese shit, I took a risk and found a landrover one that I hoped would be the same bolt pattern,
I lucked out and it was
The holes line up, but there are some draw backs, it's British threads so I'll need to make a custom hard line with British on one side and euro on the other, I have done this 100000 times so that's no big deal.
And the part that bolts to the pedal would need to be custom. Early I showed a hiem joint that I was planning on using, well I lost it at some point so I'll have to go get another, but either way I'll need to cut that masters rod because how long it is.

Since the pedal is now a push the arm that attaches to the master would need to be under the hinge point, and Volvo already had holes in the pedal cluster to mount the clutch pedal higher so that once welded lower they would line up, but the pedal will need to be lengthened 50mm
So to prepare for that I got to cutting

Before

After.

So I will weld in a section that is 2" which will put it at the correct length as the others then once that is in I'll figure out where to weld that tab that will have a clevis pin welded on for the hiem joint to go on to.


So that's where I'm at for this day, I need to do a bunch of welding and my tank is empty and the welding supply shop is closed. So more later this week



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